The Tint

From the bottom up...Thinking through a functional botanical aquarium design

As we get deeper and deeper into this botanical/blackwater world, the desire to push ourselves, learn more, and embrace the natural processes that have been sort of pushed aside by the bulk of the "mainstream" aquatic world has inspired us to do more, try new stuff, and create.

So, my next tank will have a "dirted" substrate, consisting of a mix of terrestrial and aquatic soils, a bit of fine whitish aquarium sand, and some botanical "mulch", like our "Mixed Leaf Media", and some "Fundo Tropical" mixed in for good measure. Such a substrate kind of makes sense, too, if we're trying to replicate, to some degree, an inundated forest floor. 

I think I'd put a lot of thought into the substrate, not only to make it look realistic, but to take into account the "functional" aspect of providing a good base for microbial and interstitial organisms to grow and multiply...and I suppose, for some plants, too. There are some interesting planted-aquarium-oriented substrates that could be thrown into the mix, too. And what about some peat? Hmm...not sure about peat, but perhaps some dried moss of some sort? 

I look at pics like this, with the fine, mud-like substrate with leaves and botanical materials mixed into the "matrix", and it makes me really think about the "functional" aspects of substrates in our botanical aquariums.

I'd like to keep the actual substrate shallow- maybe about 1"-2" (2.54-5.08 cm) max. This would facilitate easier maintenance of the substrate when needed, and avoid any excessive aerobic activity. This would be very interesting to see how a shallow substrate with materials that would otherwise "freak out" aquarists would function! 

No real "vertical relief" or variation in the depth of the substrate. Just kind of flat...

Extra credit- Maybe some potted terrestrial plants, tall enough so that the leaves break the water line...

The "upper substrate" would be a significant amount of leaf litter, probably built up at least 3"-4" (7.62- 10.16cm) deep, loosely arranged, yet with full bottom coverage. In addition to the leaves (I'd be using Catappa in mixed sizes, some Magnolia, and Guava..maybe a Loquat leaf or two, for added interest), I'd be inclined to use a few dried palm frond sections scattered about, to create more visual interest and really provide that "flooded forest floor" sort of look.

And of course, I'd intersperse some other botanicals; specifically Coco Curls, "Terra Sorrindo", "Mariposa Pods", and a few "Encontro Pods"- all sort of "leaf like" in texture and appearance, yet less "transient" in nature than leaves.

For wood, I'd be inclined to go with something really "chunky", to simulate a fallen log. Perhaps a nice-sized piece of Mopani, which has the added impact of releasing a significant amount of tannin "tint" to the water (nothing wrong with that, right?). It would be cool to just have one larger piece, and allow the biocover and bits of leaves and such to accumulate on it's surfaces, much like you see in nature. The piece of wood could become the "anchor" for the leaf litter bed, and would provide a significant foraging area for all sorts of interesting fishes and invertebrates. This pic by Mike Tuccinardi always makes the gears turn in my head:

MY friend Reid Cheung has this interesting ability to make his botanical 'scapes look very "evolved", if you will, with the substrate sort of bling into the wood, to create a deep rich, "aged" look that I find very compelling and natural. A worthy goal for any blackwater/botanical-style aquarium, I think.

A refugium would be awesome in this tank, and mine would have tons of fast growing plants like floating water sprite under intense light, and a huge inoculation of Daphnia. This refugium arrangement could have the dual benefit of nutrient processing and supplemental food cultivation via the Daphnia. Maybe even some freshwater copepods, like Gammarus, Cyclops, and such, for good measure! I think the "substrate" in the refugium would be just a large quantity of "Coco Curls" and "Teardrop Pods", because a) Coco Curls impart a lot of tannins into the water and b) "Teardrop Pods" would recruit a lot of biofilm for the Daphnia and other crustaceans to feed upon.

Yesterday, my good friend Johnny Ciotti, an "Iron Aquascaper", professional photographer, and fish geek, stopped by the office to do some photo/video work, and utilized much more intense lighting for this than we normally operate on the aquarium, and it gave me a sort of unique insight into the otherwise dark world of this blackwater aquarium.

I noticed many interesting things for the first time (believe it or not) that I really liked. For example, you'd see bits of "crumbling" botanicals accumulating in little pockets here and there among the leaves. Not "detritus" in the usual sense; rather, bits of botanical debris. Stuff enriching the aquatic environment, not detracting from it. And you'd see minute sections of biofilm on leaves, and an overall "richness" to the substrate that I can't really describe. And the colors of the leaves- they're all there, and they really popped under the bright light, almost as they did on land.

And I noticed the occasional appearance of minute pieces of leaves floating in the current here and there...The water had such a tremendous tint and "consistency" (is that the right word...?) that it really looked amazingly like many of the stretches of igarapes or blackwater streams that I've seen. In fact, on numerous occasions, Johnny would pause and look at some of his pics and say something to the effect of "You just can't tell that this wasn't taken underwater in the Rio Negro."  These little details would probably freak out the typical hobbyist, who has not been "indoctrinated" into the botanical-blackwater world, but we understand...

(My lousy pic, lol)

So, the point of this little stream-of consciousness narrative is that my next tank will be optimized, if you will, to really embrace the natural processes that occur when you add botanicals into the aquarium. It will be an even greater expression of "form meets function" than I've attempted in the past. The next one will optimize the process that occur natural to embrace them not only for their function and impact on the aquatic environment, but for their aesthetics, as well.

The "mental stretches" that we talk about incessantly here are still occurring for me, years into this. With each pic I see of the natural habitats we want to emulate, and every beautiful aquarium that I see come to life from our community, it's inspiring, interesting, and engaging. I'm seeing and experiencing new things, coming up with new ideas, and trying to understand and embrace the processes and aesthetics in a whole new light.

I am happy to see many of you doing the same. Evolving.

What do you have up next?

Stay inspired. Stay curious. Stay innovative.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Points of origin and the influences of botanicals on our fishes...

As we see more and more aquariums devoted to botanical-influenced, blackwater environments, we're getting more and more questions about what botanical would be appropriate for a given region that an aquarist is attempting to replicate. 

Now, we've sort of touched on this before, and it bears further discussion at this point, I think. First off, many of the botanicals we work with are found in multiple tropical regions of the earth, and as such, could be suitable to represent a variety of habitats from around the world. Others are tied more specifically to a given region, and would obviously be most appropriate in an aquarium representing that region.

That being said, it's always sort of a delicate point, IMHO, trying to replicate a specific area with natural materials, because it really depends upon how "hardcore" you are-or the Judges- if it's a tank destined for a competition. I suppose if you're entering your aquarium in a biotope competition, and part of the judging criteria is based upon utilizing appropriate materials, you'd be hard-pressed to explain the presence of a botanical or leaf from Southeast Asia in your Amazonian Igarape biotope aquarium! Although I am curious if the judges are more concerned about general adherence  to "theme" and/or the correct live aquatic plants, and if they will truly not be put off by a seed pod from a different continent?

On the other hand, if you're like many of us, you recognize that your aquarium is a representation of a natural habitat- a "reasonable facsimile"-and you'll cut yourself some slack in this regard. So, for example, if you're trying to represent that Amazonian stream, it's okay to include some Jackfruit leaves from India or some Catappa leaves from Borneo as substitutes for endemic trees...to most observers, "a leaf is a leaf", regardless of wether it originates in Southeast Asia, North America, or India! And our interest in this stuff is far deeper than something as vapid as a competition...

As we evolve at Tannin, we're pressing our global suppliers to provide us with more "region-specific" botanicals and leaves, and will make a greater effort to inform you of the "point of origin" of some of the various botanicals that we offer on our website. Look for some very unique, very interesting materials later this year! The idea of "point of origin" will help those of you who are seriously "hardcore" make more informed decisions about what to include in your biotope aquarium ( okay...or your competition-bound aquascape, too)...and more important, help drive more detailed studies into the impact that regionally-appropriate botanicals influence the environments we want to replicate, and the fishes we want to keep!

Now, in the future, there will no doubt be the ability to do more scientific-oriented studies on what terrestrial botanical items specifically impact the water chemistry in various parts of the world, and that would definitely be "next level" stuff! Can you imagine being able to add region-specific materials, ranging from wood to seed pods, to your aquarium  that represents a specific locale? THAT would be a definite reason to stay "locked in" to materials from a given region! 

In general, if you look at some of the stuff that falls into the streams and waterways of the tropical world, a lot of the leaves are from various rainforest trees. Catappa, Guava, and the many palm-derived items we offer here at Tannin Aquatics are great "facsimiles", as mentioned above, but are not 100% authentic to what you will find in nature in every aquatic habitat. Kind of like "generic" terrestrial materials, if you will!

Are there very specific humic substances and other chemicals derived from specific plant materials, which influence the waters of say, given streams in Southeast Asia? Perhaps. It is known that the concentrations of terrestrial items in the water at different times of the year play an important role in the way fishes feed, so perhaps that's a good starting point for us to explore the influences in our aquarium endeavors.

An interesting study I read on South American streams found that fruits and seeds became very important to many omnivorous species as part of their diet during the high-water season. As the forests are inundated, greater concentrations of terrestrial materials are found in the water, and this provides specialized feeders with the ability to consume their more selective diets than in the dry season, when the significant reduction of these items results in far less feeding "selectivity" by the fishes. In other words, they "take what they can get" during these times!

Detritus, epiphytic algae, and good old mud are quite abundant in these waterways. The  mud and detritus originate from the deposits of materials brought into the dry areas by the overflowing rivers, as well as from the decomposition of the rainforest litter incorporated into the aquatic environment during the seasonal flooding. Epiphytic algae production is aided by the large influx of nutrients present during this time. During the In the low water periods, this organic layer helps compensate for the shortage of other food resources. Insects- both terrestrial and aquatic, support a large percentage of the fish community.

So, it could even be possible to utilize various types of botanicals in our aquariums by increasing their amounts on a seasonal basis, in order to perhaps mimic this process of "seasonal abundance" in nature. This goes hand in hand with varying the diets of our fishes as well. Sure, it would be a little bit of a process to "edit" the botanical concentrations of our aquariums, and revise food offerings at different times of the year, but could this be something that ties into age-old natural influences on our fishes' life cycles, providing more optimal conditions for reproduction and growth? Fun to ponder,  huh?

So, we can see that understanding the point of origin of some of the botanicals we use could have some interesting tangential benefits for our fishes. The hardcore biotope hobbyists are perhaps on to something with their rigid adherence to the "local stuff only" rules...although I'd hazard a guess that not a single one of 'em has thought about it in the context of stuff like seasonal food availability for fishes and the influence of these materials on water chemistry on a more specific basis!

There is so much to learn and perhaps benefit from studying in greater detail these specialized impacts on our fishes...It would be extremely interesting to see if there truly are advantages to replicating such occurrences and influences from nature in our captive systems. It's all a matter of just how deep you want to go...and perhaps, it all starts with thinking about the "points of origin"- not only of the materials that we want to use in our aquariums, but of the fishes themselves. 

Hope I succeeded in getting you to think about these tings from a slightly different angle. The opportunity to work with botanicals to create amazing functional aquariums that can provide us with an insight into processes occurring in the natural world can really take the hobby to another level is something we can all contribute to!

Excited yet?

Stay focused. Stay engaged. Stay fascinated.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

"Insider information" on leaves

One of the questions that we DON"T get a lot, but something that I felt I should touch on here in "The Tint" is the condition of the leaves you work with and how this affects what you're doing with them.

I notice, from time to time, that some leaves are just a bit less "pristine" than others; you know, maybe curled up, drier, a bit ragged around the edges. And I wonder if you, the customers, are concerned that you're not receiving a leg that will do what it's expected to do. (Exactly what is a leaf "expected" to do in an aquarium, anyways?)

I figured I'd let you know that even if a leaf looks a bit "battle-scarred" or weathered, as long as the bulk of the tissue is still intact, you'll derive all of the expected benefits from them. While we make every effort to select the most pristine-appearing leaves for our customers, sometimes, the selection just look less "pristine" than others, and this never seems to impact their "performance", in our experience. And once submerged, even the driest, gnarliest leaves look pretty cool, in our opinion!

Some leaves, like Catappa, come in fairly obvious "grades", because of their color, structure, and quality. Some varieties, like our leaves from Borneo, are very intact, pristine, almost "plastic-like" in  feel, and super colorful. Others, like our Indian origin leaves, are a bit more monochromatic, softer, more papery-like in texture and feel, and tend to be a bit more "ripped." And typically, the Indian leaves are a bit smaller in size than the ones from other regions.

Now, one of the things we've noticed is that different Catappa leaves from different regions of the world will have slightly different "performance" characteristics, too! We've found that the Indian-origin leaves tend to break down much more thoroughly and quickly than the Borneo and Thai-origin leaves we offer. They impart a slightly more "brown" tint, a little bit more quickly than our other Catappa leaves, which seem to impart a deeper brownish-red color to the water, and tend to last a bit longer in many instances.

Guava leaves, on the other hand, tend to "curl up" a bit during storage, and may not look as "sexy" when you first get them, but upon immersion, seem to "open up" more and take on the more exotic appearance we all know and love! And they can last a very long time, imparting a light golden tint to the water.

Loquat leaves tend to run the gamut from slightly dry and super colorful, to dark brown and super "crispy." We tend to ship them when they are less "dry and crumbly", yet this is often a seasonal thing. We're getting pretty good at storing and handling them now, so you're getting more and more intact, somewhat "pliable" Loquat leaves now days!

Jackfruit are interesting, because they look fairly nondescript and often weathered, yet intact when they are dry. Sometimes, they have a slight dusting of mold on them, which we recommend rinsing off and wiping away with a paper towel or toothbrush. Yeah, leaves require a bit of work! Honestly, we're not aware of any issues whatsoever with some of the mold from the leaves getting into your aquariums water; nonetheless, it's good practice to prep leaves before use.

Magnolia are amazing leaves, with a somewhat pliable feel and a "waxy" appearance. They often will release some of the remaining moisture they contain in their tissues while in the bags for transit, and may also arrive with a bit of mold on their surfaces. Again, these are easily removed by wiping, and a good overnight soak will also help.

I know we've talked about prep over and over and over, and the "steep, soak, or boil" dilemma that the botanical aquarium enthusiast has to deal with. My latest practice with almost all leaves now is a rinse and overnight soak in freshwater before using them. S0 many of you just toss the leaves right in after a rinse; it's rally your call. The boiling and steeping we recommend are THE most conservative approaches to preparing leaves for use, and we will likely continue to recommend this approach for some time.

Honestly, it's our experience and opinion that you will not lose significant tannins from the leaves with a steep or brief boil, or even an overnight soak, but it all comes down to what's most comfortable for you!

There is a lot of opinion out there on the best way to utilize leaves i the aquarium, and the real adventure with them is just beginning, as we go beyond just making tinted water with leaves, and move on towards creating more realistic, aesthetically beautiful, and highly functional leaf litter displays.

Stay engaged. Stay curious. Stay creative.

And Stay Wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Discovering, accepting...perfecting

Was in a bit of a reflective mood today...

It’s a real leap of faith for us fish geeks to try something new, isn’t it?

I mean, we’ve done things pretty successfully, with some gradual iterations along the way- for the better part of 100 or so years…until fairly recently.

Sure, there have been changes in basic technology- like frozen foods, freeze-dried foods, under gravel filters, internal water pumps, wet-dry filters…canister filters.We’ve gone through different types of stuff like aquarium substrates for planted tanks…and the application of liquid fertilizers and CO2- stuff that used to seem so exotic and unfamiliar is now "just the way it’s done", right?

It’s not always easy getting fish people to adapt new methods, equipment, or ideas…It’s almost like we have to see the "relevance" to what we do before we consider it…There has to be some element of familiarity, it seems.

The odd, but well-treaded analogy of the California Roll resonates well here. “Huh? What are you talking about, Fellman?” 

Stay with me, here…

Remember not too many years ago, the whole concept of sushi was- well- alien to many Americans of non-Japanese ancestry.  Back in the late 1970’s, or so the story goes, owners of Japanese restaurants were just nots sure how to get Americans into sushi..Eventually, someone made a roll, consisting of ingredients that were almost entirely recognizable to  the Western palette: Rice, cucumber, and crab. The little bit of nori that wrapped the whole thing up was a stretch- but the majority of the roll was produced with entirely familiar ingredients. It caught on- big time- and became the “gateway drug” for the sushi addiction here in the U.S. and throughout much of the West.  Now, it’s pretty much the most “basic” of the sushi rolls- but I’ll bet that in 1977, most Westerners would freak out about it if they were offered it at a restaurant!

And that’s how it is with our fish stuff, right?

We accepted the idea of the “Nature Aquarium” in America, with it’s rigid adherence to aquascaping layout “rules” and such; it was sort of a sea change…but it also was an evolution or change from what we had in the past…It incorporated familiar components (plants, rocks, wood, but assembled them in a different way. It was like that with the first freeze-dried foods…live stuff that was preserved in a different manner than previously done…and it made our lives better and easier, in terms of our fish keeping…And so it goes with electronic controllers, LED lights, etc., etc.- Familiar ideas expressed in new ways…

That’s what pushes the hobby forward. In our case, the idea of using “botanicals” in our aquariums is not groundbreaking…it’s just a bit different than what we’ve been doing in the past…a tiny, tiny incremental change in our practices. It's modeling after what really happens in nature, as opposed to some stylized representation of nature.

And we're talking about accepting and fostering many of the natural processes that occur in the habitats we model, beyond just the aesthetics.

Yet, it’s required us to make a lot of “mental leaps”, hasn’t it? I mean, the idea of throwing in leaves and botanicals which break down and tint the water wasn’t exactly the kind of thing a lot of hobbyists found appealing.

Giving up the idea of “pristine-looking” blue-white water for the soupy "brownness" of a blackwater aquarium did not immediately endear many, with the general hobby sensibilities about keeping aquariums scrupulously “clean” and devoid of stuff that would be considered “excess bioload” and what not.

Yet, now we’re starting to see not only the unique aesthetic advantages of blackwater, botanical-style aquariums- we’re seeing functional, tangible results, in terms of fish health, spawning, and husbandry technique. And the “side show” that was blackwater aquariums is now on its way to becoming a more widely enjoyed hobby specialty area.

Every new fish that’s bred, every new idea that’s executed and perfected. They all make things so familiar to us that much better… Familiar in some ways, yet so different in others. YOU'RE doing this- pushing the state of the art along. We all are.

We wouldn’t have it any other way.

Keep doing what you're doing. 

Stay excited. Stay passionate. Stay curious.

And stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Botanicals on the brain...ideas I just can't let go of...

Ever get one of those ideas that, perhaps you mention in passing in discussion...or maybe in a blog, or whatever...and it just sort of sticks with you a bit?

Well, I have just such a "thing" in my head, and I can't seem to let go of it! I mentioned in one of my most recent pieces the idea of a leaf litter-filled botanical tank as a sort of "botanical fry rearing tank" for some species, and I keep thinking about this.

It reminds me of the "jungle style" aquariums I used to play with for killies when I was a kid..You know, overgrown planted tanks packed with Rotala, Water Sprite, Duckweed...whatever plants you wanted - and you'd toss in newly-hatched fry and just sort of let them be...

I remember the beautiful Fp.gardneri  and Ep. dageti Monroviae that I'd get out of such tanks! And killer Platies and Mollies! I never forgot that feeling of just peering into the "jungle" and spotting juveniles with developing color and fins!

So, I keep thinking that a similar kind of thing could work for many fishes with a very diverse, leaf-litter-heavy botanical aquarium. I derive my inspiration for this from the extremely productive leaf litter zones of Amazonia and elsewhere, in which diverse and rich communities of fishes and their food sources thrive and create a fantastic habitat.

(pic by David Sobry)

You'd have (maybe) a fine sand bottom, maybe a few centimeters deep, and a lot of different leaves on top. I'd think Catappa, Guava, and a healthy dose of Magnolia and Loquat (for biofilm production).

Then, more diverse botanical items, like "Mariposa Pods" (A more durable, palm-derived product), "Terra Sorrindo" (also Palm-derived), Banana Stem Pieces, and various other "harder-shelled" pods which recruit biofilms readily. Maybe you'd "inoculate" the tank with some Daphnia, and let it sit for a bit before adding fish.

I can imagine that, once the pods and leaves start to break down a bit and recruit biocover, maybe some algae, and a bit of infusoria or other small microorganisms- you'd have an ideal, low-maintenance "starter tank" for a lot of different types of fishes, ranging from killies to Anabantids to Cichlids and Tetras...Just do water changes and perhaps minimal food inputs. A bunch of possibilities here. I had one friend who has used this concept to rear some Pleco fry from the early stages with much success!

Further, I could see such a setup being useful for acclimating newly-arrived wild fishes which come from blackwater environments...Like characins, Apistos, Angels, and Discus...Not only do the fishes benefit from the humic substances released by the botanicals and leaves- they have a ready source of "foraging" available to them.

The concept is not something that's totally "out there"- yet using heavily loaded botanical tanks for acclimating fishes might prove interesting! There are a lot of possibilities with this. As we start seeing the appearance of different types of more specialized feeders coming into the market (that's all I'm saying for now), these types of more natural acclimation systems-and displays- might prove extremely useful.

Or the idea of a freshwater refugium, stocked to the max with botanicals and leaves and such, lit on a "reverse daylight" schedule from your display, as a means to impart tint, create optimal conditions, and provide supplemental food or biodiversity to a display that, for whatever reason, you want to keep leaves and such out of... or keep animals like shrimp- which could become someone else meal- safe!

A concept that has been occasionally touched on with freshwater tanks, but scarcely anyone is really doing much- or at least, talking much- about...particularly with the application of botanical materials! Wide open for "R and D" for those of you who are interested!

And of course, I've talked a lot about a "tint reactor"- you know, using botanicals like cones and bits of leaves in a fluidized reactor (Hello, crossover reef-keeping geeks..this is right up your alley!), not just to impart tint and humility substances, but possibly to create a "biofilm reactor" where this stuff is actively grown so that the effluent contains some beneficial microbial life forms for a rearing aquarium...Just an idea, but could it be the "Brine Shrimp hatcher of The 21st Century?"

Who knows.

What I do know is that there can be more use for botanical-style aquariums than just creating aesthetically interesting displays. The functionality of them in a variety of other applications beckons us...It's just the beginning of this- and there is all sorts of potential for novel applications and, just maybe- breakthrough developments.

At the very least, this stuff is really fun, puts you square on the "bleeding edge" of aquarium technique, and it gives your friends who just don't get our obsession something to tease you about! How cool is that?

Stay bold. Stay geeked-out. Stay experimental.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Blackwater and Crypts: The perfect "jumping off point" for planted blackwater aquariums!

With all of the "crossover" occurring now in the specialty aquarium segment of the hobby, we're seeing an uptick in interest about mixing plants with blackwater environments. There are a lot of questions on this sort of mix; specifically, what plants can you keep and which are the most adaptable.

Now, I'll start right off by telling you that plants are not my area of expertise. Most of you have forgotten more about them than I'll ever know!  I've touched on them once before in this blog, however. That being said, I do have some small experience keeping plants in blackwater aquariums, and have formed some opinions on them. My hope is that this post will at least form the basis for a discussion, with participation and input from those of you who have more extensive knowledge and experience with aquatic plants, and possibly, aquatic plants in blackwater systems.

First off, there are a surprisingly large number of plants that actually occur in blackwater-type habitats in the wild. I think some of the more compelling examples that we can keep in aquariums are found in Asia, in places like Malaysia, Borneo, etc., and include a healthy number of species sort of familiar to aquarists, so lets touch on them today.

The most immediately recognizable are species of Cryptocorynes are the first type of plants that scream "We live in blackwater!" to me. (really!) They are adapted to extremely acidic environments- sometimes as low as pH 3.5! Now, just because they can live in such extremes doesn't mean they have to. Low to non-existent carbonate hardness (hey, RO/DI water!) is good! If your pH finds itself in the "high fives" and "low sixes", I think you'll be fine. And the interesting thing about blackwater Crypts, is that they don't need a lot of nutrients - actually they are adapted to get along with very, very little in the way of nutrients! In culture, they certainly benefit from having more nutrients available than in nature, but you don't need to go crazy with fertilizer. So, those of you that feel that you need to be dosing all sorts of stuff and wonder about the impact of that in a botanical/blackwater system...don't have to!

Besides, some cool, well-fed fishes, like wild Bettas, will help provide some of the nutrients the plants need...for free!

And one more thing: With blackwater Cryptocorynes, it's important to think of the soil they grow in as an ecosystem of its own. This means that you probably would want to create a nice, rich substrate and not mess with it. I mean, every time you adjust some specific factor  in fertilizing plants- especially touchy ones like some Crypts- there could be all sorts of possible negative effects...Don't overdo it. Just give 'em a rich, balanced substrate and concentrate on the other aspects of the aquarium. A bunch of blackwater/Crypt fans I know are big into letting their leaves decompose completely into the substrate in their tanks, serving as an "in situ" source of compost! This is "right up our alley", huh? And yeah, some grow emersed, too.

And back to the whole pH thing again...although many of the blackwater Crypts can grow in higher, even neutral pH, take into account the fact that they do better at lower pH levels. And as for lighting, they categorically don't need a ton of light, so well-tuned LED or other lighting methodologies would suit these plants just fine!

I think those of you that love Asian biotopes would do well to go for some Crypts. Sure, there are some pretty obscure ones, like Cryptocoryne yujii,  and Cryptocoryne pallidinervia but you can definitely do well with Cryptocoryne cordata, Cryptocoryne ciliata,  C. longicauda, C. pallidinerva, and even C. grifithii, which are not uncommon at all in blackwater habitats. And you could also add various specimens of Barclaya to round it out a bit.

( B. motley -Copyright, Patrick Blanc)

So why stop with just using the plants? I mean, there are some very cool species of fishes, some of which enthusiasts know already- which deserve our attention that come from these blackwater peat swamp environments: Wild Bettas, like  Betta brownorum, Betta akarensis, and Betta coccina are found in these types of habitats.  Other cool fishes, like the increasingly popular Sundadanio axelrodi, and the more exotic "Bumblebee Catfish", Nanobagrus fuscus also may be common in these locales.

With a little research, one could replicate the combinations of fishes and plants common to these environments, and create a nice little biotope aquarium in the process!

Aquascaping tip: Include some palm fronds, as many of these habitats have palm trees overhanging the water, with fronds often falling in.

Okay, I could probably go on and on and on, but I think just firing off the opening salvo in a discussion which I hope those more learned than I will jump into is good enough for now!

Let's hear from those of you who keep plants in your blackwater tanks. Specifically let's talk about your selection, substrate, fertilizing regimens (if any), and lighting.

Stay involved. Stay creative. Stay adventurous.

And Stay Wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Getting in on the action...the basics of working with leaves in your aquarium...

Okay, you've seen the pics of all the cool tanks. You've heard the buzz all over social media. Seems like more and more people are talking about blackwater aquariums, botanicals, and real "natural-style" aquariums...

And you want in on the action.

Hey, who could blame you? This stuff is kind of cool!

However, how do you start? How do you choose which botanicals to play with?

That's a question that is kind of difficult for me to even answer...What I'd usually tell you when asked is, "It depends." (extremely helpful, I know...) 

We can hit on this topic in future installments. Today, let's touch on the use of leaves in the aquarium; typically, leaves are the "jumping off point" for a lot of hobbyists as they start their botanical-style/blackwater aquarium experience, and it makes sense to touch on them first!

If your goal is to add some leaf litter to supplement your hardscape or to become the primary focus of your aquascape, then you have a wide variety of leaves from which to choose, some of which we offer here at Tannin. We've written extensively about how you can collect and experiment with fallen leaves from other trees, so I won't get into that here. Rather, let's stick to the leaves you see on our site and in aquariums worldwide.

Of course, there are what I call the "Big 5" leaves we play with in the botanical aquarium world: Catappa, Guava, Loquat, Jackfruit, and Magnolia. Again, there are many other leaves that hobbyists play with from time to time; however, we've found that these particular leaves tend to be the most useful and versatile leaves, each with their own characteristics, appearance, and benefits.

What are my faves? Well, personally, although Catappa is the sentimental favorite, because of its versatility and "obtainability", my personal favorite has to be Guava, followed by Magnolia. Why? Well, Guava just look exotic to me! They have a beautiful shape and structure, and they last a long, long time submerged- often two or more months-before decomposing away! They impart a lighter "tint" to the water, yet offer that exotic aesthetic which makes up for their lesser amount of tannin-imparting capability.

Magnolia, on the other hand, will put out a pretty good "tint" into the water, lasts for 2-3 months, sometimes more- and have beautiful shape and color. They tent to recruit more biofilms than many other leaves, because of their waxy cutin dermal layer. The very thing that makes them last so long under water also enables them to recruit more biofilm.

When I'm asked which of these leaves last the longest when submerged, I must start by telling you that, although many leaves have different durability and tannin-imparting capabilities, your specific water chemistry, fish population, etc. are the major determining factors in how long a given leaf will last submerged in your aquarium. 

In order of "longevity", from least durable to most durable, I'd say it goes something like this:

*Catappa

*Loquat

*Jackfruit

*Guava

*Magnolia

And then there are those "leaf surrogates" or "leaf substitutes"- botanicals which look sort of "leaf-like", are heavier in weight and structure, and may be used to create a longer-lasting component of a good leaf litter bed. At this point, I'm sure that this piece might take on a bit of an "infomercial" flavor, because I'm mentioning some of the stuff we offer, but it's kind of unavoidable, so...here goes.

Terra Sorrindo- These are palm-derived botanicals, and look sort of like a brown potato chip. They last a really long time and look perfect when mixed into the "softer-looking" leaves like Catappa and Guava.

"Mariposa Pods"/"Mini Mariposa Pods"- Another palm-derived botanical that mixes nicely with leaves. These are lighter weight, last virtually indefinitely, and will impart a fair amount of orange-brown color into the water.

"Encontro Pods"- These botanicals look like a thick, "beefy" leaf, and are perfect to use as "anchor pieces"- literally and figuratively- in your litter bed to hold down lightweight leaves, provide some nice accent, and impart a little bit of tint to the water. They tend to recruit a bit of biofilm at first, so be patient with them!

Any combination of these leaves and botanicals would help you create a really cool, aesthetically attractive, yet "functional" leaf litter bed. You can supplement/replace with new leaves as the old ones decompose, so it's never a bad idea to keep some extras on hand! (heh, heh, heh...)

As far as preparation- you do know that we have the preparation instructions for every botanical we offer on a dedicated page on our website, right? That being said, the preparation of leaves is one of the few "controversies" in the botanical aquarium world. Yeah. I'm the very conservative type, and as a responsible aquarist/business owner, I recommend steeping your leaves in boiling water for a few minutes to soften them, and then soak over night in room temperature water before use.

The steep will help break down the tissues a bit to facilitate sinking, eliminate any surface contaminants, and help release some of the remaining sugars and initial tannins bound up in the leaf tissue. Of course, everyone asks if you're eliminating all of the beneficial tannins when you do this. My answer: No. You re not. They will keep leaching out tannins for quite some time, even after this comprehensive prep process.

Everyone has a different opinion on this; that's just mine. Lately, I admit I've forgone the boiling water in favor of a room-temperature overnight soak, or sometimes, just a heavy rinse in tap water, and then added the leaves to my aquariums. Ive encountered no problems, other than a slightly higher "buoyancy" with the non-steeped leaves. Some people might say they last longer, too. Your call.

As far as "placement" and "depth of litter bed" is concerned, that's really up to you. I've gone over the possible issues with adding a proportionately large influx of fresh leaves and botanicals to an established aquarium at once, and I stand by my recommendation to go slowly. As you are aware, rapidly adding a bunch of leaves that will contribute to the bioload of the aquarium, not to mention, potentially decrease the pH, can have some serious consequences for the animals in your system.

Besides, part of the fun is watching the aquarium "evolve" over time. Test pH, ammonia, and nitrite regularly during the first few days after you've added the botanicals to an existing tank, and perhaps pH and nitrate/phosphate on the longer term, to establish "baseline" parameters and monitor any trends as your system matures. "Test, then tweak" is a favorite old aquarium adage of mine for a good reason.

Patience.

Depth-wise, it's your call, and wide open for experimentation. In a properly filtered, well-maintained aquarium, I see little reason why you couldn't create a very deep litter bed, approaching 8-10 inches (20.32-25.4 cm) deep- or more! In nature, leaf litter beds may be several meters deep!

Now, I realize that an aquarium is not an open-system like a stream, and that there are upper limits to what you can do, so the real takeaway here is that, with careful experimentation, observation, and a willingness to make "mid-course corrections", you as the hobbyist can try all sorts of things with regards to depth and composition of your leaf litter bed.

Bonus questions?

Hmm, how about what to do about the moldy spots you sometimes see on leaves? This is particularly common with Catappa, Jackfruit, and Magnolia. It happens somewhere along the line, during the chain of preparation by the collectors, packaging, and transport. Magnolia, in particular tends to have more surface mold than most other leaves, in my experience, and I believe it's because the waxy cutin layer on these leaves retains more moisture than other leaves, and in a sealed plastic bag, they tend to release it and the resulting moist "environment" in the bag tends to recruit some mold on the surfaces of the leaves. I've never, ever had any problems by using leaves which have had mold on them in my aquariums. Because I take the time to prepare my leaves before using them, it's always been a "non-issue" in my experience. Just use some common sense. If the leaf is just covered in scuzzy mold, dump it. With a little "dusting" of mold, clean it and prepare as recommended before using in your aquarium.

A lot of hobbyists ask us which leaf they should use to simulate a habitat from such-and-such a locale. It's a logical question, and one which super hardcore biotope enthusiasts might rightly grapple with. My answer? Since most of the leaves we offer are found in multiple locations around the world, and some are not even tropical (like Magnolia leaves and Loquat leaves), the best we're doing is creating a reasonable facsimile of what's found in say, the Borneo Jungle or Amazonian rain forest. Rest assured, I'm diligently working my suppliers around the world for more varieties of leaves, particularly those from some exotic locales, and we'll have them really soon. However, for now, just understand that the leaves you have available will work just fine.

In fact, I don't think your fishes will notice one bit. Perhaps in the future, we will recognize some specific microfauna and such from leaves found in very specific locales, and how they impact the aquatic environment and its inhabitants, but for now, we're content (?) to replicate it on a more "superficial" level. Besides, once the water "tints" and the leaves start breaking down, unless you're really uptight, you won't be all that concerned about your Amazonian-themed tank having an Indian Jackfruit leaf in it. Trust me. Just enjoy it.

And of course, the most popular question about leaves that we receive has to be, "Should I leave them in or remove them as they break down?" You probably know my opinion by now, as I've written about it dozens of times before: I leave them in to completely break down, and only remove them if the debris is getting in the way of plant growth or causing some other nuisance in the aquarium. The aesthetic of decomposing leaves- not to mention, the impact of them, is something I've come to enjoy as one of the "core experiences" of a blackwater, botanical-style aquarium. Competition 'scapers and those who haven't really researched leaf litter beds call this horrifyingly undisciplined and "messy." I call it a REAL "nature aquarium."

Okay, I think we've just about covered the initial ins-and-outs of working with leaves in your aquarium. Sure, we could probably go on and on and on about water chemistry impact, tuning your aquarium for optimal performance with leaf litter, husbandry, etc., etc., but I think this is a good start. Our collective experiences and subsequent discussions will only add to the growing body of knowledge about the concept, aesthetics, function, husbandry, and long-term dynamics of the botanical-stye, blackwater aquarium. That's where YOU come in!

Stay excited. Stay curious. Stay disciplined. Stay adventurous.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Quick starts. Smart starts...and the long game...

Things are really humming along here in "Botanical Land!"

Every week, we see aquarists playing around with botanical-influenced blackwater aquariums for the first time, and in an insanely high percentage of cases, they are enthralled by this new realm. We hear many of the same types of descriptions used to describe the total experience of this type of aquarium, and how it changed their perception of what a "natural aquarium" really is.

Most important of all is the excitement we're feeling from those who are just getting underway with their botanical aquariums...you know, playing with them for the first time, eager and excited to see what this is all about. And a lot of hobbyists are not 100% certain what the best way to start a botanical-style/blackwater aquarium. 

I mean, it can be as simple as, "Just throw the stuff i there and wait..."

However, I think there is a bit more to the process than that, really.

Getting underway with botanicals is a really interesting topic that I could easily devote several blogs to. I think that the initial consideration with botanicals is to have some sort of "plan"  going in. I mean, sure, it's fine to toss a few into an existing tank to "see what they'll do"; however, it's far better to have a goal or plan for the tank.

In other words, your goal is to replicate a shallow blackwater Borneo stream and you want to assemble some palm-derived materials to simulate it. Or, you're starting from scratch and want to do an Amazonian igarape, complete with tons of leaves. No matter how broad or nebulous the idea is, at least you have something to work with.

Having a plan, no matter how basic, will at least give you a "track to run on" when stocking the aquarium with botanicals. And the way you start will really "set the tone" for your display throughout its lifetime. And of course, adding lots of botanical materials into an existing, established, populated aquarium can rapidly change the environmental parameters of the system and affect the fishes residing in there, so you need to keep this in mind when "retrofitting" a tank.

When starting from scratch, I usually will "deploy" about 90% of the amount of materials that I ultimately intend to use, right from the start. This does a couple of things. First, it "lays down" the initial environmentally-influencing botanical spread and creates the basic aesthetic you want. Second, it gives you an opportunity to assess what kind of environmental influence the botanicals create. You let the system run at "90%" for a week or two, and then "edit", as I like to call it, and add the rest of the materials that you feel get you where you want to be initially.

Then you wait for two or three weeks. 

Yep, I like to wait until stuff starts "softening", breaking down a bit; acquiring a "patina" of biofilm or algae and starts looking less "pristine"; more natural and "rich."

Then I do more "editing", adding a few botanicals or leaves here and there as I feel necessary to get the look and "structure" I want for the display. Just sort of "evolving" it a bit; all the while, keeping in mind that the system will change on it's own without any intervention on your part. It will "get where it's going" on its own time. Adding a few botanicals or leaves along the way is simply what you do to keep the process going. And it's extremely analogous to what happens in nature, as new materials fall into waterways throughout the year, while existing materials are carried off by currents or decompose completely.

Yeah, just like nature.

We're going to revisit the topic of "getting started" more often here, following what are turning into "best practices" and tips to get your botanical-style/blackwater aquarium off to a good start. We'll cover everything fro selecting ones that can help you achieve what you're trying to do, to the ongoing debate on the best way to prepare them, to learning about the environmental impact of the botanicals on your aquarium, and how the overall aquarium environment "evolved" in such an aquarium.

So much to cover, based on what we know.  So much yet to learn. It's a long game. 

Glad to have you along for the ride.

Stay excited. Stay focused. Stay creative. Stay adventurous.

And Stay Wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatis 

"Nature by numbers" and other parcels of knowledge that we should use to advance the state of the art...

Okay, I admit that I'm a huge fan of NOT chasing numbers and following absolute "recipes" to achieve success with aquariums. I mean, I know dozens of reef hobbyists who have literally driven themselves crazy trying to make sure that their calcium level is exactly ______ ppm, and their phosphate is ______ppm, or whatever. And yeah, I know a considerable number of freshwater guys who carry the same mindset. Like, matching the "numbers" from either some successful aquarium they admire or some article by some expert somewhere is the "Holy Grail" of success. 

And of course, objectively, we know it isn't.

Numbers are important, however. I'll give you that. And numbers don't lie or play favorites. They just exist. I'll have to admit, however, that despite my fear of "target fixation" when it comes to chasing environmental parameters (I've always said to find a range that you're comfortable with and don't let your parameters deviate from the range..), I do find some of the numbers from natural blackwater streams and other habitats fascinating, oddly compelling, and educating.

I realize, from the outset, that a tank is not a river, blah, blah, blah. However, there is much we can learn from understanding the environmental parameters of some of the will habitats we find so compelling.

In a recent study of Amazonian blackwater habitats near Manaus, Brazil, researchers came up with the following average parameters among the dozen or so sites surveyed: 

Ways for hobbyists to fail...a primer for advanced hobbyists, LFS employees, and, well- anyone who cares...

Okay, at the bit of sounding just a bit negative today, I'm pondering on a few things that have been on my mind lately when talking to a few people about creating and maintaining botanical-style aquariums. I'm thinking that I felt like writing this blog today because, as more an more hobbyists get into the game, they're attempting to start brand-new to the aquarium world, in less-conventional areas of the hobby, like the blackwater tanks, Rift Lake cichlids, or complex planted tanks, without any type of fundamental foundation. Or at the very least, starting down these specialized roads with very limited general experience, and some bad assumptions.

There are a lot of articles, blogs, and tips on "how to succeed at this-or-that" aspect of the hobby, which is awesome. But those of us who have been in the hobby and industry for a while have seen a lot of, for want of a better term- the "dark side" of the aquarium hobby. We've seen all kinds of hobbyists, businesses, and ideas come and go. And after a while, you get a distinct feeling that you know what works and what doesn't. You can see when "the train is headed for the washed-out bridge", or "the ship is steering into the rocks", if you will. And if you're in a position to intervene...you should if you can.

Today, in the hope that we can all learn about what does NOT work, I give you 5 ways to fail with aquariums. (This is really geared towards YOU- the more advanced aquarist, or the LFS person- in the interest of creating a discussion track for you to run with when dealing with someone who is completely new to aquariums, or maybe slightly experienced and perhaps...a bit misled.)

It's kind of our job, as advanced hobbyists, industry types, and good stewards of the aquarium-keeping  world to look at the absurdity of some of this stuff, so that we can prevent others from making these horrible mistakes! Here are my top 5. No doubt you have more, but it's a start!

1) Jump in without doing research. Yeah, seriously. The aquarium hobby as we know it has only been around for like 100 years or so. The tenants of basic aquarium husbandry are still wide open to “dismiss.” Examples? Well, don't worry about mixing fishes and plants from different environmental conditions together.  They can adapt, right? Calling your an aquarium a “community aquarium  somehow negates all of the potential downsides of mixing incompatible animals! Or, how  about this one: "That Pike Cichlid won't reach 14 inches! Everyone knows that fishes will grow to the size of their aquarium" and "adapt' just fine to smaller tanks! "I'll get a larger tank down the line." (If I had a dollar for every time I heard THAT one...)

2) Believing that this or that product will relieve you of the need to obey basic husbandry principles. Yeah, really! If you use this additive or employ this filter media or gadget, there is no need to worry about water quality. Ever! Feeding this food will prevent fish disease. Or, using this electronic controller means you'll never have to monitor water chemistry again! You go right to the finish line immediately! Just spending the money on ____________ automatically grants you an exemption from the "aquarium-keeping gods" and gives you special status whereby you can dismiss all of the "rules" and achieve success with minimal attention and effort. "I read on internet about this guy who..." Ughh.

3) Accelerating the timeline when establishing a new aquarium. Hey, the kids want to see fish in by Saturday for the party. "I'll start with just a few hardy fishes: Like, a dozen Mollies, six Gouramis, a few "Algae Eaters" (gotta have those)..." We've all seen and heard the various claims out there: Todays modern filters, additives, and gadgets will help you succeed despite having any knowledge of what you're doing! The nitrogen cycle is "instantly established" and your aquarium can achieve biological balance in a day with this stuff!" Regrettably, marketing hyperbole when taken out of context can give a newbie the completely wrong impression of the capabilities and applications for a product.

4) Continuing at full speed even when stuff is going wrong and animals are dying. I've seen this a lot on the coral side of the trade: A customer will buy a bunch of livestock, experience horrific losses (generally due to a complete disregard-intentional or otherwise- for the lack of an established nitrogen cycle or other basic tenants of husbandry), conclude without real research that the losses were due to "bad corals", and then continue to the next LFS, online vendor, breeder, etc. and grab another bunch of animals to replace the ones that died.  You see it in freshwater, too. After the second inevitable disaster ensues, some call "uncle" and either quit or make the effort to figure out why. Those who persist, continue to kill fish, buy and misapply products and equipment to solve the "problem", and typically leave the hobby soon after, concluding that "quality control" in the industry makes it impossible to succeed.

5) If you've developed a better way, or found a "breakthrough", don't share your experiences. Really. There is nothing anyone else can learn from you. Super tragic...You need to coax these types to share their gifts with the world!  Of course, there are others who won't share information because of some dark agenda: You've figured out this information after years of triumph and tragedy, so you're not just going give it away! It's "proprietary" in nature, and other hobbyists should learn the way you did. Be grumpy, and lock yourself and your secrets in your fish room, away from the "unworthy" denizens of the larger aquairum-keeping world. Yeah, there are actually hobbyists who think this way. There is almost no way to turn them, tragic as it may seem. The solution: Run from them. Run quickly.

Okay, I've just scratched the surface here. There are probably thousands of ways to fail in the aquarium hobby, and I've touched on just a few. The real important takeaway here is for those of us in a position to help to see the signs, and know what to do.

To LFS and vendor types out there, I especially direct this part of my plea to you: I think it's imperative that we encourage anyone who enters this hobby to do the research before they leap into things. Honestly, even someone coming into your shop completely green, but eager to drop money, should leave with little more than information, or a book at least, before they purchase anything. Really. 

A half hour of indoctrination in the LFS is just that- a half hour of indoctrination. It takes much more for the beginner to grasp what's really going on. And yeah, it seems "fantasy land" to take on this attitude when the internet beckons and competition is fierce, but I ask you: Wouldn't you rather send someone home with information first, and gain a long-term customer, than to just grab the quick and easy sale? Don't you think that someone who is successful in the hobby because you took the time to work with them will refer their friends to you? I do. Patience.

And if you are new and reading this. I commend you. A lot of your fellow neophytes, believe it or not, take an attitude that there is no need to pay some “dues." If you've achieve some success already, you've no doubt figured out the fact that you need to do at least some research. I can’t tell you how many times I spent tremendous amounts of time on the phone or on lengthy chat/email exchanges with neophyte "botanical-style" aquarium hobbyists who would literally ask me the most basic of questions, like, fundamental stuff-when this information is just everywhere- on line, in basic books- the kind of stuff you simply HAVE to know before you ever even buy a bag of sand or a light fixture, let alone embark on a journey into a specialized area with its own set of nuances, "quirks", and "best practices.

If you’re into something, wouldn’t you WANT to do some basic research? I mean, why try to keep Mbuna if you can't keep feeder guppies alive? Or, is it simply easier to buy first and then ask for an aquarium-keeping education from the dealer, and blame it on “whatever/whomever” when you fail?

I think too many of us want to solve problems with "products." I think that many aquarium problems are created by very basic mistakes, and that simply throwing money on the problem isn't really a solution. Rather, it's a "band aid." As advanced aquarists and industry people, I think we can change the paradigm a bit here...Rather than just offering the solution, whatever it may be, to the problem at hand, take the time to explain to the newbie just what it was that caused the issue in the first place, and how to prevent it. Knowing the cause, effects, and preventative/corrective measures to take is far better than simply buying this-or-that product as a “solution”, which just perpetuates the cycle of creating “minimum viable hobbyists”- i.e.; people who figure you don’t need to know the rules- you just kind of do it and then get “stuff” to fix the problems.

Preach patience to any new hobbyist. Get them to understand just how things work in a reef aquarium, and why things are done a certain way. Explain to them that aquariums, being natural systems, are affected by the same laws of nature as occur in the wild, and that grasping stuff like the nitrogen cycle, fish compatibility, environmental requirements, etc. will give them a greater understanding of what's going on, and how to recognize for themselves in the future when something is going wrong- or right! It's a better long term strategy, IMHO.

Above all, encourage sharing of information at all levels in the hobby. With the internet, there has never been a better time to learn about the hobby. To keep information that can help others accomplish things and solve problems in the hobby isn't just uncool- it's a tragedy that can have far-reaching consequences, especially in this era where the hobby and industry face mounting external pressures from ill-informed "environmentalists" and other "nature advocates", who would just assume lump aquarists in with loggers, oil producers, and blast fishermen. The hobby is ours to share, protect, preserve, and to pass on to our children. Or to lose.

So in conclusion, we should all learn to recognize the signs of a fellow aquarist who's headed in the wrong direction- not just because it's the honorable thing to do for them, but because of the greater good in the hobby that is served when we take the time to prevent them from failing. 

It’s our shared responsibility.

Until next time, I leave you with that thought.

Stay focused. Stay concerned. Stay patient.

And stay wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics