January 04, 2017

2 comments


Assumptions, myths, long-held beliefs...and nuisance algae.

Well, yesterday's piece on overcoming our fear of water chemistry seems to have struck resounding chord! We received a lot of comments, emails, and PM's from aquarists all over the world that were incredibly positive, and many were "confessions" (LOL, seriously) from long-time hobbyists who also candidly admitted their fear of chemistry- and their desire to overcome it! Super cool!

Reader Joshua Morgan told me that he felt I haven't touched on one of the more interesting "benefits" of a blackwater aquarium that many of us have experienced: The fact that the occurrence of nuisance algae outbreaks seem to be relatively rare in these systems. And he's correct, this is an interesting topic that I have briefly touched on, but never really went into detail about.

And it's controversial, too! Nice.

While it would be intellectually dishonest (and just plain untrue) for me to assert that blackwater/botanical aquariums aren't susceptible to algae outbreaks, it is sort of remarkable that we simply don't have massive algae issues in these types of aquarium on a regular basis. I have to admit, that I have never had one of those nightmare algal blooms in a blackwater aquarium...and although it sounds like tannins or some other "substances" in the blackwater would be the obvious "x factor", I'll tell you that I've never had an outbreak in a clearwater aquarium, either. So, from  personal standpoint, I can shout, "My blackwater tanks don't have algae issues!" On the other had, none of my other tanks have had them, either. And I'll wager that neither have any of Josh's, as well!

Damn.

I read a study from the University of Georgia, which tested the idea of algae growth in blackwater streams, to determine if the limiting factor was chemical (nutrient) or light driven...and lo and behold, the study concluded that it wasn't necessarily some magic stuff in tannins and blackwater, as much as it was light limitation! Light-limiting effects of the blackwater itself were discovered to inhibit algal growth in coastal plain streams. As light penetrates the water, high DOC concentrations and suspended solids can scatter and absorb light, impacting algal growth significantly. 

Okay, sounds like a bummer if you want to believe blackwater is "magic", but the study also concluded that blackwater systems were somewhat nutrient-limited, which also affected the growth of algae- although this was not concluded to be the primary factor which inhibited algae growth. In fact, another study I perused about the Rio Negro concluded that it was found that there is a relatively small difference in "respiration rates" between "whitewater" and "blackwater" rivers, and that the presumption that blackwater systems are more "sterile" is sort of overstated. Interestingly, the study also concluded that higher incidence of algal growth occurred in areas in Amazonia where water movement was minimal, or even stagnant, suggesting that, all things being equal, light limitation and water movement are possibly more significant than just higher nutrient concentrations alone!

And that makes sense, if you consider the long-held belief within the aquarium hobby that most plants don't do well in blackwater aquariums "because they don't get enough light!"

Yikes! 

So the long-held aquarium attitude about blackwater having some algal-inhibiting properties is really based on the fact that it's...darker? I mean, every blackwater tank I have ever owned does have some algae present. Although, being a reef guy at heart, every aquarium I own has good water movement. I know that in leaf-litter-dominated aquariums, which I love, I still keep a good amount of flow going. This is interesting, because you'd think a tank dominated by decomposing leaf litter would be an algae farm, right? And yet, I've experienced no more occurrence of algae in the leaf litter tanks than I have in other setups. On the other hand, regardless of what type of system I work with, I'm fanatical about husbandry and nutrient control/export...obviously, another key factor.

Interesting stuff, huh? And since a lot of blackwater/botanical-style tanks are hardscape, with little or no plants, the lighting we are employing is strictly aesthetic, right? So, you're not hitting a tank with decomposing pods and no plants with 14 hours of full spectrum light...Well, that certainly can be part of the reason why this tank magically has essentially little to no nuisance algae, huh? We pin both the praise and the blame for algae on the wrong suspects, I think! 

Man, this deserves more study...a lot of it.

And with more and more hobbyists playing with planted blackwater tanks, we'll have a greater "body of work" from which to draw. For that matter, more botanical, blackwater tanks in general means more material to analyze! 

An here is another thing: As we've beaten into your head relentlessly, in our truly "natural style" tanks, we don't really care if there is some algae in there. We've made that "mental shift" that says it's okay to have some decomposing botanicals, brown water, biofilms, and yeah...algae. Because natural habitats do, too. So it's not so bad, right?

Let's think about algae in the aquarium to begin with...No, not the boring old "This is how algae problems happen in our aquariums..." lecture that you've read on every website known to man since the internet sprung to life. You can find that stuff everywhere. Rather, let's think about how we, as a group, mentally are opposed to the stuff in our tanks. I mean, yeah, I know of no one that really enjoys a tank smothered in algae. It looks like crap, and is a "trophy" for incompetence, in the eyes of most aquarists. In fact, I remember reading once that more people quite the aquarium hobby over algae problems than almost anything else. Yuck!

Well, sure- algae problems caused by obvious lapses in care or attention to normal maintenance, like overfeeding, lack of water changes, gross overstocking, etc. are signs of...incompetence. The occasional algae outbreaks that many hobbyists suffer through have all sorts of other potential causes, and can often be traced to a combination of small things that went unchecked, and are typically controlled in a relatively short amount of time once the causative factors are identified.

Yet, as a group, us hobbyists freak out about algae in our tanks. I can show you a hundred pics of algae in the Amazon and the Rio Negro and say, "See it happens here too! Natural!" and the typical hobbyist will still be rendered speechless with horror.

And I can't even tell you what it would do to one of those "natural aquascaping" contest freaks or judges! People might die. You could be charged as an accessory to murder! 

So, not everyone gets it. Just like brown water.

Algae is the foundation of life, blah, blah, blah. Yet, it's also the foundation for a "cottage industry" of devices, chemicals, and treatment regimens designed to eradicate it. 

So, the roundabout conclusion here is that:

1) Although there are many beneficial substances in blackwater, such as humic substances, tannins, etc., it's inconclusive if they alone are the reason (or even part of the reason) why we seem to have less incidence of algae in our blackwater aquariums. Some research suggests otherwise.

2) The light penetration limitation imposed by blackwater definitely has been shown to decrease algal growth.

Yeah, we have a lot of work to do.

Stay engaged. Stay excited. Stay relentless. Stay open-minded.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

January 03, 2017

2 comments


"My chemical romance.." Facing my fears while learning the ways of blackwater...

"You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself wherever you choose." - Dr. Seuss

As I embraced on my "blackwater journey" years back, I was keenly aware of the importance of monitoring water parameters from decades in the reef world, and my involvement in the large-scale propagation of corals. 

I knew that a certain degree of anal-retentive vigilance could only benefit my blackwater/botanical aquariums, so I employed what I knew- regular water testing- as part of my husbandry routine. 

Now, I admit that my knowledge of chemistry kind of...sucks. I have a heaIthy respect- okay, actually, a fear- of chemistry..I mean, I sort of understand "what I need to know" to run an aquarium, but I know I need to do better. In fact, as adventurers into the blackwater environment, we all need to do a bit more to learn some of this stuff, so that we can provide optimum environmental conditions for our fishes, make meaningful observations, develop replicable, useful techniques, and be able to share our findings with others. During my lifetime aquatic journey, I DID learn a few things about water chemistry, and was, in my own crude way, able to apply some of the stuff I learned in both school and hobby endeavors to my work.

Along the way, I noticed some stuff about low pH aquariums that was sort of unique. In particular, pH and TDS, two measures familiar to me as a reef keeper, are really important, yet applied in a different manner in the "murky" world of blackwater aquariums. A lot of pent-up fear and vague, yet urgent warnings about the dangers of flirting with lower pH and carbonate hardness in aquariums awaited me at every turn when I told fellow hobbyists what I was up to...and of course, I was hooked immediately!

I'm no chemist, but I do have a very, very rudimentary, perhaps even dangerously ignorant- understanding of pH. I remember from chemistry that pH is the measure for the concentration of the hydrogen ions, and that in "neutral" water, the pH is 7. When you increase the concentration of H+ the pH will go down (because pH is the "negative log" of the H+ concentration). That was enough to get me a solid C+ in Chem 101! 

Where things get interesting for us is when you look at pH and its relationship to stuff that scares aquarists, like phosphate (pOH)...stuff that affects water quality (ahh, some of the stuff that the "vague warnings" were all about!). I remember reading somewhere that in "neutral" water, both the pH and pOH equal a total of 14. You can't have more than that. Thusly, when you increase the concentration of H+, the pH goes down, and the pOH goes up...Add I think that is at least one reason for the "freak out" we sometimes encounter when we tell other hobbyists that we're about to run our Altum angel tank at pH 4.9!

Of course, then there is the whole thing about TDS ("total dissolved solids"). Shrimp keepers, in particular, seem to love this measure, and reefers love it, too, because it tells us if it's time to change our RO/DI membranes. I think TDS meters are useful for many purposes...and interchangeably, you could probably get away with referring to them as a "conductivity meter", because they actually measure how easily a current will run through your water. The easier a current can run through the water, the higher the concentration of TDS present in the water. A TDS meter converts the "conductivity" measure to a "TDS" measure. It's not super-precision, in lab terms, but in terms of what we use it for, it's "fit for purpose" as they say, right?

From a water quality management standpoint, hobbyists tend to use TDS as an indicator of how much "stuff" is dissolved into the water (I am SO showing my simplicity and ignorance here, so chemistry guys, feel free to spank me as needed...). The problem with measuring TDS, in my humble opinion, is that it's kind of "vague", in that it doesn't tell you what the "stuff" that's dissolved in the water is. I mean, it could be anything from organic compounds to mineral salts, or hot cocoa mix, for that matter! 

Yet, we all agree that we want as low a reading on TDS as possible in most "blackwater" aquariums, and that's why RO/DI water, with all of it's "mysteries", correlates well with our goals of low pH.  And of course, since some municipal tap water can have TDS as high as 500 or more out of the faucet, it's not a bad thing to measure, despite its "vagueness"- in addition to your other parameters- as an overall indicator of water quality.  I think that a TDS meter is a nice tool to have in our arsenal of stuff to help maintain our aquariums. Now, one weird thing is that you can have a fairly high TDS reading even off your general hardness and carbonate hardness are low, because of the various ions dissolved into the water. Logical, but annoying! Okay, so chemistry IS kind of interesting!

And another thing: I'm not advocating an obsession over every single water parameter, pH included. You'll go crazy "chasing numbers." I've seen dozens of reef keepers proudly obsessed with chasing every number for every parameter, who have some of the shittiest (yup) tanks I've ever seen. Seriously. Just having information without the understanding about what it means and how to apply it to your situation is pretty useless. (So sayeth the fish guy who has a very shaky chemistry background as he pontificates on this very subject...yikes!)

Now, one thing that is interesting and important to grasp, IMHO, is the relationship between lower pH water and ammonia. This, I feel, is where the bulk of the "mainstream hobby freak out" against our blackwater/low pH tanks stems from. As hobbyists, we should understand what we call "TAN"- or "total ammonia nitrogen." Our hobby test kits measure both ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4+, also called "ionized ammonia"), which comprise "TAN."  This has important implications for those of us who maintain a low pH system ( like, below 6.0).

We need to be careful in managing our low pH, blackwater aquariums- particularly when performing water changes. Here's why:  Low pH can have a detrimental affect on the population of nitrifying bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrite.  Because of the acidity  of the water, these bacteria populations can drop so low that the "total ammonia nitrogen" (TAN) level can rise quickly.  No cause to freak out, because if the pH stays low the TAN level is pretty much all ammonium (NH4+), which is the essentially "nontoxic" ("gulp" for saying that!) component of TAN.  (To make you feel better, ammonium, even at high concentrations, doesn't kill fishes!)

If you do water exchanges with lots of alkalinity buffer added to the makeup water, the pH goes up, right? And what happens at a higher pH level? You guessed it:   The  "non-toxic" ammonium can be quickly converted to very toxic ammonia, potentially causing ammonia poisoning to your fishes. I will hazard a guess that this is where many hobbyists have screwed up, and that many the "anomalous deaths" in otherwise "well maintained" low pH tanks were caused by this situation...and that further added to the "lore" that suggests that low pH, blackwater-type aquariums are bad news!  Key takeaway here: Keep things stable. If you're going to keep a low pH, KEEP it that way. Use water for exchanges that has pH values consistent with the water in your aquarium.

So, it's really not that scary, if you understand this concept. Just be consistent, test your aquarium regularly  and your makeup water, and stay cool and calm. This is common-sense aquarium management...stability. Blackwater aquariums are really no more difficult to keep than a reef aquarium, African Rift Lake cichlid tank, or "high tech" planted system. In my opinion, it's mainly the fact that not everyone "gets" or appreciates the unusual aesthetic, coupled with misunderstanding (or lack of understanding) of this environment, which has helped perpetuate the myth that these are highly unstable, difficult-to-maintain, and downright "dangerous" aquariums.

Honestly, I'll tell it like it is:

I think that hobbyists who did not make the effort to understand the dynamic of these type of aquariums and maybe had a bad experience or two in their attempts to keep one just "piled it on."

If you're going to try a specialized aquatic system, you need to learn about the dynamics of the environment you are attempting to maintain. This is not rocket science, or some unique problem related to blackwater systems...it's just how everything is in the aquarium world! 

Ok, off my soapbox now and back to my overly-simplistic, quasi-ignorant attempt to give you more information on the realities of these systems!

Some interesting things about blackwater habitats: The concentrations of magnesium, potassium, and calcium, sodium are very low in black waters. And of course, they categorically have lower pH and lower conductivity (yikes, can we say "TDS" for our purposes?) than "whitewater habitats.  And, as we've discussed before, this has some interesting implications for the animal populations within them. Some animals, like snails, need more calcium than is available in blackwaters to build their shells, so you won't see many snails in blackwater habitats. Blackwater habitats, being lower in nutrients than "whitewater" habitats, are typically less "productive", yet still host an enormous variety of life forms.

 

Okay, my head is spinning now, as I think I've hit my limit on chemistry for the next month! However, it's kind of important, right? I mean, this stuff can make the difference between a wildly successful blackwater aquarium and an average one.

So, as they say, "Don't believe the hype!" Don't be afraid! Make the effort to learn about this stuff for yourself. I didn't do an exceptionally great job of explaining this stuff, but I hope I at least left you with the impression that it's not THAT complicated to find out about and grasp these concepts as they apply to our hobby. Some quality time on the iPad, with a Thai iced tea and some salt-and-vinegar potato chips, is really all that stands between the nasty influence of the ignorant, misinformed hobby "regurgitators of negativity", and you becoming a well-informed, "practicing" blackwater hobbyist!

So, don't be afraid to roll up your sleeves and work with this stuff. There is SO much to learn that it's not even funny! We're really at the ground floor of our understanding of how to manage these unique aquariums, and every one of us has an important role to play, helping to dispel myths, develop and perfect techniques, and add to the body of knowledge of blackwater, botanical-influenced systems.

Stay bold. Stay focused. Stay fearless. Stay...awake!

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

January 02, 2017

1 comment


Guest Blog- John Guest's Marron Research Program Update

(Editor's note: As you know, we're incredibly interested in all sorts of topics related to the application of blackwater, tannins, and humic substances in aquatic systems.  Today's guest writer, Mr. John Guest is an aquatic ecologist, who has extensively studied water quality as it relates to the production of Marron, a crayfish species (actually, there are two species) from South Western Australia. They are the largest crayfish species in the world, growing up to 38.5cm and weighing in up to 2.2 kg. They are considered a "luxury" food product, and the sustainable aquaculture of these crustaceans is a growing industry as demand for them increases.

John is sharing some of his ideas on how water quality management may affect the production and yield of these tasty and much-loved crustaceans. Of particular interest to our readers might be his thoughts on humic substances as they relate to the health of these unique creatures. It's neat to see how some of the concepts we work with in home aquaria have their parallels in the aquaculture world. Enjoy!)

December 2016

 

After more than two years studying and testing many different water bodies I now have strategies and theories that may help marron production and water quality.

My strategies are based on three theories. I have tried to explain my findings as clearly as possible. I have not been in a classroom for nearly thirty years, so please forgive me for any mistakes I have made. I have written this to be used as a discussion paper, please correct and comment on the content.

The reason I am doing this research is because commercial marron farmers cannot get a consistent yield out of multiple ponds/water bodies. The yield difference can be very large (>200%). This is a trend across all farms which have been analysed. The replication of ponds and dams, the hardware (aeration, bird netting, etc), feed (marron pellets) and marron have not eliminated this problem. The production of the marron industry has not increased in the last 15 years and is approximately at 60 tonne per year. I believe one of the main reasons for this is the inconsistent yields, which makes it difficult to estimate income from a marron enterprise. 

 

I have discovered, water bodies/ponds  along side of each other which, are feed the same water, have totally different trace element levels and that the different levels of trace elements seems to affect production by effecting the ecology. I believe that a number of factors may be affecting the trace element levels in the ponds, some of which include previous land use, different soil types, different clays/rocks, different nutrient runoff and different types of aeration.

My theories are an attempt to understand the effects the different trace elements levels including carbon has on the ecology of a water body and the effect it has on marron. 

 

 

Theory 1

 

Promoting the natural productivity of a water body provides the correct nutrition in the early stages of the life of juvenile marron.

 

I believe that promoting the natural productivity of a water body will greatly improve a juvenile marron survival and speed of growth to adult size. As with most animals, poor nutrition in the very early stages of life can negatively affect the growth rate and health of the animal as it develops to adulthood.

 

The promotion of natural productivity is done by first by promoting the microscopic algae called phytoplankton.  I believe phytoplanktons are of the most importance in the very early stage of a juvenile’s life. The promotion of phytoplankton will then help increase the zooplankton (microscopic animals) which becomes food for the juvenile marron as it grows. Phytoplankton creates oxygen for the water body through photosynthesis. I have found phytoplankton can be promoted by adding micro elements rather than adding phosphorus and nitrogen. Currently there is no feed or systems in place to ensure juveniles receive correct nutrition.

 

 

Promote Primary Productivity. 

 

I will use eight micro elements to promote the primary productivity in my marron ponds. Water testing over the last two years of many different water bodies has lead me to come to the conclusion that one or more of these micro elements can be limiting factors in the growth of phytoplankton. There are a number of factors that determine the phytoplankton composition of a water body, one of which is trace elements.  A lack of one or more of the elements in the water can also affect other things in the water such as the bacteria. For example, the Nitrobacter which is responsible for the transformation of nitrite to nitrate is heavily dependant on molybdenum. 

The total sum of the micro trace elements combined I will add will not add up to more than two parts per million. I am aiming to ensure there is at least the minimum amount of each of the micro elements in the water body. If some of the micro elements I am adding are already present in the water body, adding a small amount it addition to what is already present should do no harm. I will add the trace elements in early spring ready for the new spring growth of phytoplankton. I will do tests during the year to check levels. I expect not to need to add any further trace elements as I think added feed and added humic acid (I will write about later) should maintain sufficient levels in water. 

 

I observed good results from my trials last season in my ponds. A student from Curtin University has stared a PhD on the ‘Effects of trace elements on natural productivity and the effect in has on the growth performance of Marron’. It is based on my theory and I am sharing my observations with the student. 

  

Theory 2

 

Lipids and natural oils (triglycerides) are affecting the ecosystem and health of juvenile marron.

My theory is that water bodies with high natural productivity and/or with high feed inputs have the potential for lipids and natural oils to build up to levels under the right conditions, which may have a negative effect on the ecosystem and on the health of juvenile marron.

Lipids and natural oils are naturally produced by the micro/macro algae and added feed pellets decomposing in the water body. Lipids and natural oils can be extracted from micro algae and grains for the production of biodiesel. I believe that if they build up in the water body they can cause health problems and mortalities to juvenile marron due to the lack of development of their digestive system and anatomy compared to adult marron. 

 

The build up of lipids and natural oils may have a negative affect on the some of the important cycles which naturally occur in the water body such as the nitrogen cycle. I suspect this build up is affecting the nitrosamonas and nitrobacter bacteria which are responsible for transforming ammonium into nitrite and then nitrate. If this cycle is interrupted the ammonium will build up in the water and the sediments. The lack of nitrate in the water due to the nitrogen cycle not working correctly encourages Blue Green algae (Cyanobacteria) to become dominate as it can fix nitrogen directly from the atmosphere which enables it to outcompete other life forms. As Cyanobacteria develop it can increase the pH of the water. The increase of pH by cyanobacteria to levels above 9.6 pH will then cause the ammonium to be converted to ammonia which can become toxic to life forms in the water. 

I suspect that the lipids and natural oils do not evaporate in water, which allows them to build up during summer. I believe a build up of lipids and natural oils gradually cause the collapse of an ecosystem. 

Bacteria such as Bacillus produce lipase and other enzymes which break down the lipids and natural oils in the water body and also allowing them to supply the marron with a source of energy. This leads into, and will be better explained in my third theory.

 

 

Theory 3

 

Bacteria affect a marrons energy metabolism.

 

My theory is that marron are often less active in cold water (<15 degrees Celsius) due to the bacteria such as Bacillus in their digestive system being less active due to the colder temperatures as marron are ectothermic (their body temperature is regulated by the surrounding environment). This reduces the ability of these bacteria to convert lipids and natural oils into energy which is needed to utilize nutrients from their food.

From my studies, I have found that most Bacillus have an operating temperature range of between 15 to 40 degrees Celsius. Lower than 15 degrees Celsius they become dormant in many cases. There are certain strains which are now being sold by some companies which will still be active in water less than 11 degrees Celsius. 

What the bacteria do. 

Carbohydrates, proteins and lipids (triglycerides) provide essential nutrients (amino acids) for the construction of living tissue. They also supply the energy to allow the conversion of essential nutrients to living tissue.

The highest energy source comes from Lipids 9.5 kcal/g, then protein 5.6 kcal/g and then carbohydrate 4.1 kcal/g. The lipids are broken down by enzymes such as lipase and protease which are produced by the Bacillus bacteria.  They are broken into a form which allows the energy to be utilized by life forms. Due to the high energy levels produced by lipids it is important that they are utilized as an energy source. If lipids a not converted to a usable form it can have a negative effect on the nutritional value of feed whether natural or artificial (added) due to the lack of energy to convert the essential nutrients to living tissue. 

Lipids and natural oils need to be broken down so that they can be used in the marrons’ energy metabolism in the Krebs cycle, which is how cells get their energy to grow.

The enzymes can also be produced by other bacteria like Pseudomonas bacteria but Bacillus is the main bacteria used in aquaculture. Many, if not all, of the proboitic/microbe products which are sold by companies to improve the health of an aquatic animal and to reduce sludge in a water body contain Bacillus bacteria. They have different strains which have been developed to work under different conditions like temperature, acidy and salinity. The different strains still produce the same enzymes. 

 

In humans, Lactobacillus is one of the sources of Bacillus. Products like Yakult, yogurt and many of the probiotics for human digestion contain Bacillus bacteria. 

Bacillus bacteria need organic carbon as a food source. They do not feed on lipids or natural oils; they produce enzymes (products) that break them down. This means that you can have a water body high in lipids and natural oils with little Bacillus if there is not a source of the right type of organic carbon. Different sources of carbon seem to be more effective at promoting bacillus. Hydrocarbons are very effective at promoting Bacillus. Bacillus is used to help clean up oils spills in the ocean; they appear naturally or can be added. The hydrocarbons are a food source.

 

Promote Bacillus Bacteria.

I am using a number of methods to promote and maintain Bacillus in my water bodies.

Humic acid.

 

The humic acid I am adding to my ponds is extracted from brown coal from South Australia by a company called Omnia. The humic acid is called S90. It is granular and is made to be broadcasted onto pasture or dissolved and sprayed on. There are many different types of Humic acids which are made by different companies from different materials such as peat. I have tested a number of them and believe the S90 is the best for my purpose. It is also rich in trace elements and low in cadmium. 

 

I put 3kg in a 1000 meter square pond when first filled and then add approximately 500grams a week when feeding. I have not tried adding it to large dams yet.  Adding the Humic acid turns the water a dark tannin colour. Humic acid is high in Lignins which is a form of organic carbon and hydrocarbons.  Other sources of carbon used in aquaculture are barley straw and molasses. I suspect that the reason why barley straw may help the health of a water body when added is because it produces a type of organic carbon which promotes Bacillus and molasses may do the same. Another effect of having a source of lignin/humic substances in water is that hydrogen peroxide can be produced in the presence of sunlight.  Hydrogen Peroxide is used in water to control algae. I suspect it breaks down the lipids and natural oils.

 

 

 

 

Bacteria.

A company has just started to sell microbes which work below 11 degrees Celsius which cleans water and prevents build up of excess nutrients. The product is called Aqua-Tron cold water formula. I have spoken to one of the suppliers (who gave a presentation at the MGA last field day) and they said the microbes are a Bacillus strain which works in cold water. I believe if we use and promote Bacillus in cold water the same Bacillus will help marron break down the lipids and natural oils in their digestion system, producing energy for the marron to remain active for longer.

I believe some water bodies already promote Bacillus bacteria naturally in cold temperatures. This might explain why I have seen marron that are still active in water which is lower than 11 degrees Celsius.  In most cases the marron would be very inactive at this temperature.

I am not sure if we need to add new Bacillus strains or just promote the natural Bacillus in the water body.

Trace elements.

The micro trace elements I will be adding to promote phytoplankton will also help provide essential elements to bacteria.

 

Marine Easy Clean. Product; The Water Cleanser.

I am also using a substrate which has been developed to promote and maintain Bacillus in a water body. The product is called The Water Cleanser. It is wax with a source of organic carbon added which promotes and maintains Bacillus bacteria on its surface. The Bacillus grows on the block because the organic carbon, which has been added to the wax block, feeds the Bacillus. The Bacillus bacteria will be promoted for at least 12 months until all the organic carbon has been consumed by the bacteria. The wax block will either enhance the natural bacteria in the water or it can be a substrate for added Bacillus to grow on. The combination of The Water Cleanser and the humic acid I am using will, I hope, promote the Bacillus bacteria in the water body so it can produce the lipase and protease enzymes which then break down the lipids and natural oils (triglycerides) both in the water and in the digestive systems of the life forms in the water (I suspect the lipids and natural oils may have a negative effect on Zooplankton).

The Water Cleanser product was a chance discovery. A Pearl farmer in Western Australia was experimenting with different coatings which he could apply onto his pearl shells to stop the build up of marine growth on his shells. He found putting wax on his shells did not have any negative effects, unlike many other coatings. He then added different things to the wax to try to make it naturally slippery in water so things would not stick to it. He eventually succeeded in making the wax become slippery in water. What he then noticed was that the water quality improved as well. It was then he discovered that it was Bacillus bacteria on the surface of the wax which was making the wax slippery. He had promoted Bacillus which then produced the enzymes which clean the water. He had added a natural unprocessed form of organic carbon to his wax which did not leach into the water. It was the organic carbon in the wax which promoted the Bacillus.  The wax is full of microscopic holes which the bacteria can live in.

  The Water Cleanser possible effects.

 I believe I have seen this product in action in two outdoor tanks. The tanks are 4 metres across and 1 metre deep and in direct sunlight. They have had a healthy population of marron living and breeding in them for approximately three years with no water exchange except evaporation replacement. They both have their own small bio-filters. The only aeration is a small umbrella fountain in the centre. The water is a tannin colour caused from the logs and timber put in the tanks as hides/homes. I have tested these tanks a couple of times over the last two years because the marron and the ecosystem look very healthy.  I was very surprised to find levels of total phosphorus as high as 2.6mg/L and available phosphorus 1.8mg/L in one of the tanks. The other tank had levels of 0.28 mg/L phosphorus. It is widely recommended that phosphorus levels should be less than 0.1mg/l

 

At the beginning of this spring one of the tanks started turning a soupy green. It is the first time this has happened since they were filled. The interesting thing is the tank that started turning green was the tank with the low levels of phosphorus. As there was a chance it could get worse in summer, the tank was drained and refilled. It was around this time I was sent some samples of Marine Easy Clean products for the first time. The owner of the tanks saw the samples of The Water Cleanser and then told me he had put some of the product in the bio-filters of the tanks three years ago. He brought the product at a Marron Growers Association field day in Northcliffe three years ago from a lady who did a presentation to growers. He had not thought to tell me about them as he did not think the product was doing anything. He had taken the blocks/balls out of one of the tanks bio-filters about 12 months ago. It was the tank that now had gone green even though it had much lower phosphorus levels than the other tank The Water Cleanser wax product was in the form of small balls. One of the balls from the good tank was tested and it was found to be covered in Bacillus bacteria. Larger wax blocks are used in bigger water bodies.

 I believe having bacillus constantly in the ecosystem provides a constant supply of enzymes like lipase which keep the lipids and natural oils form building up and then damaging the ecosystem and it also helps provide the enzymes for the marrons digestive system. I think the tannin in the water, which is a form of humic acid, may have also helped the Bacillus bacteria. I have recently become a Distributor for Marine Easy Clean for marron growers who wish to try The Water Cleanser because of what I have been seeing and learning. Trails of the The Water Cleanser have just started in some marron ponds which are part of a PhD which is being carried out on the product. The trials are being completed on the same farm as the trace elements phytoplankton PhD.

I suspect that it is not phosphorus that causes Cyanobacteria (blue green algae) and damage to ecosystems; instead it is the production of lipids and natural oils which come from the increased natural primary productivity which phosphorus causes. If bacteria such as Bacillus are not promoted in the water body by organic carbon the lipids and natural oils build up to levels which cause the problems which we often blame on phosphorus.  

Marron growers have been standing along side of their ponds for many years saying they cannot see why one pond is producing differently to another. I believe this is because you cannot actually physically see the trace elements and bacteria which are the cause of the difference.

 

 

Farm Management Strategies.

 

Management strategies I will implement on my marron farm as the result of these three theories.

 

 

  1. In winter drain water body if possible and wash out. If it cannot be drained, lower the water body as low as possible to let the banks be exposed to the air and sunlight for a couple of weeks. Doing this I believe will either wash the lipids and natural oils out or help the sun and air them break them down.

 

  1. Treat water with 50% Hydrogen peroxide. In the pond which has been washed out I would treat it with 5 litres of hydrogen peroxide per 1000 square meters. If it is not feasible to treat all water bodies at least treat the water bodies which are going to have brood marron or juveniles in them. In a pond which has not been washed out I would treat the water left in the pond before I refill it and then treat the pond as above when refilled. I believe the hydrogen peroxide will break down the lipids and natural oils.

 

  1. Add trace elements. I will then add trace elements; I am working on developing a mix of micro elements which will have everything required to bring the water up to the levels needed. Only a small amount will need to be added. At the moment I add the trace elements separately. 

 

  1. Add humic acid. I will then add 3kg of S90 humic acid for an initial dose and after that add 500grams a week maintain a tannin colour in the water.

 

  1. Add the Marine Easy Clean blocks. I will add 3 blocks per 1000 square metres water body. I will suspend them above diffusers if possible. 

 

  1. Add microbes/bacteria. I am still undecided whether I need to add them. I will possibly give one or two treatments. One at the beginning of summer when the water temperature reaches 20 degrees with a warm water bacillus and one treatment in winter containing the cold water Bacillus when the water drops below 15 degrees.  

 

  1. Unless my ph is below 7 in will not add lime.

 

All of the above will be done in addition with other normal farming practices. I suspect the wax blocks will remain active for a number of years and can be reused each year, only adding one new block a year. I will treat all of my ponds. If I had a large number of ponds and it was too expensive I would treat the ponds which are poor performers each year. I have found on most farms that certain pond/dams will do poorly year after year. I am hoping the above strategies will help improve poor performing ponds and water bodies.

I also hope to learn what the biological indicators are in our water, which will tell us whether the ecosystem is working correctly. Things like swimming beetles and different macro algae for example may be used to indicate the health of an ecosystem. This may save doing expensive water testing.  

Another interesting development which may help marron farmers is, in recent trials at the South Metropolitan TAFE Fremantle. Novacq which has been developed by the CSIRO to replace fish meal and fish oil in feed and has improved the growth of prawns in ponds by 30% to 40% has caused nearly a 100% increase in growth of 50 to 80 gram marron in initial tank trials. Even though this needs further trials before any firm predictions are made, it shows Novacq has the potential to increase marron growth. Below is a link that explains what Novacq is. It is interesting to see they use bacteria/microbes and a food source for them is Carbon. If I were to guess I would say they are using Bacillus or similar bacteria to produce the enzymes like Lipase and protease, which when dried out and feed to the prawn allows them to get the energy out of their food to then convert the essential nutrients to living tissue. 

 

 http://www.abc.net.au/landline/content/2014/s3984247.htm

  

Please be aware that my theories have not been proven correct and my methods of managing my water have never been tested. Every thing I have written could be incorrect. If anyone applies any of my management strategies they do so at their own risk. Only time will tell if they help me grow marron. I have written this document as a discussion paper not as a scientific paper.  Let me know your comments and suggestion.

I have been lucky enough to receive a scholarship from the Premier’s Agriculture and Aquaculture Entrepreneurship Program which will allow me to travel interstate and internationally to further my understanding of water ecology.  

 

John Guest

John Guest Marron Research Program

0447754647

jguest@westnet.com.au

December 31, 2016

0 comments


Assignment: 2017

Wow, hard to believe that 2016 is done...These years go quickly, don't they? As we complete the first full calendar year of operations at Tannin, we barely paused to reflect on how far we've come...partially because we're too busy focusing on the present- and more important, the future! 

Yeah, I've never personally been a fan of so-called "New Year's resolutions; I mean, if you're going to change something, just do it, to coin a phrase. However, I do like having goals and lists of stuff to pursue and accomplish, and I suppose you could make an argument that just creating a list of "to-do's" IS a "resolution" of sorts...

Anyways, here are some of the things that we are interested in finding out more about in 2017- and the best part about this list is it's stuff for YOU- the "Tint Community" can help answer!

Here are just a few:

1) Finding our "how many_________" it takes to: a) lower the pH in a given amount of RO/DI water, b) how quickly it can happen in said water, and c) how long this capability lasts

Now, I have always asserted that using botanicals in your aquarium is not really a "formula", because everyone's water parameters vary, and natural materials probably have some variation in the exact amount of tannins and humic substances a "Coco Curl", for example, can impart into the water. However, it would be kind of interesting to figure out a sort of "average" baseline for various botanicals which could tell us a bit more definitively that, "In 4 liters of RO/DI water, it took ___ Coco Curls 24 hours to reduce the pH of the water by .02" or whatever. I recall someone doing an experiment like this with Alder Cones some years back, and it was most interesting. If nothing more, we'd have a more definitive idea as to how many "_____________" you might need to get a given effect in a typical aquarium. A big project, but one which would be both interesting and enlightening for a lot of hobbyists, we think!

2) A definitive study on how long various leaves last in a typical blackwater aquarium before breaking down.

Again, there will be tons of variables and "over-generalization" will probably haunt the results, but again, a study like this could give us a better idea as to how many of what leaf to use in constructing a leaf litter bed that is both aesthetically practical and functional over the long haul. I mean, I've done very casual "research" on this stuff over the years, and can tell you with a fair degree of certainty which leaves seem to last the longest, but a more careful, controlled study might yield some more definitive information.

3) Long-term detailed water analysis of a botanical-influenced blackwater aquarium.

Now, I'm not talking about every single parameter, but it would be cool if someone other than me had accumulated some long-term "operating data" on their blackwater aquarium. For example, measuring pH, hardness, TDS along over the long term, and correlating them with the appearance, health, and vitality of both the aquarium and livestock can yield plenty of interesting clues as to how these systems "trend." And if you monitor other parameters, such as nitrate, phosphate, and even redox, I'll bet there are some interesting correlations and trends that can be found. A "year in the life" study would be really cool!

4) "Application experiments" for botanicals.

Sounds fancy, but I'm just trying to put a label on the idea of figuring out what are some good alternatives to simply placing botanicals into the aquarium and still getting great blackwater and all of its benefits. In other words, would it work best to employ a fluidized reactor, media bag in a canister filter, or some other method of "actively engaging" botanicals as a form of "filter media", as opposed to simply utilizing them in the aquascape? This could be fun because we might get some really definitive answers about the best way to employ botanicals in bare breeding systems or rearing tanks, for example.

5) "Random Stuff"

There are SO many interesting projects that we can work with to learn more about long-term management of blackwater/botanical tanks. I mean, we've only recently scratched the surface (no pun intended) about creating and managing "deep litter beds" for the long term, and ways to incorporate botanicals into all sorts of systems...I even have this fantasy about using botanicals in a marine tank in a reactor to see if the humic substances they impart could prevent the dreaded "HLLE" affliction.

6) Really studying wild habitats of our fishes and working on more realistic   representations of them, both aesthetically and environmentally.

Some exciting "field work" is already being done by aquarist/travelers, and this will continue to yield valuable information as we study the wild habitats more thoroughly. And of course, there is the whole aspect of simply doing more unique aquascapes, and interesting biopic representations of habitats around the world, some of which we've touched on in "The Tint"- "Igarapes", Asian Peat Bogs, African Mud Holes, "Igapos", and all sorts of other ideas yet to be played with. In my opinion, this is the most exciting area, because studying and attempting to replicate these unique aquatic environments in our aquariums is one of the joys of our hobby. Far more interesting- and beneficial- than replicating last year's "World Championship" aquascape.

So...there you have just a few of the 2017 "to do" items that we can all tackle together. No doubt, you have more of your own. Let's hear about 'em. And let's keep communicating, learning, and most important- sharing- so that the growing, global community of botanical/blackwater enthusiasts can serve as a model for the hobby of what can be accomplished when passionate, dedicated, creative aquarists "go for it."

Bring on 2017! We'll see you on the other side...Happy New Year from all of us at Tannin. 

We're just getting started.

Stay bold. Stay engaged. Stay creative. Stay open-minded.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

December 30, 2016

3 comments


How Kuhli is that? Taking a fresh look at a fish from my childhood

Sometimes it's really fun to look back on the fishes that got me all excited as a kid, back in the days before I ruined everything by taking the hobby so seriously. Yet, progress is progress, and it's fun to resist these old friends and take a look at them in a more contemporary light...Here's the latest in this occasional "series" on the fave fish of my youth!

I think the first truly "exotic" fish I ever owned was a Kuhli Loach (Pango kuhlii or P. semicincta, depending on who you talk to). I added this fish to my venerable 5 gallon community tank when I was around 7 or 8 years old. I obsessed over this fish for months before being able to afford one, and when I added it to the tank, it was one of those memorable moments we get to enjoy in fish keeping. Of course, "having" is not always as good a thing as "wanting", in the case of some fish, and this guy was a bit of a let-down, in that I practically never saw him. Of course, with a finer-grained sand, I knew that the fish would probably bury itself from time to time, but this was more like the rule, rather than the exception with this fish.

(Pic by Kathy Porritt)

Now, part of this could be attributable to the fact that these guys are generally found in small groups in the wild, and are surprisingly gregarious fish. Housing one alone, even in a relatively small tank with no large fishes, resulted in this fish "falling back" on his more instinctive secretive behavior.

Fast forward a few decades...

I'm in my "botanicals are cool" mindset, and of course, I occasionally will flash back to memories of the fishes of my childhood...And of course, one of the fondest memories was of the Kuhli Loach. If there were ever a fish that I sort of lost track of, this would be it. And it's funny- in your youthful days, you're just sort of excited about having the fish in your tank, and not putting in as much thought about catering to their needs. Now days, it's a different mindset for me, I guess.

If I were to keep this fish again today, I'd keep a group of like 6-10 specimens, and I'd probably go a bit more towards a loose representation of one of their many habitats- a shallow, slow-moving rainforest stream from Sumatra or Borneo. The nice thing about these habitats is that they often are associated with peat swamps and contain blackwater, although there are numerous clearwater streams as well that these fish are found in.

(Image by Paul Mannix)

That being said, these blackwater streams have all of the usual "calling cards" of coolness for us: Tinted water, lower ph and carbonate hardness, diffused light from the jungle canopy, and some marginal vegetation at water's edge. Typically, the current is not too strong in these streams, making it easy to replicate water movement with simple filter returns, although if you're into that sort of thing, you could use a small powerhead to kick up the flow a bit.

I think I'd tend to go with a larger, shallow aquarium, to really get that "stream" vibe going, and I'd probably to a layout with a bunch of smooth stones and some gnarled driftwood, likely Manzanita, to simulate some of the fallen branches found in these waters. A great layout to play with would be one similar to the one that Jeff Senske of Aquarium Design Group did some time back for his "Tannin Tank." Although not specifically designed with Loaches in mind, it offers many of the characteristics that work well with these fish!

Botanicals can certainly be utilized in the aquarium to provide additional cover, hiding places, retreats, and of course, a cool aesthetic for these fishes. Oh, and I'd use a fine sand substrate...and LEAF LITTER! Yup, once again, those darned leaves are a very attractive place for Kohl's to hang out in, and I'd be inclined to go with a combo of Guava and Catappa, with the ratio skewed towards Guava, as they have a certain look and greater durability in an aquarium where you just know the inhabitants will be rooting in and out of!

And of course, keeping just a tankful of Kuhlis could be really cool, but isn't it just more fun to adda few friends? Yeah. If you want to be hardcore and be totally authentic, there are species of Rasbora, Boraras, Sundanio, and multiple Gouramis that are often found in similar habitats,so why not?

I love the idea of dedicated species aquariums, but the fish geek in me just can't help but add a few friends for them, ya' know?

Let's just be real for a second. I'd totally avoid plants. I mean, sure, you can add some, but if the idea is keeping these fishes that constantly root through sand and leaves, you're going to have plants uprooted...It's almost unavoidable. Well, you could use the AquaVerdi Tank Planters  to keep your plants rooted...On the other hand, you could simply use a little artistic license and use plants like Java Fern or even (gasp!) Anubias, attached to the wood and rocks.Of course there are other alternatives in regards to plants, but these would be decent alternatives, IMHO.

(Pic by Marrabbio2 under CC BY SA-3.0)

It's fun thinking about a "next level" aquarium dedicated to a fish from my childhood...In fact, it's kind of the perfect ultimate evolution of my youthful fish geek experience. And with the experience and insight earned through decades of mistakes, tragedies, and triumphs, taking a fresh look at an old friend is always cool!

What fish of your early days would YOU want to dedicate a tank to today?

Keep pondering, stay creative. Stay focused. Stay "Khul" (couldn't resist)..

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

December 29, 2016

2 comments


Tip-toeing the Tapajos and the idea of replicating "clearwater" Amazonian rivers...

With all sorts of hobbyists playing with botanicals in their aquariums, it's understandable that they want to utilize them for creating different types of aquatic environments. Although we spend a lot of time waxing poetic about blackwater aquariums and replicating all sorts of cool blackwater habitats from around the world, the fact is, there are numerous "clearwater" habitats with slightly acidic water, dynamic fish populations, and incredibly inspiring niches to replicate in our aquariums.

As we've discussed repeatedly, it's entirely possible to keep botanicals in an aquarium and completely control the tint of the water. We receive this question all the time, so I will defer once again to my personal experiences. We've done this "anti-tint" botanical thing many times over the years, most recently last year in what is now the blackwater aquarium in our office. Yes, it was a painful experiment for this blackwater lover, but I stuck it our and enjoyed all of my leaves, pods, and other botanicals in the vaunted "crystal clear, blue-white water" of hobby legend. It just took a little activated carbon, and a lot of "dealing with it" on my part, before I came to my senses and went "back to black..."

So, back to the wild for a bit. 

One of the more popular clearwater rivers in Amazonia for hobbyists to replicate- or, at the least- keep fishes from, is the Rio Tapajos in Brazil. It's the fifth largest tributary of The Amazon, and accounts for about 6% of the water discharged into The Amazon.

This interesting river is home to over 325 documented fish species, with more than 60 being endemic to the river itself. Many of them have only recently been discovered, and scientists think that there are probably hundreds more species residing in the river yet to be cataloged. Yeah, pretty rich fish diversity, right? As you might expect, the Characins seem to dominate the fish diversity spectrum, followed by the Loricariidae and Cichlids.

(Moenkhausia pittieri by SOK, used under CC BY SA-4.0)

Although the Tapajos has low levels of dissolved solids and relatively low conductivity like a blackwater rivers, yet the pH is not significantly acidic; rather, it's typically between 4.5-7.8. - quite a range, huh? This river is subject to seasonal inundation, which means that the water level increases dramatically (like 4-5 meters!) during the rainy season. Like many rivers, it encompasses a wide variety of habitats, ranging from near "whitewater rapids"-type conditions to slow-moving driftwood "snags", to mud/silt/sand bottom areas of modest water movement, and even areas with lots of rocks and aquatic plants.

All this means is that if you're into the whole "precise biotope" contest aquarium game, you're going to have to specify exactly what area of the river and what niche you're attempting to replicate, or the judges will express their significant dissatisfaction with you...

So, let's just say you're the typical, slightly-more-than-casual lover of biotopes, but you don't want to be so hardcore as to match every rock, stick, and seed pod to some geographic locale on the Tapajos. What do you do? Pretty much what we've always done as fish geeks: Design a tank around the fishes you intend to keep, and 'scape it and manage its characteristics accordingly. So, if you're intending to feature the L-Series catfishes, for example, it's best to research the specific region of the river your species comes from and work backwards. Woah. Earth-shattering.

Suffice it to say, you can take a large amount of "artistic liberty" in your replication attempts, and still end up with something that works for your fishes- and for you. (This mindset will now officially ban me for life from any biotope competitions, but hey- I've got other stuff in my life, okay?)

And you're kind of in luck, because there are so many fishes found in many different niches within the river that you can almost pick any one, design a tank around its specific needs, and end up with something really cool!

Personally, I find great interest in some of the areas where you're apt to find a variety of cichlids, such as the much-loved Geophagus. These fish, collectively heaped into the popular moniker of "Eartheaters", really appreciate finer-grained substrates, less than 1mm, so they can do their digging thing.

(Geophagus brasiliensis by Christoph, used under CC BY SA-3.0)

And yeah, since they move stuff around with these activities, you'd want to go with "beefier" aquascaping materials, such as more durable seed pods, driftwood, small rocks, etc. And yeah, we DO have a botanical pack that we've developed specifically for the "Geos", featuring a selection of materials that are a bit more durable, with a few "grazable" (my word!) softer ones, all of which are  somewhat less inclined to impart tremendous "tint" to the water if prepared properly.

 If you're inclined to keep Loricarids, the "sweeping generalities" that we discussed above are perfectly applicable! Of course, if you really want to be hardcore about finding out exactly what habitat you should replicate for your "L134 Lepoard Frog", Peckoltia compta, for example, do a little research on where the type specimens were collected. You'll get some seriously detailed information: "Brazil, Pará, Itaituba, Pimental, rio Tapajós downstream from the confluence with rio Jamanxim, 04°41'06''S 056°23'07''W."  All of this is well and good, but you'll have to dig deeper, unless you have a good friend or family member who happens to live nearby and can clue you in.

In the case of my beloved "Leopard Frog", the specimens were collected in moderate to fast flowing waters, over a rocky bottom.  Okay, helpful. Yet, you'll dig deeper and find that the fish is commonly found in more still water, usually over rocks and wood tangles in this habitat, with a smattering of botanical materials. Plants are less common.  So, you're kind of back to square one, finding a "common denominator" to work with- moderate water flow, mostly rocks, a few pieces of gnarled wood, and probably a fine-grained sand.  Had I done this ahead of time, I certainly wouldn't have added this fish to my blackwater, largely leaf litter-enhanced aquarium...but she seems none the worse for it...

And that's kind of how it goes with the Tapajos. A lot of different habitats to play with...the key attributes are clear water and typically sandy bottoms.  Both of which are perfectly compatible with tossing in some botanicals if you want. 

Where are we going with this? Well, sort of all over, really! The Tapajos, and other clearwater rivers, are classic examples of watercourses of the world where a lot of our beloved fishes hail from- and they are as diverse as the fishes themselves, offering many possibilities for replication, from "generic" to incredibly precise, depending upon your interests. It's hard to arrive at "one habitat" that exemplifies this, or any river. 

 BIG TAKEAWAYS:

*Do research.

*Chill out a bit.

*Use activated carbon.

*Build the 'scape with the fishes in mind.

*Incorporate all sorts of botanicals, except maybe leaves.

*Chill out a bit more.

*Do whatever you want.

Gee, this might be my least helpful piece yet...or maybe it isn't , because the whole point is to simply approach aquascaping and water tint and such in a manner that you enjoy, taking what you like and applying it...not by adhering to some clinical standard of what is and is not "correct", as intimated by "them."

Unless you're into that, of course...

Okay, I think we've went nowhere long enough. I have orders to pack and worlds to conquer.

Stay bold. Stay creative. Stay resourceful. Stay...calm.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

December 28, 2016

0 comments


Key indicators of a "mental shift", and a manifesto for you- the bold adventurers of the aquarium hobby

If you've been following Tannin for a while (like a year and a half now!), you realize that we've been spending a lot of time and effort not only building our brand and offerings, but working towards creating a "mental shift" in the larger aquarium hobby towards the perception of blackwater/botanical-style aquariums.

We think it's happening!

Since we've been in existence, many of you have participated in this global, ever-growing shift towards a more unique style of aquarium, and have brought enthusiasm, creativity, and open-mindedness to the party! It's been pretty gratifying to watch blackwater aquariums, once relegated to the shadowy "oddball" category, moving towards a more rightful place as a legitimate alternative to what's been pushed on us for almost two decades as a "natural style" aquarium.

One of the interesting things that we've noticed is how "technique" or "best practices" in our little niche has evolved. With more and more aquarists entering into the fray, and sharing their aquariums and ideas, we've seen a thriving community of "tinters" sharing their ideas, questioning long-held beliefs, and generally pushing through mental barriers that were erected years before by hobbyists who likely never even attempted to keep such an aquarium.

Okay, enough pats on the back. 

Here's a very cool observation for you that shows just how far we've come as a group: The question was posed on social media about the use of leaves and botanicals; specifically wether or not you remove or leave in leaves and botanicals as they start to break down in your aquariums. Just a couple of years ago, even posing such a question would be almost heretical, with instant criticism and large amounts of unsubstantiated yet absolutely close-minded assertions that leaving leaves and botanicals in the aquarium to fully decompose would seriously compromise water quality. (and, this doesn't even take into account the fact that the idea of even adding such things to your aquarium in the first place would be questioned a couple of years back)

The overwhelming majority of hobbyists who responded indicated that they "leave 'em in" their aquariums to be fully broken down. This is astonishing to us; a tangible and significant example of the "mental shift" that hobbyists have made regarding these aquariums. Rather than simply accepting "doctrine", we've begun to examine for ourselves what the real impact of these materials is on our systems.

It's now understood among botanical/blackwater enthusiasts that, in an otherwise well-maintained aquarium, with attention paid to standard husbandry practices and monitoring the environment, that there is typically little significant impact on overall water quality. It's understood that the botanicals are acted upon by beneficial microbial life, and serve as a supplemental food source or foraging substrate for a variety of life forms, ranging from crustaceans to snails, and on up to Plecos and such. Like so many things in the aquarium world, it's not as cut and dry as simply operating on the assumption that anything left to break down in the aquarium is always detrimental to the health of the system.

Now, for every success story, there are always a few hobbyists who have had contradictory experiences. We've occasionally heard from people who've seen nitrate rising, or algae blooms, or whatever, attributed to the decomposing botanical materials in their aquariums. On the surface, hearing these cases, you'd be tempted to question the whole idea of leaving materials in, but there are a lot of factors and variables that can contribute to the less desirable outcomes that some have had. They need to at least be considered. For example, the bioload of the system before botanicals were added, the husbandry practices utilized, the length of time that the aquarium has been established, etc., etc. All are important considerations that could have significant impact on the results.

And, as we've asserted many times, botanical-style blackwater aquariums are not "set and forget" systems. Like any aquarium that attempts to maintain a stable environment that embraces parameters which differ from our "tap water" conditions, these aquariums  require keen observation, attention to detail, and regular proactive maintenance. Lower general hardness/ pH systems have unique considerations that not everyone has experience working with.

It's an evolving art form, and as more and more hobbyists of varying experience levels work with these systems, what was previously considered sketchy, "fringe" stuff will simply become accepted methodology for maintaining proper conditions. However, there is a price to be paid by those who tempt the "status quo." My hatred of pessimism and dismissiveness in our hobby compels me to draw a parallel with events from the past of the aquarium hobby.

We saw this in the mid 1980's with reef aquariums. The prevailing technique and application of technology at the time made the idea of keeping corals, invertebrates and the associated "live rock/live sand" a very questionable, "out there" practice. It was long thought that most corals would simply not thrive in aquariums, because we couldn't maintain the necessary water quality over time to sustain their health. Rather than simply accept the prevailing thinking and dismiss the idea outright, open-minded hobbyists looked at the issues and challenges, and figured out ways to utilize technique and tweak existing technology (and develop some new stuff) to provide the proper conditions to help reef animals thrive in captivity.

The rest is history, and even novice hobbyists are keeping reef aquariums in their  homes with live coral that in decades past were considered nearly impossible to keep alive, let alone propagate. By creating "best practices" and sharing what worked and what was really required, the pioneering reef hobbyists helped evolve the reef aquarium segment of the hobby out from the fringes and into the mainstream.

Now, I hold no illusions that blackwater aquariums, with their tinted water, biofilms, decomposing leaves, and totally different aesthetic, will ever achieve the magnitude of prominence in the aquarium hobby that reef tanks have achieved. However,  with more and more being understood about the benefits of humic substances for fishes and greater importance being ascribed to providing more natural conditions for our fishes, I think we'll see a lot more acceptance, and various parts of our "practices" will be assimilated into "mainstream" hobby technique.

As bold adventurers who have decided not to simply fold and accept the assertions of regurgitating naysayers, or of those who failed previously, you're doing exactly what is necessary to advance the state of the freshwater hobby. By looking beyond the superficial aspects of these long-held assertions, and simply putting in the work and doing- you're contributing to a greater understanding of an important methodology for long-term maintenance of our treasured aquarium fishes.

With natural environments, such as the peat swamps of Southeast Asia, and the tributaries of the Rio Negro, under increasing pressure from human activities, it's more important than ever to develop techniques to successfully keep and spawn the fishes from these threatened habitats. Not only will it create a better understanding of the habitats themselves, but unlocking the secrets of the care of the fishes which come from them will help reduce the need to collect them from the wild. These are extremely important issues  and goals, which "everyday aquarists" like you and me can make significant contributions towards achieving.

By boldly working towards understanding these unique environments and how to recreate them in the aquarium, you are an active participant in a incalculably valuable effort that will positively impact our planet for generations.

Yeah, it's that real.

So the next time someone tells you that "you can't", rather than simply accept it, challenge back: "Maybe YOU can't. I'm going to try and learn." Look at the results you're getting from what you're actually doing-good and bad- and learn from them; share them, and tweak as necessary. "Rinse and repeat."

Of course, don't be arrogant or elitist, but move forward knowing what is really in play here, and how making the "mental shift" to question and move past artificial barriers and long-held beliefs based on incomplete data can free you from previous limitations. Share what you do with integrity and grace.

There will be failures. Mistakes. Dark days. Seemingly unfair criticisms from fellow hobbyists. "I told you so" moments. However, there will also be learning. Incremental developments, steady progress, and genuine breakthroughs.

There's no turning back now.

Turn into the wind. You've already embarked on the journey.

Stay bold. Stay committed. Stay open-minded. Stay honest.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

 

December 26, 2016

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Minding your business: Ultimate questions from consumers, skeptics...and the dreaded "haters."

Part of the game in owning an aquarium-related business is that you are often called upon by other aspiring aquarium-business owners to answer some of their questions; to share experiences, options, and maybe a little hard-earned wisdom learned on your own journey. It's infinitely satisfying to see others follow their dreams and turn them into  reality. 

(This piece is another installment in our periodic series about developing and managing your own aquatics industry business. We cover a myriad of topics, ranging from fundamental "nuts and bolts" stuff, to the psychology and philosophy behind what you do...Today let's look at the "P and P" stuff...)

Thanks to Leonard M. of Pennsylvania for posing the question that prompted this piece:

"I'm in the process of developing a ____________  product for freshwater aquariums. I've started discussing generalities about the concept out on forums and such, and I run into a lot of people who seem to want to just shoot my idea down without even trying it. Although it's a kind of new idea, I know it works, because I've tested and used it on my own tanks for years. As a business owner, how do you deal with the scrutiny, as well as the seemingly unfair criticisms from those who just have an agenda of some sort or something?"

Good question, Leonard!

Probably one of the biggest concerns I hear about regarding building a business in the aquarium industry by budding entrepreneurs is how you deal with criticism and scrutiny from an increasingly skeptical, highly-diverse, social-media-emboldened global hobby culture. A lot of would-be owners are intimidated by the sometimes harsh criticism they might receive from people who have legitimate questions or concerns, need additional clarification, or explanation of their concept. It's a given. And it's also a "given" in the modern hobby world that there are always a few people out there-haters- who would love nothing more than to tear your idea to shreds, if for no other reason than to satisfy their own ego.

It's a fairly common occurrence today, especially  while you follow modern marketing practice and maintain an active presence in social media. And you need to face it.

Any time you're creating a business around something that has not really been done very much before in the aquarium world, or is outright new- you rightly open yourself up to all sorts of "If", "Why", "How" questions and such about your business. It goes with the territory, and the ability to stand up to such scrutiny tests both your integrity and the validity of your idea. It's a time-honored  thing.  And you should WANT this. It means people are noticing you; paying some valuable attention!

A lot of business owners have trouble with this. It's scary to some people, understandably. Someone is questioning the fundamental foundation of your business or idea. You have to have enough confidence in your idea, intellectual honesty, and a certain thickness of skin to endure this. If you don't, then you might as well pack it in now, right?

It's just that real.

Here's a personal example of the kind of questions and comments that you can and should expect from some quarters:

Recently, I had someone on a forum ask one of those "fundamental" questions in the course of a discussion. It was something like, "Why do we need to purchase all sorts of botanicals online? I can collect _______ leaves in my backyard!"

And of course, that's a great question. It's important as a business owner, to be able to address these kinds of skeptical, yet important questions. It is totally understandable. I had an obligation to patiently explain. And I did. However, in this instance, he then took it farther, and when the implication was raised that the idea of curating and selling various botanicals and leaves was "unnecessary" and (direct quote) "Kind of stupid" it immediately drove home the point that not everyone gets the idea here, and that it's part of my job is to clarify in order to help some skeptics understand! 

Of course, not everyone WILL understand and accept your idea, sometimes for the simple reason that they just don't want to. Fine. You HAVE to let go of that and grasp the fact that not everyone is your "target market", despite how good you think you are. You try, and if you can reach a few stragglers, great. If not, move forward.  You can't get argumentative, defensive, or antagonistic- even when you're "baited" by these "hater" types. They're not worth your time. Besides, you do more damage to your brand and integrity when you engage in a nasty confrontation with one of these people, regardless of how "right" you think you are and how absurdly unrealistic they might be. I've seen these train wrecks play out on social media before, and it always ends badly for the brand. Be the bigger person. That's not being arrogant unreasonable or submissive. It's just business reality. Let 'em go. 

And it's totally okay.

Now, in my instance, this person had a partially valid question, initially, because sure- you can collect some leaves yourself, and as long as they're a leaf that's not toxic to aquatic life, obtained naturally fallen from a clean, pollution-free source and properly prepared, you can use them in your aquarium. We've mentioned and discussed this before right here in "The Tint." 

What got me, and showed a sort of lack of understanding and arrogance on the part of the questioner (and where it started to get ugly) was the assertion that the idea is "unnecessary" and "stupid." I wasn't just going to back off without explaining...but I limited myself to an explanation that I felt made sense to him: I mean, just because he has access to one type of leaf in his yard, doesn't mean that everyone can...or wants to. Some people don't want to deal with the hassle. Some people don't want to bother identifying, cleaning...whatever.

And, in the course of fielding questions, observations, and concerns, you can learn some things about your business that perhaps you didn't really even think about before. In my case, it made me realize that we don't just sell botanicals. We sell time. And enjoyment. Time, in that not everyone wants to spend their valuable time tracking down, sourcing, identifying, and collecting stuff for use in their aquariums. And enjoyment- because people derive great pleasure out of using these materials to help create unique aquatic displays.

I did my best to create an analogy that I thought the "hater" would understand clearly.

Look, I can collect Daphnia and Mosquito larvae from a pond near my home. It's not that hard, right? However, does that mean that I should criticize or dismiss the manufacturers of frozen foods who include these items in their "menu" as "uneccessary" or "Kind of stupid?"

Of course not.  I don't want to take the time to collect, clean, screen and store these creatures. It's easier to pay a few dollars (or Euro or pounds or whatever your local currency is) for a lot of folks. It's more enjoyable to open the packet and feed.

I mean, I could have gone to ridiculous lengths in trying to draw usable analogies and and state, for example, that you don't HAVE to purchase your wild Geophagus for $35USD from the LFS. You can hop on a plane to South America, outfit yourself, go out in the field and collect them. Then you can complete the necessary paperwork with local authorities to get the fish out of the country, and you can obtain the necessary permits and complete the inspections with authorities to get them into yours.

Or, you can just pay the $35 USD for the fish and take them home from the LFS. 

You can go on and on and on to justify stuff to doubters using every possible analogy. Or you could explain yourself as thoroughly and succinctly as possible, and if they don't get it,  and continue to "hate" on you- move on. Tell yourself you tried your best...and move on and run your business, taking care of, and obsessing over the people who "get" what you do. Don't waste valuable time, effort, and emotional energy on people who simply choose to dismiss whatever you do. They don't want to do business with you...and that's fine.

In the end, your confidence and enthusiasm about your idea will help convey your message to a skeptical world. Sure, you won't reach everyone- but as discussed above, you won't want to. Outright "haters" are actually awesome. It means you've found people who will not ever be your market- and that's valuable "intel." Just believe in yourself. If your product or idea is truly good, it's benefits should quickly be obvious to even many skeptics after answering their questions.

Courage, confidence, and charisma, coupled with a bit of resiliency and humidly, are but a few of the necessary characteristics that you need to apply to any endeavor within the aquatic industry. If you know you have something great, and believe it, and are enthusiastic about it- there is very little a random "hater" can do to kick you down. 

Push through. Believe. Move forward. The hobby and industry need you and your fire.

Stay bold. Stay creative. Stay honest. Stay humble.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

December 25, 2016

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The blessings of the season...

 

From all of us to all of you,

May the blessings of the season be with you and your family at this awesome time of year. Thanks for making 2016 special for us, and for sharing your warmth, creativity, and friendship!

We are looking forward to accomplishing all kinds of cool things in 2017.

Stay healthy. Stay happy. Stay creative. Stay prosperous.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman and the crew at Tannin Aquatics

 

December 24, 2016

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Skills you have...and need.

Okay, you know I’m forever harping on you about getting the soul back into aquarium keeping, abhorring things like Facebook auctions and relegating expensive controllers to turning on and off the lights (nothing like an $800 light timer, huh?). I’ve prodded you to put down your test kits and stare at your tank more. Hey, I’m a bit cranky, but I admit it. You know a lot of my cranky knocks on some of the latest “trends” is because I think we’ve gotten away a bit from some of the basic skills that we need to be great aquarists.

A lifetime in both fresh and saltwater has taught me a few things…

So, today, I’ll put my money where my mouth is and launch into a bit on just that: Skills that I think we all need to work on to be better fish geeks. I’ll start you off with my ungainly “two cents worth”, and you fill in the large swaths of missing stuff, ok? Deal.

 

 

A keen sense of smell. REALLY? You’re starting the list off telling me I need to SMELL better? Well, yeah…Think about it. As a reef person, I have a pretty good sense of it, if I say so myself! There is nothing quite like the smell of “SPS coral death”, is there? Once we’ve smelled that, we will forever be attuned to it. I can walk in a fish room, store, or my facility and tell by smell if something is wrong…Now, cut the jokes…seriously!  As a reefer, you simply have this stuff down: Those of you who frag corals will understand and know what I mean about the” dead coral tissue” smell. You’ll also become keenly attuned to the smell of a protein skimmer that needs your attention...

I can’t use words on this family friendly site to adequately describe that one! You’ll also know the way a freshwater tank should smell when things are going well- earthy, “garden- like”, and pleasant. Bonus- you’ll learn to recognize the smell of fish food to the point where you’ll remember if you left it out of the fridge all day and rushed off to work! Bonus- if you use ozone, you’ll easily be able to discern the smell of excessive ozone, much in the way you can smell a gas leak. So yeah, a sense of smell is high underrated in aquarium keeping, but pretty important!

Plumbing knowledge. Yeah, that’s kind of a given if you're a fish geek. You need to know the difference between a “Street L” and a 90 degree slip FIPT fitting, or a ball valve and a gate valve. When you’re just starting out in the hobby with no plumbing experience, it’s a bit daunting. However, after building your first tank and several months in the hobby, you’ll be haunting the plumbing aisle at your local home improvement like an old pro…And you’ll be seriously stoked when you can apply your new found plumbing skills to something more practical, like a leaky faucet! You’ll be like, “That’s NOTHING to fix compared to setting up my fish room! Piece of Cake! I can DO this!”

Household cleaning skills. Huh? Yeah, you need to be really good at stuff like cleaning hardwood floors and carpets after those little “accidents” that seem to always happen. You need to know where every spare towel, cleaning solution, and trash bag is.  This is especially true if you have a doubting spouse, family member, or other co-habitant that already thinks you’re nuts because you spent $300 on a box of “Seriyu Stone” Knowing where the cleaning supplies are can totally save your hobby gig in an emergency.

(Especially true when the “Spouse Factor”, as they say, looms large as a potential issue. Added plus for guys- knowing how to operate the washer and dryer- and how to fold the towels to replace them in the closet as if nothing ever happened is a big plus! Better yet, have the number to the local jewelry store saved on your "Favorites" list on your phone…I’m not trying to sound sexist, but if the way to a guy’s heart is through his stomach, there seems to be no better way to a non-aquarium-keeping female’s heart than the jewelry store! It's like- factual...I consider this a “nuclear option”, of course, to be utilized when you REALLY screw something up!

 

Balance. Yes, you heard me. As reefers, especially those of us with larger aquariums, we spend an inordinate amount of time on step ladders, on our tip toes, and leaning over and under our tanks. It’s an inevitable part of the game. You have to be able to balance on the near top rung of the step ladder, while holding a heavy rock in one hand and a piece of wood in the other, and deftly maneuver both into position. Often, this involves a complex calculation in our head, taking into account things like depth, length, and even the refraction cause by the water’s surface.

This enables us to place things in our tanks with uncanny precision that people engaged in other hobbies can only dream of. If you're into Yoga, you do have an unfair advantage over most fish geeks, as the flexibility you’ll gain will totally save your a** one day when you’re trying to place that big piece of Spiderwood on the ledge in your rock structure while holding a wadded up ball of epoxy in the other…Mad skills.


Negotiation skills. Yeah, you need to be able to convince the guy on the other end of the counter or phone, be it at a livestock vendor, LFS, or online dry goods vendor, that you MUST have that item delivered by tomorrow, even if the odds are against him or her having it in stock for another week. Who cares if there is a waiting list that’s been in place for weeks. YOU need to be on the top of the list, because YOU must have that new light in your hands before anyone else. Getting favors out of the LFS people is a huge skill that cannot be overlooked, either. This is often a skill one develops over time by spotting weaknesses in the employees. For example, if you know that the manager has a weak spot for say,  donuts, you can’t tell me that she won’t give you the extra consideration when you walk in with a box of ‘em for the staff “just because” one afternoon, and then ask innocently if it would EVER be possible for them to net a few fry of that crazy Apisto in the display tank..you know, then one that says “not for sale!” on the tank? Seriously, this technique works..Learn it.

 

Weight training. Yeah, that’s actually kind of a no brainer. We are constantly lifting heavy and awkward stuff as reefers, aren’t we? I mean, a 5 gallon bucket of water is frickin’ heavy when you’re balancing on a step stool! And moving around big pieces of rock or buckets of water during changes is no easy feet. You need to have some strength as an aquarist…Of course, you can combine this strength with some of the other skills mentioned above to help leverage help when you need it! Like, knowing strong fellow hobbyists is always a huge plus when it comes time to moving that new  300 gallon tank into your living room. Cultivate fish geek friends who play rugby or American football  Other skills, such as bing a good cook, a massage therapist, and having amazing plants that people want cuttings of will definitely help you compensate if your upper body strength isn’t quite there yet. You’d be surprised how far “properly-motivated” (and strong) fish geeks will drive to help you lift a heavy tank. Uncanny.

 

(This one again is for my saltwater friends…specifically those who keep coral.) Ability to remove glue from fingers. Don’t overlook this skill! If you operate in just about any other business sector besides the coral trade (where it’s pretty much expected that you’ll have dried super glue on your fingers on a regular basis), you need to learn how to get the stuff off of you- and quickly! It’s not too professional for most people to have dried glue all over their fingers. Yet, as reefers, we kind of wear it as a badge of courage, a sign of respect, much as a military person has rank insignia. A reefer at the local frag swap with dried glue all over his or her hands is recognized as a VERY serious reefer…They’ve paid a heavy price in both skin and glue. Nonetheless, it’s equally as important to learn how to use the proper solvents to get this crap off after you’re done fragging up that massive efflo! Especially if you’re on the singles scene, dried glue is not cool. Knowing when and how to remove glue are overlooked and highly necessary skills!

 

Okay, I’ve started you off with seven vital skills and attributes that you must have as a fish geek. I have overlooked literally dozens in this abbreviated list. The aquarium world is counting on you to share the secrets you know…Please don’t let us down. Let’s see your contributions to the leaky “tank of knowledge” that is “aquarium culture!”

Have a great day, a great Holiday, have some fun, support your LFS (and favorite online botanical vendor, of course!)…but most of all…

Stay Wet.


Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics