The Tint

Epiphanies, "edits on the fly", and wholesale changes..The value of unexpected detours.

Maybe it's me, but I think that playing with botanical-style aquariums has made me a better overall hobbyist. Not just because I'm learning how natural materials like leaves and seed pods and such interact with the aquatic environment, but considering the long-term implications of everything I add to my tanks.

Now, I encourage consideration of all of the changes we make to our aquariums...but I also advocate a bit of "chilling..." 

Yeah, I sometimes think that we, as hobbyists, tend to overthink stuff. We worry about getting off course, or not sticking to our goal.

Yet, we do that one more rotation of the rock or piece of driftwood, add that one more pinch of food, change that light setting just a bit more, etc., etc., etc. Sometimes, it creates the look you're after. Others, just frustration and more "edits..."

I can't hope but wonder how well things would do if we trust our initial instincts and simply stop after "the first round." You know, not going on and on an on and making more and more changes, to the point where they take us very far afield from the original goal we had.

Detouring.

Then again, what's wrong with epiphanies, edits on the fly, and wholesale changes to our best-laid plans? 

I know that I've done this before.

"Iterating" stuff to the point of obliterating my original concept. Changing things to such a great extent as to be completely different from what I originally intended to do. I remember in my early reef keeping days, this would happen a lot. Move that one rock or switch out that one coral colony for the purpose of "creating flow" or "making room for growth", or whatever, only to realize that a seemingly well-intentioned, simple change did not stand alone. Rather, it required me to move two other rocks; re-position one other coral colony...all of which resulted in completely different look and feel than I originally envisioned.

I think such "detours" are often beautiful- often leading to new ideas, new discoveries, new aesthetics, and inspiration for others. Things happening in unexpected ways are what can propel the hobby forward.

Everything doesn't have to follow a plan.

A detour can be amazing.

However, if your looking for a specific result and go too far in a different direction, it's often a recipe for frustration for those of us not prepared of it. Sure, many of us can simply "go with the flow" and accept the changes we made as part of the process, but the aquarist with a very pure vision and course will work through such self-created deviations until he or she gets to the destination. Many find this completely frustrating. Others find this a compelling part of the creative process.

Open your mind.

All of it is part of the journey.

Detours and "edits" or whatever you want to label them helps us perfect our craft, hone our skills, challenge our minds...and, if we're really lucky-they help create outcomes we never even imagined.

And the process usually starts with one rock. One piece of wood...One thought.

That's the beauty of detours.

Simple thought. 

Stay open-minded. Stay curious. Stay diligent. Stay prepared.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Filtering through the facts on...filtration!

For most hobbyists who are interested in botanical-style/blackwater aquariums and other "natural" systems, it seems like the real "thirst for knowledge" part of the equation is to locate the fishes, aquascaping materials, botanicals, etc. related to the work we're trying to do with a specific aquarium. However, it seems like the more "practical", nuts-and-bolts stuff, like filtration is just sort of "accepted."

Like, we don't think about it too much..until these questions arise.

And of course, at Tannin, we spend a great deal of time contemplating the look and feel of our botanical-syle aquariums, and wrapping our head around the various "mental shifts" necessary to really appreciate and embrace this approach...You know- learning not to fear the tinted water, decomposing botanical materials, biofilm, detritus, etc. 

And that's really great. It's foundational.

However, I must admit that another one of the "foundational" things we don't talk about as much as we should is filtration. We receive a surprisingly large number of questions on the topic.

Yeah, the ubiquitous, necessary, and highly important function of filtration in our aquariums is definitely something we, as lovers of leaves and botanicals, need to give a little thought to when we set up our systems. 

Of course, I could totally launch into a boring, been-there-done-that review on the various filtration types available in the hobby and what they do and blah, blah, blah...However, you wouldn't read it and you'd be yawning the whole time. I mean, there's a 50/50 chance you might be anyways, but hey...

Yet, filtration is less than exciting to many of us. It's like a hobby "must have" that, once we figure out, gets little more thought. Yet, in the context of our botanical-style tanks, it IS fairly important.

Now, first- my "disclaimer" of sorts: I'm no filter "expert." I'm not an aquarium "gearhead."  In fact, I really don't care much for the gear. It neither excites me or stimulates ideas for me. I view it as something necessary to operate an aquarium. Ouch! Sounds like I'm the PERFECT guy to write a piece on filters, hue? My thoughts on this topic are based, like everything I write- on my personal experience and ideas, laced with a healthy dose of "opinions" and stubbornness... 🤔

So, here's the "long and the short" of this topic:

You can use just about any type of filter available on your botanical-style blackwater/brackish aquarium. The real considerations, IMHO, are: A) where in the water column you are bringing in water, and b) Where the outputs are aimed. Oh, and C) what media you're using in the filter.

So, let's look a bit closer. 

I have used all sorts of filter systems on my BWBS style systems over the years, but the ones that I tend to use will surprise you...maybe. Maybe not.

As a reefer, I love my tanks with built in overflows and sumps.

(My friend Marc Levenson makes all sorts of badass sumps, btw...so look him up.)

I love sumps. I love them because:

a) You don't see any of the ugly shit (heaters, etc.) in the tank proper. Oh, and even that freakin' "glassware"- yes, I know that YOU may not think they're ugly, but I"m no fan of them as they are now. They completely and utterly suck in every way, in my humble opinion. I hate them. Why? We can have that discussion some other time, okay?

b) Sumps add water volume to your tank. As the sayings goes, "Dilution is the solution to pollution"- and stability! 

c) Sumps provide an area where you can keep filter media, biological media, botanicals, wood, etc. to influence environmental conditions in the display aquarium. Like, if you hate the look of leaves and decomposing stuff in your display, but love the blackwater look and biodiversity, sumps are a good choice. No, a great choice!

d) They rely on surface overflow "weirs" to supply water. Overflow weirs skim water from the surface, removing the film which accumulates and can interfere with gas exchange...Important when you have lots of botanicals in your tank breaking down, right?

"All in one" tanks, like my Innovative Marine "Fusion Lagoon" system, or my ULtum Nature Systems AIOs, offer a great "hybrid" of a sump and an external filter, making an affordable, simple, aesthetically clean, easy-to-maintain-and-operate system.

Now, I realize that not everyone wants the expense, logistics, challenges, and additional considerations (return pumps, space under the tank, etc.) which go along with the use of sumps. I also realize that the majority of freshwater hobbyists utilize glass aquariums without overflows and such, so there are numerous other options.

Enter the canister filters!

Where would the hobby be without Eheims, Fluvals, and all the other canisters out there? These are wonderful choices because they provide you so much flexibility. 

Flexibility is really important in what we do.

As is the ability to hide the "visuals" of ugly canister filters for obsessive types like me...there are plenty of approaches you could take...

And of course, they offer "functional flexibility"...You can keep botanicals, like various leaves, cones, catappa bark, "Fundo Tropical", etc.  in filter media bags/cartridges, again giving those of you who like the tinted water but not the botanicals and their associated decomposition, biofilms, and detritus- the ability to keep them outside of the display proper. 

Oh, and where the water comes back into the tank is pretty important, too!

IMHO, you should direct the return from canister filters near the surface, to create agitation and to facilitate gas exchange. Unlike pure planted aquariums, where there is a definite benefit from using those $&%#@@ "Lily Pipes" and such to return water well below the surface to preserve CO2, I personally believe that heavily-stocked botanical-style aquariums benefit from this surface agitation.

Did I mention that I hate those pipes? Just wanted to make sure.

I mean, you can return some of the water towards the lower levels of the tank to keep things "stirred up" just a bit, without blowing shit all over the tank. (that's a technical term, by the way).

And of course, outside power filters do the same thing- keep everything relatively neat and tidy, and potentially outside of the tank if you like.

Oh, and sponge filters are great- and those Matten Filters, too- because they are primarily biological filters and are relatively easy to hide in displays...

Now, I have spent a fair amount of time alleviating the fears of you weirdos who don't want to see leaves and pods and such in your tank physically by explaining that you can just toss these things into your filter or sump! And of course, it goes without saying that you can utilize all of these filters with the botanicals present in the display, as well, of course.

Like, duh.

The real "issue", if you want to call it that- with filtration in regards to our BW/BS-style aquariums is what media you utilize. Again, I call on my reef-keeping experience to tell you that I am a huge fan of activated carbon. I use it on every tank I set up- even the ones with the gnarliest (yes, it's a word- I'm from L.A.- it's a word. Deal with it.), darkest "tint"  imaginable. 

I love activated carbon.

Yes, carbon can remove some of the tint and probably even some of the valued humic substances and other beneficial compounds exuded by botanicals. It's not selective. That being said, it also can remove impurities, like volatile dissolved organic compounds, urea, some metals, etc. It's valuable stuff. The key is to just not overdo it. Of course, if you want leaves and such in your tank, but not the tint- as we've discussed many times- just use the 'typical" dose of carbon and you have the best of both worlds- at least, aesthetically.

Better as chemical filtration media would be stuff like specialized ion-exchnage or "organic scavenger resins" and zeolites- stuff which requires more research, trial and error, and testing. But it is possible, at least in theory, to incorporate filtration media which removes the undesirable pollutants and retains the desired humic substances and tannins. Oh, and proper biological function in low pH systems, fostering the "biome" of these tanks.

I like "Poly Filter",  as it removes organics and can remove stuff liek ammonia even in low pH systems. In my years of working with this stuff, I have not seen it remove the "tint" in the water caused by tannins from botanicals. This is hardly a scientific assessment of the stuff, but I believe in it. I've used it for decades in pretty much every type of aquarium- fresh, brackish, reef- that I've maintained with excellent results. 

And back to those "specialized resins" and such...

These things are are all something we will see more of in the future...trust me. There are numerous materials out there, used in other water purification work , that will definitely work with our aquariums.

In the mean time, you can continue use materials like carbon, Purigen, etc. to do the trick; just be aware of the way they work and what they will do. If you go "full power" (ie; the typical manufacturers' recommended "dose"), you'll have a really clear tank- if that's what you want.

Nonetheless, I adore Seachem Purigen.

It's a "macro-porous synthetic polymer" (aka "organic scavenging resin") that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water by adsorption. In other words, it cleans up stuff.

Like, really well.

I think every aquarist should have Purigen in their "box of fish stuff...not just for regular use, but for...well...emergencies and stuff. It's really good stuff.

And of course, we recommend mechanical filtration media, like plastic "noodles", filter pads, floss, etc., and of course, biological media, too- you know, the ceramic beads and such.

And no, I didn't even touch on how to optimize the placement and utilization of filter media in your filter, etc. That  stuff has been written about for many years by people who are way more interested and knowledgable about it than I am. Don't be lazy- Google it, if you're so inclined.

In summary- my advice is to use whatever type of filter system you like. The key is how you utilize it- what media you employ, where you draw the tank water into it, and where it's returned.

And, like with everything else we play with in this arena, there is plenty of room for experimentation, innovation, and even breakthroughs in regards to filtration in our BWBS systems. 

This is a real "open source" component of what we do. An invitation and opportunity for YOU- the working aquarist- to make a big impact on the hobby, fostering benefits perhaps as yet not understood...

So, yeah- use what works for you, benefits your fishes, and creates the best outcomes. At its best, this is a summary of ideas and hopefully, a brief dossier on potential "things to do in the future."

Stay excited. Stay engaged. Stay bold. Stay curious. Stay inquisitive. Stay innovative. Stay diligent...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Back to biofilms...yet again.

If there is one thing that unites us in the botanical-style aquarium segment of the hobby, it's that gooey, slimy, stringy stuff known as "biofilm."

Biofilm.

YES, BIOFILM!

Fairly regularly, we get emails or DM's asking about the "stringy stuff covering my leaves"- so it's always a good idea to discuss it from time to time.

Even the word conjures up an image of something that you really don't want in your tank. Something dirty, yucky...potentially detrimental to your aquarium's health. 

And, let's be honest with ourselves here. The damn dictionary definition is not gonna win over many "haters":

Well, apart from the unpleasant-sounding description of the stuff, and it's "snot-like" appearance, the concept of biofilms and how they form is actually kind of interesting.

Not "charming." I didn't say that. But interesting, for sure.

Biofilms form when bacteria adhere to surfaces in some form of watery environment and begin to excrete a slimy, gluelike substance, consisting of sugars and other substances, that can stick to all kinds of materials, such as- well- in our case, botanicals.

It starts with a few bacteria, taking advantage of the abundant and comfy surface area that leaves, seed pods, and even driftwood offer. The "early adapters" put out the "welcome mat" for other bacteria by providing more diverse adhesion sites, such as a matrix of sugars that holds the biofilm together.

Since some bacteria species are incapable of attaching to a surface on their own, they often anchor themselves to the matrix or directly to their friends who arrived at the party first.

Sorta sounds a lot like Facebook, huh?

(The above graphic from a scholarly article illustrates just how these guys roll.)

And we could go on and on all day telling you that this is a completely natural occurrence; bacteria and other microorganisms taking advantage of a perfect substrate upon which to grow and reproduce, just like in the wild. Freshly added botanicals offer a "mother load"of organic material for these biofilms to propagate, and that's occasionally what happens - just like in nature.  

Yet it does, so we will! :)

Terrestrial materials- famously, leaves- recruit biofilms like mad when submerged.

They are an integral part of flooded forest habitats...and pretty much every aquatic habitat they is. They assist with nutrient processing, sediment stabilization- oh, and they provide food for many fishes, too.

Is there a "darkside" to biofilms? Of course.

Like anything else, too much of a "good thing" can cause problems in rare instances.

Frightening, "aquarium armageddon scenarios" could play out. For example, in an extremely overcrowded aquarium (or a very small one) with marginal husbandry and filtration, with a huge amount of biofilm (relative to tank volume) caused by an equally huge influx of freshly-added botanicals, there is always the possibility that bacteria within the biofilms can multiply extremely rapidly, reducing the level of oxygen in the rest of the aquarium, which could lead to a dramatic reduction of CO2 being released out of the water. This, in turn, could lead to CO2 levels rising quickly and sharply, potentially causing asphyxiation to the animals in the tank- including the lovable nitrifying bacteria that support it.

Now, that's a true "doomsday scenario"- brought about by a non-sustainably-managed/populated aquarium, improper preparation and rapid, excessive additions of botanicals, and complete lack of common sense on the part of the aquarist, in terms of husbandry.

So yeah.

There IS a darkside to biofilms. If you create circumstances to foster one.

The real positive takeaway here: Biofilms are really a sign that things are working right in your aquarium! A visual indicator that natural processes are at work.

Yet, understandably, it may not make some of you feel good. However, it being "natural" and all...perhaps you could take some comfort in hearing more about what to expect?

First off, take comfort in the fact that this is typically sort of a "passing phase", and can take anywhere from a few days to 2-3 weeks before it subsides on it's own to some level that you can live with.  It will never fully "go away." You don't WANT it too. Realize that biofilms are present in every aquairium, to some degree. Yeah, even your "Nature Aquariums", guys.

Welcome to Planet Earth.

We get it, though- some of you just don't want this stuff, despite its "charms."

Okay, well, when you've got a lot of this material in your aquarium, and it's causing you considerable worry, stress, and just plain giving you a case of the shivers, there are some actions you can take ( besides cursing the whole idea of throwing aquatic botanicals in your system in the first place).

What to do? Here are a few time-tested options:

• You can wait it out. That's right. Do nothing, except appreciate the wonders of nature, no matter how unsightly they may be at times. I mean, didn't nature make the "Death Flower" and the "Slime Mold?" Seriously. Yeah. And this is nicer to experience than "terrestrial" biofilms, like, oh, let's say... plaque!

• You can remove the offending botanicals/leaves, give them a good scrub with a soft bristle brush (like an old toothbrush), a rinse in fresh water, and put 'em back in. And of course, it will come back.

• You can remove the botanicals, give them a good scrub, and re-boil/soak them again. Although a bit redundant, and in our opinion, not necessary, this procedure does have the advantage of removing some of the trapped organics that lead to the initial "outbreak", but you may see it happen again.

• You can leave the botanicals in place, and employ some natural "control", in the form of ornamental shrimp. Yeah, that's right- your "Crystal Red Shrimp", "Bee Shrimp", and the rest of those tiny, overpriced, yet engaging little crustaceans  absolutely adore biofilms, and will attack it voraciously. Alternatively, we've learned that some fishes, like Plecos, some Corydoras cats, and even Leporinus and other "Headstanders" seem to pick at this stuff fairly aggressively. In fact, I've seen Pencilfishes and other small characins pick at it.

Again, the reality here is that in an otherwise well-managed, sustainably-populated aquarium, at best the largest blooms of the stuff will be a temporary nuisance, subsiding to a tolerable level, or even being almost unseen, for as long as you have the aquarium in operation.

Remember, it's all part of the game with a blackwater, botanical-influenced aquarium. A part of that "mental shift" towards accepting and appreciating a more truly natural-looking, natural-functioning aquarium. The "price of admission", if you will- along with the tinted water, decomposing leaves, etc., the dues you pay, which ultimately go hand-in-hand with the envious "ohhs and ahhs" of other hobbyists who admire your completed aquarium when they see it for the first time.

Now, there are a lot of you who have come to admire, and even love the whole idea of biofilm. Like, those of you who love the aforementioned ornamental shrimp. You understand the value of having a periodic "crop" of this stuff available for your shrimp to "graze" upon. You actually are wanting to foster it. 

So, what are the botanicals which seem to give you the best shot at purposely "recruiting" the stuff? Well, pretty much all of them- in fact, almost anything you put underwater- will recruit some biofilms at some point. However, in our experience, there are a few which seem to "recruit" more biofilms initially than others.

They are:

Pyrifolium Pods-  which also tend to soften more quickly on their interior than many other botanicals, rendering them more attractive to biofilms in the early phases of their "run" in an aquarium.

Magnolia leaves- Yup, these most beloved, tannin-imparting leaves have that waxy "cuticle" that seems to recruit biofilm more quickly than other leaves during their first weeks of submersion. It seldom lasts very long, generally subsiding dramatically on it's own quite fast. 

Dregea Pod- Another lightweight botanical with an interior that seems to soften very quickly, recruiting a good amount of biofilm in the process. And, interestingly,  the biofilms tend not to linger very long on this pod, so "make hay while the sun shines" and let your shrimp have at 'em quickly!"

Jackfruit Leaves - These cool leaves tend to be attractive to shrimp anyways; however, with the "value added" benefit of rapid biofilm recruitment, your shrimp will feel like you really appreciate them, and you, in turn, will no longer any harbor resentment for the shrimps' ridiculous $400USD per gram price tag. (sorry, couldn't resist!)

Now, you may have other favorites for this purpose, and we could probably devote a whole damned article to it (Why not, I've just written a thousand-plus words on biofilm! Where else in the aquarium world are you going to find that kind of content every day- for free, nonetheless? And yet, some of you still buy generic, "non-romanced" Catappa leaves from some clown on E-Bay. Really? Huh? How DO you sleep at night? Have I guilted you yet?)

Okay, this "periodic review" of biofilms is getting a bit "long-winded", and even a bit nasty- but you get the idea. I could pretty much name every botanical in our category and tell you it will recruit biofilms.

That's a reality.

Biofilms are absurdly common in nature, and a part of pretty much any aquarium, yet a bit more significant (and noticeable) when you play with aquatic botanicals. They are not to be feared- although they should be respected, studied, understood- and ultimately, utilized as food by your animals!

Stay mellow. Stay calm. Stay brave. Stay curious. Stay patient. Stay inspired...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Moving forward boldly...

Our world is one of constant change, interesting developments...and occasionally, breakthroughs.

Blackwater, botanical-style aquariums are certainly gaining a lot of attention in the hobby world at the moment. I'd really love to think of this not as some "trend", but as more of a methodology of aquarium keeping. Less of a "novelty"- more of an option.

Now, one of the best things about these types of aquariums is that there are no hard and fast "style rules." There are only Nature's "restrictions" and her limitations. She imposes physical "laws" which dictate "how stuff works." We can operate all over within her parameters, but we cannot circumvent her laws. 

We can and should find ways to work with Nature to try some new and different stuff; respecting her limits, while gently probing outward around the edges. 

That being said, and "best practices" aside, every situation, every tank, every nuance is unique, and this requires "customized" solutions for every aquarium. Sure, the methodology/strategy might be something which we can more or less "standardize"- but not the "formula."

I learned this in my reef-keeping and coral propagation days. Why is it that one guy can run a beautiful, coral-dominant tank with levels of phosphate that would simply create a blanket of algae in some other hobbyist's tank who operated at the same parameters?

The answer likely is that they are doing other things- making other accommodations- to create an optimized environment in other areas. And as hobbyists, we can sort of choose which areas we want to play with, while respecting others.

Trade-offs required here. We can realistically replicate many aspects of the natural environment, yet we need to really think long and hard about replicating others on a more "accurate" level.

As an example, the Rio Negro and its many tributaries provide us many different fishes that we love to keep in aquariums. The Rio Negro’s water is extremely poor in mineral content, with conductivity as low as 8 micro semions, and is extremely acidic, with pH’s ranging from 2.9 to 5.2. That's pretty damn acidic by aquarium standards, isn't it? How can you replicate water like that in your aquarium?

DO you want to?

Well, you'd start by utilizing RO/DI water and "conditioning it" with botanicals and such, which will likely only get you so far. There would likely be additional steps required, like the addition of acid solutions, different pH-reducing natural materials in your filter. Utilization of filter media like zeolites, and more detailed monitoring. And slightly different water-quality maintenance approaches. This stuff touches on the fringes of what a lot of us are comfortable doing.

And wouldn't it be easier to create and maintain these conditions with some compromising, like finding out the "average" of the pH and other parameters of the habitat you're trying to replicate and either going for it or perhaps, for the higher, easier-to-achieve higher limits of pH in the habitat, for example?

I think so. And I don't really see a problem with that. Do you?

Of course, every once in a while, I'll receive what I like to call a "gotcha!" email from some self-proclaimed hobby "guardian" telling me stuff like, "You're not really creating exact replications of Nature." Or,  "You can't have a pH of 6.2 and have a blackwater aquarium." Or, "___________________ come from a habitat where the pH is 4.3..."

Well, no shit!

People love to call "bullshit" on stuff in the hobby. I mean, when outrageous claims are being made without proof- they should. However, in many cases, it's just someone wanting to satisfy their own insecurities by regurgitating assorted facts and selected, re-hashed pieces of information which may or may not have basis in truth or experience- and often, this bullying serves to discourage people from even trying new stuff-let alone, talking about it.

I typically laugh at these emails, because 9 times out of 10, whomever writes them generally has missed the point entirely, likely never tried doing even what we are doing now, doesn't read our blogs or discussions, fails to realize that we NEVER make outrageous assertions and claims, and worst of all, has no personal successful experience with whatever he or she is telling us that we're NOT doing.

Not helpful.

Please don't be discouraged when you face such "criticisms." Sure, some constructive criticism should always be welcome. But consider the source, as they say! And, be realistic about your ideas, theories, intentions, and goals. 

Obviously, whatever we do in the confines of an aquarium is at best a simulation of some aspects of Nature. It's ludicrous for me, or anyone else to suggest otherwise (and we don't). There ARE hobbyists who, by virtue of their scientific training, significant experience, a willingness to go for it, and a set of brass ones- DO try crazy-cool stuff like lowering the pH of their aquariums to 4.5 or whatever, and operating them that way for extended periods. 

They're the true pioneers. Hats off to these guys. People like Ted Judy, who's accommodated Angelfish and such by manipulating pH with carefully introduced acid solutions.

Cutting edge stuff, for sure!

And for the rest of us- those not interested in pushing the "bleeding edge" too far?

Well, even with a sort of "compromised accommodation" approach, you'd be providing your fishes with environmental conditions that are far more "realistic" than those typically provided in aquariums, right? Is there even a significant benefit to doing so? I believe so, but that's going to require some experimentation over time to prove. A "body of work" provided by a large community of hobbyists working on this kind of stuff.

That's what we need to do.

Yeah, easy for me to sit here and talk about, but it will require some work to back up this hypothesis!

And again, we've accomplished many amazing things without going too crazy into trying to more accurately replicate these natural conditions. yet, I just can't help but wonder what we'd accomplish if we go just that much farther. The examples which Nature provides us are many and varied.

We are getting better at this as a hobby/industry.

We're making a lot less "blanket statements" like, "You can't do that!"- and instead, asking far more often, "How can we do that?" 

And the means to experiment boldly are in place.

Think about it.

We can create more habitat-specific water parameters right now, because we have the means and way more accurate and "applicable" information about the natural habitat from which our fishes come from than ever before, and ways to monitor it that simply weren't available to the hobby years ago.

Couple this with better management of lighting, thanks to LED's, more controllable current, thanks to high-tech, electronically controlled pumps, and very accurate temperature and water parameter control thanks to better monitoring/controller tech- and we're assured a continued progression towards more nature-specific captive environments for our animals.

Oh, and of course, there's the foods. Food is getting better than ever, and we're starting to see foods that contain a higher percentage of natural foods of many fishes- like aquatic insects, fruits, crustaceans, flies, etc. 

Huge.

And you can state it enough- today's hobbyist is talented, intuitive, creative, smart, compassionate, and communicative in a way never before possible. The work being done is amazing! And the confidence to move forward boldly has never been greater.

The "next-level" breakthroughs will require just as much courage, effort, and creativity as they did in decades past, but the means to accomplish them are now at our fingertips. And the experiments need not be ridiculously radical.

Now, we'd like to help facilitate such hobbyist-level research. I've thought seriously about offering periodic "Tint Grants" for hobbyists who want to do work related to botanical-style natural aquariums (blackwater, brackish water, etc.) with the intent of learning and sharing some new ideas. Like, perhaps we'd make available some of our products and a small amount of cash to help do this. Would you or someone you know be interested in such a "grant?" 

Of course, let's be straight. The ideas we're looking to support aren't things like,  "I want to try a botanical-style tank to see if my wife will like the look. Oh, and I want to breed some Apistos!" or, "I want to set up a 150-gallon high-tech botanical aquascape for wild bettas to see what the effects are." Or, "I have this idea for a cool 'scape with 50 Sterculia Pods..." or, "Im interested in growing crawfish in blackwater to see if they taste different than those which I raise in clearwater ponds..."

No, that's not the kind of stuff that we're talking about! With all due respect, this isn't about just tossing you some goodies to play with, 'scape a tank, share a few pics, and maybe an Instagram post tagging us. 

No. 

Rather, if you have a specific experiment- one which will provide some good information, inspiration, and provoke discussion in our community and beyond..I'm into that. Now, it doesn't have to be some full-on scientifically-based, double-blind study thing. However, it does need to be something that will explore something that is significant and relevant to our community. 

And you'll need to update us. You'll be required to regularly "report" on your progress, struggles, breakthroughs, and findings. It will have a finite period of time (several months, I would imagine) to be conducted and summarized.

Would you be into that?

Would this be helpful? if it's something cool that people embrace-and if we get useful information (trust me, once you're "approved"- our community will know and expect some updates!)- perhaps we'll do this semi-annually or quarterly.

Kick it around. Let us know if you're interested. Give us some feedback on how we should structure this...assuming you think it's a good idea.

In the mean time- move forward...boldly.

Stay creative. Stay inquisitive. Stay curious. Stay excited. Stay inspirational...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

The great killifish conundrum...

There are certain fishes in the aquarium world that will simply grab ahold of your attention and not let go. For me, it's been characins and killifish. Yeah, killifish! The seemingly forgotten, yet utterly engrossing group with amazing colors, diverse spawning habits, and adaptability should make them some of the most popular fishes in the hobby!

Yet, they're most definitely NOT.

To me, the reasons above and many others have kept them "top of mind" for me over the years, even though I may not always have kept them consistently.Their relative difficulty to obtain has sort of added to the mystique for me. That and the fact that they typically will not have "common names", and are generally referred to by their scientific name, followed by a geographic locale and some other numbers makes them all the more alluring to me!

Hmm... "geographic locales" never scared anyone...

Yet, I digress... these arcane names don't help in the splashy, superficial "Insta world" of social media that we've created I the 21st century, I admit.

I mean, shit- there's like 0.000034% chance that a fish with a name like "Austrolebias arachan, UYRT 2015-04" is EVER gonna knock off the Cardinal Tetra or Angelfish and crack the "Hot 1,000" list of the most popular aquarium fishes, right? 

Yet, the precise Latin descriptors and type localities bely a secret to those who do the work...they give us information of incalculable value about the specific biotope/habitat from where the fish hails from. And to those of us who strive to replicate- on many levels- the wild habitats from which our fishes come from, this stuff is pure GOLD! 

(Chromaphyosemion bivittatum, pic by Mike PA Calnun)

And of course, one of the things I like best about killifishes is that many come from habitats that would be perfect for us to replicate with our skills and interest. Hobbyists who keep killies may not be as into the aesthetics of blackwater or botanical-style aquariums as we are, but nonetheless, they understand the dynamics of using natural botanical materials like peat moss, coir, and leaves to stimulate spawning and provide health benefits for their fishes!

Perhaps what also attracts me to them is the fact that they are (for the most part) small, super-colorful fishes who have managed to adapt and evolve to life in very unusual environmental niches, like puddles, small creeks, temporary pools- stuff like that. And of course, these are extremely "botanically-influenced" habitats, replete with leaves, soil/mud substrates, branches, etc. The killies are intimately linked to the characteristics of their habitats, and the seasonal changes which impact them. 

It's utterly fascinating.

(Kwango Province, Congo- Image by Thomas Minesi)

Interestingly, we have seldom, if ever seen them being kept in anything other than a dedicated breeding setup with spawning mops and bare bottoms. I think this has perpetuated the popular perception that they require the dreaded "specialty conditions" (hobby vernacular for "weird shit that's hard to do..."), and the need for 200-tank setups that will turn you into the aquarium version of the "crazy cat lady", thus smashing your interpersonal relationships to pieces. And of course, this pretty much scares the crap out of the typical armchair hobbyist.

That's where we come in.

I think that attempting to replicate, to some extent, the aquatic habitats from which they come would go a long way towards making these adaptable and attractive fishes more popular in the hobby! And instead of 300-odd  plastic shoeboxes filled with killies, you might have like 6 different "biotope-inspired" aquarium for killies (I say that now...). How you manage your interpersonal relationships is your call- but I think we make it a bit easier with our approach, right? 😆

(Fp. amieti, pic by Mike PA Calnun)

Sure, some may be shy, skittish, aggressive, come from soft, acidic water, brackish(!), or whatever- but the last time I checked, we have this...global community of skilled, adventurous aquarium hobbyists playing with blackwater, botanicals, and the availability of all sorts of "twigs and nuts" to create these kinds of specialty tanks. And we're into some pretty geeky stuff, ourselves, right?

We can keep these fishes with ease, so...

We often hear the argument that they are not particularly prolific breeders, or don't live too long (in the case of "annual" species, sure...but how many years have you kept a Cardinal Tetra alive for?). I think that's a really lame excuse not to keep them!

(Fp. gardneri in a natural setup. Image by Mike PA Calnun)

My other "counterpunch" here is that, curiously, we're seeing more and more wild Betta species showing up in local fish stores worldwide...Really friggin' obscure ones, too...And SOMEONE is breeding them. And they are finding a place in botanical-style, blackwater aquariums!

Yep. Killies can, too.

And if we look at some of the more popular killifishes, such as the Aphyosemion, Chromaphyosemion, and Funduloopanchax species, there are a variety of ecological adaptations to their environments that have made them extremely compelling subjects for those of us interested in creating natural-type setup for them. 

(Mike PA Calnun's African killie and Neolebias biotope-inspired aquarium is a fantastic example of the possibilities that await the adventurous killie enthusiast when we step out of the box a bit!)

Granted, this is different than what "hardcore" killie breeders will do- and not as efficient for breeding as setting them up in bare tanks/plastic sweater boxes with spawning mops- but it's a different way to enjoy these unique fishes, and to celebrate the unique ecological niches from which they come!  I simply don't think that we as killie fans have done a great job "de-mystifying" these fishes and their needs. As mentioned above, we have seldom, if ever see them being kept in anything other than those "utilitarian-looking" dedicated breeding setups with spawning mops and bare bottoms- and lots of people assume that is THE way.

It's not.

It's time to kick that unfair reputation that killies have earned to the curb, once and for all.

Now, there are literally hundreds of species of killies to choose from, running the gamut from top-spawning species which deposit eggs in floating plants, to the famous South American and African annuals, which deposit their eggs in the mud and sediments at the bottom of the temporary pools which they inhabit, so it would be impossible to "generalize" a biotope-inspired "generic" setup for all these types. However, one could create a more-or-less "generalized" setup for say, species which come from small African streams and pools. 

(Aphyosemion over leaf litter Wamba, DR Congo- image by Ashley Gordon)

For many of the Aphyosemion and Fundulopanchax species, you can replicate their leaf-and branch-choked habitats with, well- leaves and branches! And seed pods, and a few aquatic and even terestrial plants. We do this shit pretty well already...don't we?

Researching the flora and aquatic topography of areas in Camaroon and Nigeria can yield lots of great information which you can use to create some really cool tanks! In general, Africa has been, in my opinion, under-represented in our aquariums, and killies represent an amazing opportunity to learn more about these habitats and the unique fishes which inhabit them.

(Fp. gardneri Pic by Mike PA Calnun)

Many of these streams and pools feature muddy or fine-sediment materials on the substrate. You could replicate this with many of the planted aquarium substrates, mixed in with more common materials like sand and even our "Fundo Tropical" and "Susbtrato Fino" additives, or the more "igapo-specific" substrates we'll be releasing soon...

With some good research and study, it is entirely possible to create remarkably realistic and functionally aesthetic aquariums for many species of killifish. And the concept is simply no different than anything else we do for any other fishes in our blackwater/botanical-style aquariums. 

We just need to get the fishes. And you can, easily, from breeders in places like AquaBid, or; go all the way and join The American Killifish Association and really get to know some of the amazingly skilled hobbyists happily playing with these amazing fishes. You'll find a global community happy to lend you a hand, answer questions, and sell you some fishes or eggs to get you started on your way.

(The topography and flora of Camaroon contribute significantly to the aquatic habitats of the region. Image by C. Hence, used under CC BY-SA 3.0)

Obviously, a little blog piece like this can do little more than call some quick attention to the possibilities that are out there for this approach. My hope is that more of you will utilize the skills you've acquired at both keeping and breeding fishes and working with botanical-style aquariums. By marrying these two skill sets, the possibilities which can unfold are many!

We just need to get out there, do a little research, and get a tank or two going. Oh- and we need to share this work. On the "big stage"- the more generalized hobby world-outside of dedicated hardcore killie forums and pages. 

Let's look at some of these unique fishes and the habitats from which they come, and give them more of the attention they deserve in the hobby! 

Killies can totally be getting their fair share of expose to the larger hobby world. Killie lovers need to let go of 1978-era excuses and complaints about why they aren't out there, and simply share these fishes in more unique, relatable ways. We can't keep "self-medicating" on excuses and complain about it when the opportunity is there to "blow up" interest in these fishes! There's these platforms called ""Facebook and "Instagram" and "Snapchat"- crazy-ass ways to spread ideas quickly...We should look 'em up once in a while, post something on a general hobby-interest forum- like a pic and descriptions of a cool display tank with killies- and get people talking.

We should.

It just hasn't been happing...Not enough, anyways.

Why aren't we doing this? George Farmer, "The Aquascaper" himself put down a Killie tank for the ages not long ago...That tank should have inspired thousands!

I won't accept the excuse that, "Oh, I tried it before but no one was interested." No, you didn't do it in an effective way that conveys the wonder and fascination of these fishes to a wider audience, and as a result, interest in these fishes is still needlessly relegated to the darker, more specialized corners of the hobby. 

Hmm, sounds like what was said about...blackwater aquariums...or brackish, for that matter before we all decided to bring it out of obscurity, doesn't it?

Yeah, it does. And we know how that's sort of working itself out, right?

We can do this.

Just seeing an aquarium set up to replicate, say, a small vernal pool in West Africa, housing fishes from the genera Epiplatys, Rivulus, Fundulopanchax, or Aphyosemion- amazingly colorful, small, and interesting fishes- would blow away just about everyone in the hobby who has been on the fence about them for years! And really researching a proper biotope- or biotope inspired tank could teach the hobby and the non-hobby world alike about these amazing fishes and their  often fragile habitats. And their unique reproductive strategies (as in the case of annual species and "bottom spawners") are amazing in and of themselves. 

Oh, and you can economically purchase most of them as eggs (in water or peat moss) and raise them from fry yourself, easily and sustainably, as touched on before. One of the worst-kept hobby "secrets" there is, IMHO.

And these fishes are OUT there. Hello, American Killifish Association! Hello, killie hobbyist forums on Facebook. Hello Aqua Bid!

I'm sorry if I'm coming across a bit "harsh" on this.

I can see how some people might take this little kick in the ass in the wrong way- but I think that this "tough love" and request for us to look at what we're not doing well enough- from a big fan, no less- is warranted. I just get tired of hearing the same excuses for stuff with no new action being taken- especially when the excuses are made by incredibly talented people who can bring so much to the table...

Enough. 1978 is 40 years in the past. Time to work on the future!

Who's in?

We all should be. Killifish are some of the absolute best examples of sustainability, responsibility, and dedication that the aquarium world has to offer. They teach patience, inspire research, and are an amazing group of fishes to specialize in.

Let's show them the love they deserve!

Stay excited. Stay resourceful. Stay diligent. Stay inspired...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

In a new light...

With our focus on botanically-influenced natural aquariums, there is an explosion of  discoveries, "unlocks", and even game-changing paradigm shifts. And of course, as with any new adventure, we tend to bring along much of what we already know in the hobby.

As we've discussed ad naseum, the husbandry techniques and maintenance practices we've learned in other areas of the hobby will absolutely serve us well here, and might evolve or change somewhat to fit the needs of the types of aquatic habitats we're representing. However, there are some things- like, our fish selections, which don't need to change. 

In fact, they shouldn't, really. We need to bring along many of our "old friends" for the ride. 

We are so caught up looking for the newest and rarest, that we may often overlook that which is always in front of us, huh? It got me thinking, which is cooler: An ultra-rare Pleco or Mbuna, or a fantastic specimen of a "common" fish like the Glowlight Tetra, that has inspired such a passion for then hobby for so long- displayed in an aquarium that's a perfectly unedited representation of their natural habitat? I know, I know. The first thing you think of when you hear the words “common fishes” are those "regulation-issue" translucent grey "Bloodfins" or boring "assorted" Cichlisoma, or dull silvery-colored Barbs...whatever. 

The so-called "dirt-brown" Corys, "non-distinctive" Swordtails , and "generic" Neon Tetras take on a whole new look when kept in conditions which resemble those in which they evolved over millions of years. Not just aesthetically but from a physical/ environmental standpoint, as well! When you see the "dirt brown" Cory in an aquarium which resembles its natural habitat in form and function, suddenly it makes sense why the fish looks the way it does.

And it usually looks pretty spectacular! There is something about "context" which makes all the difference in the world, isn't it?

In a new light...

How about fostering truly gorgeous specimens of these so-called “common” fishes? How about creating an aquarium based upon their specific needs- or replicating aspects of their natural habitats. Like, why NOT create a tank specifically for the good old "Head and Tail Light" Tetra, or the Glass Catfish?

Yeah, so called "common" fishes...Old friends, if you will. When you give an old friend the star treatment- anything is possible. Think back to the beginnings of your hobby experience...and think what you could do with those "basic fishes" with your evolved skill set, mental shift-optimized attitude, and experience!

Want a personal example of a beloved, "beginner's fish" I've almost forgotten about over the decades?

(I was just thinking...How would YOU like to be called a "beginner's fish", anyways? And, what the &^%$ does that mean, anyways?)-S.F.

As a kid, I think one of the most memorable sights in my first aquarium, complete with blue gravel and plastic plants, was my group of 8 Zebra Danios  (Danio rerio) racing at high speed around the tank in a furious fashion, as if they had to get somewhere in a big freaking hurry...only to reverse course, and do it all again. I've never forgotten how much I liked the Zebras- or almost every other Danio species kept in the aquarium. 

And the amazing thing about this fish is that it's probably THE most bulletproof species you can keep. In fact, I recall reading somewhere that it's "tolerated temperature range" based on wild type localities is from 76.2 – 101.5°F (24.6 – 38.6°C). I mean, if THAT isn't a broad range, nothing is! And it tolerates water with a pH from 6.0-8.0.

Yeah, these guys are hardly what you'd call "fussy" fish!

And you know me- once I hear that, I get these weird ideas like, "What if we mimic the conditions of the natural habitat of the fish? Would they do better? IS there an advantage somewhere?" I think like this for so many fishes, as if to shun the fact that 90% of what we keep in the aquarium these days has never seen a stream, pond, or river...

It's just..I don't know..irresistible to me to think about this kind of stuff! Taking the most common of common aquarium fishes and giving them "throwback" conditions; seeing if it somehow "awakens" something locked into their genetic code over eons...something...

I mean, it's kind of silly, I suppose...there are so many other things to do in the hobby...yet I can't help but wonder if we can learn something from replicating some aspects of their long-forgotten wild habitats...

And, in regards to the Zebra Danio, what's interesting to me is the habitats in which these fish are found. Typically, these fishes are found in Northern India, and this area is subjected to seasonal rainfall between the months of June and September due to the summer Monsoon, and the water levels and characteristics vary considerably at different times of the year. They are often found in inundated rice paddies and marginal pools, with silty, kind of turbid water with very little movement. During the dry times of the year, they spend their time in calm, shaded areas of streams, with rocky substrates. 

This is interesting, because it reminds me a bit of the Amazon igarape, although instead of rain forest, you've got rice paddies...

And, I've been playing with rice seeds, silted substrates, and turbid water lately! Hmmm...

So, my simple thought is...this fish seems to hang out in what we as hobbyists would think of us "less desirable" conditions for much of the year- the silty rice paddies...And only spends the dry season in the more permanent, less turbid streams. Why would this be? Is there some advantage? Like food, better substrates for breeding, protection? Why the turbid water? What does it bring to the fishes?

Would there be an advantage to keeping a fish like the Zebra in different conditions different times of the year, as in nature? Or simply in a tank representing one of the two habitats it's found in. Would you WANT or NEED to? I mean, the fish has been a captive-bred staple of the hobby for almost a century...but I can't help but wonder why these fishes live the way they do in the wild. What advantages do these habitats hold for the fish?

Would you get different behaviors, colors, health, spawning out of the fish by doing this "seasonal transition"..? Using a very fine sand substrate, maybe mixed in with some mud or something similar to replicate the rice paddies, with pump returns very gently angled at the bottom to simulate turbidity?

Again, why, you ask?

My answer? I just think it could be kind of cool. Weird, but cool.

Am I the only one who imagines weird stuff like this? Maybe?

On second thought- don't answer that!

I know, the fish is bred by the billion in fish farms all over the world, as are many much sexier, domesticated strains of its relatives...but wouldn't it be interesting to see what happens when you "repatriate" these "common" fishes to an uncommon execution of their natural habitats? 

Yet, the idea entices me. 

I've been playing a lot lately with more realistic interpretations of the Brazilian igapo habitats which I'm so obsessed with, and am wondering if, by nuancing the executions of the physical environments we provide even "common" fishes, that there will be some "unlocks."

Looking at old friends in a new light is kind of exciting!

The other day I had a discussion with our friend, Tai Strietman, who's doing his post graduate ichthyology work in Brazil, and spends enormous amounts of time in the tinted, silty, igapo and Pantanal habitats we obsess over. We were discussing my latest tank and the fishes we're thinking of housing there, and he almost instinctively brought up one of our mutual favorites..the good old Neon Tetra, Paracheirodon innesi- a fish that has graced aquarium worldwide for almost a century. "About as common as box of Kleenex", as one of my fish geek friends likes to say.

Yet, really- when was the last time you really saw this fish displayed in an aquarium that represents its natural habitat in a most accurate way? I mean, not that often. It seems that usually in those splashy biotope aquarium contests, everyone wants to feature the rare characin, Angelfish, or dwarf cichlid. Meanwhile, the fish that everyone knows- the blackwater fish that is found generally in clear white water, high-concept planted tanks which have absolutely no resemblance to the natural habitat it typically comes from- just screams to be included!

It's great to have friends in cool places, isn't it?

The simple conversation drove home what I've believed for so many years: That a "common" fish in an "uncommon" context is...well, uncommon!

Tai summed up this idea most eloquently when he stated, "It’s important to look at things from different angles and revisit things because then we rediscover why we fell in love with them in the first place..."

And that pretty much says it all, doesn't it?

Looks like I'm quarantining some Neons for my new tank.

Can't wait to have these fish again- and to see them in a whole new light.

Until next time...

Stay inspired. Stay curious. Stay loyal. Stay bold. Stay dedicated...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

It's a seasonal thing...

Seasons come and go.

Water levels in aquatic environments ebb and flow. Planet Earth goes through weather cycles. The angles of the sun change. Temperatures rise and fall. Fishes face constant challenges, and have evolved over eons to meet them through evolution, adaptation, and behaviors.

Change happens constantly in Nature.

I talk and write incessantly about the seasonal inundations in Amazonia and elsewhere in the tropical areas of the world, and how they affect the water chemistry, food sources, and fish populations...but this stuff keeps going through my head! I wonder how we as aquarists can apply this information to our practices. There is something simply incredible to me about habitats being completely transformed by the coming and going of water.

And the seasonality in these wild aquatic habitats is perhaps the one feature that we as aquarists have yet to fully embrace and study. It's fascinating, intriguing...and dramatic, in many cases!

Amazonian seasonality, for example, is marked by river-level fluctuation, also known as "seasonal pulses." The average annual river-level fluctuations in the Amazon Basin can range from approximately 12'-45' /4–15m!!!  Scientists know this, because River-water-level data has been collected in some parts of the Brazilian Amazon for more than a century! The larger Amazonian rivers fall into to what is known as a “flood pulse”, and are actually due to relatively predictable tidal surge.

And of course, when the water levels rise, the fish populations are affected in many ways. Rivers overflow into surrounding forests and plains, turning the formerly terrestrial landscape into an aquatic habitat once again.

What can we learn from these seasonal inundations?

Well, for one thing, we can observe the diets of our fishes.

In general, fish, detritus and insects form the most important food resources supporting the fish communities in both wet and dry seasons, but the proportions of invertebrates fruits, and fish are reduced during the low water season. Individual fish species exhibit diet changes between high water and low water seasons in these areas...an interesting adaptation and possible application for hobbyists?

Well, think about the results from one study of gut-content analysis form some herbivorous Amazonian fishes in both the wet and dry seasons: The consumption of fruits in Mylossoma and Colossoma species was significantly less during the low water periods, and  their diet was changed, with these materials substituted by plant parts and invertebrates, which were more abundant.

Fruit-eating is significantly reduced during the low water period when the fruit sources in the forests are not readily accessible to the fish. During these periods of time, fruit eating fishes ("frugivores") consume more seeds than fruits, and supplement their diets with foods like as leaves, detritus, and plankton. Interestingly, even the known "gazers", like Leporinus,  were found to consume a greater proportion of materials like seeds during the low water season.

Mud and algal growth on plants, rocks, submerged trees, etc. is quite abundant in these waters at various times of the year. Mud and detritus are transported via the overflowing rivers into flooded areas, and contribute to the forest leaf litter and other botanical materials, coming nutrient sources which contribute to the growth of this epiphytic algae. 

During the lower water periods, this "organic layer" helps compensate for the shortage of other food sources. When the water is at a high period and the forests are inundated, many terrestrial insects fall into the water and are consumed by fishes. In general, insects- both terrestrial and aquatic, support a large community of fishes.

So, it goes without saying that the importance of insects and fruits- which are essentially derived from the flooded forests, are reduced during the dry season when fishes are confined to open water and feed on different materials. 

So I wonder...is part of the key to successfully conditioning and breeding some of the fishes found in these habitats altering their diets to mimic the seasonal importance/scarcity of various food items? In other words, feeding more insects at one time of the year, and perhaps allowing fishes to graze on detritus and biocover at other times?

Is the concept of creating a "food producing" aquarium, complete with detritus, natural mud, and an abundance of decomposing botanical materials, a key to creating a more true realistic feeding dynamic, as well as an "aesthetically functional" aquarium?

I'm fairly certain that this idea will make me even less popular with some in the so-called "nature aquarium" crowd, which, in my opinion, has sort of appropriated the descriptor while really embracing only one aspect of nature (i.e.; plants)...Hey, I love the look of many of those tanks as much as anyone...but let's face it, a truly "natural" aquarium needs to embrace stuff like detritus, mud, decomposing botanical materials, varying water tint and clarity, etc.

The aesthetics might not be everyone's cup of tea, but the possibilities for creating more self-sustaining, ecologically sound microcosms are numerous, and the potential benefits for fishes are many. 

It goes back to some of the stuff we've talked about before, like "pre-stocking" or at least attempting to foster the growth of aquatic insects and crustaceans, encouraging the complete decomposition of leaves and botanical materials, allowing biocover ("aufwuchs") to accumulate on rocks, substrate, and wood within the aquarium, utilization of a refugium, etc.

All of these things are worth investigating when we look at them from a "functionality" perspective, and make the "mental shift"  to visualize why a real aquatic habitat looks like this, and how its elegance and natural beauty can be every bit as attractive as the super pristine, highly-controlled, artificially laid out "plant-centric" 'scapes that dominate the minds of most aquarists when they hear the words "natural" and "aquarium" together! Particularly when the "function" provides benefits for our animals that we wouldn't appreciate , or even see- otherwise.

Merge art and Nature in a slightly different way- and the results are often amazing.

Learning more about the seasonal dynamics of natural aquatic habitats and the ecology of the surrounding terrestrial environments is just one fascinating and compelling area of study that we as aquarists can really get into. Yes, it requires some study. It requires trying some new and seemingly wacky ideas (encouraging the accumulation of detritus and epiphytic algal growth, for one thing!), and embracing some very different aesthetics. You'll endure occasionally murky water, biofilm on wood, and "stuff in the water..."

You might even fail a few times.

And you might also create something truly special.

That's what happens when you push out into the frontiers of the hobby.

However, the potential for learning new things about our fishes, and perhaps being able to spawn them more reliably and productively, lessening our reliance on the collection of some wild specimens, could be significant. The possibilities of learning about the challenges these fragile habitats face from man's impacts are there, too- as are the insights gained by seeing first hand how fishes have adapted to the seasonal changes, and have made them part of their life cycle.

It's an oft-repeated challenge I toss out to you- the adventurers, innovators, and bold practitioners of the aquarium hobby: follow Nature's lead whenever possible, and see where it takes you. Leave no leaf unturned, no piece of wood unstudied...push out the boundaries and blur the lines between Nature and aquarium.

Follow the seasons.

Stay curious. Stay interested. Stay adventurous. Stay enthusiastic. Stay bold...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Husbandry, process, observation- and consistency. Botanical-style aquariums in the long term...

We've talked so much about the idea of establishing a botanical-style aquarium (blackwater, brackish, or otherwise), from both a conceptual and procedural standpoint, that it's probably no longer a romantic and mysterious thing like it was only a few years ago. To many of us, it's become part of our aquarium hobby repertoire- a knowledge and "skill set" that we incorporate into our broader hobby experience.

Yet, I've probably not talked as much about the long-term maintenance and husbandry of these types of systems, and that's a huge part of this game, right?

Yeah!

We receive a lot of questions about what sort of ongoing maintenance procedures are necessary, and what sort of challenges you face, longer-term, with these tanks...We could probably write many blog posts about this interesting topic (and we will!), but an initial "quick hit" today will hopefully jump-start the discussion! (oh, and maybe answer some questions along the way!)

As we've talked about before, for the longest time, there seemed to have been a perception among the mainstream hobby that blackwater aquariums were delicate, tricky-to-maintain systems, fraught with potential disaster; a soft-water, acidic environment which could slip precipitously into some sort of environmental "free fall" without warning.

And there was the matter of that "dark brown water..."

Not only was the tinted water considered "the whole distinction" between these types of systems and more "conventional" aquariums, it was cause for fear, misunderstanding, and "myths."

Happily, this perception seems to be eroding, as a new generation of aquarists (hey, that's YOU guys!) has taken the torch and ran with it, taking a slightly different approach- and a vastly different attitude- and is perfecting the techniques required to maintain blackwater/botanical-style aquariums for the long term.

And the "long term" is where my interest lies.

The longest I've personally maintained such a system has been about 5.5 years, and the only reason I broke down that aquarium was because of a home remodel that required the removal of everything from the space in which the aquarium was located. I set it up again shortly after the work was completed. The reality, though, is that I could have kept this system going indefinitely. 

As most of you who work with these aquariums know, the key to long-term success with them is to go slowly, deploying massive amounts of patience, common-sense husbandry, monitoring of environmental parameters, and careful stocking management. Not really much different from what you'd need to do to successfully maintain ANY type of aquarium for the long haul.

Yeah, real "news flash" there, right?

So, it all starts with the way these tanks "run in", and that will sort of "set the tone" for the care and long-term maintenance involved.

First off, one of the things that we all experience with these types of systems is an initial burst of  tannins, which likely will provide a significant amount of visible "tint" to the water. If you're not using activated carbon or some other filtration media, this tint will be more pronounced and likely last longer than if you're actively removing it with these materials! And, if you use too much carbon, you'll be one of those people who emails me with a starting line like, "...and I added an entire package of catappa leaves and my water is barely tinted..."

You might also experience a bit of initial cloudiness or turbidity...this could either be physical dust or other materials released from the tissues botanicals, or even a burst of bacteria/microorganisms. Not really sure, but it usually passes quickly with minimal, if any intervention on your part. Oh, and not everyone experiences this...often this is a phenomenon which seems to happen in brand new tanks...so it might not even be directly attributable to the presence of the botanicals (well, at least not 100%). Could be the sand, or other dust/dirt from the other hardscape materials or the tank itself.

Oh, and the reality is that in a tank with lots of botanical materials, the water may not always be "crystal clear." I mean, sure it'll be clear- as in, you can see across it- but it might have a sort of "soupy" look to it. This is for the very reasons stated above. Mental shifts required...

So, that being said...what happens next?

Well, typically, as most of you who've played with this stuff know, the botanicals will begin to soften and break down over a period of several weeks. Botanical materials are the very definition of the word "ephemeral." Nothing lasts forever, and botanicals are no exception! Pretty much everything we utilize- from Guava leaves to Melostoma roots- starts to soften and break down over time. Most of these materials should be viewed as "consumables"- meaning that you'll need to replace them over time.

As we've discussed ad nauseum, you have the option to leave 'em in as they break down, or remove them (whatever your aesthetic sensibilities tell you to do!). Many "Tinters" have been leaving their botanicals in until completely decomposed, utilizing them as almost some sort of botanical "mulch", particularly in planted aquariums, and have reported excellent results. As we work more and more on substrates, I think we will see more and more hobbyists leaving the materials in to fully decompose.

Oh, and sure, botanicals  will go through that "biofilm phase" before ultimately breaking down, and you'll have many opportunities to remove them...Or, in the case of most hobbyists these days- add new materials as the old ones break down...completely analogous to natural "leaf drop!"

Now, this idea of "leaving stuff in" always seems to get people "riled up!"

I have never had any negative side effects that we could attribute to leaving botanicals to completely break down in an otherwise healthy, well-managed aquarium.

Many, many users (present company included) see no detectable increases in nitrate or phosphate as a result of this practice. Of course, this has prompted me to postulate that perhaps they form a sort of natural "biological filtration media" and actually foster some dentritifcation, etc. I have no scientific evidence to back up this theory, of course (like most of my theories, lol), other than my results, but I think there might be a grain of truth here!

Oh, speaking of "grains"- one of the "bummers" of botanical aquarium keeping is that you will likely have to clean/replace prefilters, sponges, micron socks, and filter pads more frequently. Just like in nature, as the botanicals (leaves, in particular) begin to break down, you'll see some of the material suspended in the water column from time to time, and the "bits and pieces" which get pulled into your filter will definitely slow down the flow over time. The best solution, IMHO, is to simply change prefilters frequently and clean pumps/powerheads/glassware regularly as part of your weekly maintenance regimen.

And of course...this is the elegant segue into the part about your "weekly maintenance regimen", right?

Well, here's my thought on this: Do "whatever floats your boat", as they say. If you're a bi-weekly-type of tank maintenance person, do that. If you're a once-a-month kind of person...Well, you might want to re-examine that! LOL. Botanical-style blackwater tanks, although remarkably stable once up and running, really aren't true "set-and-forget" systems, IMHO.

You'll want to at least take a weekly or bi-weekly assessment on their performance and overall condition. Now, far be it from me to tell YOU- the experienced aquarist-how to run your tanks. However, I'm just sort of giving you a broad-based recommendation based upon my experiences and those of many others over the years with these types of systems. You need to decide what works best for you- and your animals, of course...

Now, remember, you're dealing with a tank filled with decomposing botanical materials. Good overall husbandry is necessary to keep your tank stable and healthy- and that includes the dreaded (by many, that is) regular water exchanges. As we pointed out, at the very least, you'll likely be cleaning and/or replacing pre filter media as part of your routine, and that's typically a weekly-to bi-weekly thing.  

Just sort of "goes with the territory" here.

During water exchanges, I typically will siphon out any debris which have lodged where I don't want 'em (like on the leaves of that nice Amazon Sword Plant right up front, or whatever), but for the most part, I'm merely siphoning water from down low in the water column. I'm a sort of "leave 'em alone as they decompose" kind-of-guy.

And I'm not going to go into all the nuances of water preparation, etc. today. I use straight-up, non-remineralized RO/DI water and have for decades in my tanks, and that freaks lots of people out, too. You likely have your ways and they work for you. If you want to hear my "methods" some time, just DM me on Facebook or whatever and we can discuss. It's not really rocket science or anything, but everyone has their own techniques.

And of course, regular water testing is important, too. 

Not just for the information you'll gain about your aquarium and it's trends. It's important because we, as proponents of the natural, botanical-style aquarium movement need to log and share information about our systems, so we can develop a model for baseline performance characteristics and expectations about these systems, and perhaps sort of develop "standards" for techniques, practices, and expectations about these tanks.

With so many people worldwide starting to play seriously with blackwater, botanical-style tanks, we're seeing more and more common trends, issues, and ways to manage them...a necessary evolution, and one which we can all contribute to!

Share! 

So, your testing regimen should include things like pH, TDS, alkalinity, and if you're so inclined, nitrate and phosphate. Logging this information over time will give us all some good data upon which to develop our expectations and best practices for water quality management. And a "hot tip"- spend the extra money and get digital testing equipment when you can.

Yeah, I know that they're more expensive than test kits using liquid reagents- but with our tinted water, you won't find yourself struggling to interpret results. Oh, and they're usually quite a bit more accurate than liquid reagent test kits, too. No chemicals to degrade or run out of- just batteries, and you need to calibrate them periodically.

They're a  good long term investment for your hobby! 

Last, but absolutely not least- one of the most important parts of your "life with botanicals" is observing and enjoying your tank!

Understanding what's going on- expecting the biofilms, decomposition, etc. is only part of the process- that "mental shift" we talk about so much. The rest is observation of your animals and their reactions, behaviors, and overall health. How are they eating, coloring up, behaving? Have you noticed any changes- positive OR negative- since starting your blackwater adventure? Are they spawning? Have they stopped spawning? Have they started dying?

I mean, shit-it's that basic.

And THAT important.

In the end, living with your botanical-style backwater aquarium isn't just about a new aesthetic approach.This is where the "mainstream aquarium media" (LOL) gets it all wrong and really "short-sells" this stuff... It's about understanding and processing what's happening in the little aquatic ecosystem you've created. It's about asking questions, modifying technique, and, yeah, playing hunches- all skills that we as hobbyists have practiced for generations. When you distill it all- we're still just "keeping an aquarium"-but one that I feel is a far more natural, dynamic, and potentially game-changing style for the hobby.

One that we need no longer be afraid of.

And part of losing that fear is developing consistency, and understanding what to expect over the long term, as outlined above. And yes- one of the most important behavioral characteristics I think we can have in this hobby, besides patience, is consistency.

Like, doing the same thing on a regular, continuous basis. Duh. It's not exactly a revolutionary concept in the aquarium world, but it's a very "foundational" practice/principle, isn't it? I mean, if you're trying to create and maintain a consistent set of environmental conditions, it's pretty damn important!

Now, we receive a lot of emails from hobbyists who ask us how to keep their blackwater tanks consistent (in regards to the "visual tint"), but likely the environmental parameters, as well. Sure, this may seem almost ridiculously intuitive to most hobbyists, but it's such a common concern with hobbyists, that I can't help but consider that we might be overthinking it just a bit.

I mean, environmental consistency is not too difficult to achieve, even in an aquarium with lots of botanical materials. You just have to remember a few things.

As we have discussed for years here (in fact- RIGHT HERE in this blog, lol), botanicals are "ephemeral" in nature, and tend to break down and decompose over time after submersion. In order to maintain "consistency" and stability of the environment, we need to replenish/replace them.

The act of replacing the decomposing leaves and botanicals not only mimics the processes which happen in nature (new materials being deposited into the waters), but it serves to continuously "refresh" or perpetuate the conditions within the aquarium. A sort of "mandatory husbandry process" that just happens to be the best way to maintain ANY type of aquarium for the long term, IMHO!

Fortunately, these materials are now more easily available to hobbyists than in years past! (In fact, we know a place...)

Interestingly, in Nature, many leaf litter bed accumulations in Amazonian streams, for example, have been monitored for long periods of time (years), and they have become regular "features" of the stream in which they reside, influencing not only the physical structure of the stream, but the flow rates, dissolved oxygen levels and other chemical parameters; and of course, the fish population (in both composition and numbers) as well.

Much like in nature, the way you maintain your botanicals in your system can influence these things as well. This is why I feel that the botanical-style blackwater aquarium is very similar to a reef aquarium, or a heavily-planted aquarium. There is a continuous and dynamic "evolution" that occurs throughout the existence of these aquariums, and the direction it goes is absolutely influenced by the degree to which we as hobbyists are involved. A more 'holistic" approach is warranted.

So, to summarize this now monstrous blog, here is my "top 7 list"of long-term maintenance considerations for botanical-style aquariums:

1) Start slowly, gradually building up your quantities of botanical materials over a period of weeks or months, until you reach a level that you like aesthetically, and which provides the type of manageable environmental parameters you are comfortable with.

2) Employ basic, common-sense husbandry protocols, like weekly small water changes, careful feeding, use and replacement of chemical filtration media.

3) Stock your aquarium with fishes gradually, over a period of months, preferably with smaller fishes that can "grow with the aquarium" and produce less metabolic waste during the critical first few months as your system establishes itself.

4) Regularly monitor basic water parameters over the first couple of months to establish a "baseline" of how your aquarium functions and runs chemically. Continue this practice throughout the lifetime of the aquarium.

5) Regularly remove and/or replace decomposing botanicals (or NOT- depending upon your preference) with new ones, to help keep the same visual "tint" and consistent TDS/pH parameters.

6) Note any trends or deviations from the "baseline" over time and adjust as needed to stay within a fairly tight range.

7) Stay calm, move slowly, and make adjustments with finesse.

Well, that sums it up for now, I should think!

Stay diligent. Stay thoughtful. Stay engaged. Stay methodical. Stay consistent...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

"Low tech?" Or "high concept?" The "Walstad Method" rides again!

Being a lover of aquarium technique, culture, and trends, it's hard to imagine me NOT trying almost every technique that's out there to keep aquariums. Over a lifetime in the hobby and industry, I'll admit that I have played with a lot of ideas over the years. And without sounding really f---ing old, I've been around long enough to see things that were "tends" become "movements", and ultimately "approaches" or "techniques." And, even more interestingly, I've seen stuff go through those phases, then fall out of favor, only to be resurrected to go through the "cycle" once again!

Today's piece is a tale of advancements, embraces, rejection, and redemption... and education. Okay, maybe not that prosaic, but it encapsulates a lot of the way our hobby "works."

One of the classics that has sort of went this route is a planted aquarium approach called "The Walstad Method." Many of you have already heard of it, so I'll give about the most rudimentary summation of the concept, and you can rely on your fave search engine or whatever to "fill in the blanks" if you need a refresher.

Essentially, the approach was formulated by aquarist/author, Diane Walstad, and is quite impactful, if we dig down on it. Curiously, I met her once at a weekend show we were both speaking at in New England, when I was a reef-keeping "superstar" and, at the time, was far more interested in how to grow out sexy coral frags than I was to play with something as unsexy as a "natural planted aquarium."  (yeah, I admit, I was in the typical "arrogant reef keeping mindset" for like 15 years or so at that point...Freshwater was just "brown, grey, and outdated" to me at the time, even though I'd kept freshwater my whole life. Little did I know, huh?)

The idea is to provide a closed ecosystem where the plants and fishes work together to provide for each other's needs. Unlike a traditional planted aquarium, this approach utilizes a substrate comprised of rich soil, capped with sand, to keep the plants growing rapidly, and outcompeting nuisance algae, while providing nutrient export and nitrogen cycling via their lush growth.

I immediately found this to be fascinating. As a reef person, you become really attuned to "taking care of the ecosystem" of your aquarium in order for everything else to thrive. Well, either you learn to look at your reef as a little "microcosm"and care for the bacteria and other "lower" life  forms in the tank as an important component, or you simply suck as a reefer- and your tank will, too.

I'm been serious...As many of you know, reef tanks are absolutely dependent upon you understanding this concept. Nature will "hand you your ass on a platter" in the form of nuisance algae, dead corals, and sick fishes if you can't figure it out. Period. Full stop.

"Okay, just chill, Fellman...Go to your stinky mangrove thicket..."

SO-yeah, to make a long story short-  the idea of a sort of "harmonious" tank wasn't all that alien a concept to me...Niether was the attending "chatter" by hobbyists who are/were embracing the approach as a way to limit or avoid water changes as part of their maintenance. Seems like no matter how good a technique is for our aquariums, a certain segment of hobbyists will always find the 'lowest common denominator" ( ie; "reduced maintenance") and seize upon that as the biggest takeaway of the approach.

And, inevitably, when it turns out that said technique is NOT intended  to be a way to "reduce or eliminate water exchanges", doesn't support their "narrative of laziness", and results in the inevitable "issues" (algae, etc...) that arise when one takes shortcuts and fails to learn, it starts to fall a bit more "out of favor", and the more vocal corners (typically, lazy-ass hobbyists) shout, "Nothing to see here...move on..." and sort of serve to push it out of "relevance."

Her book, "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" is an absolute treasure trove that every hobbyist should own and read. And study...and execute on once an understanding is gained on this stuff.  It's not a "look book" filled with pictures of contest-winning, non-sustainable fantasy scapes and fanboy-fueled marketing hyperbole and blindly reverent, "haiku-like" platitudes about Nature. Rather, it's a concise, thorough, and incredibly valuable reference on how the functions of natural aquatic systems work equally well in our aquariums- if we facilitate their processes, rather than edit and "sterilize" them. It's a book- and an approach- for thinkers.

Sound familiar?

So, yeah- there are lot of people for whom an approach like this (hey- Nature!) is simply not going to ever work, because they don't quite understand- or make the efforts to understand- the dynamics of nutrient cycling and interactions between plants and aquatic fauna. Typically, eschewing the "homework" and learning a bit more of the detail behind a technique like this leads to unhappy outcomes for some, who castigate it and deride it as "overhyped" or whatever. We love to simply "duplicate" something blindly without that effort to fully understand how it works...urghh.

Yeah. This is a familiar "aquarium culture" thing.

It needs to be exorcized from our collective hobby mindsets, IMHO. Well, that's what we've been trying to do here for a while- as have many of you.

Nonetheless, when I heard her talk about this idea, it was like I'd never put "2 and 2 together"  before with freshwater, and I was hooked. Something in my primal hobbyist brain clicked, and I immediately knew that, if I ever ventured back into freshwater aquarium plants, this was the way I'd go. Of, course, at that time, I was well into my blackwater aquarium obsession, and the ideas of replicating the form and function of blackwater habitats was already swirling in my head- and in my tanks of the era.

And she was most gracious and accommodating of what must have seemed like shockingly ignorant questions from me, "coral boy...."

And one thing I truly respect about Diane ( I don't know her personally-just met her once and have read a lot about her ideas and her approach- that's serious IMPACT!), is that she seems to have no desire to "dumb it down" to make this stuff more "palatable" to those who don't want to make the effort to go deeper and learn more. I love that. I found her to be affable, knowledgable, humble, and utterly fascinating- to the point where I flew home after the show and set up a freshwater tank the next weekend! 

Okay, great side story and personal admiration aside, the idea of a rich soil substrate that not only accommodates the needs of the plants, but provides a "media" in which beneficial bacteria can grow and multiply is a huge "plus" for our closed aquatic ecosystems. And the concepts of embracing Nature and her processes work really well with the stuff we are playing with.

The things I like best about this method are that you need to really wait a couple of months or so before adding fishes, until the nitrogen cycle stabilizes, and the fact that the technique relies far more on Nature than it does on CO2 systems, additives, and all sorts of other gear (that's my other "diss" on most reef keepers, but I"ll keep my mouth shut for now...). So, yeah- it espouses/requires patience, the learning and embracing of natural processes and "rules", and eschews "gear reliance" in favor of "brain reliance"- how could I NOT love this?

And that "ethos" sounds oddly familiar to our work with botanical-style natural aquariums (blackwater, brackish, and otherwise)- doesn't it? I'll even forgive the awful and insulting moniker of "low tech" that the planted world ascribes to this approach...I mean, is Nature "low tech?" Have you ever read a scholarly article about the nitrogen cycle? Absorb THAT and try to use the term "low tech" to describe this stuff. Talk to the guys at NASA who have spent decades studying natural nutrient processing to figure out how to build systems for waste management on future spaceships, and get back to me with that thought...

Yeah.

"Low Tech", my ass.

More like, "Nature Tech." 

(Damn, I'm fiesty today! Good coffee!)

So, how does this relate to our world?

Well, for one thing, you see me literally pounding the hell out of you every week (if not daily) about how it's important to create rich, botanical-influenced substrates and ecosystems, for the purpose of facilitating microorganism growth, supplementary food, and the fostering of biofilms and fungi for their possible benefits at enhancing the nutrient-processing capabilities of your little microcosm. 

The main difference is that aquatic plants, to many of us, are a "secondary" thing. However, fostering a little ecosystem is not. That being said, with more and more hobbyists creating blackwater planted aquariums, it's increasingly obvious that a) these systems are entirely compatible with plant growth, and b) the idea of "enriched substrates" via soil and/or botanical "supplementation" works well even for systems which don't focus on aquatic plants.

As you've seen over the past few weeks, I've been focusing a lot on my long-running "Urban Igapo" idea and experiments, sharing with you my adventures with rich soils, decomposing leaf litter, tinted water, immersion-tolerant terrestrial plants, and silty, muddy, rich substrates. This is, I think, an analogous or derivative  concept to the "Walstad Method", as it embraces a more holistic approach to fostering an ecosystem; a "functionally aesthetic" aquarium, rather than a pure aesthetic one.

The importance of incorporating rich soils and silted substrates is, I think, an entirely new (and potentially dynamic) direction for blackwater/botanical-style tanks, because it not only embraces the substrate not just as a place to throw seed pods, wood, rocks, and plants- but as the literal foundation of a stable, diverse ecosystem, which facilitates the growth of beneficial organisms which become an important and integral part of the aquarium. And that has inspired me to spend a lot of time over the past couple of years developing more "biotope-specific" substrates to compliment the type of aquariums we play with.

When we couple this use of non-conventional (for now, anyways...) substrate materials with the idea of "seeding" our aquariums with beneficial organisms (like small crustaceans, worms, etc.) to serve not only as nutrient processing "assistants", but to create a supplementary food source for our fishes, it becomes cool. As creatures like copepods and worms "work" the substrate and aerate and mix it, they serve to stabilize the aquarium and support the overall environment.

Nutrient cycling.

That's a huge takeaway here. I'm sure that's perhaps the biggest point of it all. And, the ability of decomposition to provide nutrition for plants- or in our case- for the overall system. You know, instead of pricy "mystery additives", "shortcut-creating" products, CO2 systems, etc.

There is so much work to do in this area...it's really just beginning in our little niche. And, how funny is it that what seems to be an approach that peaked and fell into a bit of disfavor or perhaps (unintended) "reclassification"- is actually being "resurrected" in some areas of the planted aquarium world ( it never "died" in others...). And a variation/application of it is gradually starting to work it's way into the natural, botanical-style aquarium approach that we favor.

Good times. Much learning and experimenting ahead.

Let's get after it. Do the work. Execute the experiments. Make the mistakes. Learn the process. Apply patience. Rinse and repeat.

Stay educated. Stay focused. Stay diligent. Stay open-minded...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

"Editing" from below...

With our interpretations of blackwater and other tropical aquatic habitats careening headlong towards a greater degree of aesthetic realism and function, it's only fitting that we'd "attack" the endeavor from multiple angles. 

One of those angles is, of course, the substrate.

And we've talked about the idea not only of creating more "functionally aesthetic" substrates, but the idea of incorporating botanicals into them, as well. One of our favorite "edits" is to include a significant amount of leaf litter into the substrate, as you'd find in the sedimented, leaf-litter-rich, and silt-laden substrates of wild tropical environments.

How would you replicate the form and function in the aquarium? We accomplish this with either the small, yet durable Texas Live Oak leaf litter, or with our "Mixed Leaf Media" product, which is essentially a graded mix of crushed catappa, guava, jackfruit, and bamboo leaves. When steeped or boiled, the stuff goes right to the bottom, and is easily mixed into the substrate material that you're using in your system.

The result, when well mixed in, is a composition which looks and functions much like a real tropical stream or flooded forest floor substrate. The idea that not only will you create an interesting appearing substrate, you'll end upon with one which can impart tannins and humid substances, while serving as a biological support for the production of biofilms and fungal growth.

Now, if you incorporate fishes which feed off of the bottom (perhaps Loricarids and Corydoras catfishes, among others), and fishes which sift or dig, you'll end up with a remarkable foraging area! And, for growing live aquatic plants, you will also be creating a sort of "aquatic mulch" as the material breaks down. The long term implications of such mixes are quite exciting and interesting.

We've executed a similar substrate in our office brackish-water mangrove biotope aquarium. With a fair amount of decomposing Yellow Mangrove leaves (in addition to the ones which naturally fall and are allowed to break down), the result has been a sort of "graded" sediment bed which has resulted in very good growth of the mangroves!

Now, sure, I've heard discussions about "anaerobic conditions" and "anoxic zones" and all sorts of doom-and-gloom predictions about hydrogen sulfide and deadly chemical cocktails being exuded from such substrates, but in decades of playing with rich sand beds in reef aquariums, and similar concepts in freshwater systems, I have never experienced such doomsday scenarios. 

Now, sure, Nature is not the same as a closed aquarium, yet the "rules" which govern the biological function of an aquarium are the same ones which govern natural habitats, so it is worth exploring the function and characteristics of these habitats. There is a reason why they are abundant, widespread, and productive features in natural aquatic ecology...

Of course, any time you are carrying a high organic load in an aquarium, it's important to pay due consideration to the possibility that something could go wrong, and to the potential for running a system which is producing large amounts of nitrate and/or phosphate. However, my personal experience in richly-composed, deeply sedimented aquariums has caused little consternation, particularly when diligent maintenance (ie, regular water exchanges, good stocking levels and feeding habitats, and continuous, yet normal monitoring) and husbandry practices are employed. 

So, yeah- be careful when experimenting, yet also pay due consideration to the fact that there are many ways you can successfully run an aquariums. It all depends upon following some of the age-old husbandry practices, being patient, careful, and employing a healthy dose of common sense! Yet, approach things with a sense that there is some huge upside to trying a new approach to substrates, and to marring our work with them to the other concepts we play with in the botanical-style aquarium world.

This is about the most cursory discussion I can leave you with on this topic on a Monday morning. However, I think that the concept and execution deserves much more study and practice. In our case, the term "race to the bottom" takes man new meaning! It's time to explore and interpret the once-"forbidden" areas of the natural world for replication in our aquariums. There will be stunning success, dramatic, wrenching failures...and as a result of the work, potential breakthroughs that will propel the hobby forward in ways not previously considered.

Who's down for that?

Stay brave. Stay excited. Stay curious. Stay diligent. Stay undaunted. Stay patient...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics