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The continuing saga of my semi-salty obsession...
Like many of you, I find it hard to stick to just one obsession in the aquairum hobby. As you probably know by now, I have had a long term love affair with the brackish water habitats of the tropical world.
There are a lot of misconceptions about brackish water aquairums floating around out there. And the hobby interpretation of brackish water habitats has impacted not only the technique, but the aesthetic interpretation of these habitats as well.
Although there is a good amount of information on brackish-water habitats from which brackish water fishes come, in the hobby, (with the rare exception of some biotope enthusiasts) we've sort of distilled brackish water aquarium aesthetics down to white aragonite sand, a few rocks, and maybe some hardy plants...and it's been mired in that aesthetic hell for decades.
And then there is that "perception" thing...
I think that the perception among many aquarium hobbyists was that brackish is more tricky to keep than freshwater, and easier than a reef tank, yet offers little in the way of excitement on first glance. I mean, the fish selection and availability has not been exactly stellar, with many dealers hesitant to stock brackish fishes for simple lack of demand and interest.
And quite frankly, many fishes that have been perceived to be "brackish" by hobbyists are either actually from pure freshwater habitats (I'm thinking about certain Glassfish and some Rainbows), or have some populations that are from brackish (which are seldom imported).
And then there are those fishes, like Mollies. which are Euryhaline (capable of tolerating a wide range of salt concentrations), with the majority being found in pure freshwater. Salt, in many cases, is simply used for health purposes.
(P. sphenops by Hugo Torres. Used under CC by 2.5 es)
Oh, and I can't even begin to tell you the challenge I went through to source a group of Bumblebee Gobies that were actually collected from a brackish water habitat! And even then, the species ID on mine is not 100%; with a few hobbyists insisting that mine are a pure freshwater species...and of course, when I do the research, I discovered that there are populations from both pure fresh AND brackish,,,Arrghhh!
One of the biggest differences between the botanical-style approach to brackish aquariums and the more traditional approach of "rock and crushed coral/oyester shell, etc." approach is that there are a variety of natural collateral benefits to the physical environment that you can realize by having materials like mangrove root sections, branches and leaves in the water.
Use of mangrove roots, branches, and leaves virtually assures that you're going to be imparting tannins into your aquarium water. The tannins, of course, not only add an appealing visual "tint" to the water, they provide other benefits as well. In this instance, tannins realized from the mangrove wood and leaves will react with calcium and other alkaline compounds to produce the insoluble salt, calcium tannate. The by-product of this reaction is the releasing of calcium and other ions into the water, which serve to buffer the pH in the aquarium.
So, yeah, oddly, having a bunch of wood and leaves in your tank will actually create a sort of stability that benefits your tank in ways you may not have considered!
Of course, that's just a water chemistry benefit. There are many biological benefits to this approach, as we've discussed before.
The hardest thing we've had to do- and continue to do- is to change the perception among hobbyists that brackish water biotopes are stark white sandy places with a few rocks, and super clean water. Actually, many brackish water estuaries and lagoons are way different than we've portrayed them in our aquariums over the years.
Mud, leaf litter...and mangroves.
They are often turbid, brown-tinted waters, with muddy, rich bottoms covered with decomposing leaves, lots of micro and macro algae, some plants, and often dominated by Palms and Mangroves.
Sometimes, you'll find amazing mangrove growth in blackwater ecosystems, more reminiscent of the types of habitats we're used to replicate in our aquariums!
Yet, the aquairum world has its quirks...and opinions- about how things should be...
Over the years, I've heard the "warnings" from people on attempting to replicate this habitat in the aquarium:
"It won't work in a brackish tank! It will create anaerobic conditions! Too much nutrient! Ionic imbalance...Tinted water means dirty!"
Etcetera...
Man, this sounds oddly familiar, doesn't it?
A lot of naysaying, without a lot of actually trying. "Regurgitation Syndrome" rears its ugly head again.
And, yes, the by-product of our approach is that it just happens to have a different aesthetic, too, by virtue of the materials we work with. Less emphasis on "sterile" white sand and crystal-clear water, and more emphasis on a functional representation of a tropical, brackish water ecosystem: Muddy, nutrient-rich substrate, filled with decomposing mangrove leaves, and stained a bit from tannins. Beautiful in a very different, yet oddly compelling way.
It's an evolution- a step forward out of the artificially-induced restraints of "this is how it's always been done"- another exploration into what the natural environment is REALLY like- and understanding, embracing and appreciating its aesthetics, functionality, and richness.
"Richness." A good word. actually.
The bottoms of this type of habitat- and the aquairums which represent it-are covered with a thin layer of leaf litter. Specifically, mangrove leaf litter. This not only provides an aesthetically interesting substrate- it offers functional benefits as well. Like, imparting minerals, trace elements, and organic acids to the water.
Mangrove leaf litter, like its freshwater counterpart, is the literal "base" for developing our brackish-water aquarium "food chain", from which microbial, fungal, and crustacean growth will benefit.
And of course, these leaves will impart some tannins into the water, just as any of our other leaves will!
Fungi and bacteria in brackish and saltwater mangrove ecosystems help facilitate the decomposition of mangrove material, just like in their pure freshwater counterparts. Interestingly, in scientific surveys, it's been determined that bacterial counts are generally higher on attached mangrove leaves than they are on freshly-fallen leaf litter, and this is kind of interesting, because ecologists feel that attached, undamaged mangroves leaves don't release much tannin, which, as we know might have some anti-bacterial properties. However, it's also been found that materials like humic acid, which are abundant in the mangroves, stimulate phytoplankton growth there.
Interesting, right?
The leaves of mangroves, as they break down, become subject to both leaching of the compounds in their tissues, as well as microbial breakdown. Compounds like potassium and carbohydrates are commonly leached quickly, followed by tannins. Fungi are the "first responders" to leaf drop in mangrove communities, followed by bacteria, which serve to break down the leaves further.
So, in summary, you have a very active microbial community in a brackish water aquarium.
The management of a brackish tank is really surprisingly similar to that of a typical blackwater aquarium. The biggest difference is the salt and perhaps a greater interest in a rich substrate. Now, one parameter that hobbyists will argue about is specific gravity. I tend to favor one of two specific gravities in my brackish tanks: 1.005 or 1.010 I've changed over the past few years, having tried all types of ranges, from as low as 1.004 to 1.008. Finally, I settled on 1.010, because it is a sort of "sweet spot" that many of the brackish water fishes which I am interested in (gobies, rainbow fishes, mollies, etc.) seem to fare quite well at this slightly higher S.G.
And the mangroves don't seem to have any problem with that, either!
Oh, let's talk about mangroves and detritus again...
One of the first decisions I made when I started to apply botanical-style aquarium "methodology" to brackish was to NOT siphon out the "organic debris/detritus" (total "catch-all" phrase, huh?) that accumulate during the normal course of existence of any aquarium. My rationale was that, the bulk of this material was fish waste and broken down leaves and botanicals, as opposed to uneaten food and such.
My whole point of the brackish water/Mangrove aquarium "exercise " is to create a simulation of the organic-heavy, exceedingly rich substrates in which they are found, while still creating a manageable closed system that doesn't turn into a cesspool!
I kind of figured that I don't overfeed. I don't over-stock, and I perform regular water exchanges on a weekly basis. I employ practices which assure as much environmental consistency as possible. And yeah, the physical environment in my brackish water mangrove tanks have a very slight amount of fine organic debris/detritus on the substate.
I've purposely siphoned the stuff out before, and by crude estimation, I'd say that well over 80% of what there actually is there, accumulating on the substrate, is the aforementioned botanicals and leaves In a decomposed state.
A sort of "mulch", if you will. I do see Nerites snails and some of the fishes foraging in this material from time to time... but it's not all that noticeable unless you look really carefully.
I think these replicate, to some extent, the types of rich substrates in which mangroves grow and thrive. If you recall from my previous ramblings about this approach, we long ago decided to abandon "clean white sand" in favor if a "compound" of fairly rich substrate materials, including "marine biodsediment" , soils, and aragonitic sand, and occasionally, a more coarse aragonite for the "top-dressing" of sorts.
We've been using this successfully for years, and it'll soon be released under the name, NatureBase "Mangal" on our site. We think you'll love it, too!
The reason for this selection of "rich" substrate materials back in the day was twofold:
First, I wanted to create a functional mud-like substrate that would facilitate both denitrification and the ability to provide a habitat for minute life forms. I felt that this would also be a more natural setting for a brackish water aquarium. I knew that mangroves would love it. My original intent, years ago, was to plant some Cryptocoryne ciliata, a species well-known for its ability to adapt to a low salinity brackish-water environment in my tanks.
This plan was ultimately abandoned when I decided to increase the specific gravity of the aquarium to 1.010, considerably higher than the documented SG at which this plant is known to survive (typically 1.002-1.005). Plus, it was a pain in the ass to find that damn Crypt!
And mangroves are way cooler, anyways.
There is a certain faith you need to have in employing such a rich substrate in a aquarium even before anything is physically rooted in it, As you know by now, mangrove propagules put out roots whenever they're damn ready, and then- and only then, do the roots make contact with the substrate. You can't shove a rootless propagule into the sand and expect it to sprout. I knew from a lot of time playing with mangroves in reef systems that his process takes many months, of course, given the depth of the tank.
Patience is mandatory.
If you ARE patient, you'll be rewarded. It'll take months, but your mangroves will do what they do in Nature: They put down prop roots, and grow many leaves, some of which dry up and fall...and of course, we do allow the leaves to accumulate on the bottom, just like in the natural habitats we are attempting to replicate to a certain extent.
Mangrove ecosystems are remarkably complex, diverse systems which process nutrients by decomposing and utilizing organic matter. Many organisms, like fungi, bacteria- even sponges, work together to utilize the vast food resources produced in these habitats. And larger creatures, like crabs, amphipods, etc., break apart leaf bits, providing a "gross dismantling" service that contributes to decomposition of these materials, leading to detritus.
Sweet.
Yeah, if you want to move beyond the absurd, hyper-santized hobby version of a brackish water aquarium, you need to understand how these ecosystems work, make some "mental shifts" to accept the appearance, the challenges, and the obligation to observe, test, and maintain these systems over the long haul. And you need to deploy, as with anything we do- a shit-ton of patience.
Up for it?
You can do this. Easily.
Get to it. You can contribute a lot to the ever-evolving world of the botanical-style brackish water aquarium! Join us. We're there waiting for you...at that "delta of the intersection between science and art..."
Stay inspired. Stay curious. Stay patient. Stay brave. Stay resourceful...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquatics
In-between days...
There is a phenomenon that has arisen in the past decade or so: We want to only share only our ultimate-our very best stuff-on social media. We flex. We primp and preen and...
I'll come right out and say it: That sucks. It sucks shit.
"Why, Scott?"
Because, all of the things that we do- especially in an up-and-coming hobby speciality like the botanical-style aquarium movement- are important, special- and inspiring!
All of it.
Even the stuff that that we think is not so good. Or, not fully-fleshed-out just yet.
It's all good. It's all important. Because what you may think is an undeveloped idea could very well be the spark- the inspiration- for someone else who may have been "stuck", and was just waiting for the right idea to come around.
We have to overcome this phobia that we have collectively developed which says, "I can only share my best work!"
Why?
Because people might see that your tank had to start somewhere? Because you might have some algae in there?
Because you haven't yet arrived at the final wood configuration? Don't have all of the leaf litter in place?
For every excuse, I can think of several reasons why you should share.
Everything.
Even ideas that I thought were a bit "out there", or "not quite ready to show the world" based on the idiotic standards we in the aquarium community have set for ourselves, I shared, and continue to share.
Because to not share not only perpetuates this absurdity, it glorifies the finished product over the process- the journey to get there. And where exactly is "there?"
When is an aquairum "finished", anyways?
I don't think a tank ever is "finished." Especially not the types we play with.
One of the interesting things I've found over the years about botanical-style natural aquariums is that they evolve over time. Sure, you can set 'em up to look great from the start, and place everything meticulously- but the reality is, Nature will dictate not only where things end up- but in what condition. Currents and fishes can move stuff. Fungi and bacteria can break down the leaves and botanicals, etc.
I was wondering if it had to do with some inherent impatience that we have as aquarists- or perhaps as humans in general-a desire to see the "finished product" as soon as possible; something like that. And there is nothing at all wrong with that, I suppose. I just kind of wonder what the big rush is? I guess, when we view an aquarium in the same context as a home improvement project, meal preparation, or algebra test, I can see how rapid "completion" would take on a greater significance!
Yet, in that rush, we miss the "in-between days." Those seemingly mundane periods when your idea is blossoming, developing. Evolving.
At home right now, I am in the middle of a big remodeling project, so all of my larger aquariums- and the bulk of my extensive collection of aquairum gear and gadgets and stuff- are in storage. All I have to work with at home is a shelf full of nano tanks. And I tinker with them. I tweak. I make do. All the time. And none of them- not one- is what the hobby would consider "insta-ready!"
And I couldn't give two fucks.
Because they are developing and evolving ideas. Testbeds for future tanks. temporary features, "gerry-rigged" and equipped differently than any "permanent" tank I'd do. And, quite honestly, I've never had more fun with tanks than I am now. My little collection of nano tanks in a near-empty home office is providing me tremendous pleasure, sanity, and the ability to iterate, evolve, and share!
Honestly, it doesn't matter if they're not "perfect" by someone else's standards- or even my own. They're interesting, and I learn from them daily. So I share, as these little tanks go through their motions and blossom.
Things change regularly.
I can't think of how many tanks I've started where the finished product bore little resemblance to how it looked in the early days.
On the other hand, if you look at an aquarium as you would a garden- an organic, living, evolving, growingentity- then the need to see the thing "finished" becomes much less important. Suddenly, much like a "road trip", the destination becomes less important than the journey. It's about the experiences gleaned along the way. Enjoyment of the developments, the process. In the botanical-style aquarium, it's truly about a dynamic and ever-changing system.
Every stage holds fascination.
Many of my favorite tanks that I've ever done simply started out as an idea- an itch I had to scratch, with no intention of ever making it "The Tank" of my dreams...Yet, sometimes, that;'s kind of what you end top with, isn't it?
IS there even a "finish line" to an aquarium?
Part of the pleasure is working with nature; being challenged by her.. adjusting, pivoting. And that's what makes stuff fun! I mean, when there is nothing more to do but change water, tweak a few gadgets, and feed, is it still an enjoyable hobby? Is THAT a hobby in and of itself?
I suppose, but...
Have you EVER gotten a tank to that stage? Where you're simply observing it and nothing else? What's that like?
Sure, the reality is that an aquatic display is not a static entity, and will continue to encompass life, death, and everything in between for as long as it's in existence. Yet, what is it that really happens in a truly "mature" aquarium?
There might be some competition between fishes, plants, or corals that results in one or more species dominating all of the rest. Maybe. Or, does diversity continue to win, with lots of different life forms eaking out an existence in your artificial microcosm, just as they have managed to do for eons in Nature?
We don't have all of the answers.
And that's okay. However, we should enjoy those times when our tanks are doing their thing...evolving...
And we should share them. Form sterile, disorganized beginning to what we feel is their "best state"- and everything in between.
Yeah, those "in-between" days- those are the days I live for.
Share. Always.
Stay brave. Stay patient. Stay creative. Stay generous. Stay observant. Stay entranced...
And Stay Wet.
Realizations, affirmations, interpretations, and the way I create aquariums
The other day, someone gave me an incredible compliment. They said I was one of their favorite aquascapers. He wanted to know what my "secret" was, and what advice I could offer to "be a great scaper".
I was like, "Huh?"
Well, I suppose it's a compliment. Well, sure, it's flattering that someone thinks that highly of what I do. I'm honored!
But, "aquascaper?" WTF?
I've been called a lot of stuff by fellow hobbyists: "Rebel", "reckless provocateur", "twig pusher", "foolhardy", "The Podfather", "Leaf lover", "dickhead", etc. But never "aquascsaper."
Interestingly, I was actually sort of put off for a second by the whole "aquascsaper" moniker, because I don't do "aquascaping" in the "traditional sense." I mean, I see my self as a "function first" kind of guy, who's tanks happen look the way they do because they embrace aspects of Nature which most aquarists historically haven't found particularly attractive. Now, maybe I put a bit of artistic liberty into them, but that's it. However, If you have made the mental shifts to find stuff like decomposing leaves, brown water, detritus, and biofilms attractive and alluring, then I suppose that makes some sense!
Yet, my work is not intended to be primarily "artistic" or aesthetically-focused, really. Rather, it's an interpretation of the form and function of the natural world. I want to inspire others to look at the way natural aquatic habitats evolve and function, and try to replicate as many of the functional aspects of them as possible. If the tank just happens to look interesting- well, that's a sort of collateral benefit, right?
Well, shit- is that "aquascaping?"
I dunno. Maybe?
(Next time I get George and Johnny are on the podcast, that's going to be a sick topic!)
I guess I would have felt better if the guy said I was his "favorite experimental aquarist" or something less superficial.
Shit, that probably sounds pretentious, huh?
I mean, I see botanical-style aquariums as more of an approach than a "style", really. Damn it- I had to use the freakin' term "style" in the descriptor. That's what must have done it! I fucked it up from day one. Damn.
I admit, I've never really been much of an "aquascaper." You know- those amazing hobbyists who can take a few rocks and a piece or two of wood and turn them into some sort of amazing design. And I made peace with that decades ago! I greatly admire those true artists who can employ all sorts of technique, color-coordination, and ratio and such snd come up with some incredible stuff with seeming ease.
They're rad.
On the other hand, I look at a lot of aquascaping work, admire the effort and talent and such, and then get this feeling in my gut that I can't always explain. Well, I can, but it's not always...nice. Like, I look at a lot of modern 'scapes that the aquarium world rightly drools over, and just kind of...yawn.
Ouch, I'm sounding like a proper asshole, I know.
No! That's not what I'm trying to sound like...
Seriously, it's not that I think their work is shitty or something...I just find the "styles" of many of the beautiful tanks out there just a bit..boring. Or, should I say- not my taste. Not the work I want to do...even if I had a fraction of the talent most of these people do.
It's just not "me."
Yeah, that's better.
It's weird, I do like certain planted tanks that just blow me away. Our friend, George Farmer, does amazing planted 'scapes which I would happily have in my own home if I had the talent. His work tempts me daily. I love the work of our own Johnny Ciotti- a guy who was trained as a classic "Nature Aquarium Style" 'scaper, yet, a true artist who can take botanical elements and create stunning botanical-style aquariums with ease. Jeff Sense of Aquarium Design Group is another person who can work with just about any "media" you give him- rocks, wood, plants- and crank out something that is unmistakingly original, dynamic, and gorgeous.
I'll never have a fraction of the talent those guys have. And I'm perfectly okay with that. I'm comfortable in my own skin. And it's largely because, a long time ago, I found what I truly love, and work with that.
Nature, and Her many ecological niches and features, provides an endless array of habitats to recreate in the home aquarium. And my "POV" has always been to look at these niches, figure out how and why they formed, and why they look the way that they do. By researching the processes which helped create the habitat, I'm challenged to create an aquarium which attempts to replicate both the form and the function of it.
That's where I play.
As Johnny calls, it, I play at, "The Delta at the intersection between science and art.”
I like it here.
This "not quite a biotope aquarium" and "not quite an artistic aquascape" thing is the perfect "sweet spot" for my interest, attention, and skills. And I think it's the place where I can be most useful to the hobby. Biotope-inspired, I suppose. A more forgiving, easygoing "style" which places function over aesthetics, yet somehow always leads to something that I find aesthetically pleasing in the end.
It's a strange, yet wonderful place, where I've made the many "mental shifts" that allow me to enjoy the beauty and elegance of stuff like decomposing leaves, sediment, biofilms, fungal growths, random aggregations of leaves, etc. A place where much of the attraction is because the aquariums I create are designed to embrace a certain function, which, as I'm finding, gives them a certain "vibe" that the aquarium world is finally starting to see as attractive and aesthetically pleasing.
It's an interesting time. And a lot of hobbyists way more talented than me are entering the game, and dazzling with their interpretations of these unique niche aquatic habitats. It's damn exciting.
Advice?
Oh, well, the usual, right? Listen to your OWN voice. Don't try to duplicate my work. Look to Nature and try to channel Her stuff. Go further than just looking at a pretty picture. Consider the ecology, geology, and other impacts upon the habitat you're interested in replicating, and think about how they influenced its formation and control its function.
When you start adding botanicals and stuff to your tank, think about why they would accumulate where they do. Consider what role they play for the fishes which live in the habitat. Don't worry about "Golden Ratio" or "color coordination" at all. Rather, worry about how you can facilitate biofilm and fungal growth, foster a place for fishes to forage, and encourage detritus accumulation like you see in Nature.
Make the mental shifts to understand why these things are present, what they do, and how they are, indeed, beautiful and elegant creations which we should be honored to have in our aquariums!
And, if the water turns a beautiful golden brown, the fishes are thriving, and the tank just happens to please you- and inspire others- in the process?
Huge win.
For you. For the hobby. For your fishes. For Nature.
Stay unique. Stay bold. Stay studious. Stay enthralled. Stay curious...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquatics
It's okay to question things...
There is a certain "mental buy-in" that we all have to make when we start a botanical-style aquarium. A certain willingness to try different things, accept different aesthetics, and to willingly cede a little control to Nature.
It's a fundamental part of what we do. An acceptance that what we have been told for generations is the "correct" way to do stuff in the hobby may not be the ONLY way- or for that matter, the best way. Once we overcome our natural fears and resistance to things which we've been told are "undesirable", "unwise", or even "bad", the barriers start breaking down between what we know, and where we want to be.
Now, sure, even with this sort of "rebellious" mindset, you still have to follow the basic rules and tenants of aquarium husbandry and discipline. Just because we're playing with a different system and embracing a different look and function in our tanks doesn't mean that you can "blow off" every husbandry principle we've developed in the hobby for the past century. You can't try to circumvent natural processes or "hack" the basics of stocking; stuff like that.
If you do, it's likely that bad shit will happen.
Nature can be a rather unforgiving place.
We've discussed this many times, in regards to our hobby. Like, how if you flaunt Nature and blow off her "rules" and proceed forward without due regard for her processes, you'll get your ass handed to you. We've seen it tens of thousands of times over the years in this hobby; we'll likely see it thousands of times more in the future, too.
And it's not all bad, really.
Sometimes, the lessons learned from these misadventures- and the surprisingly easy ways to resolve them- can yield some practical, transformative results!
Yes.
It's not always about doing radical stuff, mind you. Sometimes, it's about NOT doing stuff.
And, quite frankly, I've been surprised over the decades by just how many so-called "problems" can be solved in aquariums by simply NOT doing some radical moves. In fact, I've been surprised by how many things that we label as "problems" aren't really problems!
For example, by enduring what we feel are the "ugly" phases of a tank, by waiting out the "nasty biofilm stage" and understanding/appreciating them, by persevering in an algal bloom (after educating oneself as to what caused it to happen in the first place), etc. rather than adding all kinds of disruptive chemicals, constantly scraping it out, etc. Knowing that these processes- decomposition, colonization, etc.- are fundamental to Nature- snd the aquarium.
Adjusting our tolerances to how much we can handle, and for how long. And assessing what, if any, long-term impact there will be by either taking action or simply waiting it out.
Now sure, some stuff needs immediate action: Disease outbreaks, heater malfunctions, aggressive fishes, etc. Other things require something not every hobbyists has in his or her "toolkit"- the ability to look beyond the immediate and understand what could have caused the situation, and to understand that the simple passage of time is a great "fix" for many things.
Patience.
And a little faith.
That's really important.
A case in point is some of the early experiments with my "Urban Igapo" idea that I've shared with you over the past couple of years. This was stuff that I had been working on for years before that, and it reached the point where I just taught myself to expect certain things to happen, and to understand that they almost always will pass or change over time if I leave things alone.
It was about looking at things differently and not letting my biases or the 'burden" of past experiences and "rules" taint my outlook...Knowing that, just because something is far different than what we're used to, it's not "bad."
For example, the substrate formulations I've developed for "Nature Base Igapo" and "Nature Base Varzea", btw) were designed to be part of a "process"- perhaps even a "technique", of taking a tank through various phases: A dry "terrestrial phase", then a gradual inundation period, then a fully aquatic phase, and then a drying phase again. It's a different way of doing a tank- and a different set of characteristics and expectations accompany it.
And, as a result of accepting the way it behaved and understanding that this was part of the "process", I knew exactly what to expect-The good, the bad, and the ugly. And it has tempered my tolerances and ideas for how to use it accordingly.Made it easier to explain to you- the consumer, what this stuff will do, and how- despite the "unorthodox" appearances it creates- it performs remarkably. I've been very confident in releasing these sedimented substrate formulations for sale, because we've used the stuff repeatedly. For a long time.
If you ask me about NatureBase sedimented substrates, I'll tell you that the most important thing you'll need when you use the stuff is understanding... A mental "buy-in" to a process which goes against most of what we expect from aquarium products. That doesn't come with a bag of dirt, no matter how col the packaging is- trust me.
When you initially wet a substrate consisting of soil, clays, and sediments, you realize that you're going to get horrifically turbid, cloudy water.
It can last for a week or more.
And that's okay..
Because that's what happens in Nature, too.
Because you need to go into working with this material understanding that it's not intended to look or function like a normal aquarium sand. That's not what it's about. You don't rinse the stuff. You don't fill the tank 100% from day one out of the package. I mean, you could. A lot of our customers DO! And they're delighted with it. Because they know whet they're getting into when they do!
It involves process. Patience. And the passage of time.
Typically, you gradually, slowly saturate it, sprout terrestrial plant seeds, and then begin a slow process of raising the water level. You don't direct filter returns into it (if you're using one at all), or it will make the water even cloudier! At this phase, you're likely not to even use it on a large tank, because it's easier to control in a smaller tank.
Hell, you're simply not going to use the stuff to create a "typical" aquarium in the first place! Yet, that's what makes the process so damn fun! It's so important to understand the "how and why's" of specialized aquariums- and what to expect from them- when we embark on these journeys.
And there are always unknowns when you go against the grain in the aquarium hobby... And outcomes you may never have expected. And that's not a bad thing!
The point of discussing this concept and our expertness with NatureBase is that it's an example of a "process" that requires not only a different outlook, but a mental "buy-in" to a system of doing things for a reason. Sure, you could skirt the "rules", fill a tank with water 100% from day one, and have a "supercloud" of sediments and mud for untold weeks or months. Nature will simply adjust the initial outcome. And it's perfectly okay to do that.
Either you'll "fix" it somehow, or you'll leave it alone and let Nature "sort it out" herself! I recommend that you do.
Either way, Nature eventually sorts it out.
Again, this mindset of "zen-like patience" and confidence in Nature "figuring shit out" is but one way of looking at and managing things- and it's not for everyone. Control freaks and obsessive "tinkerers" need not apply.
And, quite honestly, it's not really necessary all the time. The "workaround" is to understand what you're doing, what could happen, WHY it happens, and what the upside/downside of rapidly "correcting it" can be. The key, typically, as with most things in the aquarium world, is to simply be patient.
Despite our best efforts to "fix" stuff- Nature almost always "sorts it out"- and does it way better than we can. She's been doing it for eons!
A great example of this? Think about the bane of most hobbyists' existence- So-called "nuisance algae."
It's a "nuisance" to us because it looks like shit. It derails our dreams of a pristine aquarium filled with spotless plants, rocks, coral, etc. Despite all of the knowledge we have about algae being fundamental for life on earth, it bothers the shit out of us because it looks "bad."
And collectively as hobbyists, we freak the fuck out about it when it appears. We panic; do stupid things to get rid of it as quickly as possible. We address its appearance in our tanks. Seldom do we make the effort to understand why it appeared in the first place and to address the circumstances which caused it. And of course, in our haste to rid our tanks of it, we often fail to take into account how it actually grows. And, perhaps, what its actual benefits are...
Algae will ultimately exhaust the available excess nutrients which caused it to appear in the first place, if you take steps to eliminate "re-supplying" them, and if you wait for it to literally "run its course" after these issues have been addressed.
We've seen this in the reef aquarium world for a generation now. It almost always passes- once we address the root cause and allow it to play out on Nature's time frame.
Of course, as hobbyists, we want stuff to happen fast, so hundreds of products, ranging from additives to filter media, and exotic techniques, such as dosing chemicals, etc. have been developed to destroy algae. We throw lots of money and product at this "problem", when the real key would have been to address what causes it in the first place, and to work with that.
And yeah, the irony is that algae is the basis of all life. In a reef tank (or freshwater tank) it's a necessary component of the ecosystem. And reefers will often choose the quick fix, to eradicate it instead of looking at the typical root causes- low quality source water (which would require investing in an RO/DI unit to solve), excess nutrients caused by overfeeding/overcrowding, or poor husbandry (all of which need to be addressed to be successful in the hobby, always...), or simply the influx of a large quantity of life forms (like fresh "live rock", corals, fishes, etc...) into a brand new tank with insufficient biological nutrient export mechanisms evolve to handle it.
And often, a "quick kill" upsets the biological balance of the tank, throwing it into a further round of chaos which takes...longer to sort itself out! Works the same in botanical-style aquariums as well.
Once these things are understood, and the root causes addressed, the best and most successful way to resolve the algae issue long-term is often to simply be patient and wait it out.
Wait for Nature to adjust on her terms. On her time frame.
She seeks a balance.
Rapid, dramatic environmental shifts are never a good thing for any type of aquarium, and a system like we run, with lots of organic material present, is just as susceptible to "insults" from big, poorly thought-out moves as any other. Perhaps even more, because by its very nature, our style of aquarium is based upon lots of natural materials which impact the environment on multiple fronts.
We need to remember this.
We need to observe our systems keenly- test when we can, and always apply common sense to any move we make.
With botanical-style aquariums, the key here is often that "cadence"- understanding that the material we add needs to be added-or replaced, if you want- at a pace that makes sense for your specific system- is supremely important. Those of us who have been maintaining these types of tanks for some time now really get this, and have a great "feel" for how our tanks run in this fashion.
It's a dance. An art form. A process, and an evolution. Sometimes seemingly chaotic, other times maddeningly slow. Always alluring. Always deferring to Nature...
And it's all held together by you- the aquarist, applying as much emotion as you do procedure- all done in the proper time. Questioning things when we're unsure, snd accepting things when we feel it's right...or, "just because."
This is a huge point; something which everyone who works with botanical-style aquariums comes to know and usually accept.
We need to have an attitude which doesn't allow us to panic; to make fast, short-term moves in favor of longer-term outcomes. To accept things that seem uncomfortable. To question what we've been told is the "ONLY" way to do stuff. It's a very different philosophy. You need to accept different aesthetics. You need flexibility. You may even have to accept short-term losses for a greater long-term good.
You need to have faith in Nature.
She won't steer you wrong. Unless you try to best Her.
Stay patient. Stay open-minded. Stay brave. Stay curious. Stay observant...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquatics
Changing your water- and your mindset.
One of the interesting things about our botanical-style aquariums is that, when we embrace natural processes, the aquariums function- and LOOK more natural, too. Now, it seems kind of funny to say this, but it's true.
When we consider the influences which act upon our aquariums, the idea makes more sense.
Check out underwater videos and photos of environments such as the flooded forests and streams of the Amazonian region, and you'll see that your botanical-style aquarium is a much closer aesthetic approximation of Nature than almost any other type of system you've worked with before. Because of the way it's composed and maintained.
This is a significant thing, really.
And, to your comfort, you'll find that these aquariums, loaded with leaves and botanical materials though they may be, are as biologically stable as any other if you follow regular maintenance- and common sense. This is a significant thing. We have to get it out of our heads that the "look" of our tanks, in terms of the tinted water, biofilms and fungal growths, etc., does not imply that they are somehow "dirtier" than other types of aquarium systems.
So, what's the most important maintenance practice that we can employ for our botanical-style aquariums?
(No surprise here) WATER EXCHANGES!!
So. what’s a good water changing regimen?
I’d love to see you employ a 10% exchange per week...It’s what I’ve used for decades, and it’s served me- and my animals- very well! Easier still would be to employ two 5% water exchanges twice weekly. Way easier than you think, and has the added advantage of keeping you in intimate contact with your tank on a very frequent basis. And, when you’re changing water, you could easily complete a few other regular maintenance tasks at the same time with a minimum of extra time and effort.
Regardless of how frequently you change your water, just do it consistently. In fact, I’ll humbly borrow a tag line from Nike to tell you to “Just do it...”
And of course, this inevitably leads to the topic of siphoning. How much "stuff" do you remove? Doesn't it disturb the leaf litter/botanical bed?And SHOULD you even remove anything from this area?
I'm going to argue that we shouldn't!
Well, here's why I feel that you don't really want to go crazy and siphon out all of the "stuff" in your leaf litter/botanical bed. It's about the diverse life forms we foster in these beds. Much like in Nature, leaf and botanical beds host an enormous population of fauna, ranging from fungal growth to other microorganisms, and small crustaceans.
These organisms, as we've discussed repeatedly, not only form a part of the "food chain" within our captive ecosystems- they also offer huge benefits to the aquarium as a means to process and export nutrients from within the botanical-style aquarium.
When we disturb this layer of materials with aggressive siphoning and stirring, and remove decomposing leaves and detritus, not only are we invading the "homes" of these organisms, we are potentially removing their food sources as well, and disrupting the very processes which keep our systems stable and biologically viable for extended periods of time. The entire botanical-style aquarium is a living, breathing entity, in which a variety of organisms are dependent upon-and support- each other.
Now, during water exchanges, it's inevitable that some stuff gets shifted around.
And that's not necessarily a bad thing. Don't get stressed if you stir some stuff up. Your tank will be fine.
Think about the natural leaf litter beds, and the processes which influence their composition, structure and resilience. Many litter beds are long-term static features in their natural habitats. Almost like reefs in the ocean, actually. Yet, there is a fair amount of material being shifted around constantly by current, rain, flooding, and the activities of fishes.
Yeah, stuff does get disturbed and redistributed.
The organisms which reside in these systems deal with these dynamics effectively. They have for eons.
The benthic microfauna which our fishes tend to feed on also are affected by this phenomenon, and as mentioned above, the fishes tend to "follow the food", making this a case of the fishes learning (?) to adapt to a changing environment.
And perhaps...maybe...the idea of fishes sort of having to constantly adjust to a changing physical (note I didn't say "chemical") environment could be some sort of "trigger", hidden deep in their genetic code, that perhaps stimulates overall health, immunity or spawning?
Something in their "programing" that says, "You're at home..." Triggering specific adaptive behaviors?
I find this possibility fascinating, because we can learn more about our fishes' behaviors, and create really interesting habitats for them simply by adding botanicals to our aquariums and allowing them to "do their own thing"- to break apart as they decompose, move about as we change water or conduct maintenance activities, or add new pieces from time to time.
Again, much like Nature.
So, yes- the maintenance practice of water exchanges which we employ in our aquariums not only benefits our fishes in well-documented ways- it also replicates the processes which occur in Nature on a most realistic level.
Nothing we've mentioned here is earth-shattering or "revolutionary", from an aquarium husbandry standpoint. However, seeing that for many hobbyists, this is their first experience at managing a botanical-style blackwater aquarium, and with tons of conflicting information out there discussing concepts like breaking down a tank after a few months, I think it's not a bad idea to review this sort of stuff from time to time!
In natural, botanical-style aquariums, seldom are big moves or corrections required. Rather, it's really a combination of little things, done consistently over time, which will see your aquarium thrive in the long run. Like water changes.
It's about adopting a different way of looking at things. It's about seeing our aquariums as diverse, dynamic, interdependent microcosms, in which all sorts of influences exerted upon them help drive growth, health- and change.
Mental shifts, once again.
That's the name of the game.
Today's simple thought.
Stay consistent. Stay observant. Stay diligent. Stay informed...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquatics
The continuing saga of my search for a blackwater livebearer: Episode III: A new Chance
Not a long time ago, in a column right here, I shared with you my desire to find a livebearing fish species which is commonly found in a blackwater habitat. It's been an interesting saga, filled with twist and turns, punctuated by my lack of recent direct, personal experience with wild livebearers, yet, buoyed by findings from research papers and ideas from fellow hobbyists.
If you recall, in our last review of this topic, we did stumble upon a few interesting candidates.
Most of them, such as the genus Fluviphylax, which, as I said before, "contains five described species, not one of which anyone who is not a native fisherman, lifetime member of the American Livebearer Association, or doesn't have the letters "PhD" after his/her name, has even heard of- let alone seen! These are rather interesting fishes, distinguished by really large (relative to their body size), almost "creepy-looking" eyes, the absence of a gonopodium in males, and the usual complete lack of color seemingly common to pretty much every obscure fish in the world..."
Shit, that felt good to quote my own article! And I think I was accurate! 😎
(A genuine candidate. Fluviphylax shows it's true "colors"-or lack thereof. Image by Clinton and Charles Robertson, used under CC BY 2.)
I'll wager that this fish will never be found anywhere in the hobby, unless it's by total accident- the product of "by-catch" by commercial fishers looking for something a hell of a lot more viable in the trade!
This species looks an awful lot like a killifish to me!. And, they're apparently endemic to the Amazon and Orinoco region, including habitats like lakes, swamps, and "floating meadows", any and all of which could be filled with tannin-stained blackwater, right? As I pointed out before, Fluviphylax obscurum, which drew me in from the start- is listed as having its native range being the "Upper Rio Negro basin!"
That's intriguing...
But the trail went cold for a bit, as I moved on to other stuff...
BACK IN THE HUNT.
Fast forward to 2021.
I recently received my long-awaited copy of "Fishes of the Orinoco in The Wild" by our friend, Ivan Mikolji (NOTE TO READERS: GET THIS BOOK! PERIOD. JUST GET IT- you'll thank me.), and was pleasantly surprised to see a section with some members of the Family Pociliidae!
More clues! And, on page 278 in this must-have book, what to my amazed eyes did I see but our good friend, Poecilia cf. reticulata, AKA, the Guppy? Well, specifically, a variety known as the "Orange Line Guppy. One that I have seen before! This was huge!
And, sure enough, Ivan relates his enchanting first encounter with these little beauties, in a blackwater habitat- the Rio Morichal Lago in his Native Venezuela!
He described that they tend to stay in schools in the most shallow parts of the river, and that they, "do not venture more than 1.5 meters offshore where the water gets really dark and larger fish live."
(Rio Morichal Lago, Estado Monagas, Venezuela. Image by Cesar Perez)
That was all I needed to hear, but the accompanying photo really let this sink in: A small group of these fishes in tinted waters, with a gently sloping sandy bottom, covered in decaying leaves, twigs, and botanical materials! Ivan indicates that the pH in this habitat ranges from 4 to around 5.5- undisputedly acidic; conditions which we seldom seem to associate with livebearing fishes!
They're beautiful little fish, with the males possessing an unusual pinkish-orange horizontal line across the body, with a small almost black marking at the caudal peduncle. They also possess a smaller, less distinct black spot behind the pectoral fins. The females are "generic livebearer silver-grey."
I've also seen these fishes on sale from various breeders listed as "Campona Guppies" or "El Salto Guppies", collected near Ciudad Bolivar, 50km east of El Tigre in Venezuela, in the same Rio Morichal complex Ivan refers to in his book. Curiously, despite the common moniker 'Guppy", most of the hobby listings I've seen indicate that they are Poecilia wingei ‘Campona’ (you know, like "Endler's Livebearers), so there is much taxonomic confusion, to say the least!
All that being said, these are very intriguing fishes to me. Whatever the hell they're called.
Now, what makes this particular obsession/search of mine so alluring and simultaneously frustrating is that many of the livebearers encountered in the trade -and often in the wild- were introduced from other areas. Because of their adaptable nature, you're likely to find them in a huge range of habitats, from brackish water (yay!) to soft, acidic water. However, it seems to me that most of the species come from more coastal locales, and the water might be "colored" through silt and mud, as opposed to the "blackwater" that geeks like me are fascinated with.
And of course, inevitably, after all of this tedious research, I've once again found that there are, as we know- tons of cool, often obscure livebearers that we can keep in brackish water "estuary"- themed tanks!
Poecilia picta, AKA the "Swamp Guppy"- an unsung brackish water beauty!)
Back to those "Orange Line Guppies."
In almost every research paper I was able to find which mentioned this species, it was referred to essentially as the "Guppy"..and of course, it is..well, sort of. Again, the taxonomy is a mess, but the range seems to be somewhat similar. Okay, that's probably a bit of a stretch on my part, but superficially, it appears to be largely the same as any other Poecilia reticulata...
But, here's the thing: Every reference to this particular variety/population indicates it tends to be found in blackwater habitats only. There is no mention of "brackish" occurrences for this population. It seems pretty much a given that it's a blackwater-occurring population.
The underwater ecology includes essentially a "greatest hits" version of the botanical materials we love: Decomposing leaves, twigs, tree roots, and plant parts (including palm fronds), over a bed of silty, loosely aggregated sand. Our kind of place! The water is clear but tinted a golden brown, with an average temperature of around 26C/76F, and a pH ranging from 4-5.5, with as we mentioned previously. Conductivity was around 15 -30 μs / cm.
Yeah, blackwater, by any stretch of the imagination!
Here's a little passage from a paper I found on the "Campona Guppy" in it's natural habitat by researcher F.N. Poeser, an example of the kind of gems you can find online if you dig hard enough:
"The river was about 150 cm deep with the bottom clearly visible, about 180 to 300 cm wide and no submerged vegetation was observed, the observation area was a stretch of about 40 meters. There were trees and some dense vegetation at several positions at the bank. The Campoma guppy was syntopic with the following species: Catoprion spec., Crenicichla spec., Cichlasoma spec., Rivulus spec., Ampullaria spec., and some unidentified crustaceans.
The observed subpopulations, i.e., groups of about twenty adults of both sexes and about 20 sub-adult and juvenile fishes, occupied positions near the river banks. At different locations of this stream we observed other groups with approximately 60 adults, with about 50 subadults and juvenile fishes. The females were continuously grazing the loamy ground, swimming in groups of 6 to 10 fishes. In this stable environment, subgroups are formed consisting only of females."
Now, think about it in fish geek terms for a sec...
The researcher describes the whole setup nicely...Even the other fishes that these guys are found with! And their behavior, too! Interestingly, in the wild, these fishes tend to aggregate in sizable groups. Imagine the interest a large display tank with a nice group of these fishes could create! Sure, it's not perfect for controlled breeding, but you cold have a nice, stable population of some really cool fishes in a system which replicates many aspects of it's natural habitat!
At the end of the day, I'm feeling not only intrigued- but exhilarated to have found at least one livebearer that's semi-regularly available in the hobby, which, by every indication, seems to come from the type of habitats which fascinate us blackwater enthusiasts!
And it just happens to be nice-looking, too.
As I stated earlier in my epic search, "I don't care if the fish is grey, chromatically "uninspired"...or just plain dull! I just think it would be cool to find one that could be "biologically appropriate" for one of our blackwater, botanical-style tanks!"
Damn, I never tire of quoting myself! 😆
I think this one may be the one for me. I DO have an empty tank lying around, so...
Stay focused. Stay Obsessed. Stay creative. Stay resourceful. Stay Geeky...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquatics
The romance and allure of "casual" fish breeding
Like many of you, I'm a lifelong aquarium hobbyist.
I had my first aquarium before kindergarten. It was almost destiny that I was meant to be a fish geek. One of my earliest fish memories was a 30-gallon display tank that my dad had in our living room, which showed off some of his fancy Blue Delta Tail guppies...He was a serious guppy breeder, and growing up around that was just so cool. I got to help hatch brine shrimp at age four, clean filters at age five...well, you get it.
Baby fishes and the excitement that comes along with them were just part of my upbringing, I suppose.
I had my first non-livebearing-fish spawning- Zebra Danios- when I was like 7 or 8 years old. It was super exciting, even though I never reared more than 5-6 fishes from any of the spawns which occurred. My first semi-deliberate attempt at spawning egg-layers came at around 10 or 11- Harlequin Rasbora- a fish I was obsessed with for a long time. It seemed a lot more complicated and to me- just somehow less enjoyable than the more "spontaneous" spawning events I'd enjoyed in my community tanks in years past.
I think I dabbled with my first attempt at a "blackwater aquarium" at around 13 years off age. It was absurdly non-scientific and highly "casual", yet it opened up a lifelong interest in the idea of botanical materiaIs added to aquairums. I gathered a bunch of random leaves from the yard and tossed them in my five gallon aquarium, and added some Eheim long fiber filter peat. Miraculously, none of my fishes died, and I actually saw my Neon Tetras lay eggs a few months later, and little sliver-like fry appeared!
Likely a coincidence, but it got my attention! It started me thinking...
I can't forget the aesthetic of seeing crystal clear water and tons of my favorite all-time plant, Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) in my Dad's tanks. And there was something about seeing that thick covering of plants in that tank which was compelling, yet serene. Occasionally, you'd see a few babies poking in and out of the 'sprite, and that was always so exciting!
And I thought about all of the guppy breeding books that I poured over as a kid, reading about small tanks with dense growth of Water Sprite for giving birth to, and later rearing fry. I loved the idea of rearing fry in densely planted tanks...tanks which looked good, as well as provided some utility for spawning. To this day, Water Sprite is my favorite aquatic plant, hands down.
Yet, plastic breeding traps were becoming more and more prevalent with livebearer enthusiasts...and I could see what was attractive about them from a functionality standpoint: I mean, you could easily isolate and collect the fry, and you didn't have to keep them in the "birthing tank" for growout...It was about efficiency and function. Very important if you're a serious breeder producing for show or commercial purposes and trying to avoid losses to hungry mothers, I suppose...but again- just sort of a "utilitarian vibe" that seemed to me to be so clinical...so...sterile.
Perhaps I'm a bit of a romantic about this sort of stuff...Doing things a more natural way. Yet, it feels right, somehow!
Fast forward a few years, and I was playing with killifish, and I was keeping fishes like Epiplatys (my fave genus of killies), and some Fp. gardneri, and some assorted "top spawning" Aphysemion species...And I was really into breeding them...and yeah, I tried the "spawning mop thing" in bare aquarium, which DID work well at getting a maximum egg count and facilitating easy removal...highly efficient-but it seemed to lack- I dunno- soul, maybe?
Yeah- that was it. Soul. Romance. Allure.
There was something oddly compelling- romantic, even- about looking into a densely planted 2.5 gallon tank, and caching a glimpse of a few fry poking about. Occasionally, one would pop out that was already a nicely-sized juvenile- a very pleasant byproduct of having a safe area to hunker down in as he/she grew! I have this happen periodically even today, especially with Killifish-and it's always incredibly exciting when it does...taking me back to those more simple, less precise days in my hobby experience.
I fell back in love with this "jungle" concept when I spent some time admiring my friend Dave's densely planted livebearer tank not long ago, replete with tons of different fry of different types flitting in and out of the plants! No master plan- just give the fishes a great environment and food, and let 'em "do their thing."
When I bred Kribs, I just had no desire to use a clay flower pot or coconut shell for a "cave". Nope- I felt it better to supply lots of cool rocks and let the fish do what they had done for eons...find a good spot in the rocks and occupy it as they saw fit. There was something more enjoyable to see them choose their spot as they do in the wild.
Again, much respect to the super breeders of fishes like Discus and Angels who use spawning cones and such in a sterile tank and enjoy tremendous success. I know that these are touchy spawners, and that efficiency and all that stuff is so important.
But again, I guess I'd rather forgo some efficiency for a little bit of soul. Suppose that's why I'll never bee a great and productive fish breeder! I mean, your talking to a guy who hand selects every single botanical item he ships...inefficient by any business standard, but entirely satisfying by other standards.
I guess it boils down to how we look at stuff as "fish breeders."
I mean, I have nothing but admiration for those who breed tropical fishes. You inspire and motivate everyone. The problems you overcome, the procedures you create, and the dedication to the craft are amazing. And, yeah, I suppose the efficiencies and utilitarian practices, and even breeding traps- go with the territory to some extent. Yet, I have a lot of trouble wrapping my head around the idea of a bare tank and a flower pot, or whatever to spawn fishes.
For some reason, it's just not "me." I guess I just like the idea of giving the fishes the best environment on a daily basis, and- if it happens- it happens! This idea of giving fishes environmental conditions which approach what they might typically encounter in their wild habitats has always been intriguing to me.
I guess I look at the "spontaneous" clutches of Apisto fry, tetras, or other fishes, that appear unexpectedly in our customers' botanical-style aquariums, and I think to myself, "They're not in a sterile breeding tank...of course that's what happened!"
I suppose it sounds a bit presumptuous, but isn't it logical to assume that if you provide fishes these kinds of conditions on a regular basis that not only will they be healthy and more colorful, but that they're more likely to spawn at some point?
I think so.
I mean, it's not exactly a revelation- but it always makes me smile when I see how hard I've tried to deliberately breed a fish with no success, only to see a fish I never intended to spawn do so without any special encouragement in a botanical-style aquairum.
Sure, some "control" might be ceded by just keeping fishes you intend to spawn in an aesthetically more interesting, more natural setting...but is that always a bad thing? I mean, I suppose if your hobby is the actual spawning and rearing of fishes, you want to do everything in your power to control the situation and create the best possible outcome, and provide a place to safely rear the fry. For me, however, the tradeoff is well worth it.
I just can't get my head around that old "breeding trap" sort of concept, for some reason...Which, of course, is exactly why I'll never be a great fish breeder!
On the other hand, as a "incidental breeder" of fishes, I can appreciate the hard work that the serious guys and gals do, and their technique- as much as I do the spontaneity and joy of finding your Rams guarding a clutch of eggs in your biotope tank, or discovering that your wild Bettas are spawning in the seed pods you laid out for them.
In the end, we all have our particular specialties.
We all enjoy this amazing hobby how we want to... And it's great to breed fishes- whether it's sort of "accidental", because you created a great habitat that encouraged it, or because you employed all sorts of procedure, technique, and gear..like a breeding trap, for example.
For me, it's always been about providing conditions which approximate those that my fishes encounter in their natural habitats 24/7/365, fostering their optimum health, and if something cool happens, like a spawning...well, that's just a "bonus!"
What's your take on this stuff?
Are you an "opportunistic fish breeder" like me, who relies on Nature to do a lot of the "work", or are you a hardcore, dyed-in-the-wool fish breeder, who uses skill, technique, and specialized equipment to conduct controlled breeding? Have you "crossed over" and tried the other way?
Until next time...keep doing what you do.
Stay creative. Stay dedicated. Stay observant. Stay bold. Stay diligent...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquaitcs
You're still using sand for your substrate? How passé!
Yes, we've hit on this topic before. Quite recently, in fact.
And yes, I'm totally obsessed with it.
And yes, it needs to be stressed more and more. I'm desperate to get it through to you!
Substrates are more than a "set and forget" thing. They're a dynamic, functional part of the miniature ecosystems we create in our aquariums. We've used the "basic" stuff for a generation. It's time to open up our minds to a few new ideas. To rethink substrate. To reconsider why we incorporate substrate, and what we use.
Of course, taking an historic perspective never hurts, either, right?
As we know, the substrates that we've been using in our aquarium work for most of the past 50 years or so in the hobby have been fairly "standard." Much of what hobbyists have used has been finer gravels (what hobbyist who didn't start as a kid doesn't remember the famous "#3 Aquarium gravel"- the industry standard for a generation.)
Now, occasionally, you'd see some sands and much finer gravels, but with the emergence of the "under gravel filter", the coarser materials were far more common. In the late 60's and early 70's, more "exotic" materials, like the much-loved black gravels, appeared. That was some crazy shit, lol! What kid didn't' want that in her tankful of Cardinal Tetras, right?
In the 1980's, the reef aquarium hobby began to take off, and materials like crushed coral, dolomite, and eventually aragonite, started to come into the game. Dolomite was much loved by the African Rift Lake cichlid crowd. In the 90's and early 2000's, you really started seeing the emergence of sands of various sorts making a big presence known.
Manufacturers started cranking out some cool stuff, based more on what you might see in some wild habitats, rather than just what material could be appropriated from a different industry, like, landscaping, etc.
You also saw far more varieties of "nutritious" substrates for planted aquariums, many containing volcanic materials or clays, designed to grow aquatic plants as efficiently as possible. This, to me, was a big turning point in the "substrate universe." We had really functional substrate materials at last- materials created for the expressed purpose of growing plants...that was really cool!
However, as a huge fan of aquarium substrates, to me, it seemed like little innovation was going on in the "fish-centric" side of the substrate world. I mean, some of the sands marketed by the major manufacturers are incredible- and I absolutely love them, and use them extensively. Yet, they were geared more for aesthetics than function, in my humble opinion.
These materials are of generally excellent quality, provide a wide range of choices for a variety of applications, and are readily available.
Now, in many of the tropical regions we admire, the basic substrate is often referred to simply as "fine, white sand" in most scientific papers- typically, but not necessarily a silica of some sort. And of course, other locations have slightly larger grain sizes of other pulverized stones and such. Still others are comprised of sediments which wash down from higher elevations during seasonal rains.
Studies have shown that particle sizes tend to decrease the further downstream from the source they are found. Large rivers, such as the Amazon, have beds of shifting sands, slowly transported with the currents. Typically, the larger the item (pebble, rock, or boulder), the longer it tends to stay in one place. So, in a more powerful flow, you're more likely to find larger-sized materials.
The first recorded observations of bed material of the Amazon River were made in 1843 by Lt William Lewis Herndon of the US Navy, when he travelled the river from its headwaters to its mouth, sounding its depths, and noting the nature of particles caught in a heavy grease smeared to the bottom of his sounding weight.
He reported the bed material of the river to be mostly sand and fine gravel. Oltman and Ames took samples at a few locations in 1963 and 1964, and reported the bed material at Óbidos, Brazil, to be fine sands, with median diameters ranging from 0.15 to 0.25 mm.
Yet, there's a lot more we can uncover when we look towards Nature, in regards to substrate. You've likely seen my recent work with with different materials, like leaves, botanicals, clays, and sediments that I've shared with you here and elsewhere.
This has culminated in our release of our line of NatureBase "sedimented substrates", which were specifically formulated to recreate on both a functional and aesthetic level the substrates found in some of the unique ecological niches we're obsessed with!
Okay, I could go on and on with my amateur, highly un-scientific review of substrates in Amazonia and elsewhere, and touting my new substrates in the most geeky and self-serving ways, but you get the point!
Suffice it to say, there is more to the substrate materials found in Nature than just "sand." That's the biggest takeaway here! So, as hobbyists, we have more options and inspiration to to draw on to create more compelling functional substrates in our aquariums!
What kinds of materials can we employ to create more "functional" substrates (which just happen to look cool, too?). What kinds of functions and benefits can we hope to recreate in the confines of our aquariums?
First off, think beyond just sands...or anything resembling "conventional" aquarium substrate. Think about what goes on in the benthic (bottom) regions in the natural habitats we love, and what benefits or support the materials which aggregate there provide for the organisms within the ecosystem.
Understand that the substrate is a dynamic, extremely important part of the aquarium, too. And what we construct our substrate with, and how we manage it, is of profound importance to our fishes!
Fostering fungal growth, as well as other microorganisms and small crustaceans, should be a huge component of the "why" we do this. These organisms, as we've discussed repeatedly, form a part of the "food chain" within our captive ecosystems, and offer huge benefits to the aquarium not only as potential supplemental nutrition for fishes, but as a means to process and export nutrients from within the botanical-style aquarium.
A combination of finely crushed leaves, bits of botanicals, small twigs, etc. can form the basis for a more "biologically active" and even productive substrate. As these materials break down, they are colonized by fungi and biofilms, and impart tannins, lignin, and other sources of carbon into the water to fuel a variety of microbial growth.
And of course, larger crustaceans and even fishes will consume the organisms which live in this "matrix", as well as possibly consuming some of the detritus from the decomposing leaves themselves. This is precisely what happens in natural systems.
I'm fascinated by the different types of soils or substrate materials which occur in blackwater systems, and how they influence the aquatic environment. Keep in mind that many of the habitats we obsess over, like Amazonian "igapos" and "igarapes" are seasonally-inundated forest-floor features, so it goes without saying that the terrestrial soil composition and associated biomass have significant influence on the aquatic environments that emerge during the wet season.
Its a very different looking- and functioning- substrate, for sure. And it can absolutely be replicated successfully in the aquarium. Adding materials reminiscent of those found in the wild to augment- or completely replace- the more "traditional" sands and other substrates used in aquariums is an easy "mental shift" that we can make and act upon.
With our embrace of "detritus" or "mulm" as a source of "fuel" for creating active biological systems within the confines of our aquariums, I think that the idea of an "enriched substrate," replete with botanical materials, will become an integral part of the overall ecosystems that we create. Considering the substrate as both an aesthetic AND functional component- especially in "non-plant-focused" aquariums, opens up a whole new area of aquarium "exploration."
I envision that the future of mainstream aquarium practice may include creating such a substrate as simply part of what we do. Adding a mix of botanical materials, live bacterial and small organism cultures, and even some "detritus" from healthy aquatic systems may become how we establish systems. For blackwater/botanical-style aquariums, which tend to be less plant-focused, establishing the "ecosystem" is very important.
And the idea is not THAT crazy- it's long been practice to add some sand or filter media from established aquariums into new tanks to help "jump-start" necessary biological processes. It makes sense, and the overall concept is really not that difficult to grasp. And we probably shouldn't get too crazy into understanding every single aspect of this practice. Suffice it to say, something about this practice works, for reasons which we already tangentially understand.
In a strictly aesthetic sense, the bottom itself becomes a big part of the aesthetic focus of the aquarium as well, with the botanicals placed upon the substrate- or, in some cases, becoming the substrate. Okay, cool. What are some other material you can play with to create these "alternative" substrates?
How about...twigs?
Twigs are really fascinating to me as a substrate, because not only do they create an interesting-looking substrate, they provide unique functional benefits as well. They create "interstitial spaces" (defined as "spaces between objects") which create areas for various fauna (small crustaceans, worms, and aquatic insects), as well as a surface for biofilm, algae, and fungal attachment and growth. The matrix offer protection for these organisms to grow.
Of course, it also provides a foraging area for the fishes. A place where they, too can shelter when needed. A place for them to spawn on and in.
And of course, a mixing of elements - sand, sediments, crushed botanicals, etc., is yet another approach that you can take to creating a very unique and highly functional substrate. Allowing natural processes of decomposition to take place in and on the substrate is considered "best practice" in this approach.
Why? Because if we try to remove the detritus or other "offensive" material from a substrate created for this purpose, we're effectively depriving "someone"- some beneficial organisms- of their food source. Thus, a slowdown- or even a complete breakdown- of the very processes we're trying to foster-occurs.
There is something incredibly beautiful and useful about utilizing these alternative materials in our substrates. They have created an incredible opportunity for us as hobbyists to forge new directions in the hobby. To embrace function first, and let the aesthetics unfold as a result.
And most important- to appreciate the wonders of Nature as it is- and how these systems organize themselves into beautiful, highly unique aquariums if we let them. If we make that mental shift which says, "You don't have to make your substrate an afterthought!"
Because of the very "operating system" of our tanks, which features decomposing leaves, botanicals, soils, roots, etc., we are able to create a remarkably rich and complex population of creatures within them. Let's take advantage this!
This is one of the most interesting aspects of a botanical-style aquarium: We have the opportunity to create an aquatic microcosm-on many levels- which provides not only unique aesthetics- it provides some supplemental nutritional value for our fishes, and perhaps most important- nutrient processing- a self-generating population of creatures that compliment, indeed, create the biodiversity in our systems on a more-or-less continuous basis.
It's important to at least understand this concept as it can relate to aquariums. It's worth doing a bit of research and pondering. It'll educate you, challenge you, and make you a better overall aquarist. Try an alternative substrate in your next aquarium- because sand is just so, well... you get the idea!
Stay curious. Stay resourceful. Stay thoughtful. Stay patient. Stay creative...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquatics
How long do leaves last underwater? Cues from Nature. Question for aquarium applications.
One of the many enduring questions we hear about use of botanicals and leaves in our aquariums concerns how long the materials that we add to our tanks last once we prepare them and add them to our systems.
It's a good one, too!
As the leaves are affected by the aquatic environment, they are acted upon by water conditions, the presence of bacteria, fungi, and fish/invertebrate populations.
We're often asked which leaves last longer than others, and what the reasons might be for this. Is it strictly the durability of the leaves? Is it that they're somehow distasteful to the organisms which are expected to consume them? Is it "something in the water?"
What gives?
Let's look at how natural aquatic systems process leaves for some clues.
Decomposition is an amazing process by which Nature processes materials for use by the greater ecosystem. It's the first part of the recycling of nutrients that were used by the plant from which the botanical material came from. When botanical material decays, it is broken down and converted into more simple organic forms, which become food for all kinds of organisms at the base of the ecosystem.
In aquatic ecosystems, much of the initial breakdown of botanical materials is conducted by detritivores- specifically, fishes, aquatic insects and invertebrates, which serve to begin the process by feeding upon the tissues of the seed pod or leaf, while other species utilize the "waste products" which are produced during this process for their nutrition.
In these habitats, such as streams and flooded forests, a variety of species work in tandem with each other, with various organisms carrying out different stages of the decomposition process.
Interestingly, in some wild aquatic habitats, such as the famous Peat swamps of Southeast Asia, the decomposition of leaves which fall into these waters is remarkably slow. In fact, ecologists have observed that the leaves typically do not break down.
Why?
It's commonly believed that these low nutrient waters, which are high in tannins, and highly acidic, seem to impede microbial activity. This is seemingly at odds with the understanding that passive leaching of dissolved organic compounds (DOC) from leaf litter has been found to be a major source of energy in tropical stream habitats, fueling the microbial food chains which we are so fascinated by.
No doubt the water parameters have something to do with this. These are unique habitats. Here are a few stats from the peat swamps in which some studies on leaf decomposition were conducted:
Water temperature: 25C/77F-32C/89F
pH: 2.6-3.8
TDS: 89-134mg/l
Nitrate: <0.-0.2mg/l
Dissolved oxygen: 1.8-16mg/l
In the studies, leaves of native species found along the swamps submerged in the waters of the swamps lost very little biomass, which other leaves from trees did break down more substantially. This tends to rule out the generally-held theory that ecologists have which postulates that the slow decomposition rate in the peat swamps is due to the extreme conditions. Rather, as mentioned above, it's believed that the resistance to decomposition is due to the physical and chemical properties of the leaves which are found right along the swamps.
(image by Marcel Silvius)
The reason? Well, think about it.
Leaf litter in tropical peat swamp forests builds up into peat many feet deep over thousands of years, and thus impedes nutrient cycling. And when you think about it, inputs of nutrients into most peat swamps come solely from rainfall, because rivers and streams in the region don't always flow into the swamps. In such nutrient poor, highly acidic conditions, it is more beneficial for plants to protect their leaves, rather than to replace them when subjected to elements like wind, and herbivore damage (mostly by insects) with new growth.
And interestingly, bacteria and fungi are known to be responsible for leaf breakdown in the peat swamps, because ecologists typically don't encounter aquatic invertebrates in the peat swamp which are known to ingest leaf material!
Our friends, the fungi!
Yeah, those guys again.
Fungi are regarded by biologists to be the dominant organisms associated with decaying leaves in streams, so this gives you some idea as to why we see them in our aquariums, right?
Here's a fascinating conclusion from a study by researchers Catherine M. Yule and Lalita N. Gomez on leaching of dissolved organic carbon (DOC) in the early stages of the leaf litter decomposition in these peat swamps:
"Most of the DOC appears to be leached within a few weeks of leaves falling into the swamp and thus it appears likely that the cycling of DOC is rapid, and occurs before the leaves become part of the peat deposits. This would further explain the presence of the thick, superficial root mat layer (also a response to waterlogging) that is a key feature of tropical peat forests, since the processes of nutrient cycling would occur in the upper leaf litter layer, rather than the deeper, waterlogged peat."
Okay, neat stuff. It kind of reminds me of those "bog mummies" from Europe, in which the ancient remains s of humans are very well preserved because of the acidic, oxygen-poor conditions of these bogs where the bodies are found.
During the wet season, the peat swamps are inundated with water, which slows down the aerobic decomposition which occurs in the substrate- conditions which facilitate the formation of peat. The breakdown of leaves in the wild is fascinating, as are the implications for the process in our aquariums.
This is a dynamic, fascinating process- part of why we find the idea of a natural, botanical-style system so compelling. Many of the organisms- from microbes to micro crustaceans to fungi- are almost never seen except by the most observant and keen-eyed hobbyist...but they're there- doing what they've done for eons. They work slowly and methodically over weeks and months, converting the botanical material into forms that are more readily assimilated by themselves and other aquatic organisms.
The real cycle of life!
And another reason why the surrounding tropical forests are so vital to life. The allochthonous leaf material from the riparian zone (ie; from the trees!) as a source of energy for stream invertebrates, insects and fishes can't be understated! When we preserve the rain forests and their surrounding terrestrial habitats, we're also preserving the aquatic life forms which are found there when the waters return.
In our aquariums, we're just beginning to appreciate the real benefits of using leaves and botanicals. Not just for cool aesthetics or to "tint" the water- but to create truly natural, ecologically stable aquatic systems for the health and well-being of the fishes we love so much!
So, the reason why some leaves last longer than others in our aquariums is open for debate, although I tend to favor the argument that some leaves that we play with (like Magnolia, Live Oak, Loquat, and Mangrove), and are physically more durable than leaves like Catappa, Jackfruit, and Guava, and thus more resistant to being physically broken down by the fauna and water conditions typically found in our aquaria.
Magnolia leaves, for example, have a waxy coating which renders them more resistant to damage from salt and pollution. According to botanists, the purpose of this covering is to help the plant retain water and repel pollutants. It's analogous to the protection mechanisms which the tropical leaves mentioned above possess.
Sure, very soft, acidic water could have a definite impact on both the density of the microbial community and the higher organisms which "work" the leaves in our aquariums, but I think that our typical pH leaves are no where near as low as you see in natural habitats like peat swamps and flooded forests.
It's a frustrating, difficult-to-answer-with-complete-certainty question!
The reality is that you could probably count on virtually every leaf to reach a point where they will eventually be broken down via one force or another, However, for the purposes of working with botanical-style aquariums, we should assume that all leaves are "consumables", ultimately needing replacement. Sure, leaves like Catappa tend to be the most "ephemeral" in our systems, but every leaf is ultimately subject to decomposition when submerged.
One concept about botanical-style aquariums that I can't seem to bring up enough is the idea that many of the habitats we like to represent in our tanks- and the materials which we utilize to 'scape them, are ephemeral. In other words, they are not permanent features, breaking down and decomposing following long-term submersion.
One interesting observation I’ve made over the years concerning adding leaves to the aquarium and letting them decay: Dead, dried leaves such as those we favor don’t have nearly the impact on water quality, in terms of nitrate, as fresh leaves would. I’ve routinely seen undetectable nitrate levels in aquariums loaded with botanicals. This is largely because dead, dried leaves have depleted the vast majority of stored sugars and other compounds which lead to the production of nitrogenous substances in the confines of the aquarium.
Hence, leaving leaves in to fully decay likely reaches a point when the detritus is essentially inert, consisting of the skeletonize sections of leaf tissue which can decay no further. Dead leaves contain largely inert forms of polysaccharides, and are rich in structures like lignin and cellulose. Oh, and doing regular water changes can’t hurt...😆
In the aquarium, much like in the natural habitat, the layer of decomposing leaves and botanical matter, colonized by so many organisms, ranging from bacteria to macro invertebrates and insects, is a prime spot for fishes! We've covered this idea so many times here it's probably yawn-inducing for some of you, no doubt!
How often do you need to replace your leaves? Well, another great question for which there is no "rule" involved! The reality is that you can simply add new leaves on a regular basis, so you'll always be making up for the ones that have decomposed. Some hobbyists like to remove the decomposed leaves, preferring a more "pristine" look. It boils down to aesthetics, really.
It's important to understand that,when we add leaves to aquariums, we're replicating on many levels the processes which occur in Nature.
So, how long do different leaves last?
Damn, I wish I had an answer. The reality is that, as with so many things we play with in the botanical-style aquarium game- there is no way to know for sure. No guarantees and certainties.
As we’ve discussed repeatedly over the past couple of years, there are so many benefits to playing with leaves in the aquarium in some capacity. Whether it’s for water conditioning, supplemental food, speciality fishes, or simply for a cool-looking display, overcoming our ingrained aesthetic preferences and accepting the decomposing leaves as a natural, transitory, and altogether unique habitat to cherish in the aquarium is a decision that each one of us has to make- but if you look at it from a functional aesthetic perspective, it’s pretty easy to appreciate the “beauty”, in my (very biased!) opinion!
Stay excited. Stay engaged. Stay curious. Stay geeky. Stay adventurous...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquatics
The ever-growing inspiration of the morichal
One of my favorite parts of the aquarium hobby is learning about different aquatic habitats, and considering the ecology and the fishes which reside in them. This of course, gives me a lot of inspiration for new aquarium executions. That's what keeps this hobby so amazing!
I'm totally fascinated by the floodplain rivers and wetland complexes from which many of our aquarium fishes come. Most of these habitats are subject to extensive seasonal flooding. Large river channels possess well-developed fringing floodplain systems, such as the "internal delta", located at the confluence of the Apure and Orinoco.
A "morichal" is a lowland stream found in Savannah areas of South America, Amazon River basin, the upper Negro River drainage in Brazil, the Orinoco River basin, and along the Orinoco River in Colombia and Venezuela, among other locales. The habitat is dominated by a certain type of palm tree, the "Moriche Palm" (Mauritia flexousa), and extensive riparium vegetation. This palm only grows were its roots can be underwater (love that!),and typically is found in groups- hence the term, "morichal", which refers to...a group of them!
These are surprisingly densely populated habitats, fish wise. Morichals are characterized as having what ecologists call "High structural complexity". The two types of morichal habitats are flooded vegetated areas and "sandbanks." The flooded vegetated areas are dominated by stands of the aforementioned "Moriche palm", having up to 90% substrate coverage, consisting of large woody debris derived from riparian vegetation (mainly the palms), as well as terrestrial grass and leaf litter. These habitats have a very moderate or slow current (< 0.05 m/s) and depth (3ft/ 1 m or less).
"Sandbanks" in the morichal are defined as sandy beaches off of the main channels (mostly comprised of coarse sand substrate) with depth of around 3ft/ 1 m, and moderate current (< 0.06 m/s).
Morichals are considered important systems for the maintenance of freshwater Neotropical fauna in lowland savannas. The monodominant stands of the palm and associated growths provide important food to a great number of species,
Although typically supplied with underground water sources throughout the year, these streams swell with water during periods of seasonal flooding. Riparian vegetation and sandy substrates abound. And when you have trees, vegetation, and seasonal influx of water, utilizing botanicals in your aquarium replication of this habitat is just "par for the course', right?
The habitat itself has an abundance of botanical debris, leaves, macro algae, fallen branches, palm fronds, and a matrix of roots and such. And, with terrestrial plants growing right up to the water's edge, the possibilities to create a cool aquatic display are unlimited! With a little creativity, one could simulate the growth of the riparian vegetation of the "morichal."
The flooded vegetation habitats along most morichals are important to fish fauna, composed largely of small-bodied cichlids, characins, lebiasinids, and silurids. The sand patches tend to have slightly less species richness and population density than the vegetated areas.
It makes sense that the vegetated habitats are more populous, right? I mean, these littoral habitats, which contain woody debris and leaf litter are known by ecologists to support higher "primary and secondary productivity" which provides fishes with more foraging opportunities on a larger variety of substrates.
Again, it's a case of the fishes following the food- an idea we've discussed many times here, right? 🤓
In a study I found of a typical morichal habitat by authors Carmen G. Montaña, Craig A. Layman, and Donald C. Taphorn, the distribution of fishes among the two major morichal habitats was explained as follows:
"...in vegetated patches we found a relatively high abundance of small cichlids and doradid catfishes with different body shapes and feeding habits (e.g., Apistgramma hoignei, Physopyxis ananas). But small omnivorous characids with less-diversified body morphologies (Characidae), such as tetras of the genera Moenkhausia spp. and Hemigrammus spp., dominated open and shallow beaches."
And this little tidbit from the study is quite interesting, too: "Although we did not evaluate communities of small invertebrates in this study, it was apparent that vegetated patches contained a high abundance of shrimps and other macroinvertebrates."
Yeah, shrimp.
Oh, and aquatic plants, too!
It is not uncommon to find large stands of Eleocharis in shallow areas. In the deeper water, several species of Ludwigia are found in significant density, and in the shallows, you'll often find simple filament algae. Another cool aquatic plant that you'll find in these habitats stats is the much-loved (yet challenging to many) Tonina fluviatilis, which grows in dense stands within these shallow, acidic, slow-moving morichal habitats.
Although the waters in these habitats are largely clear (as in, not turbid), some are stained with tannins and are typically acidic in pH (usually 6.0 or less), and have a significant amount of roots and such from the terrestrial and riparium vegetation surrounding. You'll find lots of palm leaves, fruits, and seed pods submerged on the substrate in morichals.
And of course, that's where we come in, right?
Scattering botanicals materials along the bottom of the aquarium would create a pretty good replication of the morichal environment! I would probably not go too crazy, in terms of variety; rather, I'd limit my selections to a few botanicals and just sort of "do it up" that way, so as to emphasize the abundance of several dominating terrestrial plant species in the locale.
"What about the fishes, Scott?"
Oh, yeah!
These environments often contain dozens of different fish species in relatively small areas, including characins, catfishes, and dwarf cichlids. Unusual characin species, such as Hemiodus, are often found in these habitats. Occasionally available in the aquarium trade, they would make really cool "stars" for a specialized display like this! The lovely "Green Neon Tetra" (Paracheirodon simulans), is a known (and super sexy!) denizen of this habitat, as well!
Oh, and Dwarf Pike Cichlids are often found in morichal habitats...hello!
Of course, some of the more popular characins, such as Pencilfishes (N. unifasciatus is notable), are found there. And Apistogramma, along with the beloved Mesonauta insignis, are found in morichals, which will lend a familiar, if not somewhat exotic look to your display!
As a subject for a riparium study, the morichal environment presents a near-perfect opportunity to stretch your aquatic creativity, while highlighting some well-known fishes in an unusual and not-often-replicated niche.
Think of the creative possibilities here!
The morichal is symbolic of where we are in the aquarium hobby: At a real "high point", where it's entirely possible to create realistic, "functionally aesthetic" aquatic display utilizing natural materials to mimic the look and feel of the amazing aquatic habitats of the world, while simultaneously learning about these priceless natural treasures.
With so much to explore in the natural world, and so many habitats- or aspects of them- to replicate in the aquarium, we have unique opportunities to get out of our "comfort zones", study the form and function of them, and create great work. It will be really fun to see what kinds of representations our community will continue to push out to the world.
Let's keep pushing!
Stay creative. Stay studious. Stay bold. Stay excited...
And Stay Wet.
Scott Fellman
Tannin Aquatics
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