The Tint

Beyond coincidence?

One of the great things about the tropical fish hobby is that you just never know what it will be that will deliver the result you've strived for, particularly when it comes to fish breeding. Sure, some things are virtually guaranteed, such as guppies having babies when you keep males and females together! 

However, most spawning events and breeding activities are the result of a lot of diligent hard work and extraordinary patience on the part of you, the hobbyist.

Yet, there are some positives which happen when we least expect them, perhaps when we're ready to throw up our hands in failure...

Have you ever had this happen?:

You're working with a fish that you really wanted to breed, and you tried seemingly every way possible to induce it to do so, with no apparent success...

You've tried environmental manipulation, water changes, switching up pairs, playing with the day/night cycle, switching out foods, etc., etc., etc.

Like, every damn thing you can think of.

Then, one day, sometime after you've thrown up your arms in defeat...you look into the tank they reside in, and...you have fry!

Ever had that happen?

It's one of the great mysteries of aquarium keeping...And it's not a bad thing of course. The main "bummer" is that you often don't know what- if anything-that you did was the "catalyst" for the spawning event! It's like you're just scratching your head...

 

Like, was it the accidental introduction of 25 un-prepared Alder cones into your filter...you know, not "pre-boiled" like usual- which perhaps introduced just enough extra tannins or humic substances to trigger that spawning response?  

 

Maybe just a coincidence?

Or maybe it was the fact that you got so busy last Wednesday that you missed your normal weekly water exchange day and performed it on Saturday instead? Or was it that extra bunch of freshly-prepared Guava leaves that you added to the tank last week when you removed a few older ones?

You just don't know, right?

Sometimes, it's a culmination of many things we've been doing continuously- for extended periods of time...and the moment is just "right." Other times, it could be the time you STOP doing the thing you've been doing for months and months. Perhaps the sudden break in routine- the slight variation in water chemistry or something tangential is the "trigger."

Yeah, but why NOW?

I mean, you've been working very diligently on conditioning them with food and optimum conditions for weeks...So it could have just been "time", right? I think it just goes to show you that animals often defy our human-rationalized "processes" and do whatever they damn well please! I mean, you can do what "the books" say to get a fish to spawn, but unless the fish are up to it, you're just dreaming...

So, where does this leave us, the aquarists who dream of breeding "that" fish? The one that's haunted us for years...?

It leaves us doing exactly what we've done for decades- giving our fish the best food and environment possible, and hoping against hope that our husbandry decisions result in a spawn. And if they don't, we just have to either "stand down" on trying new stuff, or just keep on going.

Duh.

Yet, I think the reality for many fishes is that simply providing them the correct environmental conditions (i.e.; similar to those in which they have evolved) and offering them foods that are representative of their natural diet should ultimately yield spawning activity "whenever." I mean, think about it- those are things that should not be done on a "special" basis; rather, they are practices that most of us do- or should do- on a year 'round, continuous basis.

We go to so much effort to keep our fishes healthy and happy, so this is simply the result of what I call "cumulative competence"- or, as one of my fish-keeping buddies so eloquently states, "Doing shit the right way..."

We should continue to study the natural habitats of the fishes we are trying to breed. Yet, not just stop with "soft, acidic water" or whatever...No, we need to look further. What type of substrate exists in the habitats where the fish are found? What plants. Are there lots of decomposing leaves? Is the photoperiod longer or shorter? Is there a lot of tangled roots or wood? What physical and environmental parameters exist in the natural habitats during the time of year that the subject fish spawns that we should consider replicating in our aquariums?

And I think that we need to consider the idea of keeping our fishes in conditions which mimic, to some extent, the environmental conditions of their natural habitat on a continuous basis. Now, this is not some new, earth-shattering idea. However, I am always amused that many hobbyists with breeding aspirations only offer the fishes more "realistic" conditions (ie; similar to those found I their wild habitats) when they want to breed the fish.

I don't get it.

I am of the opinion that the "default" whenever possible, should be to continuously maintain our fishes in conditions which approximate- physically, structurally, and chemically, the conditions under which they have evolved to thrive under in Nature.

And, there appears to be e growing body of evidence that this practice is a pretty good way to go. I used to think it was just a "coincidence" that we'd see some cool stuff happening with fishes that were otherwise hesitant to thrive and ultimately spawn; however, it seems like there is a lot more going on now that leads me to think that.

As more and more hobbyists enter the blackwater/botanical-style aquarium "genre", we've seen and heard more and more of these reports of "spontaneous" or "anomalous" spawning events. We've heard of or rapid color and behavior improvements, or feeding habits in fishes that, under previous "aquarium standard" conditions were nice, but not amazing. The slight improvements (or, perhaps better referred to as "environmental tweaks") rendered by utilizing botanicals in aquariums with fishes that come from blackwater conditions are starting to yield consistent, tangible results that are far beyond mere coincidence.

The very utilization of botanicals to create consistent blackwater-style conditions in our tanks is something very special. Not a "cure -all" or some "hack" for doing everything right- but an incremental improvement to our "best practices."

However, it's still too early to know exactly what might be causing some of these events. I mean, what the specific triggers are. Is it chemical, physiological (the presence of humic substances, lower pH, etc.), or simply a result of the physical surroundings of the aquarium more closely representing those in which our fishes evolved over eons? You know, just having leaves on a soft, silted bottom like back home, instead of  the usual "#3 aquarium gravel" or whatever...

And the continuous refinement of the technique of blackwater, botanical-style aquariums is There is no right or wrong answer here..The reality is, what makes the tropical fish hobby so enjoyable is that eternal quest for knowledge- the pursuit of a goal...

Brought about by you, the hobbyist, practicing the art of..."continuous competence..."

Frustrating though it may be at times, I don't think I know a single hobbyist who would take up some other pursuit in its place, do you?

Didn't think so.

Your success is the result of a lot of hard work, intuition, and occasionally, risk. Your success is beyond a mere coincidence.

Really.

Stay focused. Stay passionate. Stay diligent. Stay curious. Stay creative. Stay persistent...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Beating the $#@^ out of an old friend...

Okay, admit it...the title got you.

It's not what you think...Well, maybe.

As a fish geek, I spend a lot of time just...musing about stuff. Thinking about ideas and techniques that can help create a better and more enjoyable hobby experience. And often, I think about things like husbandry of our botanical-style, blackwater aquariums. 

Having been in this hobby literally since I could walk, I've been fortunate to see a lot of incredible developments, both from a technique and technology perspective. I think a lot about some of the equipment that I used over the years while growing up in the hobby...Particularly filters. I have no idea what I'm fascinated with filtration...except for the fact that I like to see as little of a filter in my tank as possible, if at all.  I've tried a ton of filters over the years...There sure have been some interesting ones...some which came and went; others which have stuck with us...

You know, those old hang-on-the-back air-driven outside filters, sponge filters, and the most venerable of 'em all- the under gravel filter! I never really quite understood this one, to be quite honest with you. Yet, it makes me think about some positive takeaways...

The under gravel filter.

Once considered stay-of-the-art, almost "essential" gear for any hobbyist, this one has fallen by the wayside for many reasons. And I think it "suffered" from it's own "efficiency" at doing what it did best- pulling stuff into the substrate. 

Huh?

Okay, let's do the most cursory intro to the UGF and how it works.

The "filter" is essentially a plastic plate that goes under the "gravel" (hence the name), and is designed to pull water down through the substrate that sits on top of it via use of air stones or (back in the day) a powerhead...Oh, wait- did I say "the gravel?" Yeah...well... Okay. You need materials which is coarse enough to function as a sort of "screen" for particulate, otherwise this stuff could slow down the flow considerably, creating all sorts of issues, ranging from just being plain old dirty" to acting as a "nitrate sink."

However, it’s part of a cycle of sorts, right?

I mean, it's pulling dirt and organic material into the substrate. Is that a good thing, or? Well, if you get "dead spots" under the plate (Who the #$%^ knows if that was a "thing" or not. There is likely some physics behind that! Sounds scary, regardless), which could lead to anoxic areas and perhaps buildup of hydrogen sulfide or other nasty stuff which is  "no bueno"  for aquariums, right?

And you have to clean the substrate so that it doesn't "clog" with detritus, supposedly... And if you overdo it, you essentially wipe out billions of beneficial bacteria that you're actually trying to foster...so...

Anyways, the principle here is that the substrate acts as a biological filtration "base." Now, this actually seems problematic from the get-go, right? I mean, you're using a coarse substrate to trap shit (literally) in it, where bacteria break it down. And of course, this necessitated the use of some form of supplemental filter, like a canister or outside power filter...

And that always made me wonder why you'd even f--k with a UGF in the first place if the whole idea was A)For the substrate to act like a biological filter and B) The fact that you need a supplemental mechanical filter to remove the particulate waste that the UGF would accumulate through its ability to pull stuff into the substrate.  

Like, just have a substrate layer and an airstone in your tank and call it a day, right?

I mean, sand beds have their own unique ability to foster denitrification and other biological processes, and do you even need a filter plate to accomplish this? Okay, read up on "plenums" form the early 21st century in reef keeping for more on that, but...I mean, just facilitating a healthy sand bed or substrate layer- meaning, one that isn't absolutely loaded with fish poop an uneaten food- is half the battle, right?

Notice I didn't even bring up our friend, "detritus" at all? Because, as you know, I have warm feelings about the stuff. And of course, there is something all very weird about the idea of using a mechanical device to further pull waste material into the substrate.

Now, in a botanical-style aquarium, with a layer of leaves and botanicals, many of which are decomposing from the minute you add them to the tank, what advantage would having a mechanical device physically yanking this stuff deeper into the substrate accomplish?

I mean, I'm a huge fan of using substrates to create not only an aesthetic component to our aquariums, but to function as a biological "filter" of its own. I mean, the substrate is alive. It's actually the largest organism (or more correctly, aggregation of organisms; ie; bacteria) in any given aquarium, when you think about it, right?

Okay, I"m really all over the place with this stuff today...For some reason, I felt compelled to do a bad analysis of the UGF, while simultaneously recalling its nostalgic charms and then beating the living shit out of the idea! All the while, demonstrating my appalling lack of scientific understanding of the whole concept, right?

Yeah, this blog is really productive! 😆

Yet...I have a fascination with the biggest part of the idea of the UGF: It essentially "runs" by facilitating the growth and reproduction of beneficial bacteria. 

I have a tougher time reconciling the whole idea that your "gravel" becomes a mechanical filter. It seems sort of unnecessary, because it more or less functions like that anyways, right? I mean, without a plastic air-driven filter plate and lots of maintenance concerns. 

Isn't this like the whole "balanced aquarium" stuff that's been bandied about the hobby for generations?

I love things that work with Nature and her natural processes. I love the fact that we play with leaves that break down, fueling bacterial growth, which also serve to facilitate denitrification in our tanks. And the fact that the decomposing botanicals and such are essentially "food" for many of the organisms which reside in our tanks.

Indeed, they facilitate the creation of a sort of "food web", don't they?

I think so.  

So, there’s this “thing” I have about substrates in general, because they form one of the most interesting and useful components of the closed aquarium ecosystem. And it’s a bit ironic- or perhaps, just coincidental- that the undergravel filter, which holds some strange fascination for me, utilizes the substrate as it’s “media...” 

I mean, I suppose there's more to it than that; it's worthy of more attention...Not necessarily the idea of bringing back the under gravel filter, mind you- but the idea of substrate as a biological filtration component.

There is so much more to discuss here.. so much more to think about.

So, time for me to stop beating up this old friend, the UGF, and think about the substrate itself some more..

Until next time...

Reflect on the past  while thinking about the future.. 

Stay curious. Stay thoughtful. Stay diligent. Stay creative...

And stay wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

It's the one thing....

The aquarium hobby is pretty weird, when you look at it from an outsider's perspective...I mean, be honest- it really sort of is. That's not at all a bad thing...just a fact! We're into some pretty obscure stuff. We have become "experts" on some real minutiae about fishes...and that's pretty cool, if you look at it objectively!

We talk a lot about some pretty arcane subjects in this very blog- and in this hobby, don’t we? Part of this is because most aquarists are as complex as their aquariums…endlessly diverse, and generally quite interesting (okay, there are likely a few fish geeks who are just..dull. Hey, I’d be full-on lying if I said otherwise, right?). There are many different paths to success with aquariums, of course; however, I think that there us actually ONE key thing that your aquarium needs to be successful.

Yeah, you heard me. ONE KEY THING! 

That’s a rather strongly assertive claim, coming from me, “Mr.-Don’t-Take-Anyone’s-Advice-Too-Seriously” himself, huh?

Okay, I’ll own it. I really do think I know the ONE thing that every aquarium needs to be successful.

Not fancy low-iron glass tanks, electronic controllers, state-of-the-art filters, Mars Rover-style plumbing scheme, multi-chip LED lighting systems. All nice things to have, of course...However, you need NONE of that to be successful.

The one thing that an aquarium needs to be successful is stability.

Stability.

Yeah, that's what every aquarium needs to be successful.

Think about it for just a second, as you contemplate beating the shit out of me for a very gross over-generalization- something I’ve admonished everyone in the hobby never to do. Yeah, stay with me for a sec, okay?

The majority of the wild aquatic habitats we love to emulate are among Nature’s most stable environments. Sure, some are subject to seasonal fluctuations, impacts of weather, and more recently, mankind's influence and such, but for the most part, "in any given season", the conditions remain rather predictable.

However, as I just mentioned, they’re constantly under siege from external forces, aren’t they? We read about the impact of global warming, pollution, deforestation, increasing acidity in the oceans, pollution, over-fishing, etc. What do all of those factors affect? Stability. Why are these factors so impactful and potentially dangerous?

Because they threaten the stability of these fragile ecosystems.

Sure, we can make some rather blanket statements based on our 100-some years of experience with the aquarium-keeping hobby that most fishes are really adaptable, hardy animals, coping with the rigors of collection, transport, acclimation, imposed propagation, etc., and still apparently thriving. True, many fishes are more resilient than you’d initially believe, coming as they do from such seldom-changing environments.

However, just because your wild Geophagus, Discus, characin, or Betta manages to hang on for a while in sub-par environmental conditions during transport, at the wholesaler  and ultimately to you, does that mean it’s “adaptable?" Well, maybe. However, I think it might be more accurate to state that it simply tenacious- clinging to life in environmental conditions that are otherwise less-than acceptable to it?

I think so, in any case.

Does this mean it’s okay to provide an environment that is less than very stable?

I don’t believe so.

Now, I know what you’re probably thinking: “Here’s Fellman, spouting off about stability on one hand, and then telling us not to obsess over chasing numbers with our water chemistry…And he’s pushing botanicals as a means to attempt the replication of highly specialized aquatic habitats with no real point of reference. What gives here?”

(Okay, maybe you weren’t thinking of all THAT, but I’ll bet you were thinking about why I am such a big fan of stability, right?)

Fair question. Perhaps I can create a sort of analogy that makes sense (maybe- you know my analogies can go south quickly)…

Let’s say, for example, that you’re in captivity (just the SOUND of that sucks, huh?), plucked off the street by a human collector. You’re kept in a comfortably furnished apartment, with some plants, pizza, a nice couch, fast wifi, and all the Instagram and Netflix you can handle. That’s sort of your new life. You’re confined to these four walls, day in and day out.

Almost as soon as you arrive, the careful conditions that were arranged for you will start to deteriorate. The air gets a bit stale, some crumbs and such are accumulating on the floor (I don’t care how careful you are- you’ll leave crumbs when you eat pizza…), the bathrooms start getting a bit dirty, light bulbs start losing brightness; you’re sick of watching reruns of “Pacific Rim” and "Game of Thrones” on TV (I mean, I would be.)…

Within a few weeks, the apartment is a serious college dorm-room-style mess. It needs a good cleaning. Oh, and you can’t leave. Ever. Fortunately, the housekeeper arrives. The bathrooms are cleaned., floors vacuumed, furniture refreshed, and linens changed. You can breathe again. Fast forward two weeks. Same situation. The place is a mess and you’re getting bit crazed from the clutter. Oh, and did I forget to mention, you can’t ever leave? Oh, the housekeeper is on vacation. Can't come on Thursday...it's gonna be another two weeks or so.

The housekeeper comes, eventually. Your apartment is clean again...for now.

And so on. Sure, it seems okay from a “comfort provided” standpoint, but the reality is that you’re constantly forced to stay in the same place, and it keeps changing- swinging back and forth between extremely dirty, and otherwise tolerable. And, did I mention, you can never leave?

Yeah, I did.

What does all of this mean to you, the resident?

You’re constantly having to adapt and deal with stress. Stress from a myriad of factors, ranging from the same food, sounds, four walls, to a dirty-then-clean-then-dirty environment. This seems innocuous at first, but the constant adaptation to changing conditions in a closed environment is quite stressful.

Fishes, hailing from some of the most stable environments on the planet, are simply not evolved to handle the stresses cause by constant environmental fluctuations without incurring some health issues as a result. When you factor in temperature swings, increasing/decreasing alkalinity and pH, trace element levels, etc., it’s a recipe for stress, plain and simple.

And, I believe that stress is a problem for fishes- particularly, stress brought about by constant environmental fluctuations.

Sure, it seems painfully obvious that we need to keep environmental parameters stable for our fishes. I don't think anyone makes it a point to create wild environmental swings in your aquariums. However, "shit happens" and we sometimes have to postpone water exchanges, routine maintenance, etc. And, like I discussed above, fishes are reasonably rugged, tolerating periodic environmental variations. But wild parameter swings? Not good. 

Now look, I’m not telling you to lock in on set numbers at the exclusion of everything else. I’m not telling you that a 2 degree day/night temperature change is going to be the demise of your tank. What I am suggesting here is that you look into the overall environmental stability that you are providing your animals. This includes things like feeding, use of additives, changing fertilizers, etc. When you mix up environmental parameters, or are sporadic in husbandry, in my opinion, you’re forcing fishes to adapt to constant changes that they are likely not evolved to do.

Rather than obsessing on, for example, a phosphate level of exactly 0.5 ppm, you can lock in on a range within the target parameter of say, 0.5- 2 ppm or whatever, and avoid rapid, wild deviations on either end. I know from experience in reef keeping that raising or lowering parameters like magnesium, for example, by more than say, some very small percentage likely creates potentially stressful conditions for your corals. Now, fishes aren't quite as touchy as corals, but the idea here us the same. Constantly forcing your animals to adopt to changing environmental parameters- regardless of reason- is problematic.

Stability in a range is also about consistency.

Consistency in husbandry practices, frequency of water exchanges, filter media replacements, brand of salt mixes (in a reef tank), feeding, photoperiod, etc. is the name of the game, IMHO. We often hear about the hobbyist who never seems to follow the age-old practice of regular water changes, changing filter pads, etc., yet has had an amazing tank, or tanks for years. We’re quick to point out that he/she is just being “lucky”, and that the error of his/her ways will catch up at some point. And it never seems to, have you noticed that? Oh, I suspect that at some point, lax maintenance practices will catch up with you, but I also think that the fact that the environment in the subject tank is consistent (on whatever side of the range that it’s in), a variable is eliminated (environmental fluctuation).

And THAT may be the reason for the apparent "success" of an otherwise “contrarian” aquarium system. Although parameters may not be optimal for long term growth and health of the fishes, with increasing nitrate and other organics likely not being fully metabolized and utilized by the life forms within the system, they are not constantly shifting, either, -just building. Meaning that the “lesser of two evils” in this case may just be fluctuation, rather than parameters that don’t “meet the gold standard” of generally agreed-upon aquarium keeping practice.

Strange, but it makes sense in my mind!

And, I suppose that one can even make a somewhat convincing argument that even regular water changes are a stress-infusing event for fishes or aquatic plants, forcing them to endure “resets” or changing parameters as a result of the change!

Bizarre, huh? And where does this leave us as aquarists? What’s the best course of action? I mean, I've quoted the words of a child before- "Fishes don't break that easily." 

True.

Within reason, of course.

The occasional wild change may be stressful, but most fishes can "pull through." However, constantly having to adapt to wildly fluctuating environmental parameters is just pure stress for aquatic animals.

That's why I always encourage newcomers to our world to move very slowly when adding botanical materials to an established aquarium. Even casually manipulating many environmental parameters in an aquarium can create potentially stressful situations for fishes. This problem is exacerbated by “casually” adding a “little bit of this and a little bit of that just because”, as has been customary in a lot of reef aquariums in recent years. In the reef world, you'll see hobbyists lose their minds searching for the perfect tank, adding a little of this or more of that in some quest for something...

The short and sweet guide to adding "stuff" to tanks? If you’re going to add some chemical addictive to your aquarium, or attempt to remove something, make sure that testing dictates that it’s necessary. In today’s high-tech information-enabled aquarium world, there is no need to guess about stuff like this. The data is there for the taking. Make changes based on your system’s actual needs, not supposition!

Now, with our botanical-style,blackwater aquariums, we ARE sort of contradicting what I'm saying, just a bit, I think.  

We toss in all of these botanicals without knowing exactly how a given additional influx can influence basic water parameters...It's as much of an art as it is a science...So I selfishly and shamelesslly give us a "pass" for now...but only during this "experimental phase", okay? We'll eventually have to get a bit more methodical, IMHO.  Maybe eventually we'll have more reliable testing for specific tannins and humic substances, etc. imparted by various botanicals.

Eventually, one can hope!

The limiting factor in our world is being able to ascertain the influence of everything we add. We are not able to test, or example, tannins (well, there ARE kits to test for them, but they express as ppm or some other measure that really doesn't much reference point for us as fish geeks...and there are hundreds of types of tannins, so...yeah). We talk about adding "x" number of leaves in a given sized tank...well, some of us do. (I fear doing that, lol.)

Perhaps, however, testing for contractions of some of these things in wild habitats will ultimately provide a very rough "baseline" reference?

As far as aquarium testing- We're limited to pH, alkalinity, TDS, conductivity (redox), and the usual suspects (nitrate, phosphate, etc.). We need to focus on a few basic parameters, like pH, alkalinity, and TDS when managing these tanks, IMHO. Nitrate and phosphate are also useful. We can still keep things "stable within a range" in this type of system- and we should. And we can know, for example, when "enough is enough" for our tanks. We can ascertain when we are pushing it too hard, too fast...and we can still moderate our big moves with discipline and the embracing of this philosophy of seeking stability.

Reducing variables and creating stability is a great overall aquarium husbandry practice, because it plays right into the evolved need of aquatic life forms favoring a consistent set of environmental parameters.

I therefore submit that environmental stability within a range is the single most important thing that your aquarium needs in order to be successful is consistency. So it’s not just about using the same source water, plant fertilizers, botanicals, salt mix, etc…It’s also about doing the same things repetitively- things that reduce environmental variables and inconsistencies that can negatively impact your fishes, plants, and corals.

Developing-and maintaining-good, regular habits.

We should spend at least as much time plotting out how to keep our aquariums stable as we do deciding which LED lighting system to purchase. Indeed, factors such as how to provide stability should INFLUENCE our purchase decisions!

So, in summary- whatever methodology and course of care you choose to provide your aquariums-  be sure to do it with purpose, thoughtfulness, and consistency. What are a few things you can do as a hobbyist to promote consistency in your system? Here are five that come to mind right away; I’m sure you’ll have more:

*Acquire the largest aquarium that you can comfortably manage. Larger water capacity provides greater stability and environmental consistency. Besides, what a rad excuse to purchase a larger tank, right? 😆

*Use the same products (ie; salt mixes, essential additives, etc.) regularly- if you use such products to begin with. Alternatively, use the same source water for all water exchanges...

*Engage in the same husbandry protocols regularly (ie; water changes/no water changes 😂, media replacement, feeding, etc.)

*Target ranges for water chemistry parameters that are easily achievable and maintainable, with any adjustments made solely as dictated by testing.

*Observe your system carefully and often to assure that conditions are not deteriorating. Establish routines for a variety of aquarium-related tasks.

In the end, aquarium-keeping is really all about creating a controlled environment for animals that are utterly dependent on us- and managing a hobby that is enjoyable and not burdensome. Keeping live animals in captivity IS a responsibility, but it need not become a chore.

In the end, it is supposed to be about fun, right?

It's about observation, interpretation, nuance, and finesse...And repetition, too! Doing the same things that work on a consistent basis. However, don't go crazy in this pursuit of consistency...Just relax into it and think about the impacts of everything you do with your aquariums...

Encourage stability.

Until next time, keep things consistent, but be sure to keep the “fun level” up…

Keep learning. Keep sharing. Keep growing.

Stay diligent. Stay observant. Stay thoughtful. Stay flexible...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

The strange phenomenon of "cyclical" occurrences..."Quirks", processes, and mental shifts...

The world of botanical-style aquariums is a very dynamic one, isn't it? It's a world of constant change; continuous biological processes, and aesthetic variations on a weekly basis. As lovers of botanical-style natural aquariums (blackwater, brackish...whatever...) we have learned to be most tolerant of stuff that would likely drive many hobbyists who subscribe to more "mainstream" approaches absolutely freakin' crazy, right?

Yeah, I think so.

We have an enormous tolerance for tinted water, decomposition, biofilms, and other stuff that is really rather contrary to what we've been brought up in the aquarium world to be considered "okay" or "acceptable..."

And our botanical-powered aquariums have their own unusual, if not endearing- attributes, don't they?

Let me explain. You've likely noticed this phenomenon over the years in many different types of aquariums.

Ever noticed that aquariums seem to go in "cycles", and display certain "quirks" in their function?

For example, some tanks will enjoy periods of time where the fish and plants are actively growing, the water is crystal clear, unwanted algal growth is minimal, and everything seems to be "spot on."

And then, seemingly inexplicably, after months or perhaps years, the tank may not look "quite as good" for several weeks, only to rebound to its former glory with minimal to no intervention on your part in a matter of a day or two...

Strange.

I think we've all experienced this in planted tanks before- and likely in other systems, too. Odd "cycles" that create changes that you just can't quite put a finger on before they "correct" themselves... 

We have found that some of these cyclical occurrences in planted tanks, for example, might be due to nutrient variations, trace element depletions, growth of plants or algae, etc.

Over the years, I've experienced certain "quirks" with blackwater/brackish botanical-stye aquariums. This is particularly noticeable to those of us who, like me, love keeping our systems set up over very long terms without disturbing them or breaking them down.

As I wrap up the journey of our office brackish water aquarium, I can look back on the aquarium's operation, and perhaps give us some interesting perspective based on our experiences with it over the time it has been in operation.

In particular, once of the things I've noticed in general in botanical-style aquariums, field with leaves, botanicals, sediments, and wood, is that the water will take on a bit of "cloudiness" from time to time, almost as if it's been "dosed" with some sort of materials which make it a bit turbid- even with excellent husbandry techniques.

I noticed this in the  brackish-water system a lot, particularly in its earlier phases.

I think there are a few explanations, one of which is the fact that there is a gradual, yet cumulative decomposition of organic materials from within the botanicals themselves. Maybe it's substances within the wood or botanicals you're playing with. Stuff like lignin, etc., which seeps into the water column as the materials break down, exposing new layers of their tissues to the aquatic environment.

Some of it could simply be fishes disturbing layers of substrate or even decomposing materials. It could even be some bacterial blooms- again, brought about by the aforementioned botanicals.

Yeah, it sounds kind of bad...

Is it? Does it affect our fishes? More often than not, it has no real impact on their health, in my experience.

It arrives...and reaches a sort of "peak..."

And then- it usually just goes away just as mysteriously as it comes...

And of course, as a lifelong aquarium hobbyist, when you see stuff like "cloudiness", you first start looking at overall water quality, stocking, feeding habits, and husbandry technique. I am a fanatic water quality guy, being a reefer,  and I'm a devoted tester and water exchange fanatic.

Is it possible that my feeding or technique could have caused this? Maybe, but not likely. I'm stupidly careful...Like, dispensing each piece of frozen food with a toothpick careful. My tanks are environmentally stable, have little to no detectable nitrate, barely detectable phosphate, and receive regular water exchanges.

And, as a rule, I stock my aquariums lightly.

Okay, so right there, I apparently eliminated the "usual suspects", huh?

However, arrogance aside- it IS possible, right?

The idea of a "bacterial bloom" is certainly possible. Sure.

However, is this bad?

Not always, IMHO. 

Perhaps the specific materials we use have a direct impact on the appearance of this "cloudiness."

Now, interestingly, I utilize mangrove wood in both my home blackwater and brackish water aquariums a lot, and I'm of the belief that this is a beautiful type of wood, but it's very "dirty" from a standpoint of materials contained within the tissues of the wood. Both types of systems experienced an initial "haziness", which I hadn't seen to the same extent with other botanical systems I've played with which utilized different types of wood.

Coincidence? Perhaps.

I mean, every botanical tank seems to acquire a certain "patina" (one of my blackwater-enthusiast friends calls it "flavor"), which impacts the overall appearance of the system. And we do throw all sorts of seed pods, leaves and other stuff into our tanks- a perfect "cocktail" for unusual water conditions, huh?

And, let's face it- some materials are simply more "dirty" than others. Now, "dirty" doesn't necessarily mean "dangerous" or "bad"- it simply means that it will impart a unique set of characteristics to the aquatic environment and that you need to monitor your aquarium carefully.

Nothing really new or unexpected there, right?

Nope.

And ultimately, the "cloudiness thing" just sort of goes away, yielding that sparkling brown clarity that we love. Sure, some activated carbon and stuff like Poly Filter help, but I think the biggest  factor is...time. Just being patient.

This is not entirely inconsistent with the characteristics we see in Nature. Wild habitats, such as flooded forests, frequent have a level of turbidity in the water that is quite apparent, yet seemingly of little impact to the fishes which reside there. Now, I realize that aquariums are not open, natural systems; however, they are impacted by most of the same processes, aren't they?

The other random factor in our version of the botanical-style brackish aquarium is the use of very rich, mud-influenced soils in the composition of the substrate we play with. I think some of the material leaches into the water column on occasion. Add this to the equation, and with the occasional burrowing activities of the snails we employ, and with the significant water movement provided by electronic pumps, and this is another factor which can affect water clarity.

Of course, it's kind of a no-brainer that silty, richly-sedimented substrates will impart a certain degreee of cloudiness to the water until these materials settle out over time. We've seen this in many of our freshwater "igapo" experiments, so there is nothing unique to brackish in this regard.

And perhaps it's also the inclusion of the mangroves themselves, and the epiphytic organisms which live on and among their roots and propagule structures?

The other quirk we all experience from time to time is the accumulation and dissipation of biofilms and occasional biocover on our botanicals.  This is simply considered "par for the course" with botanicals, isn't it? Yet, I know many hobbyists (myself included) who have run tanks with minimal biofilm over their botanicals at almost every phase of the tanks existence.  

Why is this? 

Who the hell knows, right?

Yeah.

There are SO many possible variables in what we do that it's almost impossible to generalize! We can only tell you that it happens, and that it is essentially harmless and often subsides somewhat over time.

"Gee, that was pretty damn helpful, Scott."

Hey, man- I don't have all the answers. I simply don't know how we can look at all of the variables that impact the way these tanks function and arrive at some sort of general conclusion about why.

Suffice it to say, we may simply have to treat every tank as a unique microcosm, to which some generalized processes will occur. However, each system simply behaves differently from others, making it near impossible- or at the least- irresponsible- for us to generalize about what causes it, how long it lasts, and what impacts it has on the aquarium's environmental parameters.

Some hobbyists have experienced "bursts"of biofilm which accompanies the addition of every batch of botanicals to an aquarium. In our community, we take the "waxing and waning" of biofilms in our tanks as a sort of "right of passage", and have come to expect and tolerate the stuff- particularly in a newer aquarium, with less mature nutrient export processes.

Learning to accept this was, and still is- a big part of the "mental shift" hobbyists have to make when transitioning to this type of aquarium from a more "conventional" one.

Accepting that decomposition, change, and the transformations of hardscape materials by fungal and bacterial action are simply "part of the game" is pretty fundamental. Again, we advocate not continuously intervening in these natural processes, which allows the aquarium to find its own biological balance (for want of a better word). It seems obvious to all who play with these systems that, as your tank matures and becomes more biodiverse, it most definitely "evolves" to some extent...

Despite the rather unusual aesthetic.

Oh, but that biofilm and turf algae and fungal growth really gets to some people!

Left alone, it almost always seems to dissipate in just a few weeks. And occasionally, you'll see a covering of biofilm or turf algae crop up on botanicals which have been submerged for some period of time, seemingly without reason. 

These occasional "outbursts" by the biofilms may disappear as quickly and mysteriously as they appear, without any apparent correlation. Or do they? Well, there must be SOME explanation! 

And of course, as we know, everything occurs in Nature (and our tanks) for a reason...And the searching for answers and trying to figure out the "hows and whys" of our unique aquariums has been a real delight for me.

Nature- and our tanks...are ruled by cycles. Seasonal? Biological? All types. Something we haven't thought a lot about in aquarium keeping (except for the nitrogen cycle, of course).  We are playing with "wet" and "dry" season simulations. I'm convinced that these will yield some interesting insights on the function of closed aquatic systems and how they react to changes of all sorts.

Cycles and quirks.

Yeah, "quirks!"

The undeniable "quirkiness" of a blackwater/brackish, botanical-style system is one of the most enjoyable facets of this type of approach. It's a constant evolution and a tremendous thing to witness firsthand.

Yes, they're filled with quirks.

However, botanical-style aquariums are filled with a certain something..A "mystery", a "vibe",  a "romance", if you will. A unique operational "structure", which separates them from what we have come to expect as "normal" for aquariums over the decades...

And that "something" is what keeps many of us coming back for more- "quirks", "cycles" and all!

Stay diligent. Stay excited. Stay devoted. Stay experimental. Stay patient. Stay observant...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin nAquatics 

 

The evolved brackish tank....The end of a journey- the beginning of a voyage.

As we discussed yesterday, there is that strange dichotomy of my love for the long-term and the need to share new stuff with the world. And that involves changing up some stuff; moving on to newer things. 

Aquariums, like everything we do here, are a combination of personal passion and the desire to share new ideas. And that involves letting go. It's time to wrap up our brackish-water mangrove aquarium (V 1.0) to move on to something that we hope will be equally as exciting and inspiring for our community.

Now, the brackish tank is cranking- itcould have gone on indefinitely. Indeed, it will, in that the mangroves will be used in a different display and the fishes relocated to a new tank as well. This aquarium- over 2 years in the making- served its purpose and fulfilled its mission beyond even what we had initially expected!

The idea, of course, was to demonstrate how we could bring some new life and a slightly more realistic approach to the rather staid, traditional brackish water aquarium as the hobby knows it. Of course, our "slightly more realistic approach" is actually somewhat of a radical departure from the usual brackish water tanks which have dominated this obscure niche for decades.

As a decades-long reef aquarist and blackwater, botanical-style aquarist, how could I resist a "fusion" of the two? Besides, it was another example of the world being the way it really is, and how we as hobbyists chose to interpret it in our aquairums. And I personally felt/feel that we've been sort of choosing the safe, "established", generally unrealistic, and altogether boring path in brackish for decades! 

So I had this idea to portray the brackish environment as it really is...not some sanitized, aquarium aesthetic version. And of course, as you know, if an idea is a bit out of the norm, we're all over it. It was time to "evolve" brackish aquariums.

And when an idea like an evolved brackish system pops into our heads, it's time to give it a whirl, as they say.

And it starts with a few important pieces of hardware; some stable environmental parameters, and patience...

Let's talk about the operating parameters of this tank for just a second.

We initially targeted a specific gravity of 1.004; however, for a variety of reasons, over the lifetime of the aquarium, we migrated it up to 1.010. I use Instant Ocean salt mix to achieve this. Water temperature is 77.5 F /25.2C. The pH of the water is 7.6, and the alkalinity (KH) is 7.  

An interesting set of readings...And we can talk more about this stuff in a future installment of "The Tint", as it's pretty interesting! 

Oh, by the way, my fave testing equipment for specific gravity is a digital refractometer...it eliminates any "interpretation" and guesswork when you're trying to determine the lower specific gravity levels that we play with! If you're going to play in this "slightly salty" world, a digital refractometer is a great investment!

We maintain the specific gravity consistent by use of a very simple automated top-off system, the "Smart ATO Micro", which consists of an optical sensor, which you place in your tank at the depth you want the water level to remain at. When the system detects that the water level has dropped, it activates a tiny but incredibly powerful DC pump, which you place in a reservoir or other container below the tank, filled with fresh water.

I had a custom acrylic reservoir made by my reefing pal/celeb, Marc Levenson, who's website, melevsreef.com is an ultimate source for the DIY reefer. And unlike some other (inexplicably) much-loved and well-known "DIY" hobby people, Marc is actually a really nice guy and will take the time to work with you!

Check his site out! 

The pump injects enough water to bring the water level back to the predetermined depth. ridiculously easy and incredibly accurate! I use this system in all of my open-top aquariums, which are subject to evaporation. It's an easy way to maintain consistent water parameters in brackish (and blackwater) aquariums, which require consistent parameters for optimal health of their inhabitants.

Best.Gadget.Ever.

There are several physical materials that are the basis for our concept of the "evolved" brackish-water aquarium:

-Mangrove branches

-Rich substrate

-Mangrove propagules

-Mangrove leaf litter

-Tinted Water

Let's start with the Mangrove wood/branches.

Mangrove is a surprisingly "dirty" wood; in other words, there is a lot of "stuff" in and on its surface tissues. Makes sense, as it grows in pretty "biologically active" habitats. It fosters a lot of biofilm and other growth when submerged, so you definitely want to take the time to soak it like any other driftwood before use, and to scrub the exterior surfaces of biocover from time to time during the preparation process.

We work with two types of wood: 

Mangrove branches- These are the actual branches of the mangrove tree, trimmed and stripped of any leaves. Interestingly, if you invert them, you're looking at what is essentially the same "configuration" as the aerial roots the tree sends out, and this is a remarkable, natural representation of the the root for our purposes! Thin, gnarly, and intricate, these pieces are super easy to work with in the aquarium, and will help you create the "backbone" of what we think is the most authentic-looking mangrove biotope aquarium possible! 

Some of them are truly large, which will create a dramatic effect in medium to large aquariums. Depending upon the size of your aquarium, the look you're trying to achieve, and the size of the branch(es) you purchase, you could use a few pieces, or just "one and done!" They are lightweight, and you might need to get clever in securing them into the substrate by weighting them with shells, buttressing them with sand/rock, or even using plant weights.

Mangrove root sections- Just what they sound like- these are thick, woody sections of the prop root of the mangrove tree, and they are cut into little "log-like" sections, varying in both size and thickness. However, they are much, much thicker and more "substantial" in general.   

Now, like any wood, there will be some leaching of tannins (although it's less pronounced with the branches than with the root sections, in our experience) and the growth of some biofilms. This is remarkably durable wood, and lasts a very long time. The branches are extraordinarily flexible, too! 

Far be it from us to tell you just how to use these pieces in your aquarium, but I'd really be remiss if I didn't give you just a bit of advice, right? 

First off, as mentioned above, I'd use the branches in an "inverted" orientation, with the multiple "branchlets" becoming the prop roots of our simulated mangrove habitat. I'd intermingle the branch(es) into a few of the thicker root sections, to give a sense of depth, scale, and structure. To any of these sections, I'd break out the super glue and secure various types of shells to the surfaces. On the submerged sections, you can secure the tiny shells of the Littorina sp. (Mangrove Periwinkle), which look really cool on the roots! 

On the top, above the "water line", I'd incorporate the halves of our small oyster shells, to simulate the habitat of the Mangrove Oyster, Crassostrea gasar. This will create a very unique look in your brackish-water aquarium. 

The interface of the water/roots/substrate is a fascinating ecological niche with tons of aesthetic and functional possibilities. It's dynamic, ever-changing, and offers the opportunity to create a really unique-looking aquarium! 

Substrate is a huge and perhaps overlooked component of the brackish water aquarium- and the wild habitats as well.

We've utilized a very rich mix of aquatic soils, similar to what has been used in "dirted" tanks by aquatic plant geeks, yet with a buffering component (finer, aragonite or calcareous substrates) and commercially-available marine biosediment materials.  We created a "workable" environment to grow mangroves with such a substrate.  And by managing the water quality with regular, frequent water changes, and careful, automated topoff to keep specific gravity constant at a brackish level (like-this is a fundamental thing), I believe that we have been able to simulate this environment on at least a superficially functional level.

Kind of like what we're doing with blackwater, leaf-litter-bed aquariums?

Um, yeah...totally.

Now, we have to learn a bit more about the impact of high-nutrient substrates, decomposing leaf litter and such in brackish systems, but it's a totally cool experiment, IMHO!

Mangrove habitats also function as fish "nurseries" and feeding zones, assist in preventing shoreline erosion because of their ability to trap sediments in the low-energy waters of brackish estuaries and breaks up wave action within their maze of prop roots. These prop root systems are just screaming at us as fish geeks to play with. I've waded, snorkeled and scuba dived in Mangrove systems many times, and am always blown away by the myriad of tempting aquarium possibilities that they inspire!

 

Numerous "sublittoral/littoral" organisms utilize the prop root zone of red mangroves as their primary habitat. The "prop root zone" provides sessile filter feeding organisms, like  such barnacles, muscles, tunicates, and bryozoans with a perfect environment in which to live and reproduce.  There are sponges in brackish ecosystems, but they are highly specialized feeders, often deriving sustenance from a very specific type of dissolved organic food source, so we're unlikely to be working with them. Oh, you also have the "seldom-kept-in-aquaria-intentionally" polychaete worms and "boring" crustaceans, like isopods.

Yeah...there is so much going on in this area...so much for us to play with as hobbyists, In fact, part of me is actually a bit guilty for unleashing the "Estuary" idea so early on (we were in operation around 2.5 years when we did) in Tannin's existence, as we're just now starting to really venture out and unlock some secrets in the blackwater/botanical game...But I think that the two can develop together and spur on new hobby advances.

In fact, I think that they already have...

And of course, there are the Mangrove propagules.

I've sprouted them in a bright windowsill, and then transplanted them to the aquarium when they start developing some nice roots and leaves. There are some tricks to this, which we'll touch on in a later piece!

One key concept when it comes to using mangroves in your aquarium: Sprout the propagules in the same water conditions (ie; freshwater, brackish, or marine) that you intend to keep them in for the duration. Notice that , in our office windowsill "geek garden" (that's what my friends call it!) we have sprouted them under pure fresh, brackish, and even "blackwater" conditions with excellent results! 

Yeah, it would a total shame NOT to incorporate some live Mangrove propagules into the "matrix" you've created! It's really a matter of securing them into the "artificial" root structure, and letting them throw down their live roots and create a "living" component to the aquascape. Keep in mind that it's a slow process, which can take many months to touch down and penetrate into the substrate. Like so many things in our natural-style aquarium approach- patience is key.

And of course, another  fundamental part of the mangrove ecosystem is leaf litter. The leaves which fall from the mangroves form a part of the food web, which encompasses many organisms, from bacteria to fungi, to mollusks and small crustaceans. By incorporating some dried mangrove leaves into your brackish-water aquarium, you can provide both a functional and aesthetic component which has seldom been embraced before in this hobby segment. 

Mangrove leaf litter, like its freshwater counterpart, is the literal "base" for developing our brackish-water aquarium "food chain", from which microbial, fungal, and crustacean growth will benefit. And of course, these leaves will impart some tannins into the water, just as any of our other leaves will!

Much like in our freshwater systems, the mangrove leaves break down over time, providing foraging and sustenance for a great number of organisms, ranging from fungi to our fishes!

And that thing about the tinted water...

Enter the age of the "tinted" brackish-water aquarium.

Yep, tinted. As in "brown."

As in- not your father's brackish-water aquarium. It's not about limestone rocks, quartz sand, and pieces of coral skeleton. Rather, we use combinations of fine sands, muds, leaf litter, and other materials to create a rich, dark, sediment-filled substrate. Possibly creating higher nutrient conditions than typically associated with brackish tanks, yet far closer in step with the rich estuary habitats we're interested in replicating.

Of course "muddy", "nutrient rich", and "tinted", especially in the context of a system with some salt in it, will immediately get you attention from the armchair aquatic warriors of the internet, who will come out of the woodwork to warn you that, "You're headed down a path to disaster!"

This sounds oddly familiar, huh?

Step back from the "doom and gloom" forecasts of naysayers for just a second, okay?

"Nutrient rich." "Tinted..."

Hmm...

This is not only familiar to many of us in the blackwater, botanical-style aquarium world...it's pretty much second nature to us by now, right?

Yeah, tinted, muddy, leaf-litter filled...

Functional.

And different.

And wide open for experimentation, innovation, and enjoyment. And the biggest obstacle is the act of forgetting our preconceptions about what this type of aquarium HAS been, as presented to us in the past, and looking at what it COULD be when we try this more realistic approach.

Obviously, we should look at tanks that have been created by other hobbyists for inspiration- and I'll keep putting out pics of my tanks to offer some. Yet, I also encourage you to spend a lot of time looking at nature for your inspiration- observe the nuances, the "dirt", if you will- and the potential for replicating it all in the aquarium.

And the fishes? Well, that will continue be a challenge until suppliers/breeders/collectors see a demand for them.

I mean, there are many fishes already in the hobby which can adapt to brackish conditions. There are also many which we seem to have labeled as "brackish fishes", when the reality is that many are found in all sorts of habitats, not just-or not even- brackish. Researching your fishes and their origin is important.

As hobbyists, we're helping to create the market for this stuff, even if we don't look at it from that perspective. The more hobbyists who play with brackish and raise awareness and demand for fishes, the more varieties that wholesalers will bring into the hobby. It's a process...There are a few available right now. Maybe more will come in soon. 

There is a lot to do in the world of the "evolved" brackish aquarium. And it's not just about the look. It's about learning how to care for, spawn, and rear fishes and other animals from this unique environment.Indeed, it's about learning how to recreate and manage the environment in the confines of an aquarium.

Looking for a new frontier to help explore? Brackish just might be the ticket. 

Our focus is on trying to replicate and understand the complex web of life that occurs in brackish water habitats, and we'll evolve the practice and appreciation of this unique niche just like we've all done with blackwater. In fact, the approach that we take to brackish is unlike what has previously been taken before, but one that is incredibly familiar to you as "tint enthusiasts."

It's about husbandry. Management. Observation. Diligence. Challenge. Occasional failure. Yes, you might kill some stuff, because you may not be used to managing a higher-nutrient brackish water system. You have a number of variables, ranging from the specific gravity to the bioload, to take into consideration. Your skills will be challenged, but the lessons learned in the blackwater, botanical-style aquariums that we're more familiar with will provide you a huge "experience base" that will assist you in navigating the "tinted" brackish water, botanical-style aquarium.

It's not "ground-breaking", in that it's never, ever before been done like this before. I just don't think that t's never been embraced like this before...met head-on for what it is- what it can be, instead of how we wanted to make it (bright white sand, crystal-clear water, and a few rocks and shells...). Rather, it's an evolution- a step forward out of the artificially-induced restraints of "this is how it's always been done"- another exploration into what the natural environment is REALLY like- and understanding, embracing and appreciating its aesthetics, functionality, and richness.  

There is still much to learn; much to dismiss as incorrect or unnecessary, and a lot of technique still to develop...

Isn't that fun?

It is.

So, it might be time to say a rather profound "goodbye" to this particular aquarium, but it's time to say, "hello!" to another stage of the journey that will never end.

Our community- you- are doing amazing work- evolving, iterating, and learning new things. Changing minds, and inspiring others. You'll continue to lead the way in breaking through the barriers and facing the challenges which arise when we push into new frontiers.

Stay excited. Stay inspired. Stay bold. Stay diligent. Stay committed...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

 

“In a most unconventional way...”

I have to admit, I am sort of an advocate for “weird” stuff.

I mean, I really love the idea of tinted, often turbid water, decomposing leaves, biofilms, and other sorts of “features” that would pretty much cause most serious aquarists to lose their minds rather quickly!

I’ve tried over the years to figure out where this obsession came from. I mean, my early aquarium days were most “conventional”: After graduating from tourquiose gravel, plastic plants, and ceramic ornaments, I started using more natural materials- wood, love plants, “Number three aquarium gravel”- stuff like that. 

In my teen years, in addition to girls, I discovered killifish... and thought that keeping them in permanent setups, consisting mainly of overgrown “jungles” of Rotala and other plants was more interesting to me than bare plastic shoeboxes and such that were the more “conventional/practical” approach to breeding and breeding them.  It worked for livebearers...no reason it couldn't work with killies, right?

Peat moss, particularly the long fiber kind, really interested me. It’s impact on the color of the water, the behavior of the fishes, and their overall health immediately piqued my interest! It made my tanks look very similar to the habitats I had seen these fishes come from in Nature... “NATURAL!”

And, as an avid reader, this was about the time I discovered blackwater aquariums. 

Something natural, unique, and beneficial for many fishes. An obvious attraction for an aquarium...and executed in a most unconventional way.

I haven't really looked back since.

Oh sure, I took a multi-decade “detour” through the world of reef aquariums and coral propagation. In reality, despite the hyper-clear water and insanely colored animals, it simply was a different form of expression- a different “palette” to create more natural aquariums. My reef tanks were modeled more after locales I'd seen while diving or surfing than a more contrived, "collector-centric" coral approach that was the prevailing "style" for years. It all made sense, though...again- something about the road less travelled..

I can look at an image of an aquatic habitat and try to recreate aspects of it in an aquarium. Not a stylized version, mind you. I can't do that well. Rather, an unfiltered interpretation of it.

A version for the aquarium.  Yeah, that's me!

Okay, enough of my weird hobby history...

Although I had to think back on this recently, because of some of the interviews I’ve done lately for our “Tint” podcast (you HAVE listened, right?), with guys like Cory Hopkins, George Farmer, and Tai Strietman. Hearing their  thoughts on some aspects of recreating natural habitats and just aquascaping in general made me reflect.

In particular, both George and Cory were talking about the "trend" in aquascaping towards “details” like smaller twigs, roots, pebbles, etc; and how this has impacted the aquascaping world in general...

Details...

This stirred up something in the back of my mind.

I found this particularly interesting because I’ve been a big fan of such “details” for many years, myself. Of course, not just from a purely aesthetic or artistic standpoint, but from the way they help create aquatic habitats that fishes interact with more naturally. They look cool and have an important role in the lives of the fishes...

That thing that I like to call “functional aesthetics...”

And things like roots and tangled branches  are a "detail" that we need to think more about.

Roots, specifically.

Yeah, there is something incredibly compelling about the way terrestrial trees and shrubs interact with the aquatic environment. Not only do they help "secure the soils" from falling away, they foster epiphytic algae, fungal growth, and biofilms, which supplement the foods of the resident fishes. And of course, they provide a physical habitat for fishes to forage, seek shelter, and reproduce among. In short, these roots create a unique "microhabitat" which harbor a diversity of life.

And they look pretty aesthetically cool, too!

So yeah- this makes them an irresistible subject for a natural-looking- and functioning- aquascape!. And relatively easy to execute, too!

With a variety of interesting natural materials readily available to the hobbyist, it's easier than ever to recreate these habitats in as detailed a version as you care to do. And, rather than a purely "artistic" interpretation like you see in many of the detailed "diorama" scapes that are so popular right now, I'm suggesting utilizing roots and twigs and such to create a more functionally realistic habitat for your fishes.

Facilitating these processes- allowing the materials to accumulate naturally and break down "in situ" is a key component of replicating and supporting these microhabitats in our aquariums. Fostering natural processes of accumulation and decomposition of natural materials by sequestering them is just one way you can utilize root simulations in your aquarium.

The typical aquarium hardscape- artistic and beautiful as it might be, generally replicates the most superficial aesthetic aspects of such habitats, and tends to overlook their function- and the reasons why such habitats form.

The function- the "why" if you will...can be just as interesting to contemplate, right?

Roots find their way into aquatic systems because..well- the aquatic system usually finds THEM! Areas of grasslands or varzea/igapo forest become flooded during seasonal inundations, and suddenly, the terrestrial habitat is transformed into a rich, productive- and unique-looking aquatic habitat, brimming with life.

Recreating functional and aesthetic aspects of this type of aquatic habitat is the very essence of what we at Tannin hope to help you accomplish.  The complexity and additional "microhabitats" they create are compelling and interesting. Applying what most aquascapers these days would call "details" to the overall aquascape; making them the focus- is an entirely different approach- especially when we think towards the functional aspects over everything else.

Even the most simple application of such an idea can yield a fundamentally different type of aquarium, with in appearance and function. Fishes will behave differently, foraging and sheltering among the roots or tangled branches. They will utilize these structures as a place to forage and perhaps even reproduce.

There are many, many creative nuances that we can apply to the recreation of these unique habitats of course. I've seen numerous hobbyists create some truly fascinating aquariums by utilizing tangles of fine branches and roots as the "main event." Not only is it an aesthetically fascinating habitat, it's truly a functional one, at that!

Of course, there is a lot of interesting stuff you can do, aquascaping-wise, by utilizing a complex of fine branches. Fishes like Angels, Discus, Uaru, and others which come from environments which favor their "vertically compressed" morphology will find a natural home in a tank set up in such a manner.

So, I could go on and on about this stuff; however, I think you're sensing a pattern here, right? It's important for us as aquarists to not only enjoy the creative process of thinking about and creating our natural aquariums- it's vital, IMHO, for us to contemplate how and why some of the structures found in Nature came into being.

Sure, stuff like this has been done before. You can no doubt show me many examples of aquaecapes does with root tangles, terrestrial/aquatic branch aggregations, and "details." Of course. However, I think that when we consider creating such a tank with these types of features in the context of our botanical world, it's a bit different.

It's essentially aquascaping, of course. Yet, done with a different thought. A different purpose. An aquarium, nonetheless, yet executed in...a most unconventional way.

Keep trying new stuff. Get out of your comfort zone. Push out the boundaries...look at your work from a different perspective. Draw as much inspiration from the work of  Nature as is possible. If this kind of stuff calls to you..compells you..moves you in some way- please enjoy this...and share it with the world.

Stay unique. Stay bold. Stay curious. Stay in spired. Stay educated. Stay creative...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

 

 

All in all, it's best NOT to kill your fishes...

That's quite probably my most literal title ever.  And it's something I sincerely believe in!

Killing your fishes really sucks. Particularly when it's avoidable.

And, now that I have your attention, let me explain a bit more.

Yeah, our little sector of the aquarium hobby is exploding...And with an explosion of interest comes a flurry of new people, new ideas, and some of the same old questions. And worse, occasionally, the same old bad habits!

Uh- oh!

Like many of you, I've made my share of errors in this hobby.

When I started playing with botanicals in my aquariums almost two decades ago, I made a fair number of mistakes. Sometimes, they cost the lives of my fishes. And killing fishes sucks.

 

Some mistakes were caused by my lack of familiarity with using various materials. Others were caused by not understanding fully the impact of adding botanical materials to a closed aquatic ecosystem. All were mitigated by taking the time to learn from them and honestly asses the good, the bad, and the practical aspects of using them in our aquariums. 

And sometimes, that meant developing "best practices" to help mitigate or eliminate issues as much as possible, even though the "practices" may not be the easiest, most convenient, or expedient way to proceed.

After more than four years of running Tannin, I have pretty much identified the two most common concerns for customers associated with utilizing botanicals in their aquariums. Curiously, our two biggest concerns revolve around our own human impatience and mindset- not the botanical materials themselves.

The first is... preparation.

We are often asked why we don't feel that you can, without exception, just give any of your botanicals "a quick rinse" and toss them into your aquarium.

After all, this is what happens in nature, right? Well, shit- yes...but remember, in most cases, there is a significant "dilution factor" caused by larger water volumes, currents, biologically-rich substrates, etc. that you encounter in natural aquatic systems. Even in smaller bodies of water, you have very "mature" nutrient export systems and biological equilibriums established over long periods of time which handle the influx and export of organic materials.  

However, even in Nature, things go awry, and you will occasionally see bodies of water "fouled" by large, sudden influxes of materials (often leaves, grass clippings, etc.)- sometimes after rain or other weather events- and the result is usually polluted water, large algal blooms, and a pretty nasty smell! 

In the aquarium,  of course, you have a closed system with a typically much smaller water volume, limited import of fresh water, limited filtration (export) capacity, and in many cases, a less robust ecological microcosm to handle a large influx of nutrients quickly.

So you know where I'm going with this:

Fresh botanical materials, even relatively "clean" ones, are often still "dirty", from collection, storage, etc. They may have dust, airborne pollutants, soil or silt (depending upon where they were collected), even cobwebs, bird droppings, and dead insects (yuck!).

Natural materials accumulate "stuff." They're not sterile; made in some clean room in a factory in Switzerland, right? 

So," just giving botanicals a quick rinse" before tossing them in your tank is simply not good procedure, IMHO- even for stuff you collect from your own backyard. At the very least, a prolonged (30 to 60 minute) steep in boiling hot water will serve to "sterilize" them to a certain extent. Follow it with a rinse to remove any lingering dirt or other materials trapped in the surfaces of your botanicals.

Now, I don't recommend this process because I want to be a pain in the ass. I recommend it because it's a responsible practice that, although seemingly "overkill" in some people's minds- increases the odds for a better outcome.

The guys up in the cockpit on your flight from L.A. to New York know every system of the Boeing 737 that they fly. But guess what? They still complete the pre-flight checklist each and every time they hop in the plane.

Because it can save lives.

Why should we be any different about taking the time to prepare botanicals? I know it sounds harsh; however, if you skip this step and kill your fishes- it's on you.

Period.

What would you skip this, other than simply being impatient?

Could you get away with NOT doing this? 

Sure. Absolutely. Many people likely do. 

But for how long? When will it catch up with you? Maybe never...I know I'll get at least one email or comment from a hobbyist who absolutely doesn't do any of this and has a beautiful healthy tank with no problems.

Okay, good for you. I'm still going to recommend that you embrace a preparation process.

Boiling/steeping also serves a secondary, yet equally important purpose: It helps soften and even break down the external tissues of the botanical, allowing it to leach out any remaining subsurface pollutants, sugars, or other undesirable organics to the greatest extent possible. And finally, it allows them to better absorb water, which makes them sink more easily when you place them in your aquarium. 

Yes, it's an extra step.

Yes, it takes time.

However, like all good things in nature and aquariums, taking the time to go the extra mile is never a bad thing. And really, I'm trying to see what possible "benefit" you'd derive by skipping this preparation process?

Oh, let me help you: NONE.

None.

There is simply no advantage to rushing stuff.

Like all things we do in our aquariums, the preparation of materials that we add to them is a process, and Nature sets the pace. The fact that we may recommend 30 minutes or more of boiling is not of concern to Nature. It may take an hour or more to fully saturate your Sterculia Pods before they sink.

So be it.

Relax.

Savor the process. Enjoy every aspect of the experience.  And don't you love the earthy scent that botanicals exude when you're preparing them.

Now, I will quickly address (for the "umpteenth time", as they say) that most commonly-asked question, which primarily pertains to leaves: "All of this boiling  and soaking- doesn't it release all of those tannins that you're wanting to embrace and have in your aquarium?"

Well, to put it very simply, the answer is, "No." 

Yes, direct, I know...but it's true! 

At the risk of over-simplifying things, remember that leaves and plant materials have structures which break down over time, and release whatever materials (residual sugars, other organics, and of course, tannins) remain bound up in them. The boiling may, indeed break down some outer layers, allowing some of these materials to release, and water to saturate tissues, but unless you're boiling these materials for hours and hours, there will be plenty of those tint-producing tannins still yet to be released.

So, at the very least, a good rinse and perhaps an overnight soak in water will serve to soften up the leaves, leach out some surface pollutants, and provide some confidence that you're being proactive.

So in summary- we recommend some form of preparation for every botanical item you add to your aquariums.

Trust me- it's another instance where the perceived "trade-off" isn't even close.

You'll have plenty of those nice, tint-producing  tannins to work with, and the security of knowing that you've taken some steps to keep pollution to a minimum during the process.

And of course, there is still one more question which arises out of the prep process:

"Can I use the "tea" that results when you boil or soak leaves and botanicals?"

My answer? You could, but I won't. Ever.

Why? Let me explain:

Many hobbyists want to make use of the water in which the initial preparation of our botanicals takes place in as a form of "blackwater tea" or "blackwater extract."

Now, while on the surface, there is nothing inherently "wrong" with the idea, I think that in our case, we need to consider exactly why we boil/soak our botanicals before using them in the aquarium to begin with. 

What do I do?

I discard the "tea" that results from the initial preparation of botanicals- and I recommend that you do, too. 

Here's why:

As I have mentioned many times before, the purpose of the initial "boil and soak" is to release some of the pollutants (dust, dirt, etc.) bound up in the outer tissues of the botanicals. It's also to "soften" the leaves/botanicals that you're using to help them absorb water and sink more easily. As a result, a lot of organic materials, in addition tannins and humic substances are released.

So, why the #$%@ would you want a concentrated "tea" consisting of of dirt, surface pollutants, and other organics in your aquarium as a DIY "blackwater extract?" And how much do you need? Like, what is the "concentration" of desirable materials in the "tea" relative to the water? How do you know HOW MUCH to add to your aquarium?

I mean, it's not an easy, quick, clean thing to figure, right?

There is so much we don't know. 

A lot of hobbyists tell me they are concerned about "wasting" the concentrated tannins from the prep water. Trust me, the leaves and botanicals will continue to release the tannins and humic substances (with much less pollutants!) throughout their "useful lifetimes" when submerged, so you need not worry about discarding the initial water that they were prepared in.

To me, it's a no-brainer: It's kind analogous to adding the "skimmate" (the nasty concentrated organics removed by your protein skimmer via foam fractionation in your marine aquarium) back into your aquarium because you don't want to "lose the tiny amount of valuable salt or some trace elements" that are removed via this process.

Would you add this concentrated shit into your reef tank?

Is it worth polluting your aquarium for this?

I certainly don't think so! 

Are botanicals THAT "dirty" to begin with? Likely not.  Is this being a bit conservative? You might say that. I think it's just being responsible. 

Do a lot of hobbyists add the "tea" and get away with this? Sure. In Nature, don't leaves, wood, and seed pods just fall into the water? Of course.

However, in most cases, Nature has the benefit of dissolution from thousands of gallons/litres of water, right? It's an open system, for the most part, with nutrient import and export processes far superior to and more efficient than anything we can hope to do in the confines of our aquariums! 

Okay, I think I beat that horse up pretty good!

I mean, could you experiment with this stuff? Sure. At your own risk. As a business, and as a hobbyists who wants to see the idea of botanical/blackwater aquariums grow in the hobby, it's my responsibility to recommend the most conservative practices that we hope will create good outcomes for the widest variety of people.

If you want to use the water from the "secondary soak", I'd feel a lot better about that..The bulk of the surface pollutants will have been released at that point. However, I still just don't like the idea. Better yet is the process of adding some (prepared) leaves/botanicals to the containers holding the makeup water that you use in your water exchanges. The materials will steep over time, adding tannins and humic substances to the water.

How much to use?

Well, that's the million dollar question.

Who knows? Even that is a guess and decidedly unscientific at best! 

It all gets back to the (IMHO) absurd "recommendations" that have been proffered by vendors over the years recommending using "x" number of leaves, for example, per gallon/liter of water. There are simply far, far too many variables- ranging from starting water chem to pH to alkalinity, and dozens of others- which can affect the "equation" and make specific numbers unreliable at best. 

Now, nothing is perfect.

Nothing we can tell you is an absolute guarantee of perfect results...You're dealing with natural materials, and the results you'll see are governed by natural processes that we can only impact to a certain extent by preparation before use. But it's a logical, responsible process that you need to embrace for long-term success.

And when it comes time to adding your botanicals to your aquarium, the second "tier" of this process is to add them to your aquarium slowly. Like, don't add everything all at once, particularly to an established, stable aquarium. Think of botanicals as "bioload", which requires your bacterial/fungal/microcrusacean population to handle them.

Bacteria, in particular, are your first line of defense.

If you add a large quantity of any organic materials to an established system, you will simply overwhelm the existing beneficial bacterial population in the aquarium, which will likely result in a massive increase in ammonia, nitrite, and organic pollutants. At the very least, it will leave oxygen levels depleted, and fishes gasping at the surface as the bacteria population struggles to catch up to the large influx of materials.

This is not some sort of esoteric concept, right? I mean, we don't add 25 3-inch fishes at once to an established, stable 10-gallon aquarium and not expect some sort of negative consequence, right? So why would adding bunch of leaves, botanicals, wood, or other materials containing organics be any different?

It wouldn't.

So please, PLEASE add botanicals to your established aquarium gradually, while observing your fishes' reactions and testing the water parameters regularly during and after the process. Take measured steps.

There is no rush.

There shouldn't be.

It's interesting how the process of selecting, preparing and adding botanical materials to our aquariums has evolved over the time since we've been in business. Initially, it was all about trying to discover what materials weren't "toxic" in some way! Then, it was about figuring out ways to prepare them and make sure that they don't pollute the aquarium. Finally, it's been about taking the time to add them in a responsible, measured matter.

I think our biggest "struggle" in working with botanicals is a mental one that we have imposed upon ourselves over generations of aquarium keeping:  The need to control our own natural desire to get stuff moving quickly; to hit that "done" thing...fast.

And the reality, as we've talked about hundreds of times here and elsewhere, is that there really is no "finished", and that the botanical-style aquarium is about evolution. This type of system embraces continuous change and requires us to understand the ephemeral nature of botanicals when immersed in water.

I know I may be a bit "blunt" when it comes to these topics of preparation, practices, and patience- but they are critical concepts for us to wrap our heads around and really embrace in order to be successful with this stuff.

All caveats and warnings aside, the art and evolving "science" of utilizing natural botanical materials for the purpose of enriching and influencing the environment of the aquarium is an exciting one, promising benefits and breakthroughs that we may not have even thought about yet! It's okay to experiment. However, if you ask me- and a lot of you do- about what I recommend- I'll give you an honest- albeit long-ass- answer! 

Botanicals provide a unique, natural aesthetic which we have embraced and utilized to create inspiring aquatic displays to share with aquarists and non-aquarists alike. With some many potential applications for botanical materials in aquariums, the future is bright and wide open for discoveries and even breakthroughs!

We just need to apply some of the same common-sense hobby "basics" which got us to this point..and maybe to pick up a few new skills along the way as well!

Stay excited. Stay measured. Stay patient. Stay disciplined. Stay curious...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics  

Bouncing off the bottom...The idea of "substrate enrichment" beckons...My continuing substrate obsession...

When it comes to substrates in our aquariums, there are so many choices these days. We have specialized planted aquarium substrates, purely decorative choices, and...and...

Okay, we have those two at the moment.

Yet, don't get me wrong...I LOVE aquarium substrates. I'm practically as obsessed with substrates as you are with rocks or driftwood! Like, weirdly obsessed... Like, I'm the guy who hangs out for uncomfortably long times at the Carib-Sea or Seachem booths at conferences and trade shows, talking it up with the beleaguered sales reps, which just want the day to end, and for this weird guy to stop talking about their products...

Yeah, geeky. 

Like, I'd only sell aquarium substrates if that was a thing. I love them. I think about them a lot. 

Maybe too much!

And soon, we'll have some more truly "functional aesthetic" substrate choices available. In the mean time, you could be adventurous and concoct your own.

Yeah, I've always looked substrate materials the way other people look at cocktails: It's about mixing stuff.

Yeah, seriously. 

Now, in Nature, there are numerous factors which contribute to the composition of substrates in wild aquatic habitats, including geology, the flow velocities of the body of water, the surrounding topography, the seasonal variations in water level (ie; inundation/dessication cycles), and accumulation of materials from the surrounding terrestrial environment.

So, why the @#$%&* do we as hobbyists, who want to create the most realistic approximations of wild habitats possible, just "mail it in" when it comes to substrate? I mean, just open a bag of _____________ sand or whatever, and call it a day and move on to he more "exciting" parts of our tank?

I think we just rely on the commercially available stuff and that's that.

Now, in defense of the manufacturers of sands and gravels for aquarium use- I love what they do, and what they have available. These items are of generally excellent quality, provide a wide range of choices for a variety of applications, and are readily available.

However, IMHO, they are a great "starting point" for creating more dynamic substrates for our aquariums. Kind of like tomato puree is to pasta sauce...a beginning! Sure, you can use just the puree and enjoy your sauce, but isn't it always better to add a bit of this and that and build on the "base"to create something better?

Totally.

(Damn, it's 7:00AM here in L.A., and now I'm craving Penne...WTF?)

There, in a nutshell, is my theory of aquarium substrates. 

We can do a bit better.

Now, in many of the tropical regions we admire, the basic substrate is often referred to simply as "fine, white sand" in most scientific papers- typically, but not necessarily a silica of some sort. And of course, other locations have slightly larger grain sizes of other pulverized stones and such. Still others are comprised of sediments which wash down from higher elevations during seasonal rains.

Deep rivers will typically have different substrate compositions than say, marginal streams or floodplain lakes, or even flooded forests. In the Amazon region, a huge percentage of the sediment and materials which comprise the substrates are from the Andes mountains, where they are transported down into the lower elevations by water flow.

This has huge foundational impact on the chemistry of the waters in the region. This process builds the fertile floodplain soils along Andean tributaries and the main stem of The Amazon.

There is a whole science around aquatic substrates and their morphology, formation, and accumulation- I don't pretend to know an iota about it other than skimming Marine biology/hydrology books and papers from time to time. However, merely exploring the information available on the tropical aquatic habitats we love so much- even just looking long and hard at some good underwater pics of them- can give us some good ideas!

First off, in some areas- particularly streams which run through rain forests and such, the substrates are often simply a soil of some sort. A finer, darker-colored sediment or soil is not uncommon. It's based on the ionic, mineral, and physical concentrations of materials that are dissolved into the water. And it varies based on water velocities and such, as touched on above. 

Meandering lowland rivers maintain their sediment loads by continually re-suspending and depositing materials within their channels- a key point when we consider how these materials stay in the aquatic ecosystems.

Okay, I could go on and on with my amateur, highly un-scientific review of substrates in Amazonia and elsewhere, but you get the point! There is more to the substrate materials found in Nature than just "sand." That's the biggest takeaway here! So, as hobbyists, we have more options and inspiration to to draw on to create more compelling substrates in our aquariums!

What that means to us is (taking into account the "pasta sauce analogy", of course) is that we should consider mixing other materials into our basic aquarium sands. For example, you could mix aquatic plant soils into you sand. You could experiment with materials such as clay, or other mineral/plant-based components of varying particle sizes. 

Obviously, your substrate will look a lot different than the "typical" aquarium substrate when you start mixing materials. Your overall aquarium will, too. And that's a good thing, IMHO. I played around with this a lot in my office brackish water Mangrove aquarium, where the substrate played an integral functional role in the aquarium, as well as an aesthetic one...

 

You're taking something that's typically just sort of "there"  in most aquairums, and making it a lot more interesting- elevating it as an important structural/functional aesthetic component of the aquarium.

And of course, you can experiment with botanical materials!

Yeah, when we first started Tannin Aquatics over 4 years ago, I made it a point to offer you materials which I felt played a key role in what I call "habitat enrichment"- an entirely concocted and decidedly un-scientific way of saying that adding botanical materials into the typical inert substrate materials we use will foster enhanced biological activity. You know, like decomposition, the development of fungi and biofilms, and the the creation of more dynamic areas for fishes to forage among.

Materials such as our "Mixed Leaf Media", which is a combination of finely crushed leaves, form the basis for a more biologically active and even productive substrate. As these materials break down, they are colonized by fungi and biofilms, and impart  tannins, lignin, and other sources of carbon into the water to fuel a variety of microbial growth. And of course, larger crustaceans and even fishes will consume the organisms which live in this "matrix", as well as possibly consuming some of the detritus from the decomposing leaves themselves.

Its a very different looking- and functioning- substrate, for sure. At the risk of sounding too commercial here, suffice it to say, we have a whole damn section on our site called "Substrate Additives" for the very purpose of facilitating such geeky experiments! 

This stuff is THAT interesting to me...It's wide open for lots of experimentations, evolutions, and even breakthroughs.

Look to Nature, again.

Bold experiments and efforts, based on what we see in the wild aquatic habitats of the world. Amazing stuff.

And of course, those types of things require some "trade offs", right?

Yeah, I KNOW that our aquairums are NOT open systems like the wild habitats, and that the dynamics of weather, water input/throughput, etc. are vastly different...However, that doesn't preclude us from trying to replicate- on some levels, the function of these structures as we see them in Nature, does it?

Of course not. You just need to accept some stuff.

You'll have to get used to stringy biofilms. You will see detritus and decomposition. By mixing materials such as "MLM" , "Fundo Tropical", and "Substrate Fino", just to name a few into your sand, you can create a very interesting- one might, to borrow a term from our vivarium friends, call "bioactive" substrate! 

You will also possibly create a bit of a mess if you're not too fastidious about the overall husbandry. You need to not overstock, overfeed, etc. Basic stuff. Sure, it's entirely possible to create a smelly, anaerobic pile of shit on the bottom of your aquarium! You need to move forward with cation. You need to observe very carefully, have reasonable expectations about what will happen, and you have to accept an entirely different look. 

Typically, when "enriching" your substrate with botanical materials, you'll see an initial "surge" of the aforementioned biofilms and such, ultimately subsiding to a sort of "baseline" of a little bit of stuff in and among the substrate. WARNING: It will NEVER look "pristine" or "competition sterile." Get that idea out of your head immediately.

However, it WILL look much, MUCH more natural, dynamic, and altogether unique. When you're incorporate decomposing botanical materials, not only are you adding to the biological load of the aquarium, you will be fostering the growth of beneficial microorganisms, like bacteria...Could this lead to enhanced denitrification or even "fermentation" in deeper substrates, which enhance the overall water quality? And what about it's potential as a "mulch" of sorts for aquatic plant growth?

Are there a lot of benefits to playing with these ideas?

I have evidence to make me believe so...

Mainly, undetectable levels of nitrate and phosphate on advanced hobby-level test kits...you know, overall good water quality. I've maintained these types of substrates over very long periods of time without any issues. Period. You may nuke your entire f--king tank, of course, if you're not careful- but I think it highly unlikely if you follow basic tenants of aquarium husbandry, otherwise! I've played with this idea for almost 15 years without a single issue.

"Gee Scott- thanks! Another way to kill my fishes, courtesy of your weird ideas!"

Okay, it's not that weird. And really, not that dangerous. I just don't want some flat-out beginner, heading home from the LFS with a brand new nano-sized aquarium, complete with a "Sponge Bob" bubbling ornament, purple gravel, and 20 Neon Tetras to go online, find our site, see some pics, and dump 12 ounces of crushed leaves into the gravel and expect some sort of miracles, you know?

So, yeah. Radical ideas require some education and understanding, mindset shifts, managed expectations, and responsibility.

And observation and patience, too. 

Yet, the possibilities are too exciting NOT to venture into this area! 

The idea of "enriching" your aquarium substrate is compelling, especially when we look at it from a more "holistic" perspective of a botanical-style aquarium. It becomes yet another component of the microcosm we create. And of course, it needs to be viewed as a dynamic part of the aquarium's ecology- not simply as an "aquascaping prop" for a tank.

You've seen me playing with the "Urban Igapo" idea and the funky substrates for the better part of a year now, and soon, we'll bring some stuff out for you to try!

In the mean time, please just think about this stuff more...

Think about the process and what goes on in such a substrate. Study it. Observe it.

And reap the potential benefits when it's done right.

Stay bold. Stay creative. Stay observant. Stay vigilant. Stay diligent. Stay patient...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Replicating nature via "selective aesthetic diversity..."

I was staring at pics of what I feel are some of my fave botanical-style aquariums that I've executed over the past few years, and they all seemed to have a commonality of sorts: 

Most of them had wood of some sort as an integral part of the 'scape. Most, not all, of course!

Seems like virtually every freshwater aquarium utilizes some form of wood or rock as part of the aquascaping composition, doesn't it?

Would it be possible to do an interesting aquascape completely devoid of driftwood and rocks of some sort...or even plants?

When we assemble our aquascapes, the supporting cast of materials such as seed pods, wood, rocks, and leaves can make a difference between a subtle, relaxed look and a busy, perhaps even chaotic one. It's easy to add "too much" stuff, right? I mean, we have so many amazing materials to choose from these days, it is possible to have literally dozens of different materials in our aquascapes!

 

However, if the idea is to make the "supporting cast" the "stars" of the whole show, does this change the way we look at things?

Perhaps, right?

Yet, I think that there is more "power" if we limit the number of materials in our botanical-style displays to just a few at a time. I know, that seems a bit odd coming from a guy who owns a company that sells all of this stuff, right? Yet, hear me out...

When we look to Nature for our cues (which we should), we often see a surprisingly homogenous mix of leaves and such in watercourses. You often don't see 50 different types of materials accumulating on the bottom. It's more like a dozen or less, in varying states of decomposition, I might add!

And this sort of makes sense, right? Especially when we take into account the fact that what you'll typically find in a leaf litter bed in a tropical stream, for example, is limited to the botanical materials from the trees and plants that are adjacent to the waterline. 

So I've always been a big fan of creating an interesting botanical component with a few (maybe 6 or so) different materials at the most, to avoid an overly "jumbled" look that's not that realistic. What's really interesting about leaves, for example (oh, here I go again!) is that, even within the context of a single variety (Catappa, for example), you see tremendous variation in color and texture. The natural "imperfection" of leaves is what makes them so...perfect!

As leaves break down, you're also getting both a different "look" out of them in addition to changing benefits  (visual tint, rising microorganism populations, etc.) And, if you're on top of things, "topping off" your leaf litter as it breaks down and decomposes, you'll have a continuously varying 'scape, yet the underlying "theme" remains consistent...just like in nature, actually, where new materials are constantly falling from the trees or being swept by wind into waterways to "do their thing."

And of course, leaves are most ephemeral- breaking down fairly rapidly in the underwater environment. 

This is why we recommend mixing some more "permanent" elements, such as the durable botanical materials  into your leaf litter zone. The use of materials of intermediate durability, provides the underlying "consistency" in the aquascape as the leaves slowly break down. By providing what I like to call "selective aesthetic diversity", you can create the "backbone" of a more-or-less permanent 'scape, comprised largely of "transient" materials!

 

I admit, probably the most compelling aquarium concept I've executed recently was done by creating an aquarium where the leaf litter formed the entire 'scape. I think that it was not only unique-looking, but one of the best-functioning botanical-style tanks I've managed in decades of playing with this stuff!

A "scaled-up" version of the small tank I created based on this idea will be one of my next projects, for sure. And I don't think it will necessarily be "lacking" anything, like substantial vertical elements.

Why?

Because I think by throwing in a few more durable materials, including the aforementioned botanicals, and perhaps a few pieces of driftwood, bark pieces, or branches, oriented in various configurations- that it's entirely possible to create enough variation to keep it interesting for even the most jaded observers.

On the other hand, when I look back on the tank as it was- there was no lack of interest, even with its completely unorthodox aesthetics. The fishes positively glowed in the tank!

It was, if nothing else, a "proof of concept" of the power of "selective aesthetics..."

Yeah, I think that by limiting the number of elements in our botanical-style aquariums, not only do we create a more realistic interpretation of the natural habitats we admire so much- we create a more sustainable scape. What do I mean? Well, if you have that "perfect" balance (aesthetically or otherwise) using two or three botanical materials, it's a lot easier to maintain that than in a system with 14 of 'em, right?

Well, maybe, lol.

I think so!

And quite frankly, Nature seems to do this so effortlessly...and I think there's a lesson for us there! Restraint is never a bad thing...

And there is another thing that we touch on it all the time here: Nature is anything but spotless, symmetrical, and perfectly organized. The very forces which drive the formation of underwater "landscapes" in the wild- rain, wind, sedimentation, falling trees, and materials from the surrounding terrestrial environment- virtually assure that what Nature does with rocks, wood, and plant materials is completely different than what most of us hobbyists do in our tanks.

There is much to take away from observing Nature in its "unfiltered" state. It exists- looks- as it does for a reason.

It is not only part of the natural "aesthetic" of this habitat- it's (more important) part of its functional composition, too- supporting, on some level, a little "food web" that support the other life forms in the aquarium.

Natural. Not sterile. Not "dirty", either.

Just different than the aquarium aesthetic interpretation we've been indoctrinated to follow since our earliest days in the hobby.

Still "clean."

Sure, there are some keys to maintaining aquarium filled with materials like decomposing leaves and botanicals. You definitely need to do regular maintenance. You don't want to overstock...I mean, common sense stuff. However, in a tank filled with considerable organic material, "slight overstocking" and poor general husbandry can be problematic. 

That being said, in almost 22 years of playing with blackwater, botanical-filled systems and other natural-style aquariums using leaves and botanicals, I've never had any issues. No "crashes." No pH "dropouts. No tanks turning into mucky messes.

It's not difficult to maintain a botanical-style aquarium over the long term. 

An aquarium can still be "clean" in terms of its environmental parameters, yet have a look which supports the appearance of natural materials on the substrate in a less-than-"orderly" manner.

It's about husbandry and perspective...

And accepting the fact that the leaves and other natural materials are part of the ecology of the tank, and that they will behave as terrestrial materials do when submerged: They'll break down and decompose.

They'll form the basis of a surprisingly complex food chain, which includes bacterial biofilms, fungi, and minute crustaceans. Each one of these life forms supporting, to some extent, those above...including our fishes.

When you think of the botanical materials not so much as "hardscape props", but as dynamic biological components of a closed microcosm, it all makes a bit more sense...

And when you exercise a little bit of restraint in your 'scaping with botanicals, it can be remarkable how beautiful the aquarium can be. The idea of "selective aesthetic diversity" has more to it than just the "aesthetic" part, I think! 

Stay creative. Stay adventurous. Stay bold...Stay fascinated. Stay disciplined...

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

"Points of Failure"- and how to counter them...

One of the nice things about being in the aquatics industry on a full-time basis is the exposure you have to lots of different people, ideas, and information in "real time." And sometimes, it's nice to reflect on what you see and ferret out a few nuggets of wisdom from it all. And sometimes, you can learn about what NOT to do as you observe and interact with people in the hobby and industry.

Okay, at the bit of sounding just a bit negative today, I'm pondering on a few things that have been on my mind lately about the aquarium hobby. This usually leads to either a good discussion, or a sound thrashing of me by readers...so this should be fun!  It's an ugly f---ing dose of reality, courtesy of me, "Mr. Sunshine", to brighten up your Friday!

Now, there are a lot of articles, blogs, and tips on how to succeed at this-or-that aspect of the hobby, which is awesome. I've written a bunch, myself. They have their place, for sure!

But those of us who have been in the hobby and industry for a while have seen a lot of- for want of a better term- the "dark side" of the aquarium hobby and industry. We've seen all kinds of hobbyists, businesses, and ideas come and go. And after a while, you get a distinct feeling that you know what works and what doesn't. You can see when the proverbial "train is headed for the washed-out bridge", or "the ship is steering into the rocks", if you will. 

We need to talk about ways you can fail.

Seriously. 

Today, in the hope that we can all learn about what does NOT work, I give you some examples of ways to fail in the aquarium hobby. (This is really less geared towards YOU- the more advanced aquarist, or the LFS person- more towards creating a" discussion track" for you to run with when dealing with someone who is completely new to the hobby, or perhaps a more experienced hobbyist who is...a bit misled.)

It's kind of our responsibility, as advanced hobbyists, industry types, and good stewards of the aquarium world to look at the absurdity of some of this stuff, so that we can prevent others from making these horrible mistakes, costing the lives of precious fish.

Here are my top 5.

No doubt you have more, but it's a start!

1) Jump in without doing research. Yeah, seriously. The aquarium hobby as we know it has only been around for like 100 years or so. The tenants of basic aquarium husbandry are still wide open for the foolhardy to dismiss. Examples? Well, don't worry about mixing fishes from different environmental conditions together! Calling your an aquarium a "community tank" somehow negates all of the potential downsides of mixing incompatible fishes! We've all seen this hundreds of times, and the many sad outcomes which arise as a result end the hobby experience for many...

Or, how  about this one: The idea that fishes will somehow "grow to the size of their aquarium" and "adapt'' just fine to smaller tanks! "I'll get a larger tank down the line." (If I had a dollar for every time I heard THAT one...). This justification has lead to the cruel demise of many fishes over the decades...

2) Believing that this or that product will relieve you of the need to obey basic aquarium husbandry principles. Yeah, really! If you use this additive or employ this filter media, there is no need for water changes. Ever! Feeding this food will prevent fish disease. Botanicals will lower your pH, soften your water, and give you "Instant Orinoco" conditions effortlessly!

Or, using this electronic controller means you'll never have to monitor water chemistry again! Just spending the money on ____________ automatically grants you a special exemption from the "aquarium gods",  and gives you special status whereby you can dismiss all of the "rules" and achieve success with minimal attention and effort. "I read on internet about this guy who..." 

Ughh.

Seriously. I see and hear this one a lot on both sides of the "salinity line."We saw this a LOT in the reef aquarium world, and I'm seeing it more and more in the specialized niche we operate in now. Some people just want the "end product" of a fantastic aquarium without the work... Thank goodness there are tons of great aquarium maintenance services out there! 

 

3) Accelerating the timeline when establishing a new aquarium. Hey, the kids want to see fish in the tank by tonight for the party! "I'll start with just a few fish: Like, a dozen Neons, six Tiger Barbs, a few "Algae Eaters" (gotta have those)..." We've all seen and heard the various claims out there: Todays modern filters, additives, and gadgets will help you succeed despite having any knowledge of what you're doing! The nitrogen cycle is "instantly established" and your aquarium "...can achieve biological balance in a day with this stuff!"

Regrettably, marketing hyperbole, when taken out of context can give a newbie the completely wrong impression of the capabilities and applications for a product. Much like certain reality TV shows which fail to highlight all of the underlying steps that went into the project to get it to "point C", right? 

4) Continuing at full speed even when stuff is going wrong and animals are dying. I've seen this a lot on the "reef" side of the trade: A customer will buy a bunch of livestock, experience horrific losses (generally due to a complete disregard-intentional or otherwise- of a properly-established nitrogen cycle), conclude without real research that the losses were due to "bad fish", and then continue to the next LFS, online vendor, breeder, etc. and grab another bunch of animals to replace the ones that died!

After the second inevitable disaster ensues, some call "uncle" and either quit or maybe- just maybe-they make the effort to figure out why. Those who persist, continue to kill fish, buy and misapply products and equipment to solve the "problem", and typically leave the hobby soon after, concluding that "quality control" in the industry makes it impossible to succeed. Those who take a time out and study and talk- and listen to experienced hobbyists generally succeed!

5) Don't share your experiences. Really.  Nope. There is nothing anyone else can learn from you. Or, you've figured out this information after years of triumph and tragedy, so you're not just gonna give it away! It's "proprietary" in nature, and others should learn the way you did. Be grumpy, and lock yourself and your secrets in your fish room, away from the "unworthy" denizens of the larger aquarium world. 'Cause that's helpful, right?

Don't be a jerk. 

Okay, I've literally just scratched the surface here. There are probably thousands of ways to fail in the aquarium hobby, and I've touched on just a few. I know there are hundreds of ways to fail just using botanicals alone!

The real important takeaway of the semi-sarcastic "romp" we took here is for those of us in a position to help to see the signs, and know what to do.

And of course, I have advice for those of us on "the other side of the counter", or monitor, as the case may be...

I think it's imperative that we encourage anyone who enters this hobby to do the research before they leap into things. Honestly, even someone coming into your shop completely "green", but eager to drop money, should leave with little more than information, or a book at least, before they purchase anything.

Really.  I know it seems insane, quaint, and perhaps a bit unrealistic...but is it really that bad to slow people down?

A half hour of indoctrination session in the LFS is just that- a half hour of indoctrination. It takes much more for the beginner to grasp what's really going on, but it's a start, right? And yeah, it seems "fantasy land" to take on this attitude when the internet beckons and competition is fierce, but I ask you: Wouldn't you rather send someone home with information first, and gain a long-term customer, than to just grab the quick and easy sale? Don't you think that they will come back to purchase stuff from you- because you took the time? And, won't someone who is successful in the hobby because you took the time to work with them refer their friends to you?

Don't ya' think?

I do.

I know many successful fish stores and online vendors who have used this "education/indoctrination" approach and have achieved great success...

I've literally told people who've reached out to me to hold off trying to use botanicals until they've familiarized themselves with the whole game. I can typically detect these people pretty easily, because they'll ask the most basic of questions that are certain "tell"s that reveal: a) They are new to the aquarium hobby, and b) They haven't even bothered to read any of the information we have on our website about the product and processes. 

"Red flags", IMHO.

I mean, I love enthusiasm, and you have to pull the trigger and jump at some point, but there is an ethical responsibility I feel to tell them to hit the brakes. And I admit,  it doesn't always go well.  Some don't like it. Not one bit. 

Such is life, right? You can't please everyone! 

Another one for us:

Don't always solve problems with "products."

I think that many aquarium problems are created by very basic mistakes, and that simply throwing money on the problem isn't really a solution. Rather, it's a "band aid." Take the time to explain to the newbie just what it was that caused the issue in the first place, and how to prevent it. Knowing the cause, effects, and preventative/corrective measures to take is far better than simply buying this-or-that product as a "solution." Over the years, you'll sell far more products to a successful hobbyist than you will with some temporary fix.

You know that. And of course, there are situations where the need for a quick fix is warranted. Just think it though. 

Preach patience to any new hobbyist. It's the single most important factor in their success, IMHO.

Get them to understand just how things work in an aquarium, and why things are done a certain way. Explain to them that aquariums, being natural systems, are affected by the same laws of nature as occur in the wild, and that grasping stuff like the nitrogen cycle, fish compatibility, environmental requirements, etc. will give them a greater understanding of what's going on, and how to recognize for themselves in the future when something is going wrong- or right! It's a better long term strategy, IMHO.

Above all, encourage sharing of information at all levels in the hobby. With the internet, there has never been a better time to learn about the hobby. To keep information that can help others accomplish things and solve problems in the hobby isn't just uncool- it's a tragedy that can have far-reaching consequences, especially in this era where the hobby and industry face mounting external pressures from ill-informed "environmentalists" and other "nature advocates", who would just assume lump aquarists in with loggers, oil producers, and blast fishermen.

The hobby is ours to share, protect, preserve, and to pass on to our children.

So in conclusion, we should all learn to recognize the signs of a hobbyist who's headed in the wrong direction- not just because it's the honorable thing to do for them, but because of the greater good in the hobby-and the environment- that is served when we take the time to prevent them from failing.

Until next time, I leave you with that thought.

Stay focused. Stay concerned.

And stay wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics