The Tint

Disruption...Or simply Nature's process for change?

You often hear that old cliched expression, "If there is one thing that's constant, it's change..."

And it sort of applies to aquarium keeping...if we look to Nature.

When we look at the way natural aquatic habitats arise, evolve, and function, I can't help but thing about what factors force such processes.

A recent podcast with our friend, Tai Strietman, really brought this idea home. During our extensive discussion, Tai mentioned some of the observations he's made of natural habitats in The Pantanal region of Brazil, and the changes which impact the fishes which reside in them.

Tai explained that fishes are remarkably resilient, not only enduring- but exploiting- the seasonal changes and challenges their habitats face throughout the year. Everything from changing water depths, rising and dropping oxygen levels, to full-scale physical re-working of the underwater topography, to changing food resources.

It really got me thinking about parallels, similarities, and the very processes which create environmental changes which our fishes must adapt to in our aquaria. I think about two things: How strong and adaptable fishes are, and how intimately they are tied to their environment. Familiar themes that we've touched on a lot here, right?

In Nature, fishes will frequently migrate into and out of areas as the seasons change. Often, this is because they are following food sources, shelter, and stability. Instinctive urges to feed, reproduce, and flee predation compel fishes to move from environment to environment. 

I believe that our fishes can benefit from us offering some "disruption" or changes to the environment from time to time. I believe that many of them are genetically or instinctively "programmed" to endure- and even to benefit from -such environmental changes as part of their life cycles.

I realize that this is somewhat contrarian to the long-accepted aquarium standard of stability in every way, and it's something I've had to re-visit myself over the years...I mean, I've traditionally been the type of aquarist who adopts a sort of "hands-off" stance when it comes to "messing" with my tanks once they're up and running. However, when we consider the way Nature functions when She impacts aquatic ecosystems, there is something there, I think. In the wild, many fishes are subjected to such environmental fluctuations and disruptions to their physical environment on an almost semi-regular basis.  

They seem to do just fine.

In fact, we've embraced some aspects of this type of environmental manipulation with fish breeding technique for many years: Lowering water temperatures to mimic rainstorms for Corydoras, or exhaling into a test tube of water containing annual killifish eggs to add CO2 to the water to stimulate hatching, etc. 

 

I would imagine that there are a lot of benefits to be realized by "deconstructing" and replicating the processes of disruption and change which Nature imparts to our fishes environments.  We could gain a lot from simply studying and considering how fishes react to the environmental disruptions and changes that they face.

Think about the way fishes adapt their behaviors and strategies to feed in the wild...It might give us some interesting insights that we can apply to aquarium work.

As we all know, in Nature, fishes spend a significant amount of time and energy searching for food.

On the Amazonian floodplains, for example, the flood cycle of the rivers into the igapo are the dominant seasonal factor, and fish communities are found to fluctuate greatly over the year. During inundation, fish migrate into floodplain forests to feed on insects, fruits and seeds, among other things.

Studies of blackwater communities showed that, during these cycles, a greater diversity of fishes exists there. Many species were found to be specialized feeders. Fish, detritus and insects were the most important food resources supporting the fish community in both high and low water seasons, but the proportions of fruits, invertebrates and fish were reduced during the low water season.

Are there some "takeaways" here for us fish geeks?

Sure, I think so! 

Hmm, what this means to us is that fish sort of "follow the food", right? And that the "seasonal availability" of some food sources actually dictates overall fish behavior, and for that matter, which species are found in the habitats at various times of the year, and of course, what is consumed.

How would we replicate this seasonal change of food abundance and dietary composition in our aquariums? 

Perhaps we could simply alter the stuff we feed our fishes at different times of the year! In other words, feed a correspondingly more frequent, more intensive diet of say, worms, fruit flies, or Daphnia in a period of time that corresponds with the wet season?

And then, perhaps reducing frequency, quantity, and variety of foods at other times- perhaps even doing a several week-long "hiatus" or two, to encourage them to forage on the biocover and natural foods you have encouraged to accumulate within the aquarium?

That's one change that we could relatively easily recreate in the aquarium. I've done this a number of times over the years with tremendous success. It all revolves around how we set up our systems for this sort of operation.

Other changes or, if you will- disruptions, which we could replicate in our closed systems would be physically re-arranging or evolving the type and compositions of the materials in our tanks, or adding additional botanical materials (leaves and seed pods and the like) on top of existing materials.

This could realistically replicate the physical changes which happen to natural habitats when water levels ebb and flow and new materials are imported as others are pushed out.

Fishes will take advantage of all of these sorts of changes.

They'll "claim" new territories, while simultaneously exploiting new food resources as they become available. As Tai pointed out, when changes happen to the physical environments in which fishes reside, established social hierarchies will be disrupted and changed up. Not only will existing inter-specific social structures change- the very composition of the fish population itself will often change as newer, specialized feeders move in to take advantage of conditions favorable to their existence.

You can and should keep botanicals and leaves in the aquarium until they completely decompose. Why? What advantage is there to doing this in our aquariums?

In the aquarium, much like in the natural habitat, the layer of decomposing leaves and botanical matter, colonized by so many organisms, ranging from bacteria to macro invertebrates and insects, is a prime spot for fishes! The most common fishes associated with leaf litter in the wild are species of characins, catfishes and electric knife fishes, followed by our buddies the Cichlids (particularly Apistogramma, Crenicichla, and Mesonauta species)!

Some species of RIvulus killies are also commonly associated with leaf litter zones, even though they are primarily top-dwelling fishes.  Leaf litter beds are so important for fishes, as they become a refuge for fish providing shelter and food from associated invertebrates.

How often do you need to replace your leaves? Well, another great question for  which there is no "rule" involved. The reality is that you can simply add new leaves on a regular basis, so you'll always be making up for the ones that have decomposed. Some hobbyists like to remove the decomposed leaves, preferring a more "pristine" look.

It boils down to aesthetic preferences, really. There is nothing wrong with leaving them in until they completely break down. And you can add to them...build upon the layers that are already there. Just like what happens in Nature.

Of course, besides leaves and seed pods, there is that other "stuff" that we all love..Branches, stems...twigs.

Those of us who obsessively study images of the wild tropical habitats we love so much can't help but note that many of the bodies of water which we model our aquariums after are replete with tree branches and stems. Since many of these habitats are ephemeral in nature, they are only filled up with water part of the year.

The remainder of the time, they're essentially dry forest floors.

And what accumulates on dry forest floors?

Branches, stems, and other materials from trees and shrubs!

When the waters return, these formerly terrestrial materials become an integral part of the (now) aquatic environment. This is a really, really important thing to think of when we aquascape or contemplate how we will use botanical materials like the aforementioned stems and branches. They impact both function and aesthetics of an aquarium...Yes, what we call "functional aesthetics" rears its head again!

There is no real rhyme or reason as to how these materials orient themselves the way they do. I mean, branches fall off the trees, a process initiated by either rain or wind, and just land "wherever." Which means that we as hobbyists would be perfectly okay just sort of tossing materials in and walking away! Now, I know this is actually aquascaping heresy- Not one serious 'scaper would ever do that...right?

I'm not so sure why they wouldn't. 

I mean, what's wrong with sort of randomly scattering stems, twigs, and branches in your aquascape? It's a near-perfect replication of what happens in Nature. Now, I realize that a glass or acrylic box of water is NOT Nature, and there are things like "scale" and "ratio" and all of that "gobbldeygook" that hardcore 'scaping snobs will hit you over the head with...

But Nature doesn't give a fuck about some competition aquascaper's "rules"- and Nature is pretty damn inspiring, right? There is a beauty in the brutal reality of randomness. I mean, sure, the position of stones in an "Iwagumi" is beautiful...but it's hardly what I'd describe as "natural."

Nature is...well...

Which begs the question: Who really cares? Do what you like! However, I think that we could do a lot worse than literally dropping materials into our tanks (taking into account their size of course). 

Look to Nature. And be bold.

And other processes and actions we can take in our aquariums replicate the rather disruptive processes which occur in Nature- bringing many of the same challenges- and benefits-to the organisms which reside in them.

For example- when we make changes to our aquariums.

in the world of the botanical-style aquarium, the idea of leaving the substrate and leaf litter/botanical "bed" intact as you "remodel" the aquarium isn't exactly a crazy one. And conceptually, it's sort of replicates what occurs in Nature, doesn't it?

Yeah, think about this for just a second.

As we almost constantly discuss, habitats like flooded forests, meadows, vernal pools, igarape, and swollen streams tend to encompass terrestrial habitats, or go through phases where they are terrestrial habitats for a good part of the year.

In these wild habitats, the leaves, branches, soils, and other botanical materials remain in place, or are added to by dynamic, seasonal processes. For the most part, the soil, branches, and a fair amount of the more "durable" seed pods and such remain present during both phases.

The formerly terrestrial physical environment is now transformed into an earthy, twisted, incredibly rich aquatic habitat, which fishes have evolved over eons to live in and utilize for food, protection, and complex, protected spawning areas. 

All of the botanical material-shrubs, grasses, fallen leaves, branches, seed pods, and such, is suddenly submerged; often, currents re-distribute the leaves and seed pods and branches into little pockets and "stands", affecting the (now underwater) "topography" of the landscape.

Leaves begin to accumulate. Detritus settles.

Soils dissolve their chemical constituents- tannins, and humic acids- into the water, enriching it. Fungi and micororganisms begin to feed on and break down the materials. Biofilms form, crustaceans multiply rapidly.  New populations of fishes are able to find new food sources, new hiding places, and new areas to spawn.

Life flourishes.

Sooo...

When you remove much of the hardscape, plants, etc. from the aquarium as you "evolve" it to something else, yet leave the substrate, some of the hardscape, leaves, etc. intact, you're essentially mimicking this process in a most realistic way.

Sure, a "makeover" of an aquarium can be a seriously disruptive event. On the other hand, if you take the mindset that this is a "transformation" of sorts, and act accordingly, it becomes more of an evolutionary process. It need not be viewed as some sort of huge, catastrophic process in the lifetime of the aquarium.

This is something I've done for many years- like a lot of you have, and it not only makes your life a bit easier- it can create pretty good outcomes for the fishes we keep.

No one said the hobby is easy, but it’s not difficult, either- as long as you have a basic understanding of the environmental processes and conditions within your aquarium. And the idea of leaving essential biological components of your aquarium more-or-less "intact" for an indefinite period of time is really compelling.

Of course, an aquarium which utilizes botanicals as a good part of its hardscape follows a set of phases, too. And I've found that once a botanical-style aquarium (blackwater or brackish) hits that sort of "stable mode", it's just that- stable. You won't see wildly fluctuating pH leaves, nitrates, phosphates, etc. To a certain degree, the aquarium has achieved some sort of "biological equilibrium."

Now, one thing that's unique about the botanical-style approach is that we tend to accept the idea of decomposing materials accumulating in our systems. We understand that they act, to a certain extent, as "fuel" for the micro and macrofauna which reside in the aquarium. The idea of leaving this material in place over the long-term is a crucial component of this approach, IMHO.

As we've discussed repeatedly, just like in Nature, they'll also form the basis of a  complex "food chain", which includes bacterial biofilms, fungi, and minute crustaceans. Each one of these life forms supporting, to some extent, those above...including our fishes.

I have long believed that if you decide to let the botanicals remain in your aquarium to break down and decompose completely, you shouldn't change course by suddenly removing the material all at once...Particularly if you're going to a new version of an existing aquarium.

Why? 

Well, I think my theory is steeped in the mindset that you've created a little ecosystem, and if you start removing a significant source of someone's food (or for that matter, their home!), there is bound to be a net loss of biota...and this could lead to a disruption of the very biological processes that we aim to foster.

Okay, it's a theory...But I think I might be on to something, maybe? So, like here is my "theory" in more detail:

Simply look at the botanical-style aquarium (like any aquarium, of course) as a little "microcosm", with processes and life forms dependent upon each other for food, shelter, and other aspects of their existence. And, I really believe that the environment of this type of aquarium, because it relies on botanical materials (leaves, seed pods, etc.), is more signficantly influenced by the amount and composition of said material to "operate" successfully over time.

Just like in natural aquatic ecosystems...

The processes of change and disruption which occur in natural aquatic habitats- and in our aquariums- are important on many levels. They encourage ecological diversity, create new niches, and revitalize the biome. Changes can be viewed as frightening, damaging events...Or, we can consider them necessary processes which contribute to the very survival of aquatic ecosystems.

Think about that the next time you hesitate to remove or replace that piece of driftwood, or toss some fresh leaves on top of your existing bed of botanicals, or...

Stay thoughtful. Stay bold. Stay creative. Stay studious...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

 

Killifish and their terrestrial connections- Questioning convention, and lessons from Nature

Annual killifishes are beyond fascinating for us. Not only is their life cycle amazing, the fact that they are so intimately tied into their environment more than almost any fishes we've worked with in the hobby is an amazing 'unlock" for so many things we want to do as hobbyists.

These fishes are commonly found in the African Savannah, an ecosystem which essentially is a large tropical grassland, which receives its highest amount of seasonal rainfall during the summer. Savannah vegetation consists primarily of grasses and small, widely dispersed trees that don't create a closed canopy like you'd find in the rain forests, which allows large amounts of sunlight to reach the ground. 

Literally, the soils and sediments of these habitats where annual fishes are found is of such importance, that it impacts every aspect of their existence- and it all starts with how it impacts the development of their embryos.These fishes inhabit (often temporary) pools, which are of very specific composition. Because of the way rain falls in these habitats, many of these habitats fill and empty with the weather seasonally. 

And the very composition of the the substrate of these pools has profound influence on the life cycle of these killifishes.

Drop-offs, overhangs, and undercuts: Niches within the niches...and the art of "editing"

Niche habitats have always fascinated me. You know, distinct little areas within a larger habitat, which provide unique and different ecological and structural characteristics for the fishes which reside in them. 

The interesting thing about niches is just how fishes come to inhabit them.

Among the richest habitats for fishes in streams and rivers are so-called "drop-offs", in which the bottom contour takes a significant plunge and increase in depth. These are often caused by current over time, or even the accumulation of rocks and fallen trees, which "dam up" the stream a bit. (extra- you see this in Rift Lakes in Africa, too...right? Yeah.) 

Fishes are often found in drop offs in significant numbers, because these spots afford depth (which thwarts the hunting efforts those pesky birds), typically slower water movement, numerous "nooks and crannies" in which to forage, hide, or spawn, and a more restive "dining area" for fishes without strong currents. They are typically found near the base of tree roots...From an aquascaping perspective, replicating this aspect of the underwater habitat gives you a lot of cool opportunities.

And of course, these types of habitats are perfect subjects for aquarium representation, aren't they?

If you're saddled with one of those seemingly ridiculously deep tanks, a drop-off could be a perfect subject to replicate. And there are even commercially-made "drop-off" tanks now! Consider how a drop-off style encompasses a couple of different possible niches in the aquarium as it does in Nature!

Overhanging trees and other forms of vegetation are common in jungle/forest areas, as we've discussed many times. Fishes will tend to congregate under these plants for the dimmer lighting, "thermal protection", and food (insects and fruits/seeds) that fall off the trees and shrubs into the water. (allochthonous input- we've talked about that before a few times here!) And of course, if you're talking about a "leaf litter" or botanically-influenced aquascape, a rather dimly-lit, shallow tank could work out well.

And of course, in the areas prone to seasonal inundation, you'll often see trees and shrubs partially submerged, or with their branch or root structures projecting into the water. Imagine replicating THIS look in an aquarium. Contemplate the behavioral aspects in your fishes that such a feature will foster!

Lots of leaves, small pieces of wood, and seed pods on the substrtae- doing what they do- breaking down-would complete a cool look. For a cool overall scene, you could introduce some riparian plants to simulate the bank as well. A rich habitat with a LOT of opportunities for the creative 'scaper!

Why not create an analogous stream/river feature that is known as an "undercut?" Pretty much the perfect hiding spot for fishes in a stream or river, and undercuts occur where the currents have cut a little cave-like hole in the rock or substrate material near the shore.

Not only does this feature provide protection from birds and other above-water predators, it gives fishes "express access" to deeper water for feeding and escaping in-water predators!

Trees growing nearby add to the attractiveness of an undercut for a fish (for reasons we just talked about), so subdued lighting would be cool here. You can build up a significant undercut with lots of substrate, rocks, and some wood. Sure, you'd have some reduced water capacity, but the effect could be really cool.

Fun niches to consider for your next tank..or your existing one, too! I address this idea, because I get a lot of emails that read something like, "Damn, Scott I like that idea you just mentioned, but I can't get another tank, and my current one is established and I'd hate to break the whole thing down!"

There's no reason why you can't embrace one of these ideas and incorporate it into your existing aquarium, right? I mean, sure, you may have to do some "remodeling", but it's certainly do-able!

Yeah, you CAN revise your aquarium while it's "mid-life-cycle" and: a) not kill all of your fishes, and b) significantly alter the type of habitat that you're representing in your aquarium. 

Yeah, our fishes are a lot more resilient than we give them credit for!

I recall not too long ago, when I would work on my aquariums and needed/wanted to do something that would be sort of disruptive to the tank, like moving some rocks, wood, tearing out some plants, etc.- I literally had to "psych myself up to do it.."  I was always of this mindset of "Don't do THAT- it'll upset the whole system..."

I used to feel that the whole idea of keeping an aquarium was to keep it pristine and untouched, like the day it was set up...sort of like a new car...you know...don't get that first scratch on it! Like, I was afraid to do stuff that would stir up the sand or to move stuff around too much. I mean, I felt that this activity could disrupt the system to "the point of no return."

I was worried it would stress the fishes too much, or whatever.

As if Nature isn't a rather chaotic place, filled with all sorts of natural occurrences for which our fishes need to compensate for in some manner, right? Now, I realize that in Nature, a fish can escape pretty far away from a disturbance, but still..a disturbance is a disturbance, right?

Yup.

Now, I realize that digging deep into a long-established sand bed or tearing out all of the long-established biological filter media in a highly populated tank are examples of "no fly zones"- stuff you'd be foolish to do- stuff that CAN have real negative consequences for our fishes. Disrupting the function of the biological filtration of your aquarium is always a sketchy prospect, at best. 

But stuff like moving some wood... repositioning rockwork, or just netting out some fishes temporarily while you do a major disruptive cleaning isn't all that bad...That kind of stuff would typically stress ME out far more than the fishes I'd be so worried about. And, in decades of working on tanks, I honestly think I could count the number of fishes lost during heavy-duty work in their tanks on the fingers of one hand...I mean, I can't really recall any incidents! I mean, for a LOT of fishes, it's just not as big a deal as I seem to have made it over the years...Really.

Sure, moving around fry or newly settled-out marine fish larvae, known delicate fishes like Discus, or disrupting fishes tending to their brood is an obvious "no-no", but let's be honest- moving 'em around periodically is not such a big deal.

Breeders and people with 50-tank fish rooms know this initmately!

I have no idea where this mindset/perception of "disruption=catastrophe" that I held for so many years came from. 

And, as I heard a little kid say once in the LFS to his dad, attempting to convince him to buy that Red Tailed Shark right then and there, while the father reminded him that they still had a day of shopping ahead, "Dad, fishes don't break so easily...."

Brilliant. Perfect, even.

I couldn't have phrased it any better! The little guy was spot-on!

I think that we, as hobbyists tend to get a bit nervous about "messing" with tanks in general.Yet, I can't help but think that a well-thought-out aquarium which embraces biological stability and common-sense aquarium practices can create a natural "line of defense" that will provide protection and foster resiliency in our fishes.

 So, yeah- if you have an urge to switch it up now and then, study your tank, think through the process, and execute...And be willing to accept some risk. 

Look at some of those unique niche habitats, and see how you might be able to incorporate them into your next tank...Or your existing one!

Stay thoughtful. Stay resourceful. Stay creative. Stay diligent...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

The only "hacks" worth doing...

If you know one thing about me personally, it's that I just abhor shortcuts, "hacks", or "cheats" in the hobby.

Now I know, it's sort of an aggressive stance, but the idea of such practices really goes against my larger philosophical orientation of aquarium keeping. Trying to skirt the necessary practices which require time, patience, observation, and discipline in favor of "quick and easy" is often (not always) a recipe for problems down the line- particularly when dealing with live animal ecosystems.

We've talked a lot about the practice of adding botanical materials slowly to the aquarium, and things that impact how quickly, and how long the water retains its tint.

It's kind of a big deal for us- I get it! Many hobbyists who have perhaps added some catappa leaves, "blackwater extracts", or rooibos tea to their water contact me asking why the water doesn't stay tinted for more than a few days. Now, I'm flattered to be a sort of "clearing house" for this stuff, but I must confess, I don't have all the answers.

Obviously, I'm not saying that the botanical-style aquarium approach should be all drudgery and ceaseless devotion to a series of steps and guidelines issued by...someone. NO! That's even more frightening to me than the idea of "shortcuts" and "hacks!" Dogma sucks. And guess what? Ideas and practices evolve over time as we learn more about what we're doing and accumulate more experience. And that often makes me re-visit ideas which I might have formerly looked at in a more negative way.

Yeah, imagine that? Even crochety old me re-visiting ideas I've formerly "poo-pooed."

One of the questions we receive a lot is, "Can I use the water which I prepare botanicals as a sort of 'blackwater extract' or 'tea' to add to my aquarium?"  My answer has been, and still is the same: I don't recommend it, because in addition to the tannins and humic substances which are exuded during the prep process, you are also releasing a lot of dirt, dust, and organic pollutants which are bound up in the surface tissues of your botanicals.

My feeling is that the addition of a concentrated "brew" of the very stuff you're trying to eliminate via preparation into your aquarium is counter-productive at least, and downright detrimental to water quality at worst! Hardly worth the trade-off of losing ga small amount of the treasured tannins and humic substances, IMHO.

Yet, the questions continued. And the idea of utilizing the "tea" produced during the prep process persisted. And people asked about other stuff.

Hobbyists have for years played with other alternatives, such as Rooibos tea, which, in addition to bing kind of tasty, has been a favored "tint hack" of many hobbyists for years. Without getting into all of the boring details, Rooibos tea is derived from the Aspalathus linearis plant, also known as "Red Bush" in South Africa and other parts of the world. 

(Rooibos, Aspalathus linearis.  Image by R.Dahlgr- used under CC-BY S.A. 2.5)

It's been used by fish people for a long time as a sort of instant "blackwater extract", and has a lot going for it for this purpose, I suppose. Rooibos tea does not contain caffeine, and and has low levels of tannin compared to black or green tea. And, like catappa leaves and other botanicals, it contains polyphenols, like flavones, flavanols, aspalathin, etc. 

Hobbyists will simply steep it in their aquariums and get the color that they want, and impart some of these substances into their tank water."Cold extraction." I mean, it's an easy process. Of course, like any other thing you add to your aquarium, it's never a bad idea to know the impact of what you're adding. 

Like using botanicals, utilizing tea bags in your aquarium requires some thinking, that's all. 

And of course, it got me thinking. I mean, tea is essentially defined as, "...a hot drink made by infusing the dried crushed leaves of the tea plant in boiling water."

I suppose that, by definition, it doesn't really differ substantially from what we are producing when we utilize botanicals in our aquariums- with the notable exceptions that we are: a) not drinking our tank water and b) allowing the botanicals themselves to impart the tannins and humic substances at their own "speed" over time (after preparation) into the water. More like a slow infusion, right? Oh, and of course, using the botanicals themselves in our tanks allows fishes and other aquatic animals to interact with them and use them for shelter and foraging, just like they do in the wild...

And yeah, I admit, I was openly critical of the idea of using Rooibos and many "extracts." 

The things that I personally dislike about using tea or so-called "blackwater extracts" are that you are simply going for an effect, without getting to embrace the functional aesthetics imparted by adding leaves, seed pods, etc. to your aquarium as part of its physical structure, and that there is no real way to determine how much you need to add to achieve______.

Obviously, the same could be said of botanicals, but we're not utilizing botanicals simply to create brown water or specific pH parameters, etc.

Yet, with tea or extracts, you sort of miss out on replicating a little slice of Nature in your aquarium. And that's a different sort of thing. And getting my head around this sort of changed my thinking just a bit.

Of course, it's fine if your goal is just to color the water, I suppose. And I understand that some people, like fish breeders who need bare bottom tanks or whatever- like to condition water without all of the "leaves and twigs and nuts" we love.

THAT suddenly registered in me!

There is ( I know, because I listen to you guys!) an entire population of aquarists who love the tint of the water, the benefits of humic substances and tannins, but simply don't like all of the decomposing materials, biofilms, etc. which accompany the addition of botanicals in aquairums.

I get it.

On the other hand, if you're trying to replicate the look and function (and maybe some of the parameters) of THIS:

You won't achieve it by using THIS:

It's not "wrong" or "lazy"- it's simply a different route....for a different purpose!

And look, I understand that we are all looking for the occasional "shortcuts" and easier ways to do stuff. Life is busy. This hobby is supposed to be fun. And I realize that none of what we proffer here at Tannin is an absolute "science." It's an art at this point. There is no current way available to the hobby to test for "x" types or amounts of tannins (of which there are many hundreds) in aquariums.

 I have not even found a study thus far which analyzed wild habitats (say, Amazonia) for tannin concentrations and specific types, so we have no real model to go on.

The best we can do is create a reasonable facsimile of Nature using whatever means are at our disposal. And for some people, the "reasonable facsimile" is just tinted water.

So, we introduced "Shade"- the closest thing you'll ever see to a superficial  "hack" from Tannin Aquatics, I promise.

These sachets were created specifically to easily apply the influence of botanicals to aquariums for a wide variety of hobbyists.

Now, by "influence", I'm primarily referring to the color. Sure, these sachets can also impact pH of the water if you use reverse osmosis/deionized water to operate your aquariums. If not, they'll simply impart some color (and likely tannins and humic substances) into the water...Not a bad thing, but don't fool yourself. You need to test the impact of "Shade" on your water chemistry to know for sure.

Although "Shade" is a carefully formulated  well-tested alternative to "dumb old tea bags", it's not a "miracle" product.  It just isn't. "Shade" won't guarantee that you'll get your wild Cardinal Tetras to spontaneously spawn on command. It won't cure fungal diseases.

It WILL help you achieve the color effects you are looking for. Because it's comprised of the botanicals we offer, it WILL offer many of the same potential health benefits to your aquatic animals that using our botanicals in your aquariums in their "natural" form will.

Of course, even those benefits are STILL not fully understood, 100% predictable, or really all that well-defined! (C'mon, you didn't think I could guarantee THAT kind of stuff, did ya?)

It's a cool product, regardless, INHO! 

Way better than what's out there now, if we say so ourselves!😆

Yes, it's not super-duper cheap like products which consist of just crushed catappa leaves are- becuase more botanical materials, more thought, and more "R&D" went into this product! Some of you won't like it, or simply dismiss it as bullshit or whatever. I get it.

The most important thing is to understand the "capabilities" of botanical materials to impact the environment of our aquaria.

We have to understand that there are limitations to the impacts of botanicals, tea, wood, etc. on water chemistry.  Expectations are important- and we need to consider exactly what it is we're trying to accomplish. 

Adding liter upon liter of "extract" to your aquarium will have minimal pH impact if your water is super hard. When you're serious about trying to create more natural blackwater conditions, you really need an RO/DI unit to achieve "base water" with no carbonate hardness that's more "malleable" to environmental manipulation. Tea, twigs, leaves, extracts, "Shade"- none will do much unless you understand that.

So, "Why doesn't my water stay tinted, Scott?"

Well, I admit I don't know. Well, not for certain, anyways!

I do, however, have some information, observations, and a bunch of ideas about this- any of which might be litter rely shot to pieces by someone with the proper scientific background. However, I can toss some of these seemingly uncoordinated facts out there to give us all some stuff to "chew on" as I offer my ideas up.

Now, perhaps it starts with the way we "administer" the color-producing tannins. 

Like, I personally think that utilizing leaves, bark, and seed pods is perhaps the best way to do this. I'm sure that you're hardly surprised, right? Well, it's NOT just because I sell these material for a living...It's because they are releasing tannins, humic substances, and other compounds into the water "full time" during their presence in the aquarium as they break down. A sort of "on-board" producer of these materials, with their own "half life" (for want of a better term!).

The continuous release of tint-producing compounds keeps things more-or-less constant. And, if you're part of the "school" which leaves your botanicals in your aquarium to completely break down, you're certainly getting maximum value out of them! And if you are continuously adding/replacing them with new ones as they completely or partially break down, you're actively replenishing and adding additional "tint-producing" capabilities to your system, right?

So why doesn't your water stay dark?

One interesting possibility here: More alkaline solutions tend to draw out tannic acid from wood than pH neutral or acidic water does.if you have more alkaline water, those tannins are more quickly pulled out. So you might get an initial burst, but the color won't last all that long... 

Hmm...

There is another way to "keep the tint" going in your tanks, and it's pretty easy. When you prepare your water for water changes, it's typically down a few days to a week in advance, so why not use this time to your advantage and "pre-tint" the water by steeping some leaves in it? Not only will it keep the "aesthetics" of your water ( can you believe we're even talking about "the aesthetics of water?") consistent (i.e.; tinted), it will already have humic substances and tannins dissolved into it, helping you, in theory, to keep a more stable environment within your system.

Obviously, you'd still have to check your pH and other parameters, but the addition of leaves to your replacement water is a great little "hack" that you should take advantage of.

Damn, I hate that word!

I admit, it's also a really good way to get the "look" and some of the benefits of blackwater for your system from the outset, especially for those of you heathens that like the color of blackwater and despise all of the decomposing leaves and seed pods and stuff!

So, if you're just setting up a brand new aquarium, and have some water set aside for the tank, why not use the time while it's aging to "pre-tint" it a bit, so you can have a nice dark look from day one? It's also great if you're setting up a tank for an aquascaping contest or  other same-day club event, or even an Instagram Live session (how shallow of you..!) that would make it advantageous to have a tinted tank immediately!

I must confess that yet another one of the more common questions we receive here from hobbyists is, "How can I get the tint in my tank more quickly?"- and this is definitely one way!

How many botanicals to use?

Well, that's the million dollar question.

Who knows?

It all gets back to the (IMHO) absurd "recommendations" that have been proffered by vendors over the years recommending using "x" number of leaves, for example, per gallon/liter of water. There are simply far, far too many variables- ranging from starting water chem to pH to alkalinity, and dozens of others- which can affect the "equation" and make specific numbers unreliable at best. 

No "hacks" there.

Technique is so important. Discovering what works for you. As is understanding what's happening in your aquarium. And really, at the end of the day, the greatest "hack" you can apply to the aquarium hobby- the only one worth doing- is gaining the advantage that knowledge gives you.

So, my recommendation is to DO stuff. Educate yourself, and apply what you've learned. Share with others. Rinse and repeat.

Stay resourceful. Stay curious. Stay observant. Stay creative. Stay motivated...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

"Research and Development..."

One of the most exciting things about botanical-style/blackwater aquariums is that there is so much that we still don't know. Despite an explosion of interest in this unique approach to natural aquariums, there's still a significant amount of unknowns.

Hobbyists have been adding botanical materials, in the form of wood, twigs, and leaves, for generations. Yet the rationale behind there use for many years was to provide a natural form of "decor", as opposed to looking at things from the standpoint of aesthetics and function.

With benefits of the use of these materials becoming more apparent to all who play with them in their aquariums, we're starting to see a shift towards trying to understand just what it is about these materials that is so beneficial to our fishes!

And of course, the key to understanding the "how's and why's" of botanical-style aquariums starts with understanding the role that these materials play in natural aquatic habitats.

There's been a fair amount of research and speculation by both scientists and hobbyists about the processes which occur when terrestrial materials like leaves and botanical items enter aquatic environments, and most of it is based upon field observations.

As hobbyists, we have a rather unique opportunity to observe firsthand the impact and affects of this material in our own aquariums! I love this aspect of our "practice", as it creates really interesting possibilities to embrace and create more naturally-functioning systems, while possibly even "validating" the field work done by scientists!

It goes without saying that there are implications for both the biology and chemistry of the aquatic habitats when leaves and other botanical materials enter them. Many of these are things that we as hobbyists also observe every day in our aquariums! We see firsthand how leaves and botanical materials impact the life of our fishes and other aquatic organisms in these closed systems.

"Indoor fieldwork", if you will!

That's what we do...

Phenomenon such as the appearance of  our friends, the biofilms- long a topic that simply never came up in the hobby outside of dedicated shrimp keepers- are now simply "part of the equation" in a properly-established botanical-style aquarium. We understand that they appear as a normal part of the process when terrestrial materials become submerged under water. We're seeing them for the benefits they provide for our systems, rather than freaking out and panicking at their first appearance!

This is a fairly profound shift in the hobby, if you ask me!

A lab study I came upon found out that, when leaves are saturated in water, biofilm is at its peak when other nutrients (i.e.; nitrate, phosphate, etc.) tested at their lowest limits. This is interesting to me, because it seems that, in our botanical-style, blackwater aquariums, biofilms tend to occur early on, when one would assume that these compounds are at their highest concentrations, right? And biofilms are essentially the byproduct of bacterial colonization, meaning that there must be a lot of "food" for the bacteria at some point if there is a lot of biofilm, right?

More questions...

Does this imply that the biofilms arrive on the scene and peak out really quickly; an indication that there is actually less nutrient in the water? Is the nutrient bound up in the biofilms themselves? And when our fishes and other animals consume them, does this provide a significant source of sustenance for them?

Hmm...?

Oh, and here is another interesting wild habitat observation that has an aquarium correlate:

When leaves fall into streams, field studies have shown that their nitrogen content typically will increase. Why is this important? Scientists see this as evidence of microbial colonization, which is correlated by a measured increase in oxygen consumption. This is interesting to me, because the rare "disasters" that we see in our tanks (when we do see them, of course, which fortunately isn't very often at all)- are usually caused by the hobbyist adding a really large quantity of leaves at once, resulting in the fishes gasping at the surface- a sign of...oxygen depletion?

Makes sense, right? 

As I've said repeatedly, if we don't make the effort to try to understand the "how's and why's" of Nature, and attempt to skirt Her processes- she can and will kick our asses! The aforementioned is a classic example of how something which occurs in Nature also occurs in our aquariums- with profoundly negative results if we don't understand the implications.

These are interesting clues about the process of decomposition of leaves when they enter into our aquatic ecosystems. They have huge implications for our use of botanicals and the way we manage our aquariums. I think that the simple fact that pH and oxygen tend to go down quickly when leaves are initially submerged in pure water during lab tests gives us an idea as to what to expect. This is why we are so adamant about going slowly when adding botanicals and leaves to an established, stable aquarium.

And a sort of "set of expectations" is always nice to have when you're pursuing unusual approaches in aquarium keeping, right? It is- and that's why we've devoted so much time over the years towards educating our community about the potential issues which can arise if you flaunt Nature's "rules" concerning environmental changes in our tanks. 

A lot of the initial environmental changes in our aquariums will happen rather rapidly, and then stabilize over time. Which of course, leads me to conclude that the development of sufficient populations of organisms to process the incoming botanical load is a critical part of the establishment of our botanical-style aquariums.

We're at a point now- some five plus years into our journey at Tannin Aquatics, with hundreds of articles, social media posts, videos, and podcasts- that I feel it's time for each and every hobbyists to make use of this information and to accept responsibility for his or her decisions in utilizing botanicals in their aquariums. With the volume of information about once arcane topics now so readily available, there is simply no excuse for not taking the time to understand some of this stuff before jumping into this endeavor.

A bit of "tough love", but if you want to play- you need to know the rules, right?

Here's another thing to consider: Inputs of terrestrial materials like leaf litter and seed pods can leach dissolved organic carbon, rich in lignin and cellulose.  Factors like light, mineral hardness, and the bacterial community affect the degree to which this material is broken down into its constituent parts in this environment.

Or, if the resulting breakdown creates some "algae fuel"- right?

Hmm...something we've kind of known for a while, right?

Light+nutrient= algae growth.

Our botanical-style aquariums might look a bit different, and embrace a slightly different approach, but the same "constants" which apply to almost any other type of closed system aquarium apply to ours as well.

However, some things that we play with do seem to give very unique results. In botanical-stye, blackwater aquariums we're seeing more and more reports of "spontaneous" spawnings of all sorts of different fishes associated with these types of conditions.

Often, it's a group of fishes that the aquarist had for a while, perhaps with little effort put into spawning them, and then it just sort of "happened." For others, it is perhaps expected- maybe the ultimate goal as it relates to a specific species...but was just taking a long time!

The "common denominator" in all of the reports we receive are that the fishes are displaying better overall color, vigor, and overall health after being recently exposed to the more "physiologically appropriate" conditions of a blackwater aquarium. Now, this is by no means us stating that blackwater/botanical-style tanks are somehow magical, and possess the ability to make every fish magically thrive and spawn- or that this is some amazing "secret" that we've stumbled upon.

Nope. It's as old as the hobby itself. Provide fishes the right conditions, and they will thrive and spawn. It's hardly magic.

Rather, it's part of of an affirmation of a theory which I've developed over the decades that fishes from specialized environments- even those which might be several generations captive-bred, can always benefit from being "re-patriated" to the conditions under which they have evolved for eons.

Of course, with botanical-style aquariums, we know that we have a few things going for us already.

I think there is a lot to be said for the potential benefits of humic substances for fishes- substances which are found in abundance in the natural botanical materials we play with-and indeed, much research has been done in this area already by science.

Still, much is yet to be fully understood, but suffice it to say, there are a variety of health benefits ascribed to humic substances found in blackwater and other  habitats, and the "superficial", yet numerous observations we've made thus far seem to confirm this!

What advantages do they give us when we're trying to breed fishes from these habitats?

One could generally state that they reduce stress, if nothing else, right? That's at least a start. It's long been known that fishes kept under conditions which minimize stress are healthier overall, and part of the overall health is that they will engage more readily in natural behaviors such as spawning.

DO botanical-style aquariums accomplish this?

I think so. However, I'll be the first to admit that we're still learning about this stuff, aren't we? So to draw anything more than the most superficial conclusion is just speculative.

And some of that "research and development" comes from looking at the wild ecosystems of the world, and figuring our how to replicate them on a deeper level. It's all very exciting. Very interesting...And very much in the tradition of the aquarium hobby.

Keep after it. 

Stay enthusiastic. Stay diligent. Stay resourceful. Stay persistent...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

 

The "players" behind the process...

When we create a new botanical-style aquarium, we need to take into account the stuff that we can't see, but that we know is there. The organisms which make up the "microbiome." 

Every aquarium has a microbiome to a certain extent: An ecological community, comprised of billions of bacteria and other microorganisms, working together to create a diverse, thriving closed ecosystem within the aquarium.

Aquariums- every type- have enormous populations of bacteria, performing all sorts of functions within the system. We are all familiar with the beneficial bacteria which facilitate the nitrogen cycle, and play a vital role in the function of our little worlds. And we know that bacteria and other microorganisms commonly associated with botanical-style aquariums provide numerous other benefits besides denitrification. 

The botanical-style aquarium is no different than any other aquarium type in that regard. These bacteria are ubiquitous in the microbiome. It's an elegant, complex set of interdependencies and relationships on many levels. It is a lot to think about...Like many of you, I have an understanding of the basics, but really delving into this stuff requires a deeper understanding. It's the place where my basic high school and college elective-course biology falls away, and you get into more complex aspects of aquatic ecology in aquariums.

Yet, it's important to at least understand the "biome" concept as it can relate to aquariums. It's worth doing a bit of research and pondering. It'll educate you, challenge you, and make you a better overall aquarist. In this little blog, we can't possibly cover every aspect of this- especially with my lack of scientific training-but we can touch on a few points that are really fascinating and impactful.

An interesting place to start is to simply review a bit about the very composition of the materials that we play with, like seed pods and leaves and such, and how they interact with the aquatic environments that we've created, and the organisms which populate them.

Many seed pods and similar botanicals contain a substance known as lignin. Lignin is defined as a group of organic polymers which are essentially the structural materials which support the tissues of vascular plants. They are common in bark, wood, and yeah- seed pods, providing protection from rotting and structural rigidity.

In other words, they make seed pods kinda tough.

That being said, they are typically broken down by fungi and bacteria in aquatic environments. Inputs of terrestrial materials, like leaf litter and seed pods into aquatic habitats can leach dissolved organic carbon (DOC), rich in lignin and cellulose. Factors like light intensity, mineral hardness, and the composition of the aforementioned bacterial /fungal community all affect the degree to which this material is broken down into its constituent parts in this environment.

Hmm...something we've kind of known for a while, right?

So, lignin is a major component of the "stuff" that's leached into our aquatic environments, along with that other big "player"- tannin.

Tannins, according to chemists, are a group of "astringent biomolecules" that bind to and precipitate proteins and other organic compounds. They're in almost every plant around, and are thought to play a role in protecting the plants from predation and potentially aid in their growth. As you might imagine, they are super-abundant in...leaves. In fact, it's thought that tannins comprise as much as 50% of the dry weight of leaves!

Whoa!

And of course, tannins in leaves, wood, soils, and plant materials tend to be highly water soluble, creating our beloved blackwater as they decompose. As the tannins leach into the water, they create that transparent, yet darkly-stained water we love so much!  

Ecological scientists will tell you that blackwater tends to occur when the rate of "carbon fixation" (photosynthesis) and its partial decay to soluble organic acids exceeds its rate of complete decay to carbon dioxide (oxidation).

Chew on that concept for a bit...Try to really wrap your head around it...I'm still grappling with it, myself! 🤔

It's worth researching and pondering. And sometimes, the research you do on these topics can unlock some interesting tangential information which can be applied to our work in aquariums...

Another interesting tidbit of information from science: For those of you weirdos who like using wood, leaves and such in your aquariums, but hate the brown water (yeah, there are a few of you)- you can add baking soda to the water that you soak your wood and such in to accelerate the leaching process, as more alkaline solutions tend to draw out tannic acid from wood than pH neutral or acidic water does. Or you can simply keep using your 8.4 pH tap water! 

"ARMCHAIR SPECULATION": This might be a good answer to why some people can't get the super dark tint they want for the long term...Based upon that model, if you have more alkaline water, those tannins are more quickly pulled out. So you might get an initial burst, but the color won't last all that long...

Interesting stuff, and all part of the little "stew" we make when we set up a botanical-style aquarium, right?

I think just having a bit more than a superficial understanding of the way botanicals and other materials interact with the aquatic environment, and how we can embrace and attempt to replicate these systems in our own aquariums is really important to the hobby. The real message here is to not be afraid of learning about seemingly complex chemical and biological nuances of blackwater systems, and to apply some of this knowledge to our aquatic practice.

Yeah, it's the "jumping off point" for one of my favorite speculative areas in our little hobby speciality:

With botanicals breaking down in the aquarium as a result of the growth of fungi and microorganisms, I can't help but wonder if they perform, to some extent, a role in the management-or enhancement-of the nitrogen cycle.

In other words, does having a bunch of leaves and other botanical materials in the aquarium foster a larger population of these valuable organisms, capable of processing organics- thus creating a more stable, robust biological filtration capacity in the aquarium?

With a matrix of materials present, the bacteria (and their biofilms, as we've discussed a number of times here) have not only a "substrate" upon which to attach and colonize, but an "on board" food source which they can utilize as needed? Facultative bacteria, adaptable organisms which can use either dissolved oxygen or oxygen obtained from food materials such as sulfate or nitrate ions, would also be capable of switching to fermentation or anaerobic respiration if oxygen is absent.

Hmm...fermentation.

We've talked about that before, right?

And I'm not talking about this in regards to making kambocha, either!  Botanical "layers"- particularly, leaf litter beds- in the wild, offer an interesting study in nutrient processing and food production for the surrounding aquatic ecosystems. And, although botanicals accumulate to significant depth in some areas, the processes which we are fascinated with even occur at surprisingly shallow depths...

One study of wild leaf litter beds in Amazonia indicated that the majority of the aerobic decomposition probably occurs in the upper 10 cm of the leaf litter bed, as lower material is more tightly packed, reducing O2 diffusion, and is generally older and already well decomposed. It is also thought that fermentation processes release acids (specifically, acetic acid), which help reduce the pH substantially within these beds. 

So, we have biological processes occurring in botanical/leaf litter beds which a)facilitate nutrient processing in the habitat, b)contribute to the food chain, and c)potentially influence the chemical parameters of the water.

That's just like what happens in the wild habitats, isn't it?

Studying the influences of Nature on aquatic environments, and how to replicate and incorporate these influences into our aquariums is the key. Building a specialized aquatic microcosm in our tanks will unlock somany secrets and lead to amazing breakthroughs with our fishes.

The thing that's unique about the botanical-style approach is that we tend to accept the idea of decomposing materials accumulating in our systems. We understand that they act, to a certain extent, as "fuel" for the micro and macrofauna which reside in the aquarium, and that they perform this function as long as they are present in the system.

I have long been one the belief that if you decide to let the botanicals remain in your aquarium to break down and decompose completely, that you shouldn't change course by suddenly removing the material all at once. Personally, I consider this an essential practice in the management of botanical-style aquariums.

The point is, our aquariums, much like the wild habitats we strive to replicate, are constantly evolving, accumulating new materials, and creating new physical habitats for fishes to forage among. New food sources and chemical/energy inputs are important to the biological diversity and continuity of the flooded forests and streams of the tropics, and they play a similar role in our aquariums.

In the case of our fave aquatic habitats, like streams, ponds, and inundated forests, epiphytes are abundant, and many fishes will spend large amounts of time foraging the "biocover" on tree trunks, branches, leaves, and other botanical materials.

The biocover consists of stuff like algae, biofilms, and fungi. Although most animals use leaves and tree branches for shelter and not directly as a food item, grazing on this epiphytic growth is which occurs on them is very important.

Fungi tend to colonize wood because it offers them a lot of surface area to thrive and live out their life cycle. And cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin- the major components of wood and botanical materials- are degraded by fungi which posses enzymes that can digest these materials! Fungi are regarded by biologists to be the dominant organisms associated with decaying leaves in streams, so this gives you some idea as to why we see them in our aquariums, right?

I am of the opinion that a botanical-style aquarium, complete with its decomposing leaves and seed pods, can serve as a sort of "buffet" for many fishes- even those who's primary food sources are known to be things like insects and worms and such. Detritus and the organisms within it can provide an excellent supplemental food source for our fishes!

It all seems to go back to food, doesn't it?

We have the opportunity to create an aquatic microcosm which provides not only unique aesthetics- it provides soem supplemental nutritional value for our fishes, and perhaps most important- nutrient processing- a self-generating population of creatures that compliment, indeed, create the biodiversity in our systems on a more-or-less continuous basis.

True "functional aesthetics", indeed!

Natural materials, submerged in water, processed by a huge diversity of organisms, working together. A microbiome.  

Gaining a superficial understanding of the processes, the "players", and the benefits which occur in healthy botanical-style aquariums is one of the most important things we can do to create beautiful, biologically diverse, and highly successful systems.

Get to know those players. Study the processes. Embrace the aesthetics. Enjoy.

Stay informed. Stay excited. Stay curious. Stay observant...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Back to the mud holes...

If you haven't figured it out by now, I'm kind of partial to unusual habitats. I'm sort of obsessed with weird environmental niches that we may have not only overlooked- but perhaps not even considered before.

And perhaps one of the easiest to overlook is the idea of a mud hole.

You heard me.

A mud hole

Yeah, on the surface, this sounds easy and just like a breeding jar or something: Throw peat on the bottom, add your killies...yeah, "mudhole"; whatever..Next. "Fellman, you just described a breeding jar for killies...!"Uh-uh. NOPE. Not gonna let you get away that easy. I'm talking more of a paludarium-type setup, with a strong terrestrial component. Perhaps something more liek the "Urban Igapo" idea I'[ve pushed so much around here. 

You'd probably set it up not unlike a terrarium for reptiles: Somewhat barren, with patches of terrestrial vegetation here and there, and a substrate really consisting of a mix of peat/mud/fine sand. The emphasis more on recreating the overall look  and function than solely the utility of function.

It's not for temporary breeding, either. We're talking "display tank" here!

And it would be shallow water; probably not exceeding 6-8 inches (15.24-20.32cm) in depth. Circulation? Nope.  Filtration? Not likely. You'd be relegated to small water changes with a plastic cup a couple of times a week or more. Even that is not 100% accurate to the biotope, but infinitely more "realistic" than what a lot of us have done before. You'll have dark, acidic water, a small population of fishes, and the challenges of managing bioload in a filter-less "water hole."

"Great, a stagnant tank full of muddy water in my living room. Great fucking idea, Scott. Right on."

Obviously, the starting point for replicating a mud hole in an aquarium is...well...MUD! Er, at least, the stuff you use to create the bottom.

For some time, I've been very intrigued about the terrestrial and other soils that hobbyists who keep "dirted" planted aquariums have utilized for years to facilitate amazing plant growth. However, I'm not talking about them for growing plants- I'm talking about using these materials for the primary substrate in the natural, botanical-focused aquarium, in which plants may or may not play a role.

Now, sure, there are considerations- such as an influx of a lot of nutrient-laden materials into the aquarium (not as important if you're growing plants, of course), and the sheer "messiness" of soils, clays and silt-which have created some consternation among those who use them. Sure, these materials are easily disturbed and can create some rather turbid conditions in the tank as they settle. 

Right from the start, you have a pretty good idea about why this practice isn't exactly taking the aquarium world by storm, is it?

 

Hell, what could go wrong? 😆

I've heard about concerns over gasses and such being trapped under the soil substrate (likely more of a concern when you're employing a "cap" of sand or other material on top of the soil/silt/clay to retain it) and being released into the tank during maintenance and other activities. Now, in my experiments, I have not experienced this. And I'm not using tremendous depths of sand.

I don't use a "sand cap" on top of my "dirt"- rather, I tend to mix in bits of crushed leaves, botanicals, and twigs, which seems to not only keep the materials together, but enhances the natural, "random" look. I gradually saturate and "flood" these tanks, a sort of analog to what happens in Nature during the periods of inundation in the forests.

I'm sure that I'll get a dozen emails from hobbyists telling me that it's irresponsible snd dangerous to utilize such an approach to substrate in a fish-focused tank, but in almost 7 years of personal experimentation with these types of mixes, I've never had any issues whatsoever- other than the aforementioned cloudiness when the substrate is disturbed. In fact, after a few months, even when the substrate is disturbed in one of these tanks, the cloudiness tends to not occur. Based on my personal experience, I believe that the longer this stuff is down, the more likely it is to STAY down.

Now, does this mean everyone should ditch the time-proven commercial substrate materials and jump head long into creating dirt and silt substrates in their display aquairums?

Of course not.

However, I think it's worth experimenting with.

It's very important to look at our long-held opinions about what aquarium substrates "should" be, and what their role is in the aquarium. We've long offered a variety of materials which we've rather generically called "substrate additives"- stuff you can mix in with conventional sand, soils or use as a primary substrate in experimental systems. Many of you have used our coconut-based coir substrate material, "Fundo Tropical"  or the finer "Substrate Fino" for this purpose over the years as an alternative to peat and such, and it remains a best-seller for us...so I think you're finding interesting uses for this stuff, too.

I think that we should look at substrates in our aquariums as more than just "the bottom" or "a place to put rocks and wood and plants"- but rather, as a dynamic, living, integral component of a balanced closed ecosystem. A place to culture supplemental food organisms, facilitate reproduction of fishes (I'm thinking soil-spawning killies here again), and impact the chemical composition of our water.

It would be great to apply as much emphasis to substrate in this vein as we do to other components of the aquarium. It's about mental shifts; re-thinking the "how's" and "why's" of what we've done for so long.

A "substrate" can be- should be- way more than gravel or plain old sand.

And if we have our say in the matter, it will be!

And of course, if we dip back into Nature for some inspiration- as we should- there is an amazing amount of ideas to take away.. 

Muddy habitats are usually associated with ephemeral habitats, known to ecologists as vernal pools.

Vernal pools are generally found on plains or grasslands, and are typically small bodies of water- often just a few meters wide. The origin of the name, "vernal" refers to  the Spring season. And, this makes a lot of sense, because most of these ephemeral habitats are at their maximum water depth during the Spring!

Vernal pools are typically found in areas comprised of various soil types that contain clays, sediments and silts. They can develop into what geologists call "hydric soils", which  are defined as, “...a soil that formed under conditions of saturation, flooding, or ponding long enough during the growing season to develop anaerobic conditions in the upper part.”

That's interesting! 

A unique part of the vernal pools is what is an essentially impermeable layer of substrate called "clay pan."  These substrates are hugely important to the formation of these habitats, as the clay soils bind so closely together that they become impermeable to water.  Thus, when it rains, the water percolates until it reaches the "claypan" and just sits there, filling up with decaying plant material, loose soils, and water.

So, yeah- the substrate is of critical importance to the aquatic life forms which reside in these pools! Let's talk killies for a second!  One study of the much-loved African genus Nothobranchius indicated that the soils are "the primary drivers of habitat suitability" for these fish, and that the eggs can only survive the embryonic period and develop in specific soil types containing alkaline clay minerals, known as "smectites", which create the proper soil conditions for this in desiccated pool substrates.

The resulting "mud-rich" substrate in these pools has a low degree of permeability, which enables water to remain in a given vernal pool even after the surrounding water table may have receded! And, of course, a lot of decaying materials, like plant parts and leaf litter is present in the water, which would impact the pH and other characteristics of the aquatic habitat.

Interestingly, it is known by ecologists that the water may stay alkaline despite all of this stuff, because of the buffering capacity of the alkaline clay present in the sediments!

And, to literally "cap it off"- if this impermeable layer were not present, the vernal pools would desiccate too rapidly to permit the critical early phases of embryonic development of the Nothobranchius eggs to occur. Yes, these fishes are tied intimately to their environment.

(Image by Andrew Bogott, used under CC BY-S.A. 4.0)

The fascinating concept of embryonic diapause ( a form of prolonged, yet reversible developmental arrest) is well-known to scientists and lovers of annual killies. The occurrence and length of time of diapause varies from species to species, yet is considered by scientists to be an evolutionary adaptation and ecological trait in various populations of Nothobranchius, tied directly into the characteristics of the ephemeral habitats in which these fish reside!

Diapause assures species survival by enabling the annual life cycle of these fish to be completed, and can even be affected by the presence of adult fishes in the habitat (not a good idea to hatch if potential predators are around, right?)- a fascinating adaptation! Since the embryonic phase of most Nothobranchius is a relatively long period of their lives- and in some species- the longest phase of their life, factors which impact embryonic development are extremely important. 

A temporary pool over a muddy, leaf-strewn substrate can be a fascinating home display, if you ask me. How can we not be tantalized by these natural habitats?

There's a lot going on there!

And we can replicate this habitat quite easily in our aquariums.

If you've been in the hobby long enough, you start noticing how things truly evolve over the years, and how easily we get comfortable doing stuff that, less than a decade before was considered "risky", "non-sustainable", or downright dangerous.

I think so much of it starts with making mental shifts and appreciating the challenges associated with doing stuff slightly different than we have in the past. In other words- simply trying. It seems like there is a certain audacity to doing stuff fundamentally differently than we have in the past; call it what you will- but it's that simple. 

Mindset shifts are beautiful things, because they get us out of our comfort zones and compel us to look at where we were, where we are, how we got there, and where we are going next.

And it often starts with simply playing with mud.

Stay innovative. Stay creative. Stay observant. Stay bold...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

 

A certain (water) quality...

There is a certain mystery surrounding the idea of blackwater, botanical-style aquariums. A lot of misunderstanding, misinterpretations, and downright confusion floating around out there- much of it put out there by hobbyists who might have never even attempted to keep such an aquarium personally.

And, I admit, our botanical-style aquariums are a bit of an enigma.

I mean, we have tanks with all of this stuff decomposing in the water, yet manage to maintain high water quality and stability for extended periods of time without any real "magic", in terms of procedure or equipment. 

What gives?

Are we just lucky? Or, is there a method to this madness?

Of course, not being a scientist makes it kind of challenging for me to make all kinds of assertions about water quality and chemistry, so I will at least try to focus on what we want to achieve, and what we can measure, water quality-wise, and how botanical-style aquariums seem to be able to "pull it off" given the vast quantities of leaves, seed pods, etc. contained within them.

Of course, observation and testing of water parameters are your two best friends, as they are in any hobby speciality. We kind of have a pretty good "handle" on which tests make the most sense for our pursuits, too. It's a given that ammonia, nitrite, pH and DKH are the key indicators which most hobbyist will want to know about. 

Little needs to be said here on the application,  rationale, and interpretation for utilizing such tests in our aquariums. You can Google that topic and pretty much come up with like  3,000 articles on the topic!

Read.

And of course, there are the tests which give us information on the quality of the environment we've created- nitrate and phosphate. These are also very important tests to botanical-style aquarium lovers, as they help us get an understanding of the water quality trends occurring in our tanks.

Nitrate (NO3) is not necessarily considered "toxic" at a specific level, although a typical rule of thumb is to keep readings under 50 mg/l- or better still, 20mg/l or less, for most fishes at various stages of their life cycle.  

Although there is no agreed-upon "lethal dose", as indicated above, and many fishes can tolerate prolonged exposure to up to 500 mg/l of nitrate, studies have revealed that prolonged exposure to elevated levels of nitrate may reduce fishes' immunity, affecting their internal functions and resistance to disease.

Many fishes can adapt- to a certain extent- to a gradual increase in nitrate over time, although long-term physiological damage can occur. And of course, some fishes are much more sensitive to nitrate than others, displaying deteriorating overall health or other symptoms at much lower levels..

One of the interesting things about nitrate is that it can- and will- accumulate and rise over time in the aquarium if insufficient export mechanisms (ie; water exchanges, lack of chemical or biological filtration capacity, etc.) exist within the aquarium. This, of course, gives the impression that fishes are "doing okay" when the reality is that they are exposed to a long-term stressor.

And of course, there are many long-understood approaches to reducing these compounds in aquariums. This is "long-settled" aquarium knowledge, so none of this should be really "new" to you- although it deserves repeating here because it's so fundamentally important to our hobby.

The presence of aquatic plants, long known for their utilization of nitrate as a growth factor, is also considered a viable way to reduce/export nitrates, along with overall good husbandry (ie; stable fish population, proper feeding technique, etc.). In fact, I imagine that with all of the experimentation going on with various aquatic plants in blackwater/botanical-style aquariums, we may simply make the practice of including certain species (say, floating plants or whatever) as a "defacto" part of the nutrient export process in our tanks at some point.

I could see regular pruning and removal of plants as they grow as an easy, effective extension of the nutrient export process, much as we do the same with macro algae in reef aquariums. When you remove plant materials via trimming, you're effectively exporting nutrients from the system permanently.

Of course, even without plants, I have noticed some very interesting long-term trends regarding water quality in my botanical-style aquariums over the years. 

In my botanical-filled, natural-style aquariums, I have personally never observed/measured elevated levels of nitrate. In fact, with a good husbandry regime in place, undetectable (on a hobbyist-grade test kit, at least) levels of nitrate have been the norm for my systems. I think that the highest nitrate reading I've personally recorded in a botanical-style system which I maintained was around 10 mg/l.

Why is this?

Okay, let me speculate a bit, okay?

I think it's about coupling long-trusted husbandry practices with the processes which occur in Nature.

I personally feel that well-maintained systems, including our heavily botanically-influenced ones, offer a significant "medium" for the growth and proliferation of beneficial bacteria species, such as Nitrospira, etc. I have a totally ungrounded "theory" that the presence of botanicals, although in itself a contributor to the the biological load on the aquarium, also is a form of "fuel" to power the nitrification process- a carbon source, if you will, to elevate levels of biological activity in an otherwise well-maintained system. 

Okay, sounds like a lot of cobbled-together "mumbo jumbo", but I think there is something to this.

I mean, when you think about it, a botanically-rich aquarium, with leaves and other materials- fosters the growth of bacteria, fungi, biofilms, and supports crustaceans and other organisms which can consume and metabolize the botanicals as they break down physically, along with fish wastes and other organics which arise as a result of this process.

A sort of "on board" biological filtration system, if you will, with the added benefit that fishes will consume some of these organisms. Perhaps, (and some might say that I'm reaching here a bit) even the basis for a sort of "food web", something that we know exists in all natural aquatic ecosystems.

Something to think about!

I find this among the single most exciting potential benefits of a botanical-style aquarium. In fact, I believe that, once serious scientific study is conducted on this stuff, it may prove to be a foundational component of the botanical-style aquarium. We will embrace the addition and decomposition of natural materials in our aquariums as a sort of "catalyst" to create a stable, productive closed ecosystem, which effectively metabolizes the materials within...

Just like in Nature.

Sure, it may not be the classic definition of "beauty" in the aquarium hobby, but from a functional standpoint, it's magnificent! And yes, I realize that our aquariums, no matter how cool they look and what processes they embrace are not open, natural systems. However, I feel that many of the same processes which occur in Nature are also present in our aquariums, besides just the nitrogen cycle.

Only further research will tell. 

The other measure of water quality that most of us should consider is phosphate (PO4). It's a salt of phosphoric acid- an inorganic chemical. It's an essential chemical for the growth of plants, and other living organisms. Phosphate gets a lot of "bad press" in the hobby-particularly the marine side- as a contributor to the growth and proliferation of algae, which it is.

However, it's really only half of the equation, as algae only grows if nitrogen is also present...And sufficient light, of course. So, it's a contributor to algae issues and overall water quality- not the sole culprit. 

In the reef side of the hobby, phosphate has been vilified as a growth inhibitor to coral, and all manner of additives, reactors, and removal media have been developed to combat it. The reality, IMHO, is that phosphate- although a great measure of overall water quality, tends not to become a problem in an otherwise well-managed aquarium. It gets into our systems in the first place primarily via food, and will accumulate if mechanisms for its absorption/utilization or removal don't exist. 

So, yeah- perform those regular water exchanges. Yet another arguement in favor of them! My head absolutely explodes when I hear hobbyists bragging that they never do water exchanges and that their tank is thriving. WHY in the fuck would you want to do this...and why would you be proud of this completely irresponsible behavior?

Because they are closed aquatic systems, our aquariums can't process 100% of the organic material accumulating in the water. So, when you eschew water exchanges, this stuff is continuing to accumulate, and you're essentially operating on borrowed time before the concentration becomes detrimental to your fishes.

Or, are you? 

I ask this question with all due sincerity.

I mean, could it be that the age-old dream of a "perfectly-balanced aquarium" IS possible- even when what we consider "foundational" husbandry practices are ignored? I couldn't say for certain why "success" comes to people who apparently skirt this basic principle of aquarium keeping. It seems odd that they'd take such a seemingly apathetic approach: Just topping off evaporated water, feeding fishes, replacing filter media, and nothing else.

On the other hand, is there something to it?

Or is this just "dumb luck?" Could it be that they have-perhaps through no deliberate effort of their own (sorry, guys)- achieved some sort of weird "import-export equilibrium", and that the system metabolizes all of the nutrients and trace elements imparted into the water with complete efficiency?

I personally don't thi- Arghh...We'll stop with that here. I could literally debate and theorize this for days...Don't start me! 

I'm not sure if it's the physical process of doing these water exchanges, but a lot of hobbyists just hate doing them. Like really hate them. They'd rather do almost anything else. Entire aquarium product lines, schemes, and "husbandry philosophies" have been invented over the years to help limit- or even "eliminate"- having to do water exchanges.

Hobbyists go to great lengths and expense to avoid doing them, or to automate them. I've seen guys literally flood their homes- like, major "insurance-claim floods", by desigining and building complex automated water exchnaging systems for their tanks that failed. Expensive, complicated, semi-reliable stuff- all to avoid picking up a siphon hose.

Damn.

In the mean time, I'll keep doing- and recommending- water exchanges. 

Oh, and speaking of water exchanges...both nitrate and phosphate are typically present in tap water...So when I espouse the use of an expensive RO/DI unit to "pre-treat" your tap water, I'm recommending a means to eliminate them at the source, giving you at least a good start. Reverse osmosis/deionization units, albeit somewhat pricy, are, in my opinion, an essential piece of equipment for any serious hobbyist. 

In general, the water quality of our botanical-influenced, natural systems is something worthy of a lot of research, experiments, and discussion in our community. There is so much interesting stuff happening in our tanks- and so many things we don't know...

However, for the things that we DO know, we're pretty focused on water quality, and long-term maintenance.

It's really a simple concept: Engaging in regular maintenance practices in botanical-style aquariums is really no different than in any other style of aquarium. The main distinction, as we've said like 5,000 times here, is to balance the practice of adding all of the botanical materials that we add with disciplined husbandry.

Nothing we can tell you is an absolute guarantee of perfect results...

It starts with preparation- a cornerstone of our botanical-style aquarium practice. Remember, you're dealing with natural materials, and the results you'll see are governed by natural processes that we can only impact to a certain extent by preparation before use.

And when it comes time to adding your botanicals to your aquarium, the second "tier" of this process is to add them to your aquarium slowly.

Like, don't add everything all at once, particularly to an established, stable aquarium. Think of botanicals as "bioload", which requires your bacterial/fungal/microcrustacean population to handle them.

Bacteria, in particular, are your first line of defense.

If you add a large quantity of any organic materials to an established system, you will simply overwhelm the existing beneficial bacterial population in the aquarium, which will likely result in a massive increase in ammonia, nitrite, and organic pollutants. At the very least, it will leave oxygen levels depleted, and fishes gasping at the surface as the bacteria population struggles to catch up to the large influx of materials.

This is not some sort of esoteric concept, right? I mean, we don't add 25 3-inch fishes at once to an established, stable 10-gallon aquarium and not expect some sort of negative consequence, right? So why would adding bunch of leaves, botanicals, wood, or other materials containing organics be any different?

It wouldn't.

So please, PLEASE add botanicals to your established aquarium gradually, while observing your fishes' reactions and testing the water parameters regularly during and after the process. Take measured steps.

There is no rush.

There shouldn't be.

It's interesting how the process of selecting, preparing and adding botanical materials to our aquariums has evolved over the time since we've been in business. Initially, it was all about trying to discover what materials weren't "toxic" in some way! Then, it was about figuring out ways to prepare them and make sure that they don't pollute the aquarium.

Finally, it's been about taking the time to add them in a responsible, measured matter, and to manage them as they break down in the aquarium.

 

I think our biggest "struggle" in working with botanicals is a mental one that we have imposed upon ourselves over generations of aquarium keeping:  The need to control our own natural desire to get stuff moving quickly; to hit that "done" thing...fast.

And the reality, as we've talked about hundreds of times here and elsewhere, is that there really is no "finished", and that the botanical-style aquarium is about evolution...

And it all starts with a certain "quality."

Stay diligent. Stay observant. Stay methodical. Stay patient...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

The "Baseline..." and the inevitability of change in the botanical-style aquarium

As botanical-style aquariums "mature", it's obvious to all but the newest members of our community that the entire look of the tank will evolve and change over time. Leaves are shifted in the current. Seed pods become covered with biofilms and start breaking down, and the water darkens.

Change. 

It's pretty much a given in the botanical-style aquarium world.

Yet, every tank sort of starts with a "baseline" look, right?

A sort of "default" set of aesthetics or parameters. In the case of most botanical-style tanks, we have a certain amount of hardscape: Driftwood, or maybe rocks, to sort of create the "framework" for the more malleable botanicals and leaves.

You can retain much of the "baseline" look by leaving the bulk of the botanicals in place, perhaps removing/replacing a few selected pieces from time to time. This gives you a sort of "established" look, and doesn't remove all of the "function", offering you a manageable option to keeping your aquarium more-or-less "fresh.

Or, you can simply allow much of the material to remain in play, and add new pieces as you see fit. A sort of actively-managed "evolutionary" process. One that not only mimics Nature in many respects (I mean, leaves and seed pods and stuff are constantly falling into, or being swept by currents into, aquatic habitats, right?), it will keep the microorganism/fungal/microcrustacean population aquarium biologically "fueled up", with a continuous supply of new food sources...just like in Nature!

The continuous replacement and supplementation of leaves and botanicals as they start to break down is a sort of process- okay, maybe even a habit- which many of us who play with botanical-style aquariums. This not only creates a continuously evolving aesthetic, it helps maintain the biological diversity and environmental parameters are held in the cherished "tight range".

Variation on a theme: I know a few "tinters" who make significant replacements of leaf and botanical items, taking out a lot of the older materials, while  replace them with fresh materials simultaneously, and this is conducted on a regular, although infrequent basis. This is similar to the Japanese aquascaping practice of "sozo haishoku" espoused by the late Takashi Amano, which is the processs of removing of as much old substrate material as possible along with the plants it contains in an aquarium, and replacing them with new materials.

It preserves the overall "composition" of the layout, but the "softscape" (the botanicals and leaves, in our case) could change dramatically over time. 

This process is very interesting to us as botanical-style aquarium fans, because, as we talked about many times before, it does sort of mimic what happens in many streams and rivers on a seasonal basis: Older materials are swept downstream as the watercourses swell, and are replaced by new ones that arrive to replace them.

And of course, in the aquarium, performing a "sozo haishoku"-type replacement of materials can significantly change the aesthetic of the aquascape because the botanicals are replaced with different ones after the previous ones are removed. It essentially means that your aquarium will significantly change over extended periods of time, likely bringing a very different look to the tank at different points in its operating "life cycle."

On the "downside" (there's always one, right?), it can also create significantly different environmental parameters when we do big "change-ups" of materials in a short span of time; the impacts on our fishes may be positive or negative, depending upon the conditions which existed prior to the move. 

Now, personally- I'm a fan of less "radical" moves, and in the interest of a good "offense", I favor regular, more measured additions to the botanical "set" in my aquariums. I tend not to remove any decomposing botanical material, unless it becomes an aesthetic detraction because it's blowing all over the place or something like that.

I while back, I did a slight "makeover" to my brackish water mangrove tank in my home office, which has accumulated a significant amount of decomposing mangrove leaf litter over the year-and-a-half that it has been in operation. I wanted to add a lighter-colored, fine sandy substrate to be more consistent with some of the brackish-water Mangrove habitats I've studied. So what did I do? Well, I literally placed the sand on top of the accumulated leaf litter detritus...

A pretty radical move for me!

And, quite honestly, it is a bit contrary to "standard" aquarium practice to pour new substrate material over decomposing materials. I mean, it impacts the biological processes occurring in the leaf litter.

And really, what happens is that, through the power of the current and the activities of my fishes, some of it rises up to the surface once again! And the water parameters have been unaffected by this move. With the understanding that we are attempting to foster multiple "levels" of life forms in our tanks, NOT removing all of the decomposing materials is a good move, IMHO. 

That was my "closest approach" to the process of "sozo haishoku", I think!

Think about food chains, microbial growth, and environmental stability in our aquariums. Fostering these requires us to embrace, rather than fear- some of these processes as they happen in our tanks. 

And of course, Nature provides examples of similar processes.

Of course, I have no illusions that open, natural aquatic systems operate differently from our aquariums, but the "concept" is essentially the same... Study this pic by our friend, Tai Strietman taken in the Amazon...Leaves being covered by sand...interesting! Nature provides a "prototype" for everything, huh? Nature's version of "sozo haishoku", I think.

Having studied many images of Amazonian igarapes, it is very obvious that, although some materials are swept away by currents, etc., many do remain in place until they fully decompose, adding to the richness and complexity of the habitat, and that we can mimic this process in our aquariums to some advantage.

And, when coupled with good husbandry technique (ie; water exchanges, population management, feeding, and use/replacement of chemical filtration media) an eye for aesthetics, patience, and a focus on creating as complete-functioning a microcosm as possible in our tanks, long-term success is virtually a given in botanical-style aquariums.

Okay, emphasis on "virtually." Nothing is a complete "given" in this hobby!

Now, far be it from me to say that one of these systems won't test your patience, diligence, and perseverance- but to those who do endure and hold steady, the rewards are there. Facing, accepting, and dealing with some of the early "aesthetic challenges" in botanical-style aquariums, like the appearance and proliferation of biofilms, fungal growth, and the breakdown of botanicals is a fundamental step in building our "skill set" in this speciality.

A mental shift.

And of course, you can take radically different starting approaches, as I've done recently- creating aquariums which "look" established right from the start, because you're immediately utilizing materials which foster rapid growth of biofilms, decompose quickly, and develop fungal/microbial populations more rapidly.

I have found this process, utilizing different combinations of soils and sediments, mixes of highly ephemeral and durable botanical materials, and a variety of wood and roots, to create some fascinating microcosms which mimic the wild aquatic habitats we love in a surprisingly realistic and highly functional manner.

And it's always changing.

As every botanical-style aquarist knows, it's simply a fact that terrestrial materials, which exposed to water, will decompose, recruit fungal and biofilm growths, and substantially impact the aquatic environment and the physical appearance of our tanks.

Exactly like in Nature!

I think it's very important to understand the reason why we create aquariums like this. What is the goal? What are we trying to accomplish? If we make an effort to understand the way the natural habitats we are enamored with truly function, it becomes way easier to manage them in a more confident manner.

Hobbyists unfamiliar with our processes and ideas will call this a mess.

We call it "natural."

I mean, when you think about it, the natural, botanical-style blackwater aquarium is sort of set up to replicate a habitat where all of this stuff is taking place already. Leaves, seed pods, etc. are more-or-less ephemeral in nature, and are constantly breaking down in these environments. Decomposition, accumulation of epiphytic growth, and colonization of various life forms is continuous.

There is a "baseline" of material which doesn't change all that much, forming the framework of you always-evolving system.

Understanding exactly what happens in these habitats is an amazing source of information which we can utilize to create truly amazing, highly functional botanical-style aquariums.

Stay focused. Stay curious. Stay diligent. Stay excited...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

 

Roads Less Travelled: A different take on "the same old thing..."

We cover a lot of ground here at Tannin.

Not just in the blackwater/botanical-style arena, but in the overall "natural" approach to creating captive aquatic ecosystems. That approach often involves embracing ideas, aesthetics, and environmental characteristics which run somewhat contrary to what we've been indoctrinated to believe are "proper" aquarium conditions.

Yeah, we've talked about this stuff before.

However, as the hobby speciality evolves more, it's important to re-visit this idea repeatedly, lest we paint ourselves into a metaphorical "corner", unwilling to try some new things for fear of "violating" what one could call "conventional" aquarium keeping ideas.

And of course, it always goes back to Nature...

A high percentage of the natural habitats from which many of our fishes hail are perhaps not even all that "conventional" by aquarium/aquascaping standards. Often, it's a sediment-filled tangle of twigs and leaves...not everyone's idea of "attractive" for aquarium purposes- but it's very, very authentic in many cases. And I think it's one of those things that you have to actually execute to appreciate.

Of course, there ARE many habitats which seem to play right into our long-held beliefs of just how a "healthy, attractive aquarium" should look. Nature offers a "prototype" for just about anything we want- if we look hard enough!

Of course, Nature also has habitats which, from an aesthetic standpoint, are remarkably "simple", yet bely a complexity of biology, geology, and environmental interdependencies. Habitats which, if  we are willing to consider replicating in our aquariums, could provide remarkable insights and "unlocks" into the lifestyles and  reproductive habits of our fishes.

I believe that experiments with alternative substrate materials, use of different wood or root-like materials, and even simple elements such as twigs, can help open up new discoveries in the aquarium hobby realm.

 

Of course, the "roads less travelled" include those habitats which consist of the flooded meadows/forests, and muddy ditches which we've talked about so much here. Again, the idea of land taken over by water yields a host of possibilities and unusual opportunities to explore the life cycles of many unique fishes. 

And of course, utilizing these materials to create more realistic approaches to habitat replication involves accepting stuff like tint and our old apparent foe, turbidity.

Our aesthetic "upbringing" in the hobby seems to push us towards "crystal clear water", regardless of whether or not it's "tinted" or not! For some reason, we blindly associate "clear" water with "cleanliness" in our aquariums, and in Nature.

Think about this: You can have absolutely horrifically toxic levels of ammonia, dissolved heavy metals, etc. in water that is "invisible", and have perfectly beautiful parameters in water that is heavily tinted and even a bit turbid.

We need to stop thinking about perfectly clear water (tinted or otherwise) as an absolute indicator of cleanliness and suitability for tropical fishes.

(FYI, WIkipedia defines "turbidity" in part as, "...the cloudiness or haziness of a fluid caused by large numbers of individual particles that are generally invisible to the naked eye, similar to smoke in air.")

That's why the aquarium "mythology" which suggested that blackwater tanks were somehow "dirtier" than "blue water" tanks used to drive me crazy. The term "blackwater" describes a number of things; however, it's not a measure of the "cleanliness" of the water in an aquarium, is it?

Nope. It sure isn't.

Color alone is not indicative of water quality for aquarium purposes, nor is "turbidity." Sure, by municipal drinking water standards, color and clarity are important, and can indicate a number of potential issues...But we're not talking about drinking water here, are we?

No, we aren't! 

There is a difference between "color" and "clarity."

Like many of the ideas about aquariums we proffer here, you'll need to make some mental shifts to enjoy this look. You'll likely face the usual criticisms from dark corners of the Internet, criticizing your use of alga and detritus-filled hardscape as "the result of lackadaisical husbandry practices" and "low standards of cleanliness..."

Been there, heard that shit.

Right?

And sure, perhaps you will have to point to videos and photos of the many wild habitats which reflect these features in order to "vindicate" yourself among your peers.

Taking the roads less travelled in the aquarium hobby is not only fascinating and educational, it's seen as a bit "rebellious", so you'll need to have a thick skin. Perhaps you'll have to swallow your pride and eat some shit now and again if your experiment doesn't quite live up to your expectations...

Surprisingly, you'll find that most of your experiments with these unique types of habitats will not only meet your expectations- they'll often exceed them significantly!

 

Despite what the "experts" tell you.

The beauty of taking the "roads less travelled" in the aquarium hobby is that you'll almost always gain something from the journey- be it insights into a unique habitat you've been drooling over, or success with fishes that you've previously been stymied by.

Embrace the unusual.

You never know where it might take you.

Stay observant. Stay creative. Stay bold. Stay inspired...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics