The Tint

From idea to microcosm

Now, when you ask me about the pic which really steeled my obsession with the idea of deep leaf litter beds and flooded forests, it would have to be this one from Mike Tuccinardi from the Amazon region.

This one image is literally why I took a "sabbatical" from the reef keeping world, sold my interest in my coral business, and went on to launch Tannin Aquatics. A classic igapo habitat- a flooded forest, replete with leaves, branches, seed pods, and terrestrial plants growing underwater. And the tinted, slightly turbid water...Perhaps the absolute perfect essence of what we're all about here.

I find endless inspiration in this one shot!

It pretty much sealed my fate as a lover of the igapo habitat and to learn all I could about replicating it in form and function in the aquarium.

And, every time I look at this pic (which I do a lot, let me tell you!), I'm reminded that there is a point in every botanical-style aquarium when you can sort of tell which way it's going. A point when you can see it transforming from an idea to a microcosm.

A "jumping-off" stage, where our initial work is done, and Nature takes over for a while, breaking down the botanicals, allowing a "patina" of biocover and biofilm to cover some of the surfaces, removing the crisp, harsh, "new" feeling.  This is where Amano's concept of embracing the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi takes over. Accepting the transient nature of things and enjoying the beauty of the changes that occur over time.

And of course, once stuff starts "softening" or breaking down, it doesn't mean that your job is done, or that you're just an observer from that point on. Nope. It means that you're now in a cool phase of "actively managing" (and by "managing", I am emphasizing observation more than "intervening!") the aquarium.

Sure, when you embrace this mindset, you're making minor "tweaks" as necessary to keep the aquarium healthy and moving in the direction-aesthetically, functionally, and otherwise- that you want it to. Yet, at some point early in the process- you find yourself just letting go and allowing the tank to do what Nature intends it to do on it's evolutionary path...

A lot of people may disagree, but I personally feel that THIS phase is the most exciting and rewarding part of the whole process!  And perhaps- one of the most natural...if we allow it to be.

A phase when you interact with your aquarium on a very different level; a place where you get to play a role in the direction your 'scape is going, without constantly interrupting the natural progression taking place within the little microcosm you created!

And of course, the natural "analog" of this phase is when those initial rains arrive and inundate formerly dry habitats, flooding forests and grasslands, transforming them into aquatic habitats once again. Life begins to make a transition- an adaptation to a different environment. Microorganisms flourish and multiply, aquatic insects emerge. Fishes return to forage and reproduce.

When the rains subside somewhat after the initial inundation, the sort of "pause" between storms gives life a chance to make those adjustments necessary during the transformation.

It's a wonderful time in the life cycle of these habitats.

And it happens in an almost identical manner in the aquarium.

As botanical materials break down, more and more compounds (tannins, humic substances, lignin, bound-up organic matter) begin leaching into the water column in your aquarium, influencing the water chemistry and overall environment. Some botanicals, like leaves, break down within weeks, needing replacement if you wish to maintain the "consistency" of the habitat you've started to achieve in your aquarium.

Others, like bark, branches, and more robust seed pods last a much longer time. They not only serve to enrich the aquatic environment- they become "attachment points" for fungal growth, biofilms, and algal mats- just like in Nature.

Many hobbyists tend to want to rush through this phase, where all of the biofilms and decomposition begins and accelerates- as if it is some sort of "obstacle" we need to overcome to get to some ultimate destination with our aquarium. Understanding that it's NOT- and that, in fact, it's the whole game- changes your perspective entirely.  

Yet, a lot of people want to see the aquarium move on from this point rather quickly.

I feel sad for them. They need to enjoy it. Savor it. Why do we as aquarists not embrace this part of our aquariums' evolutions a little more wholeheartedly? Why do we dedicate some much energy to resisting Nature's work than we do enjoying it?

I was wondering if it has to do with some inherent impatience that we have as aquarists- or perhaps as humans in general-a desire to see the "finished product" as soon as possible; something like that. And there is nothing at all wrong with that, I suppose. I just kind of wonder what the big rush is?

I guess, when we view an aquarium in the same context as a home improvement project, meal preparation, or algebra test, I can see how reaching some semblance of "finished" would take on a greater significance! Those earlier, in-between-sort of moments are not nearly as exciting as some perceived destination or outcome we have in mind for our tank.

We have an idea in our head of HOW it's" supposed" to look, and to many, anything that falls short of that is just a "phase", I suppose.

On the other hand, if you look at an aquarium as you would a garden- an organic, living, evolving, growing entity- then the need to see the thing "finished" becomes much less important. Suddenly, much like a "road trip", the destination becomes less important than the journey. It's about the experiences gleaned along the way. Enjoyment of the developments, the process.

In the botanical-style aquarium, it's truly about a dynamic and ever-changing system. An evolution. A process. Started by us, assisted by Nature.

Every stage holds fascination. 

Just like it does in the wild habitats that we covet so deeply.

To not allow an aquarium to evolve- to not trust Nature to help take it from an idea to a microcosm- is to not allow oneself the opportunity to witness firsthand the wonders of the natural world, and the incredible promise, tenacity, and beauty of life underwater.

Be kind to yourself and your aquarium. Be patient and enjoy the journey.

All of it.

Stay calm. Stay engrossed. Stay observant. Stay persistent. Stay brave...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

The how's and why's of botanical prep- revisited...again!

Let's face it- one of the fundamental "skills" we have to learn as lovers of botanical-style aquariums is the preparation of the materials that we use. It's pretty much a given that we employ some prep before adding botanicals to our aquariums.

And it's an important practice which sets the stage for a successful natural aquarium experience. And we're all about seeing you succeed, so let's review this stuff again!

The idea is to get your dried botanical materials into a condition where they are both reasonably clean, and with their tissues saturated sufficiently to cause them to sink. This usually involves some simple, yet possibly time-consuming tasks, as we've all come to know.

There are basically three ways to prepare most botanical materials for use in the aquarium:

1) Boil them/steep them in boiling water

2) An overnight (or longer) soak in room temperature water

3)  A combination of both.

Always rinse any of our botanicals in clean fresh water before use, even after boiling or soaking. This will rinse away any loose dirt or organic material that has adhered to their surface tissues. Just sort of a "best practice", IMHO.

We start with boiling.

For the vast majority of botanicals, you'll need to boil them in a clean pot for at least 30-40 minutes; many "stubborn" ones (ie; really buoyant botanicals) may take more than an hour of continuous boiling! I'm thinking of Sterculia pods, Afzelia pods, and Carinaina pods here...

The boiling process not only saturates the tissues of many botanicals, it breaks them down a bit, and helps release any surface dirt that might be remaining (like dust, pollen, spider webs, etc.). The boiling serves the dual purpose of helping release pollutants and getting them to absorb water to sink. (No one likes a floating pod)

Consider that boiling water is used as a method of making water potable by killing microbes that may be present. Most nasty microbes "check out" at temperatures greater than 60 °C (140 °F). For a high percentage of microbes, if water is maintained at 70 °C (158 °F) for ten minutes, many organisms are killed, but some are more resistant to heat and require one minute at the boiling point of water. (FYI the boiling point of water is 100 °C, or 212 °F)...However, for the most part, most of the nasty bacteria that we don't want in either our tanks or our stomachs are eliminated by this simple process.

A minimum of ten minutes of boiling is "golden", IMHO.  The boiling process not only saturates the tissues of many botanicals, it breaks them down a bit, and helps release any surface dirt that might be remaining (like dust, pollen, spider webs, etc.). The boiling serves the dual purpose of helping release pollutants and getting them to absorb water to sink. (No one likes a floating seed pod...well, maybe some of us do, but...)

And of course, we boil botanicals to kill any possible microorganisms which might be present on them. Leaves, seed pods, etc. have been exposed to rain and dust and all sorts of things in the natural environment which, in the confines of an aquarium, could  introduce unwanted organisms and contribute to the degradation of the water quality. 

Makes sense, right?

Boiling also serves to soften and saturate the tissues of the botanicals.

Most seed pods have tougher exterior features, and require prolonged boiling and soaking periods to release any surface dirt and contaminants, and to saturate their tissues to get them to sink when submerged! 

There is no "absolute" in this, either.

Each botanical item "behaves" just a bit differently, and many will require slight variations on the theme of "boil and soak", some testing your patience as they may require multiple "boils" or prolonged soaking in order to get them to saturate and sink.

Yeah, some of those damn things can be a pain! 

However, I think the effort is worthwhile.

Now, sure, I hear tons of arguments which essentially state that "...these are natural materials, and that in Nature, stuff doesn't get boiled and soaked before it falls into a stream or river." Well, damn, how can I argue with that? The only counterargument I have is that these are open systems, with far more water volume and throughput than our tanks, right? Nature might have more efficient, evolved systems to handle some forms of nutrient excesses and even pollution. It's a delicate balance, of course.

If you remember your high school Botany, leaves, for example, are surprisingly complex structures, with multiple layers designed to reject pollutants, facilitate gas exchange, drive photosynthesis, and store sugars for the benefit of the plant on which they're found.

As such, it's important to get them to release some of the materials which might be bund up in the epidermis (outer layers) of the leaf.  As we get deeper into the structure of a leaf, we find the mesophyll, a layer of tissue in which much of photosynthesis takes place.

We use only dried leaves in our botanical style aquariums, because these leaves from deciduous trees, which naturally fall off the trees in seasons of inclement weather, have lost most of their chlorophyll and sugars contained within the leaf structures. This is important, because having these compounds present, as in living leaves, contributes excessively to the bioload of the aquarium when submerged...

Rest assured, we are researching the use of more "fresh" tropical leaves in our systems; I'll get back to you on that one soon!

Are there variations on this preparation regimen?

Well, sure.

Many hobbyists rinse, then steep their leaves rather than a prolonged boil, for the simple fact that exposure to the newly-boiled water will accomplish the potential "kill" of unwanted organisms, which at the same time softening the leaves by permeating the outer tissues. This way, not only will the "softened" leaves "go to work" right away, releasing the beneficial tannins and humic substances bound up in their tissues, they will sink, too! 

And materials like oak twigs often need a prolonged boil and soak to get them to sink reliably. It's a sort of "adapt as you go" thing, really.

And of course, I know many who simply "rinse and drop", and that works for them, too!

So why do we soak after boiling?

Well, it's really a personal preference thing. I suppose one could say that I'm excessively conservative, really. 

I feel that it releases any remaining pollutants and undesirable organics that might have been bound up in the leaf tissues and released by boiling, which is certainly arguable, but is also, IMHO, a valid point. And since we're a company dedicated to giving our customers the best possible outcomes- we recommend being conservative and employing the post-boil soak before adding your botanicals and leaves to your aquarium.

So, how long do you soak your botanicals?

The soak could be for an hour or two, or overnight...no real "science" to it. Some aquarists would argue that you're wasting all of those valuable tannins and humic substances when you soak the leaves overnight after boiling. My response has always been that you might lose some, but since the leaves have a "lifespan" of weeks, even months, and since you'll see tangible results from them (i.e.; tinting of the water) for much of this "operational lifespan, an overnight soak is no big deal in the grand scheme of things.

Do what's most comfortable for you- and okay for your fishes.

Like so many things in our evolving "practice" of perfecting the blackwater, botanical-style aquarium, developing, testing, and following some basic "protocols" is never a bad thing. And understanding some of the "hows and whys" of the process- and the reasons for embracing it-will hopefully instill into our community the necessity- and pleasures- of going slow, taking the time, observing, tweaking, and evolving our "craft"- for the benefit of the entire aquarium community.

Stay diligent. Stay observant. Stay studious. Stay curious...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Beyond the tint: Clearing the waters about botanical-style aquariums...

With the explosion of interest in botanical-style aquariums, there has been a tremendous influx of aquarists who have never worked with stuff like leaves, seed pods, and twigs in their tanks before. It makes a lot of sense; we've been told for a generation that these things can create environmental conditions in our aquariums which might challenge our abilities to manage them safely. 

Now, I've spent the better part of the last two decades doing all sorts of crazy experiments with botanicals, and all of the past 5 or so years evolving Tannin Aquatics and advancing the "state of the art" of the botanical-style aquarium approach in general. It's been a very gratifying several years. 

Yeah, I love the natural, botanical-style blackwater/brackish aquarium. I'm totally obsessed with utilizing botanicals in all sorts of cool aquariums! They look amazing, create a functional ecosystem for all sorts of fishes- and are utterly incapable of doing everything that we seem to want them to do!

Yep. That's correct.

With all of the cool tanks we're seeing coming up, and a growing global interest in blackwater, botanical-style aquariums, we're seeing a lot of discussion about the "functional" aspects of botanicals. Perhaps most astonishingly, we see self-proclaimed, yet likely well-intentioned "experts" (many of whom simply have not worked with these types of systems before personally) ascribing all sorts of characteristics to them, and alternatively proferring unsubstantiated claims about the benefits they can provide, as well as unfounded warnings about their "dangers."

It can be a head-scratching experience perusing forums sometimes! The spread of misinformation (unintentional or otherwise) is something we have- and will continue to- work very hard to clear up. It's not simply because we sell botanicals. It's because we are on the cusp of an aquarium movement and are helping foster the development of technique for these aquariums, hoping to dispel many years of misunderstanding and mystery- for the benefit of the entire aquarium hobby.

I consider it as much of an honor as it is our responsibility.

And with all of the discussion and "armchair experts" comes more than just a little confusion, a lot of opinion, and some occasional misconceptions about what botanicals can and cannot do for our aquariums.

Yeah. Confusing.

In this little blog piece, I'd like to focus on what botanicals cannot do! 

Yeah, you heard me correctly.

Maybe I should clarify: Let's talk about what they can't do as completely as many hobbyists tend to assume that they can! We're just gonna look at four things- but these are topics which seem to come up again and again and again, so I feel there definitely worthy of a closer look!

IMOH, it's very important to clear up lingering (or emerging) misconceptions about the use of botanical materials in aquariums. Since our self-proclaimed "competitors" seem more intent on selling stuff than sharing information about it, we'll take the reins on this one yet again.

As in so many areas of the hobby, the more people become involved in the process of utilizing botanical materials in their aquariums, the more we break through and clear up some of the confusions about them...Now, it's not like anyone was intentionally trying to mislead people over the years- I think it was more of a matter of us just making lots of assumptions and drawing conclusions from widely varying sources- often with questionable validity, experience, or accuracy, or "regurgitating"  second or third hand information from tangential topics.

Not a great way to help foster a hobby movement, right?

So, let's get down to it!

In no particular order, here are some concepts that I think we need to address:

1) Botanicals cannot soften your water! If I had a dollar for every question I've fielded on this topic.... Perhaps this is the most misunderstood thing of all about botanicals? Maybe. I think it's easy to see how this one got started and tends to hang around a bit in forums and such: Most botanical materials contain tannins and humic substances, which can drive down the pH in water with little to no carbonate hardness.

 And of course, the tinted, soft acidic water in many natural habitats often has an abundance of leaves and botanicals present. I think that this gave a lot of hobbyists the impression that you could simply add some of these materials (leaves, etc.) into your tap water and create "Rio Negro-like" conditions easily!

Now sure, humic substances, tannins, and other compounds which color the water will be imparted to it when you add botanicals...

Yet, that's really only half of the story.

Botanicals cannot reduce the hardness of the water. This can only be accomplished with reverse osmosis or ion exchange ( a process in which calcium and magnesium ions are "exchanged" for sodium or potassium ions.)

Reverse osmosis is a water treatment process which relies on a membrane which has pores large enough to admit water molecules, yet "hardness ions" such as Ca²⁺ and Mg²⁺ remain behind and are flushed away by excess water. The resulting product water is thus called "soft water"-free of hardness ions without any other ions being added. 

There is no botanical, leaf, or substance you can add- natural or otherwise- directly to your water to soften it. 

And just because you toss in a bunch of catappa leaves, Alder cones, or whatever into your aquarium filled with un-altered tap water, it doesn't mean that the pH will plummet to Amazonian levels. The impact of these materials on pH is limited in water with significant carbonate hardness.

And this dovetails nicely with our next topic:

2) Tinted water is not necessarily acidic. Once again, another assumption that no doubt arose from the aesthetics of blackwater itself. And it is easy to see how it got started...Much like the misconception that botanicals soften the water, it was often assumed by hobbyists that the brownish tint imparted to the water by leaves and botanicals somehow implied that it is "soft and acidic."  I mean, "If it looks like the Rio Negro, it must be just like the Rio Negro! Right? Um, nope.

Yes, once again, there is more than meets the eye.

Botanical materials contain substances that can reduce the pH in water with low to negligible carbonate hardness. However, the tannins, which are the substances which tint the water, cannot "overcome" the Calcium and Magnesium ions, and drive down the pH significantly in water with high levels of these carbonate hardness present. It simply is putting more materials into the water (which are often detectible by TDS meters in aquariums).

Color is simply not a reliable indicator of the pH and other characteristics of the water. And, as we've discussed before, there are natural aquatic habitats, such as the Tapajos, which have essentially clear water, yet are rather soft and acidic. 

FINAL THOUGHT ON THIS TOPIC:  If you want to create soft, acidic blackwater conditions with botanicals, you need to invest in a reverse osmosis/deionization unit, or use RO/DI water in your aquarium. 

Okay, moving on to our final common misconception...

3) Catappa leaves can "cure" fish diseases. Well, this is one of the favorites which has been perpetuated for years (often by people who sell leaves online and elsewhere -hey, I'm in that group, huh?)- and it actually has some degree of validity to it. However, it's not a damn "cure all"- please get that out of your head once and for all. 

It has been known for many years by science that botanicals like catappa leaves (and others) have substances in their tissues which do have some potential medicinal functions, like saponins phytosterols, punicalagins, etc.  Fancy names that sound really cool- and these are often bounced around on hobby sites as the "magic elixir" for a variety of fish ailments and maladies.

Now, I can't entirely beat the shit out of this idea, as these compounds are known to provide certain health benefits- in humans. and for a long time, it was anecdotically assumed that they did the same for fishes. And believe it or not, there have been scientific studies that show benefits to fishes imparted by substances in catappa and other leaves.

I stumbled across a University study conducted in Thailand with Tilapia  which concluded  that Catappa extract was useful at eradicating the nasty exoparasite, Trichodina, and the growth of a couple of strains of Aeromonas hydrophila was also inhibited by dosing Catappa leaf extract at a concentration of 0.5 mg/ml and up. In addition, this solution was shown to reduce the fungal infection in Tilapia eggs!

And it is now widely accepted by science that humic substances (such as those present in Catappa leaves and other botanicals) are thought to have a wide range of health benefits for fishes in all types of habitats. We've covered this before in a great guest blog by Vince Dollar, and the implications for the hobby and industry are profound. Although they are not the "cure all" that many vendors have touted them as, leaves and other botanicals do possess a wide range of substances which can have significantly beneficial impact on fish health.

It's long been known that fishes from many blackwater environments seem to have relatively little resistance to many diseases present in aquariums when first imported. Anecdotally, a lot of fish importers and breeders report better acclimation periods and fewer losses of "blackwater-origin" fishes when held in aquariums which utilize catappa leaves and other botanical materials.

Coincidence? I don't think so. "Cure-all?" Definitely not.

Now, I would definitely say that utilizing botanicals and leaves in your aquarium can offer some potential health benefits to your fishes. However, once again, I'd stop well short of presenting them as some sort of "magic elixir" that can cure fish diseases with the reliability of a round of antibiotics, or whatever. 

Rather, I think that there are some possible prophylactic health benefits for your fishes by utilizing these materials in the aquarium. I would not, however, utilize leaves and botanicals in aquariums as the sole means of curing or preventing  fish diseases. However, in my opinion, when fishes are kept in a botanical-style aquarium in which other basic components of aquarium husbandry (ie; regular water exchanges, careful stocking, and good overall maintenance) are employed, they could provide a more healthy overall environment for many species of fishes.

4) Botanical-style aquariums are difficult to manage. As botanical materials decompose in the aquarium, they degrade the water quality. This is another popularly-embraced idea which I can't entirely brush off, because there is some validity to it, and it would be itotally rresponsible of me to dismiss it outright. This sort of goes hand-in-hand with our first "myth", but it deserves a bit of its own discussion.

Let's face it- when you have materials of any type breaking down in the aquarium, they are part of the bioload- and that requires an appropriately-sized population of beneficial bacteria and fungi to break down these materials without adversely affecting water quality.

This is not some abstract concept, unique to our area of interest. It's a "universal constant" in aquarium keeping.

We've written about this idea many, many times here in "The Tint", and talked about the "ecosystem" aspect of working with this type of aquarium quite a bit. In addition to husbandry, part of the game is accepting- indeed, encouraging- the idea of having these "natural partners" in maintaining a healthy aquarium.

Now, that being said, it would be utterly irresponsible of us to say that you can simply add tons of stuff to an aquarium- specifically one that has been in a stable existence for some time- and not be concerned about any impact on water quality. That's part of the reason why we repeatedly plead with you to go slowly when adding these materials to an established tank, and to test and gauge the impact on your water quality.

Going slowly not only allows you time to react- it gives your bacterial and fungal population the opportunity to grow and adjust to the increased bioload. These organisms can go a long way towards creating a stable, healthy botanical aquarium environment...But they can't work miracles- and they can't do it alone. And of course, common sense husbandry procedures, like regular water exchanges, use of chemical filtration media (activated carbon, PolyFilter, etc.) give you an added layer of "insurance." A healthy dose of common sense and judgement goes a long way towards a successful outcome! 

Now, I'll be the first to state it. In fact, I will guarantee (something I rarely do) that you will kill every fish in your tank if you throw large quantities of botanicals into an existing aquarium without due regard for what they can do, how they function, and what is required of you to manage such a system. Basic understanding of the habitat your trying to replicate, the nitrogen cycle, pH, and aquarium management practice are all essential.

Don't f---k with Nature. She'll kick your ass.

Simple as that. Not pretty. But I think we can all understand that. If you're not up to the pleasurable effort of reading up on this stuff before you attempt a botanical-style aquarium, you have no one to blame but yourself when you fail.

So, pushing back against some of those long-held misconceptions about the botanical-style aquarium will hopefully encourage the uninitiated to give this whole "twigs and nuts" thing some due consideration. We as lovers of this type of system need to do our best to share the realities that we understand from personal experience, and to encourage others to give them a shot.

I can't help but reiterate once again that blackwater, botanical-style aquariums are no more difficult to set up and maintain than any other type of aquarium.

They do require understanding of what's going on and what is involved, observation, and upkeep...And, if you're not careful about following good common sense procedures, you can occasionally have a bad outcome. Shit happens- and it's not always good. That's part of the game. It's the reality of forging into new territory, but it contributes to the body of knowledge that is the aquarium hobby.

Okay, so that's my top four misconceptions about botanicals and botanical-style aquariums.

Of course, there are many others which arise from time to time- but those are "the big four" that we seem to hear about a lot. And, as we've seen, these are not entirely erroneous. However, it's important NOT to make assumptions about botancial materials, and to assume that they are "miraculous things" we can add to our tanks to do achieve smashing success.

The fact is, we still don't fully understand all of he affects- mostly good- but some possibly not so good- about the use of botanicals in aquariums. We have seen a LOT of instances of seemingly "spontaneous" (or at least, rather rapid) spawnings of fishes which have otherwise eluded the aquarists' efforts- shortly after introducing botanicals to their tanks.

Is this a result of some "substances" present in the botanicals? Is it a lowering of the pH in a softer-water aquarium? IS it those humic substances? Shock or some type of stress response? (!) Or could it be just a coincidence? It could be all of the above- however, I must admit that the number of times we've seen and heard this happen to us and others leads me to believe that there literally IS "something in the water!" Exactly what, of course- and how it influences these events is yet to be fully determined! 

And isn't that just the kind of stuff that keeps hobbyists coming back for more...searching, experimenting, tweaking?

Yeah, it is.

And with more "technique" than ever before starting to replace the "dump and pray" method of using botanicals in aquariums, we're seeing more and more interesting results that simply go beyond just enjoying the unique aesthetics offered by blackwater, botanical-style aquariums. We're starting to see some interesting effects on the health and well-being of many species of fishes. We're learning about the value of replicating (to some extent) the natural conditions which our fishes have evolved under for eons.

And perhaps most important- we're taking a good, long look at many aspects of these precious- and often endangered- natural habitats. This search for knowledge and appreciation of nature will not only benefit the hobby, but quite possibly the ecosystem of our home planet, as we gain a better understanding of the dynamics of blackwater habitats and the need to preserve and protect them as havens of life.

Wow.

Oh, and we're having some FUN, too!

We're learning...together.

Breaking through the barrier of assumptions, hyperbole, misconceptions, and fluff that has often clouded this tinted world before we all came together and made a real effort to understand the function as well as the aesthetics of this dynamic, engrossing environmental niche. 

Keep sharing your experiences- both good and bad.

Stay studious. Stay excited. Stay open-minded. Stay skeptical. Stay resourceful. Stay careful...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Another place and time...

As I think about the next aquariums I'm going to create, I find myself most interested not so much in a specific locale, as I am a "time." In other words, the season. 

And all of the unique environmental dynamics and aesthetics which accompany it.

An aquarium which represents a time as much as it does a place. And evolves from there over an extended period of time.

When you think about it, this type of approach is quite interesting. Consider the differences in forest floors, grasslands, and even streams themselves at different times of the year. Varying water levels, chemical composition, temperatures, and even the types and quantities of terrestrial materials, plants, sediments, and rocks present will have a huge impact on the aquatic environment.

With such dynamic habitats to replicate in our aquarium, it seems to me that we should spend a lot more time exploring the way these habitats look and function at various times of the year. With influxes of terrestrial materials and pulses of water, there are a lot of variables in the environmental conditions from season to season, and the impact on the life forms which inhabit these niches is significant and interesting.

We should be recreating the conditions and the "function" of these habitats in our aquariums, to the best of our capabilities, as there is no doubt so much to learn from them.

Even the most basic variations in an aquarium habitat, such as the water level or temperature, are known to trigger reactions and behaviors such as spawning in many fishes. We've known this for some time, and breeders have done this sort of manipulation in controlled breeding tanks for generations. What are we not incorporating these changes- or at least, setting up aquariums to replicate various seasons- as a regular part of our hobby?

Well, some hobbyists are trying to capture the look, which they often do splendidly- but I wonder if they are actually attempting to recreate some of the dynamic conditions- the function- of these habitats- and managing them long-term in their aquariums. I hear very little of this, to be honest. And, with such a growing interest in biotope aquariums, and talented aquarists attempting them, it often leaves me scratching my head as to why this is not so.

The environmental data from many of the wild habitats we obsess over is readily available if you depart from the usual hobby articles and deep dive into research papers which are abundant online (Google Scholar, Research Gate, and many other places, for example).  Sure, it might be more esoteric, "dry" reading- but once you get into this stuff, you'll find a treasure trove of information you can assimilate into your hobby. Most of these papers give not only location date, but the time of year, and detailed environmental conditions such as redox, light intensity (as PAR) and water movement that go beyond just pH and water temp.

The sort of genesis of this piece was based on a DM discussion I had with a member of our community, who questioned why I don't seem to speak more highly of, and (in particular) embrace the "culture" of some of those biotope aquarium contests. He felt that they were "right up my alley", and that it would be a natural for me to essentially sing their praises...and it was accompanied with some "constructive criticism" about why he thinks we should be more active with them than we are.

And he had some interesting points, but overlooked some fundamental ones that have sort of helped me formulate my position on such contests. Like, I'll just come out and say it...The attitude surrounding many of these contests just makes me want to vomit. Really. The work is great. Most of the people who enter and run them are wonderful and talented. Yet, there is a weird vibe, IMHO, which permeates them and simply turns me off. There. I said it. That's why I'm not running into the arms of these contests 24/7. I'm simply being brutally honest with you, as I have so many times here.

And sure, there is much good that comes out of these contests...but I think that there is substantial room for improvement.

Now, I realize that some of the biotope aquarium contests have entries which will be titled "Rio______, small tributary in November", or what not. And they are typically fabulous work, done with care and talent. They look great! And the aquarium is typically a nice representation of the habitat in question, accompanied by a tortuously detailed description of the wild habitat (written in that same "obligatory" fashion as those college term papers I used to dread...) And the 'scape is supposed to conform to some strict classification for the type of biotope the aquarium is purported to represent, which I suppose is cool. 

I guess. 

Hey, maybe that's another reason why I don't like these contests? They're like a flashback to everything I hated about school, lol.

All of this effort is great, and shows tremendous research and dedication. I applaud anyone who enters one of these draconian contests (yeah, I'm in full-on rant mode now) because they certainly do emphasize a bit of understanding of the habitats our fishes come from. I praise the contest organizers for that. Yet, for all of the emphasis on "XYZ River in October", does the aquarium represent just the look, or is there an attempt to represent the function of the habitat?

To really get down and dirty and sort out the fact that said river or tributary might have more turbidity in October, due to runoff from it's mother stream, or from a rivulet running through the forest. And this results in more algal growth, lower pH, or whatever. Stuff that not only influences the wild habitat, but has an impact on the creation and management of the aquarium as well. Over the longer term. 

That's where the real magic lies, IMHO.

I mean, for all of the pretentiousness of the judging and accompanying criticism entrants receive (yeah, I think there is some), many of these contests simply fall back on the look of the biotope. You almost never hear about why there is more turbidity in the water in that habitat in certain times of the year, why the substrate has more silt or soil in it during the Summer, or whatever. And even less about how the aquarist actually manages said aquarium over the long haul.

Damn, I keep saying that, huh?

Okay, so I'm being a bit hard on the contest culture, I know. And almost any time anyone offers a personal opinion on this stuff, the defenders and haters come "a-callin'. This little "side rant" isn't really about hate or jealousy or what not. That's not the intent. You asked, and I'm explaining why I feel the way I do about soem of this stuff. And offering alternatives and suggestions. I don't "hate" them. The reality is that I greatly admire what they do-the talented work of the entrants, the efforts of the organizers, and more important, the emphasis on education they try to bring to the table. That's hugely important and cannot be understated.

Calling attention to the wonders of Nature is a big deal.

I suppose my problem with them is (liek so many things in the hobby), a dislike for attitudes.

As usual, I have great disdain for the pretentiousness and attitudes that often accompany these things, because I feel that they actually discourage some talented people from sharing their work with the world. And I think that so much effort is spent explaining why an entrant has to fall its on a specific category and such that we tend to see these become (again, in MY opinion) little more than very highly researched, well-presented aquascaping contests, with a tremendous attention to the look and conformity to some rules above all else.

Nothing wrong with that, if you represent it as such. Or, if you're into that sort of stuff.

I'd simply like to see more emphasis placed on maintaining and managing of these systems over a longer period of time- not just that they have the correct twigs and rocks when the photo is taken or the video is made. How about a more detailed description of how the system runs, the challenges of representing it,etc.?

Functional aesthetics.

Yes. here I go again, right?

Okay, I'm done "critiquing" these contests. They're cool...just not for me, I guess.

Rather than to unproductively trash contests, I just want to push us as hobbyists in general to go a little further to study the real dynamics of the wild habitats. To see them as more than simple "snapshots" in time, and more of a dynamic, ever-evolving system which can be managed over a long period of time, reflecting seasonal variations I the environment. 

Yeah, I feel that we, as aquarists, can do a lot more to study and interpret the seasonal changes and variations which occur in wild aquatic habitats, in our tanks. We have the means to research, the equipment to use, and the fishes and natural materials to work with.

I think that part of the reason why we haven't seen a lot of these types of aquariums in the past is that they not only defy the pervasive sense of aquarium "aesthetic", but their "form and function" go against the grain in terms of what has been proffered as the "correct and healthy" way to run an aquarium for most of the century. And actively managing a tank like this is more difficult than "diorama- ing" it.

I mean, a lot of botanical materials decaying in an aquarium creates water quality management challenges that we as aquarists have to accept and meet. It's more than just a look. The art of maintaining a dynamic system over the long term, embracing, replicating, and managing the seasonal environmental variations is to me, a fascinating and challenging hobby endeavor. There is so much we really don't know about this, vis a vis aquariums- simply because we haven't approached it liek this very much over the years.

I've learned a ton from playing with my "Urban Igapo" tanks- enjoying the "seasonal" changes, environmental changes, and biological diversity that they bring.

And yeah- they look cool, too.

We can, and should do more in this area. Rather than just managing our tanks as "static" representations of an aquatic habitat, it might be a lot more interesting to run your aquarium on a more dynamic level- truly taking it to another place and time.

And if you want to enter it in a contest? Do it. Crush it.

And really emphasize the art of aquarium keeping, too- and how you manage your tank during these "seasonal changes." Not only will you educate fellow hobbyists (which has always been a great thing about these contests)- you'll challenge them to approach the art of aquarium keeping from a slightly different angle.

THAT seems like a winner to me.

Stay bold. Stay unique. Stay studious. Stay rebellious. Stay considerate. Stay collegial...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Botanical discoveries from our community...

After over 5 years of evolving Tannin Aquatics, decades of playing with leaves and twigs, and (hopefully), being one of the more vocal proponents of botanical-style aquariums, I've definitely learned a bunch of stuff, right along with all of you!

As a result of this, we've been able to determine some characteristics and "behaviors" associated with their use as dynamic hardscape materials.  We may sound absurdly repetitive at times, but you -our customers and fans- want to know all of the ins and outs of this stuff, and we're happy to oblige! And thanks to your inout, we have a lot of good information to share!

We've been able to really "drill down" on a few things and I thought I'd share some of our "pearls of wisdom" based on my personal, and our community's observations on use of these materials in our aquariums:

1) Botanicals are not "forever" aquascaping materials.- We consider them ephemeral in nature. They will soften, break down, and otherwise decompose over time. Some materials, like leaves- particularly Catappa and Guava, will break down more rapidly than others, and if you like the look of intact levels versus partially decomposed ones, you'll want to replace them more frequently; typically on the order of every three weeks or so, in order to have more-or-less "intact" leaves in your tank.

On the other hand, if you're like me, and enjoy the more natural look that occurs as the leaves break down, keep 'em in. You may need to remove some materials if you find fungal growth, biofilm, or other growth unsightly or otherwise untenable.

Botanicals like the really hard seed pods (Sterculia Pods", "Cariniana Pods", "Afzelia Pods"), etc., can last for many, many months, and generally will soften on their interiors long before any decomposition occurs on the exterior "shell" of he botanical.  In fact, they'll Miley recruit biofilms, which almost seem to serve as a sort of "protective cover" that preserves them.

Often times, fishes like Plecos, Otocinculus catfish, and other bottom-dwellers, will rasp or pick at the decomposing botanicals, further speeding up the process. Others, like ornamental shrimp, Apistos, and others, will pick at biofilms covering the interior and exterior of various botanicals, as well as at the microfauna which live among them, just as they do in Nature. 

2) Virtually all botanical materials will impact the color of the water. -You'll find, as we have, that different materials will impart different colors into the water. It will typically be clear, but with a golden, brownish, or reddish tint. The degree of tint imparted will be determined by various factors, such as how much of the materials you use in your tank, how long they were boiled and soaked during the preparation process, and how much water movement is in your system.

Unfortunately, since these are natural materials, there is no set "X pods per ___ gallons of aquarium capacity", and you'll have to use your judgement as to how much is too much! It's as much of an "art" as it is a "science!"

3) If you really dislike the "tint", but love the look of the botanicals-  You can mitigate some of this by employing a longer "post-boil" soaking period- like over a week. Keep changing the water in your soaking container daily, which will help eliminate some of the accumulating organics, as well as to help you to determine the length of time that you need to keep soaking the botanicals to minimize the tint.

Of course, it's far easier to simply employ chemical filtration media, such as activated carbon, and/or synthetic adsorbents such as Seachem Purigen, to help eliminate a good portion of the excess discoloration within the display aquarium where the botanicals will ultimately "reside."

4) You'll notice over time that many of the  botanicals will "redistribute" throughout the aquarium-  Yeah, they're being moved around by both current and the activities of fishes, as well as during our maintenance activities, etc. This is, not surprisingly, very similar to what occurs in Nature, where various events carry materials like seed pods, branches, leaves, etc. to various locales within a given body of water. In our opinion, this movement of materials, along with the natural and "assisted" decomposition that occurs, will contribute to a surprisingly dynamic environment!

5) Your aquarium water may appear turbid at various times- As bacteria act to break down botanical materials, they may impart a bit of "cloudiness" into the the water. Also, materials such as lignin and good old terrestrial soils/silt find their way into our tanks at times. One of my good friends, and a botanical-style aquarium freak, calls this "flavor"- and we see it as an ultimate expression of a truly natural-looking aquarium.

Yeah, the water itself becomes part of the attraction. The color, the "texture", and the clarity  of the water are as engrossing and fascinating as the materials which affect it.

Need a bit more convincing to embrace the charm of the water itself in botanical-style aquariums? Simply look at a natural underwater habitat, such as an igapo or flooded varzea grassland, and see for yourself the allure of these dynamic habitats, and how they're ripe for replication in the aquarium. You'll understand how the terrestrial materials impact the now aquatic environment- fundamental to the philosophy of the botanical-style aquarium.

6) Just like in nature, if new botanicals are added into the aquarium as others break down, you'll have  continuous influx of materials to help provide enrichment to the aquarium environment. - As hinted above, this type of "renewal" creates a very dynamic, ever-changing physical environment, while helping keep chemical changes to a minimum.

The fishes in your system may ultimately display many interesting behaviors, such as foraging activities, territorial defense, and even spawning, as a result of this regular influx of "fresh" aquatic botanicals. You could even get pretty creative, and attempt to replicate seasonal "wet" and "dry" times by adding new materials at specified times throughout the year...The possibilities here are as diverse and interesting as the range of materials that we have to play with!

The whole idea of using botanical materials in aquariums is not entirely new, as it has long been known that these natural materials provide various chemical benefits to the aquarium inhabitants.

However, the idea that these materials can help form the basis of a functionally aesthetic aquarium environment- one in which they form a direct influence on the chemical, physical, and aesthetic environment of the tank- is fundamental to our "practice."

A less rigidly aesthetically-controlled, perhaps less "high-concept" approach in the eyes of some- setting the stage for...Nature- to do what she's done for eons without doing as much to "help it along." Rather, the mindset here is to allow nature to take it's course, and to embrace the breakdown of materials, the biofilms, the decay...and rejoice in the ever-changing aesthetic and functional aspects of a natural aquatic system-and how they can positively affect our fishes.

We're seeing that not only do leaves, botanicals, and alternative substrate materials look interesting- they provide a physiological basis for creating unique environmental conditions for our fishes and plants. We're seeing fish graze on the life forms which live in and among the decomposing botanicals, as well as the botanicals themselves- just like in Nature...And we are seeing the influence- aesthetically and chemically- which these materials assert on the aquarium's environmental parameters.

With more and more hobbyists playing with botanicals and experimenting with as a foundational part of the aquatic environment, we're excited to see what kinds of creative ideas arise out of the botanical-style aquarium movement!

We look forward to seeing what you come up with! Embrace "the tint!"

Stay creative. Stay motivated.

And stay wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Substrate confidential...Another look at the "stuff on the bottom..."

If you're a regular consumer of our content, you know of my obsession with varying substrate compositions and what I call "enhancement" of the substrate- you know, adding mixes of various materials to create different aesthetics and function.

You've likely seen my recent work with with different materials, like leaves, botanicals, clays, and sediments that I've shared with you here and elsewhere. It's an idea that I just can't get away from! In fact, it's something I'm borderline obsessed with!  

Studies have shown that particle sizes tend to decrease the further downstream from the source they are found. Large rivers, such as the Amazon, have beds of shifting sands, slowly transported with the currents. Typically, the larger the item (pebble, rock, or boulder, the longer it tends to stay in one place. So, in a more powerful flow, you're more likely to find larger-sized materials.

The first recorded observations of bed material of the Amazon River were made in 1843 by Lt William Lewis Herndon of the US Navy, when he travelled the river from its headwaters to its mouth, sounding its depths, and noting the nature  of particles caught in a heavy grease smeared to the bottom of his sounding weight.

He reported the bed material of the river to be mostly sand and fine gravel. Oltman and Ames took samples at a few locations in 1963 and 1964, and reported the bed material at Óbidos, Brazil, to be fine sands, with median diameters ranging from 0.15 to 0.25 mm.

There is a LOT to the science of naturally "graded" materials, and you'll have to do some research on the subject. In the end, science can tell you a lot; however, creativity and your aesthetic taste are typically the "guidelines" that you'll embrace to assemble your "slice of the bottom."

However, the physical composition of the substrate materials is but one aspect of these interesting aquatic systems...

The other, and perhaps equally fascinating part of the equation is the story of how the materials reach these streams and are distributed there. Yeah- no pice on the substrate composition of these habitats would be complete without a quick review of the streams themselves and how they arise and function within the broader ecology of a region.

Stream and river bottom composition is affected by a wide range of things, like regional weather, current, geology, the surrounding dry lands, and a host of other factors- all of which could make planning your next aquarium even more interesting if you take them into consideration! 

If we focus on streams, it's important to note that the volume of water entering the stream, and the depth of the channels it carves out, helps in part determine the amount and size of sediment particles that can be carried along, and thus comprise the substrate.

And of course, the composition of bottom materials and the depth of the channel are always changing in response to the flow in a given stream, affecting the composition and ecology in many ways. Lighter materials, such as leaves, sediments, and twigs, will of course be redistributed by current and other factors. And of course, leaf litter beds, as we've discussed numerous times here, are one of the underwater world's most productive habitats- host to numerous life forms, ranging from fishes to fungi.

Some leaf litter beds form in what stream ecologists call "meanders", which are stream structures that form when moving water in a stream erodes the outer banks and widens its "valley", and the inner part of the river has less energy and deposits silt- or in our instance, leaves.

There is a whole, fascinating science to river and stream structure, and with so many implications for understanding how these structures and mechanisms affect fish population, occurrence, behavior, and ecology, it's well worth studying for aquarium interpretation!  Did you get that part where I mentioned that the lower-energy parts of the water courses tend to accumulate leaves and sediments and stuff?

Likely you did! I mean, I'm pretty certain that you did! 

The lower-energy parts of streams are often where the greater population of fishes and food items are found; and, they happen to be relatively simple to replicate in the confines of the aquarium. And the coolest part about this is that you can derive many of the same benefits from these litter beds in the aquarium as are found in Nature!

Permanent streams will often have different volume and material composition (usually finely-packed sands and gravels, with lots of smooth stones) than more intermittent streams, which are the result of inundation caused by rain, etc.

So-called "ephemeral" streams, typically occur only immediately after rain events (which means they usually don't have fish in them unless they are washed into them from more permanent watercourses). This is, of course, just another example of how weather and seasonal events affect not only the composition- but the very formation- of streams.

The latter two stream types are typically more affected by leaves, botanical debris, branches, and other materials. The substrates are typically littered with these materials, which are constantly being redistributed as water flows into and out of them. 

In the Amazon region (you knew I was sort of headed back that way, right?), it sort of works both ways, with the rivers influencing the surrounding land...and then the land "giving" some of the materials back to the rivers...the extensive lowland areas bordering the river and its tributaries, known as varzeas (“floodplains”), are subject to annual flooding, which helps foster enrichment of the aquatic environment.

Although many streams derive their food base from leaves and organic matter, there is a lot of other material present that contributes to its structure. Think along those lines when scheming your next aquarium. Ask yourself what factors would contribute to the bottom composition of the area you're taking inspiration from.

You'll see a variety of bottom compositions in Amazonian and other streams, ranging from the aforementioned leaves and detritus in stream margins, to sand and silt over "cobbles", to boulders covered in algae, to fine patch gravels, root tangles, and even just silt.

You might even say that rivers and streams act like nature's "sediment sorting machines", as they move debris, geologic materials, and botanicals along their courses. And along the way, varying ecological communities are assembled, with all sorts of different fishes being attracted to different niches.

Interestingly, in most streams, the primary producers of the food webs that attract our fishes are algae and diatoms, which are typically found on rocks and wood wherever light and nutrients create optimum conditions for their growth. Organic material that enters streams via leaf fall is acted upon by small organisms, which help break it down.

It is probably no surprise, then, that bacteria (especially in biofilms!) and fungi are the initial consumers of the organic materials that accumulate on the bottom. Like, the stuff many of us loathe. These, in turn, are extremely vital to fishes as a food source. Hence, one of the things I love so much about utilizing a leaf litter bed as a big part of your substrate composition in an aquarium!

Streams which flow over stony, open bottoms, free from natural obstacles like tree trunks and such, tend to develop a rich algal turf on their surfaces.

While not something a lot of hobbyists like to see in their tanks (with the exception of Mbuna guys, some shrimp keepers, and a few true weirdos like me), algae-covered stones and rocks are entirely natural and appropriate for the bottom of many aquariums! Enter a tank with THAT in the next snobby, pretentious international "natural" aquascaping contest and watch the ensuing judge "freak-out" it causes!  Oh, hell YES!!!

Grazing fishes, of course, will feed on and among these algal films, and would be logical choices for a stony-bottom-themed aquarium. When we think about the way natural fish communities are assembled in rivers and streams, it's almost always as a result of adaptations to the physical environment and food sources.

Now, not everyone wants to have algae-covered stones or a mass of decomposing leaves on the bottom of their aquarium. However, I think that considering the role that these materials play in the composition of streams and the lives of the fishes which inhabit them is important, and entirely consistent with our goal of creating the most natural, effective aquariums for the animals which we keep.

So, we've barely scratched the surface of the very bottom...However, I hope that I've helped click on the lightbulb in your head to consider that what goes on "down there" is every bit as important as any other part of the aquarium! There is plenty of scholarly research out there to draw on for inspiration and information to help you divise a plan.

Let's pay a little more attention to the "stuff on the bottom" in both our tanks and in Nature...because there's so much cool stuff to learn!

Stay curious. Stay creative. Stay excited. Stay inspired...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Moving beyond "realism": The next great hobby evolution

One of the things that sort of catches my attention lately is the increasing interest in what is being labeled as "realism" among the "high concept" aquascaping world. Like, taking some cues from natural habitats to incorporate in aquariums. Okay, this is huge, right?

Part of me is totally celebrating the move away from the strange "fantasy 'scape" crap that has dominated aquascaping for years now.

It's an interesting shift. An encouragung one. 

However, the natural-style aquarium lover in me is still wishing we could prod them along a bit more. While it's an interesting and encouraging development, I can't help but observe some nuances in the "movement" which leave me wishing they'd go a bit further. Because the emphasis seems to be on only half of the equation.

Yeah, the interest seems to focus mainly on the look, as opposed to the whole picture; the function.

And yet, there is a push to make their "mountain/canyon 'scapes" more "realistic." Huh? WTF does that mean? I see tons of discussions on this "technique"- a lot of ideas about gluing rock together and gluing wood to rock to create unusual "canyons" and such..urghh!!! And of course, it begs the question to me...Are underwater mountain scenes "realistic" in tropical fish habitats to begin with?

Umm...

Can't these guys ever just look at a stream or something that tropical fishes actually reside in, and try to just kill it replicating that? Does it always have to be a photo of Olympus Mons on Mars, or K2 in the Himalayas, or something  ridiculously non-aquatic that inspires them.  So much talent working on- well, you get my point. Sheesh!

Chill, Fellman. Chill. 

I mean, "baby steps", I suppose- but man, going just a bit further could yield so much more...

I guess it seems like nothing ever satisfies me, right? And who the fuck am I, right?

However...

I sometimes fear that this burgeoning interest in aquariums intended to replicate some aspects of Nature at a "contest level" will result in a renewed interest in the same sort of "diorama effect" we've seen in planted aquarium contests. In other words, just focusing on the "look" -or "a look" (which is cool, don't get me wrong) yet summarily overlooking the function- the reason why the damn habitat looks the way it does and how fishes have adapted to it...and considering how we can utilize this for their husbandry, spawning, etc.- is only a marginal improvement over where we've been "stuck" for a while now.

Some of these people need to just stare at a few unusual underwater scenes for a while and just open their minds to the possibilities...

We all need to go further.

I'm sure I'm being just a bit over-the-top (oaky, maybe QUITE a bit!), but the so-called "nature aquarium" movement seems to have, IMHO, largely overlooked the real function of Nature, so there is some precedent, unfortunately. A sanitized, highly stylized interpretation of a natural habitat is a start...I'll give 'em that-but it's just that- a start.

The real exciting part- the truly "progressive" part- comes when you let Nature "do her thing" and allow her to transform the aquarium as she's done in the wild for eons.

So, yes- It should go beyond merely creating the "look" of these systems to win a contest, IMHO. Rather, we should also focus on the structural/functional aspects of these environments to create long-term benefits for the fishes we keep in them. We should aim to incorporate things like biofilms, detritus, decomposition into our systems, just as Nature does.

That's a real "biotope aquarium" or 'Nature" aquarium in my book.

And, besides all of YOU people-  there is another group of hobbyists that are in a position to influence and inspire the aquarium world to push further- biotope enthusiasts.  I hope that this crowd- who have a lot of awareness about the habitats they are inspired by-will at least consider this "functional/aesthetic" dynamic that we obsess over when they conceive and execute their work, and be more vocal about it.

Decomposing leaves, biofilms, detritus, sediments, submerged terrestrial plants- all have their place in an aquarium designed to mimic aquatic habitats.  You can and should be able to manage nutrients and the bioload input released into our closed systems by these materials, as we've discussed (and executed/demostrated) here for years.  The fear about "detritus" and such "crashing tanks" is largely overstated, IMHO- especially with competent aquarium husbandry and proper outfitting of a tank with good filtration and nutrient control/export systems in place. We've talked about this at least a thousand times here over the years. It's no mystery.

I go further...I want to push people who ply these waters a bit more:

If you're up to the challenge of attempting to replicate the look of some natural habitat- you should be a competent enough aquarist to be able to responsibly manage the system over the long term, as well.

Ouch, right?  

Hey, that's reality. Sorry to be so frank. Setting up a tank just for a contest period, taking entry pics and then tearing it down is absurd, IMHO. Enough of the "shallow mimicry" bullshit that has dominated the aquascaping/contest world for too long, IMHO. You want to truly influence/educate people and inspire them? Want to really advance the hobby and art/science of aquarium keeping? Then execute a tank which can be managed over the long haul. 

And document it like our crowd does. At every phase. Even the "ugly" ones.

Create and manage tank that doesn't polish out the reality of Nature. Crack the code. Figure out the technique. Look to Nature and "back engineer" it. These things can be done.  

You-our community- are doing them right now.

There are many aspects of wild habitats that we choose to replicate, which we can turn into "functionally aesthetic" aquarium systems. Take, for example, the most common hardscape component- wood. It's been a staple of the aquarium world for decades. If we think of wood pieces as more than just "static hardscape"- and consider them as a dynamic part of the habitat- the game changes.

Trees- in their submerged and even fallen state- are more than just "hardscape" to those of us who are into the functional aesthetic aspects of our aquariums. Much more.

The trees present in flooded forest habitats and streams actually benefit fishes and aquatic life forms when they fall. Upon the return of the inundating waters to the dry forests, these fallen trees become an important part of the aquatic habitats, providing multiple benefits.  A fallen tree wedged into a stream bottom provides shelter from the currents. The tree trunk changes the flow pattern of the stream to create eddies which may bring in food and wash away fine silt, allowing formation of gravel beds and the accumulation of leaves and fallen botanical materials. 

Foraging areas are created, in which fishes may find insects, small crustaceans, and fruits and such which come from the terrestrial environment. They provide spawning locations for fishes, and shelter for fry to develop and avoid predators.

That's why fishes are attracted to these aquatic features, contest scapers! Consider that, okay?

Although it might be impractical for many aquarists to obtain really large branches and such to simulate these submerged tree trunks, it would be a most interesting aquascape feature if you could source larger, thicker pieces to recreate this fascinating microhabitat in your aquarium! And entire community of fishes could be developed around (literally) one or two large branches in a modest-sized aquarium.

Toss in a bunch of leaf litter and some botanicals- let them break down and decompose...bam! Instant functional biotope component!

Right?

Well, almost...You've got the look down.

Foster the function! 

Encourage some biofilms, algae, and other epiphytic material to colonize the branches and then you're on your way to a functional representation of this unique habitat!  "Polishing out" and "editing" the "undesirable" aspects of Nature (again, the biofilms, detritus, decomposition, etc.) for the sake of some "aesthetic benefit" is, in reality, counterproductive to long-term aquarium management.

For the "nature aquarium" crowd- please focus on one of Amano's core principles- one which has just been sort of "cast aside" of late- the concept and philosophy wabi-sabi. One that embraces the beauty of transience and natural processes.

Making the mental shift and helping the aquarium world as a whole understand and appreciate the appearance of some formerly misunderstood and feared aspects of aquatic habitats will lead to more than a shallow, superficial interpretation of Nature. It will lead to aquarium interpretations which foster many of the functions which occur in Nature. 

It's about moving beyond looking at even a natural feature and thinking just about how to create the way it looks in our aquariums. It's about looking at that feature and thinking, "How can I utilize this feature to provide the same function in the aquarium that it does in Nature?"

So much to talk about, study, and interpret here.

There are so many unique and compelling aspects of the natural aquatic world that I just know will unlock the secrets of many unique and beautiful fishes which we keep in our aquariums. By providing functional natural aquariums, we're really setting the stage for what I really feel is the next great evolution of aquarium keeping: 

Creating aquariums which replicate, as realistically as possible, the look and function of the aquatic habitats that we are fascinated by.

SO, yeah...there is a lot to be gained when we move beyond "realism."

Go deeper...push yourself just a bit further.

You might just change the entire aquarium hobby. 

In fact, I think you will.

Stay motivated. Stay inquisitive. Stay curious. Stay creative. Stay fascinated. Stay bold. Stay inspired...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

A multifaceted microcosm...

One of the concepts I like most of all when it comes to botanical-style aquariums is how well they lend themselves to fostering a complete community of organisms. Yeah, because of the very "operating system" of our tanks, which features decomposing leaves, botanicals, soils, roots, etc., we are able to create a remarkably rich and complex population of creatures within them.

This is one of the most interesting aspects of a botanical-style aquarium: We have the opportunity to create an aquatic microcosm which provides not only unique aesthetics- it provides nutrient processing, and to some degree, a self-generating population of creatures with nutritional value for our fishes, on a more-or-less continuous basis.

True "functional aesthetics", indeed!

An important part of this little microcosm are fungi.

Yeah, you heard me. Fungi.

Fungi reproduce by releasing tiny spores that then germinate on new and hospitable surfaces (ie, pretty much anywhere they damn well please!). These aquatic fungi are involved in the decay of wood and leafy material. And of course, when you submerge terrestrial materials in water, growths of fungi tend to arise.

Anyone who's ever "cured" a piece of aquatic wood of almost any type for your aquarium can attest to this!

Fungi tend to colonize wood because it offers them a lot of surface area to thrive and live out their life cycle. And cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin- the major components of wood and botanical materials- are degraded by fungi which posses enzymes that can digest these materials! Fungi are regarded by biologists to be the dominant organisms associated with decaying leaves in streams, so this gives you some idea as to why we see them in our aquariums, right?

And of course, fishes and invertebrates which live amongst and feed directly upon the fungi and decomposing leaves and botanicals contribute to the breakdown of these materials as well! Aquatic fungi can break down the leaf matrix and make the energy available to feeding animals in these habitats.

And look at this little gem I found in my research:

"There is evidence that detritivores selectively feed on conditioned leaves, i.e. those previously colonized by fungi (Suberkropp, 1992; Graca, 1993). Fungi can alter the food quality and palatability of leaf detritus, aecting shredder growth rates. Animals that feed on a diet rich in fungi have higher growth rates and fecundity than those fed on poorly colonized leaves. Some shredders prefer to feed on leaves that are colonized by fungi, whereas others consume fungal mycelium selectively..."

"Conditioned" leaves, in this context, are those which have been previously colonized by fungi! They make the energy within the leaves and botanicals more available to higher organisms like fishes and invertebrates! 

It's easy to get scared by this stuff...and surprisingly, it's even easier to exploit it as a food source for your animals! This is a HUGE point that we can't emphasize enough.

And of course, the same goes for our buddies, the biofilm.

And biofilms are interesting, in and of themselves. Understanding the reasons they arise and how they propagate can really help us to appreciate them!

We've discussed this before; however, let's revisit the process one more time:

It starts with a few bacteria, taking advantage of the abundant and comfy surface area that leaves, seed pods, and even driftwood offer. The "early adapters" put out the "welcome mat" for other bacteria by providing more diverse adhesion sites, such as a matrix of sugars that holds the biofilm together. Since some bacteria species are incapable of attaching to a surface on their own, they often anchor themselves to the matrix or directly to their friends who arrived at the party first.

 These bacteria and fungi are all participants in a rather grand process of nutrient utilization- both in Nature, and in our aquariums. And it all starts with adding botanicals and leaves to our systems. This is absolutely analogous to what happens in Nature.

Of course, the process ultimately leads to physical breakdown and/or fragmentation of the leaves and botanicals into smaller "pieces", which possess larger amounts of surface area for microbial attachment.  Extensive ecological studies done by scientists specifically in regard to leaf litter have yielded a lot of information about this process.

During the dry season

It's always interesting to look at new ideas in this hobby...or even not-so-new ideas from a slightly different angle, isn't it?

We have written and discussed the flooded forests of South America many times here in "The Tint", and they are among the most compelling habitats we have encountered during our search for interesting ones to replicate in aquariums. 

South American forests and "swamp forests"are seasonally inundated with freshwater. These forests are perhaps Nature's finest example of the interaction between land and water, and how diverse and surprisingly productive aquatic environments arise in these habitats. 

The two types of inundated forest areas are blackwater systems known as igapó, and the counterpart "whitewater" systems called várzea.

The igapó is characterized by seasonal inundation caused by a large amount of rainfall, and thus, in some areas, trees can be submerged for up to 6 months of the year. We've touched on the idea of replicating this habitat in "The Tint" some time ago. These forests have sandy, rather acidic soils with a very low nutrient content. The rainwater combines with the humic substances and tannins contained in the soils and the forest floor materials that are found on them.

The acidity from the water corresponds to the acidic soils of these forests. They are the more nutrient poor than a comparable várzea forest, carrying less inorganic elements, yet higher concentrations of dissolved organics, like humic and fulvic acids. 

Amazonian várzea forests are flooded by nutrient rich sediments, and thus are very productive environments- some of the most productive in Amazonia. They are flooded by whitewater rivers, which inundate fertile alluvial soils within várzea forests, which helps explain some of the higher nutrient concentrations found in these waters, as opposed to the nutrient-poor blackwater which inundates and characterizes the igapó areas.

Obviously, a flooded forest floor has a lot of leaves and botanical materials accumulated, which influences the "topography" and water chemistry of this habitat. Often, these areas form channels a few meters wide, and result in "meanders", which are pockets of water that course away from- and back to- the main streams. During the low water season, you'll see the leaf litter accumulating in these "meanders", with the diversity of life they contain.

These terrestrial habitats are "seasonally inundated" by the significant rainfall common to this region; some of these forest floors may be submerged for almost half a year...that's a LOT of water! Like, 3%-4% of the water in the Amazon Basin at any given time...And these are precious, diverse natural treasures, so replicating one in the home aquarium is another way to learn and teach more about them, isn't it?

There are two seasons in the Amazon; the dry and the wet. From December until May/June we have the wet season, and from July until November there is the dry season. The low water period is from August until February, and the high water period is from March until July.

Igapo forests have a pretty significant amount of trees; one study found that over 30 species of trees are found in these areas, creating coverage of something on the order of 30%, and are known to have soils that are acidic in nature, yet low in nutrient content (because they don't receive a seasonal influx of nutrients like regions called "varzea", which are flooded by sediment-laden "whitewater" rivers)!

The water depth can vary from as little as 6-8 inches ( 15.24cm- 20.32cm), to almost 20 feet (6.96m)!  This influx and egress of water can happen fairly rapidly. And of course, as a result of the materials the waters flow through, they have a lot of tannin and humic substances in them from all of that soil and plant materials.

As aquarists, this dynamic environment is incredibly inspiring! The "igapo" habitat can really help you flex your creative muscles, offering the dual challenge of creating something unique, while holding back and not going too crazy with tons of detail. Rather, a fewer, stronger elements, punctuated with some smaller details provided by the botanicals, can create an engaging, mysterious, and inspiring display!

As we've discussed before, Amazonian leaf litter beds are home to a surprising variety and population density of fishes, with some studies of igapos yielding as many as 20-40 different species of fishes in a 200 square meter area!  And, the majority of the specimens found in these studies are small, averaging around 40mm-100mm (1.5"- 3.9") in length!

This is interesting from an aquarist's perspective, because we can create a pretty dynamic and interesting environment, with lots of cool small fishes, if considerations are made for tank size, filtration and husbandry. 

That was the basis of my "urban igapo" idea- starting out with a dry, "terrestrial" habitat and gradually flooding it to simulate the seasonal inundations which these habitats go through annually. I've done this whole cycle now something like 14 times in 3 different aquariums, nuancing various aspects like soil composition, planting, and fish stocking along the way.

It's become one of my fave projects, and I hope to see many of you playing with the idea, too!

I think that it's not only simply an enjoyable "hobby within a hobby"- it's a dynamic that we can can and should learn more about. When we flood and desiccate an aquarium, attempting to replicate this cycle, we have to learn to manage a number of different dynamics, ranging from varying levels of nutrients, to nitrogen cycle management, to stocking with fishes.

The seasonal dynamic is broad-reaching and multi-faceted in the aquarium, as it is in Nature.

We know this from our extensive research and discussion on this habitat. However, have we as aquarium people given much thought to the habitat during the dry season?

The forest floors are littered with leaves and seed pods from the overhead forest canopy. With some much material on the forest floor, the potential for a dynamic ecosystem in both the wet sand the dry season is assured!

Conceptually, this is absolutely ripe for replication in the aquarium, isn't it? Thinking of your aquascape on a 365 day basis changes your perspective. Understanding that what you are trying to recreate in an igapo-inspired aquarium is a representation of the dry forest floor, inundated by water. 

Think "dry forest floor" when you construct the hardscape, and this will influence what your aquarium looks and functions like when you add water! 

And of course, when the rains return- that's when the real magic happens!

The formerly terrestrial environment is now transformed into an earthy, twisted, incredibly rich aquatic habitat, which fishes have evolved over eons to live in and utilize for food, protection, and spawning areas.

All of the botanical material-shrubs, grasses, fallen leaves, branches, seed pods, and such, is suddenly submerged; often, currents re-distribute the leaves and seed pods and branches into little pockets and "stands", affecting the (now underwater) "topography" of the landscape.

Leaves begin to accumulate.

Soils dissolve their chemical constituents- tannins, and humic acids- into the water, enriching it. Fungi and micororganisms begin to feed on and break down the materials. Biofilms form, crustaceans multiply rapidly. Some robust varieties grasses hang on for extended periods of time during this inundation.

Others go into a sort of "dormant" phase, "browning out" and awaiting the time when the waters will recede and once again turn the igapo into a terrestrial forest floor. 

In this rich, highly dynamic environment, the fishes are able to find new food sources; new hiding places..new areas to spawn.

Life simply flourishes.

Each time I flood my "Urban Igapo" systems, I am utterly fascinated by how life manages to "sort it out" to not only "make it though", but to thrive. It's really cool to see the many microorganisms swimming around in the aquarium, obviously feeding among the submerged grasses and other materials.

Now, of course, I'll be the first to tell you that what you get out of this process is not what I"d ever label as a "conventional" aquarium system. Because of the high level of nutrients, dense growth of terrestrial grasses/plants, and rich terrestrial soil, it's certainly not a "recipe" for an aquascaping contest winner!

And yeah- it's not intended to be. This is not just about cool, "Instagram-ready" aesthetics. Sure, these "Urban Igapo" systems look very cool! (And, yeah, they're pretty damn sharable on social media- I'll give you that much...). However, it's much more than that. The focus here is on studying the function and dynamics of this unique environment in the aquarium.

If you're only looking for perfect, static aesthetics, you're bound to ultimately be disappointed, because- just like in Nature- the terrestrial plants will ultimately slip into a "dormant" phase, where they aren't all "crisp and green." They become stringy, limp, and brown over time. That being said, I personally find this "look" kind of cool...I think that you might, too, when this is considered in context.

Now, again, this is easily confused with, and I supposed comparable to a "dry start" planted aquarium or the "Walstad method" on a superficial level. However, remember that we are talking about terrestrial plants and grasses, as well as soils without any kind of "sand cap."

Sure, you can utilize some emergent-tolerant aquatic plants in your "Urban Igapo"- I've done this a few times with great success, and the added benefit that they typically look as good in the "terrestrial" phase as they do in the "aquatic" phase.

Of course, you could also use riparian-type plants, like Sedges and such, which can tolerate- or even requireimmersion and very moist soils for long-term health and growth. Some species of these plants are indeed found in such temporal environments in Nature, so it goes without saying that you should experiment with them in the aquarium, too!

Now, sure, playing with this type of setup brings together hobbyists from a number of disciplines- vivarium/terrarium people, aquarists, planted tank enthusiasts, botanical-style aquarium lovers (that's US!), etc. Now, sure, each party will have their own unique "take" on this process, as well as accompanying criticisms of the process and management.

However, "putting it all together" is really a fun process!

All sorts of fun variations are possible. Remember, it's not about trying to please some contest judge with an absolutely perfect biotopic representation, or a "ratio-compliant" aquascape. 

And of course, the look of silt, dead plant roots, leaves, random twigs and soil, could with tinted, turbid water is simply not everyone's idea of a cool tank...Although to me, it's simply amazing! 

It's immediately apparent to anyone who sees our tanks that the look is quite different than what has been proffered as "natural" in recent years- but I'd guarantee that, if you donned a snorkel and waded into one of these habitats, you'd understand exactly what we are trying to represent in our aquariums in seconds!

Does it get any better? I don't think so. 

And, it all starts with a dry forest floor!

Stay creative. Stay inquisitive. Stay imaginative. Stay inspired. Stay relentless...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Straight talk...

Okay, you do this sort of blogging/business thing long enough, you formulate some serious opinions. And of course, I've been doing this stuff a long time, and I definitely have opinions (I know that SHOCKS some of you...).  In fact, I am probably too opinionated for my own good. And sharing it widely often gets me into trouble, but, hey.

I mean, I'm the guy with all of the weird ideas, so...

Over the years, in my little clique of fish geeks, I've sort of developed the reputation of being everyone's fish-keeping confidant. Call me nurturing, or whatever, right? And, doing this blog/podcast, running Tannin, and getting out there on social media have only sort of amplified this sort of "Scott is availabile" thing.

I know a lot of you turn to me for advice, discussion...a shoulder to cry on...and for botanicals and stuff, too (well, that's a good thing!). And I'm privileged to do it- and always happy to help when I can. Like Mary Poppins, most of my advice is dispensed with a "spoonful of sugar", and it goes down fairly easily, if not, on occasion, controversially.

Of course, there are times when I need to be more blunt and, well- direct.

Today's blog is actually based on a "request" a reader made, wanting me to touch on some of the things in the aquarium hobby that I personally feel most strongly about.  This is always dangerous. 😆 Yeah, I'm sure that many of you will probably think I'm a bit "off" on some of them, and maybe spot on about others. You might even wonder why these things concern me at all, lol.

Yeah, I'm usually pretty easy going.

Lately, however, I've taken a somewhat more "realistic" approach to the hobby, realizing that sugar-coating our own follies and giving the typical "warm fuzzy" isn't always what you need. I realized, both in my personal practice, and in the "advice" I've been dispensing to fellow hobbyists of late, that I've had to take a more pragmatic approach to really do everyone some good.

So the tone of this piece might be a bit more- ahem, "blunt" than what you're used to from me. On the other hand, it's formulated to be helpful, not patronizing, and that means we sometimes all have to get some "tough love" in order to progress in the hobby. It's a distillation of advice sifted from a whole lot of emails and phone calls I've received over the past several years, peppered with a sprinkling of recent personal experience and pinch of "lockdown fever."

So here goes... In no particular order:

Some tough love on aquascaping...

Respect negtive space.

Hobbyists seem to think that you have to fill every available centimeter of your tank with "stuff." Not sure where this comes from, but we see it all the time. I see so many aquascpes that are just packed with stuff...Sometimes it looks cool, in context. Other times, it's just - well...too much. Please...keep some “negative space” in the layout somewhere. Not just for aesthetics…I mean, yes, you should have some open space not covered by plants., rocks, leaves, etc..

Why? For several reasons: One, it gives you existing plants a chance to spread out and grow. Second, it DOES have a good aesthetic thing going for it…We all like to allow our eyes a place to rest from the busy “fruit-stand” appearance of a typical planted aquarium.  Or hardscape, for that matter. And finally, having some extra space gives you room to…expand your collection, if you want! To be a bit "impulsive" (after due consideration for the merits of the fishes or plants that you're considering, of course). Oh, and if you have to glue your wood together to get it to stay, I call bullshit. Gravity or bust. Yeah, that’s right..I said it! (oh, a bonus "micro-rant!")

SO...leave some open space in your tank. You can have some room for future impulse buys! A salute to consumerism (and of course, a tip of the hat to livestock vendors out there!).

Then again, my most loved aquascape (as "voted" by YOU guys) pretty much destroys this f- ing assertion, huh? I mean, it's like, filled! 

Damn it.

So, maybe that whole last one was kind of a waste, WTF?...Sigh. But, think about it...

Okay, here's another one:

Ditch really bad ideas…quickly.

Yup, kind of like the Facebook corporate mantra of “move fast and break things”, I think it’s time we let stuff go that doesn’t work. Life it too short. I am not saying to disregard patience (Lord knows, I’ve written a ton about that over the past few years right in this blog). All I’m saying is that you need to let go of ideas that simply aren’t working out, taxing time, energy, money, space, and “mind power.”

Better to have tried and failed than not to have tried at all…but better to let something that was failing die a quick death than to have it function as a “black hole” of your hobby energy (and budget!). Harsh words coming from me, but they’re true. If it doesn’t work- Kill it. KILL IT! (


(It didn't work. Move on. Next...)

Seek advice and counsel from other hobbyists, but don’t take anyone’s word as THE ultimate. Because the reality is, there is plenty to learn in this hobby from a lot of people. And from yourself, as well! There are people out there in Fish Keeping Land doing stuff you never even heard of, and maybe they are having great results. Does that mean you should listen to everything they say and try to replicate their efforts to the last detail, or embrace all of their philosophies?

Of course not. No way. Take everything- from everyone in this hobby- with a grain of salt. Learn to evaluate aquarium keeping strategies in the context of “Will this work for ME?” Far better than to just blindly follow ANYONE.

Do you.


"There is only one way..glorious conformity to MY way..." (Remember the classic Apple "1984" commercial? Greatest ad message ever, says this Mac lover. Yeah.)

Next...

This one is a bit tough. And perhaps not all that wise to be talking about in the middle of this horrible global pandemic, yet it really rings true. I apologize in advance if anyone is offended by this one- it certainly isn't intended to do that, or be "tone deaf" in the middle of this tragedy. 

However, it's an important message for hobbyists that I think we can understand in this new world of "shelter in place."

If a fish or coral looks bad, and might be sick, or even dying- get it out of the display tank…Yeah- that sounds bad, and it almost sounds like I'm endorsing a "euthenasia" of sorts for fish that don't "look good." I'm not. Don't get it twisted here.  I'm not talking about "getting rid of" ugly fish, or sick fish. And, "ugly" is different than "unhealthy!"  I'm talking about taking action- removing the afflicted animal/plant/coral for treatment. Take all necessary measures to save it.

And soooo many of us take this attitude that fish, corals, or plants will somehow "spontaneously heal" themselves in the display tank...It almost never happens. And the risk of infecting the healthier animals in the aquarium is just too great. Tell yourself that. 

I remember from the coral farming game, that, if you had a struggling coral frag that might have had flatworms, red bugs, or some other pest or disease, you couldn't risk letting it take down other frags and needed to remove it from the system ASAP. Sometimes, you have to make the tough call and not play "Florence Nightingale" to a struggling fish or coral (BUT not while it's in the holding tank or a display). The risks to the rest of the community are too great, IMHO. Collateral damage from meds to healthy specimens from the "treatments" is a very real and problematic thing. Take it out and treat it, while observing the others for signs of the malady.

"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one…” (OMG did I just quote Mr. Spock from Star Trek? Yeah, I did.)

Treat sick fishes outside of the display aquarium whenever possible.

And when it comes to just "doing stuff...."

If you want something on your tank done right…do it…the right way! Yeah. Doesn’t matter if you’re the guy/gal doing it, or if you hire someone else. Just make sure it’s done correctly. I’ve seen so many people put time and effort into fish projects that were not only doomed to fail, but they simply couldn’t work by virtue of design, function, or even budget. or, they take a "shortcut" or employ a "band aid" and figure they'll "fix it/remodel it/upgrade it later" approach.  And they never seem to. And the poorly-executed thing lingers on and on in the system, like a slow-growing cancer.

This sort of dovetails with my third point about killing bad ideas…

Okay, it’s an addendum, really: If you’re not going to do something the right way, just don’t bother. Really. It sounds negative, I know- but you’ll be much happier in the long run, trust me. I see this in reef-keeping all the time. Example: I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard reefers tell me that “(Insert product or regimen here) doesn’t work. I’ve tried it. It sucks.” Upon further investigation, it turns out that the reefer was using the product, but either not in the correct manner, or only part of it, if it was intended to be used as part of a "system.".

You hear that a lot with regimens like trace element supplementation and carbon dosing, two-part solutions, etc. And it's the same in freshwater systems: If you’re using a regimen or system that needs to have multiple components or systems working together, use them! Don't "edit", for goodness sake.! At least not until you've tested and verified effectiveness or lack thereof, for a long time. You can’t expect a complete result out of a partial effort.

Oh, and a final thought on "doing stuff": 
 
Some things you just shouldn't do yourself. Like building aquarium stands or the aquarium itself, if you don't have the tools, time, and necessary skills. But you need things done correctly regardless of who does them! Doing it right the first time is always the "best way!" Expensive or otherwise- it's always more costly to fix the mistake made by going cheap the first time. And yeah, it's okay to pay for stuff that you can't do yourself. Really.

Yikes, it was much quieter and less annoying when I was writing about leaves and stuff, huh? Glad I got this out of my system, though!



Today’s  "bitch-slap" of cold reality, courtesy of your local fish keeping enfant terrible.!

I'm sure you have many other examples; feel free to share them in this safe space! 🤓

Enjoy the rest of your Saturday... Be kind to each other. Have some fun…Be safe.

Stay healthy. Stay engaged. Stay focus. Stay grateful. Stay excited...


And Stay Wet.



Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics