February 21, 2016

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Cause for hope from the LFS

Doesn't it seem like the venerable local fish store gets maligned just too much these days?

I think it does. 

I mean, we've touched on this before her in The Tint, but the LFS is just a target for a lot of hobbyist hate, much of it unfounded, IMHO. Like, "it's all about making money. Nothing more"

I hate hearing that.

Sure, there are plenty of really shortsighted LFS personnel and owners, but the same could be said for online vendors as well. There are tons of unprofessional, brash, and downright incompetent online vendors as well. However, its much easier to bash the LFS for some reason...

I was in my local shop yesterday. I haunt this place weekly, as I know when the shipments come in and I'm always on the prowl for new stuff! There I was, admiring some Licorice Gouramis(!), when I overheard a conversation between an employee and another customer. The customer wanted to know if he could put a 60 gallon tank on a table he had.

Rather than just say, "sure", or even be dismissive, the LFS employee did what any competent, intelligent aquarium person would: He asked a lot of questions. Explained that water weighs 8 lbs per gallon, and that support is needed in multiple locations on a table which is intended to hold an aquarium, etc., etc.

And this isn't all that unusual. There are plenty of amazing people everywhere at the LFS. We just somehow have to get our heads out of the dangerous "groupthink" that says "All fish stores are filed with ignorant, misinformed personnel..."

An unfair, antiquated notion, to say the least. Let's ditch it, ok?

I had a great LFS experience just listening in.

I felt like I was getting a great education. It goes to show you that the right people make the difference. Everywhere. 

Very simple thought for today...Back at it tomorrow!

Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

February 20, 2016

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Too much of a good thing? In some cases, yeah...

Can you really have too much of a good thing?

Or,  do you subscribe to the  Billy Idol philosophy that "Too much is never enough..."?

Well, let's quantify this...We're talking about aquascaping. Specifically, the use of rocks, wood, aquatic botanicals. They all look awesome in an aquascape, but it's quite easy to over do it, isn't it?

And by "overdo", I don't mean the impact of so many botanicals on the physical environment, to the point where your tank is so black with tannins that you can't see the back...I'm talking about too much in the context of  the design element- no open, or "negative" space in the aquascape...to the point where it becomes a relentless expanse of...stuff.

I think it's entirely possible to overdo it and just make an aquascape too busy. Unless you're trying to replicate a zone in a stream or creek that is covered in rocks, leaf litter, and driftwood, it's never a bad thing to "edit."

I did this recently when I set up my home office tank. It was a South American-Inspired 'scape; not designed to be entirely biopic, but rather, 'a blackwater hardscape with South American inspiration!" I wanted to incorporate elements of the dynamic leaf litter/streambed environment, while still keeping some artistic elements, such as ratio and negative space.

Jeff Senske's masterful 'scape with Tannin aquatic botanicals created a dynamic aquatic environment, while still showing restraint...

I started with a ton of botanicals strewn all over the bottom, nestled under some nice Manzanita pieces. It looked cool- if I were trying to replicate a busy leaf litter biotope...which I wasn't. I had to swallow my pride and "edit" a bit. I removed a lot of the "incongruous" botanicals that didn't seem as though they'd naturally accumulate where they were placed.

Any you know what? The impact of having some negative space in there was far, far greater than when I had tons of botanicals in there! Each and every botanical had a far greater impact when it wasn't virtually covered by others.

It's a trick we see in planted tanks, too...and reef aquariums, for that matter...

Try it next time your 'scape just doesn't feel "right."

"Respect the white space..."

Less IS more.

Think about it.

Stay creative. Stay excited.

And stay wet!

Scott 

February 18, 2016

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Whose line is it, anyways? The search for Nannostomus marilynae..or whatever it is!

As fish geeks, we get into some pretty esoteric stuff, huh? 

We all have our geek-out about different stuff...one of the things I geek out about is making sure that I have the fish that I actually think I have. And one of my favorite groups of fishes, characins, specifically, Pencilfishes of he genus Nannostomus- just happens to be chock full of fishes that bear a rather annoying resemblance to each other, making positive identification a real challenge. What this typically means is that a shockingly large percentage of the time, the fish you think you are purchasing is not what it is supposed to be!

Case in point: 

I recently acquired a small group of what were offered as "Marginatus Pencilfish" from my LFS. Of course, being the fish geek that I am, I immediately was charmed by the fish, but also realized that...they...were not...N. marginatus! Of course, that made them even MORE attractive to me (that's a fish-geek truism- mis-identified fishes are irresistible! Why is that? Hmm...).

(The "real" N. marginatus- note the red in the fins...)

Of course, I did what any self-respecting fish geek would do: I bought the whole group! I mean, it was only six fish, but they were perfect sized for my new tank, and they looked awesome!

Once I got them home, acclimated, quarantined, and introduced into the display aquarium- the whole deal- I spent some time looking at them, once again attempting to make a "best guess" at their identification. If you're a Pencilifish lover, you'll notice that a lot of different species seem to trade under just a few names, N. mariginatus and N. trifasciata being two of the more commonly "over-applied" names in the trade. 

The first thing I noticed was the distinct absence of red almost anywhere on my fish's bodies. Now, that in and of itself wouldn't be 100% conclusive as a reason why my fish are NOT Marginatus, but it's a pretty good clue. Through the power of the internet, I was able to locate a paper by the two guys who really know the genus better than anyone, Stanley Weizmann and J. Stanley Cobb, and it was pretty cool. Of course, not being a scientist, these papers generally make my head spin...However, there was some good information for a non-scientist who was persistent!

After perusing this paper, I realized that the real "X Factor"with Pencilfishes, at least to the layman,  who isn't about to do scale counts, fin ray counts, or DNA testing, is the stripes. Ubiquitous in the genus, they do serve as a starting reference point for at least a rough species identification. Indeed, Eitzmann and Cobb did a thorough study on the genus for the Smithsonian in 1975, and made the following, very interesting statement in their abstract:

"Evolutionary trends toward specialization within the genus appear to be development of longitudinal stripes, development of oblique bands, loss of ossification of the sensory canal in the second infraorbital bone, an elongation and thickening of the anal-fin rays of males as an aid to fertilizing eggs, possibly the development of an ocellus in the dorsal lobe of the caudal fin, and development of nuptial tubercles on the ventral surface of the head."

So, in other words, stripes and bands on the body are pretty important in establishing the identification of species, and each species' stripes were some form of evolutionary adaptation.

Wow, I was hooked even more on these fish! But I still wasn't sure what I had. I narrowed it down to three species: N. beckfordi, N. minimus, and N. eques. Notice N. marginatus wasn't even in the running after I read the Smithsonian paper?

After reading this paper, looking at a lot of other pictures, and hobby-related websites and material, I've sort of zeroed in on N. marilynae as my primary candidate. And I think I'm as correct as any other amateur!

Of course, there are still a few other nagging candidates that share similar charachteristics. For example,  at times, Nannostomus marilynae may have a moderately developed secondary stripe, and weak secondary stripes may occur in N. beckfordi and especially in N. digrammus.

The official description of N, marilynae is at least sort of helpful, but of course, the amateur can see the same things in a bunch of Pencilfish species: "Primary horizontal stripe black, continuous onto ventral lobe of caudal fin, cover- ing proximal one-third to more than one-half of 5 or 6 dorsalmost rays of that fin lobe. Secondary stripe black but usually weakly developed. Silvery stripe between primary and secondary horizontal stripes with a greenish and pale golden reflectant color, producing what essentially looks like a burnished greenish silvery stripe."

Okay, pretty helpful. If I can just get a good pic and if the fish could just cooperate a bit more!

(From the Smithsonian paper...helpful, sort of?)

N. marilynae was named after Stanley Weitzman's wife, Marilyn Weitzman.  Kind of romantic, actually!  Described in 1975 by Weitzman and Cobb, but I understand that it was occasionally imported as N. bifasciatus before that. That name was attached to any two stripe Pencil for a long time. That's how confusing the ID of Pencilfishes is!

 (My video frame grab...even less helpful)

And, these fishes are supposedly rare in the trade, typically arriving in the hobby only as a "by-catch" of more commercially viable fishes like Cardinal Tetras and such, and are simply called "Pencilfish" in most importer's stock lists, often misidentified as the "catch-all" N. marginatus- a usually safe bet, because everyone know that most fish don't show their "comfort colors" while in transit or at the LFS, right? Yeah.

I suspect that they are brought in rather frequently..and rampantly misidentified (perhaps likeAI'm doing here right now?)...

And here I am, perhaps perpetuating the same misidentification that has plagued the group for decades! Just reading a couple of papers and detailed articles doesn't make me remotely qualified to draw many conclusions. However, being a hobbyist, I am not going to go crazy, either. I just want to know which one I have, to a reasonable degree of certainty.

(From the fine hobby site, Seriously Fish- N, marilynae)

It reminds me very much of the confusion we had with coral ID in the reef aquarium hobby/trade. Misidentification and use of "common names" and "morphs", none of which have any scientific meaning- is rampant, and it's really hard to know exactly what species you're dealing with. Most of the "rare" varieties of Acropora, for instance, are just color variations of common species, like Acropora tenuis.

Ahh, just when I thought life could get more simple, right? 

The conclusion? It's fun to know what you have, to do some digging. But it's also fraught with problems, and publicly concluding something without 100% positive identification is perhaps even more detrimental than the misidentification that as already going on, so I'm not going to state with any degree of certainty that I know exactly what I have! 

Regardless of what my little brown Pencilfish are, I love them dearly. 

That's good enough for me.

For now, anyways.

Todays tale of stripes, fin ray counts, and excessive hobbyist curiosity.

Until next time- stay persistent. Stay educated. Stay focused.

And stay wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

February 17, 2016

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When good botanicals go bad...just a phase?

So what happens after you place your botanicals into your aquarium?

I mean, what can you expect? Well, a few things. First of all, if you've properly prepared them as per our "Aquatic Botanical Preparation" page, you'll expect them to pretty much sink right to the bottom.

All good.

Well, occasionally, you'll get one or two that refuse to "give up", and rise to the surface. What do you do?

A couple of options here: Best is to remove the "offender" and soak it in some boiling water for about 20 minutes. That typically does the trick. Or, you can leave it overnight or longer in a container of room temperature fresh water, continuing the process you began some time back.

The more serious concern most people have is what to do when they see yucky "biofilms" start taking over their botanicals after placement in their tanks. This doesn't happen in every aquarium, but it happens often enough that we have to view it as a sort of "phase" that our systems go through when utilizing aquatic botanicals, much as we endure as reefers with nasty algae blooms over our freshly set-up live rock and sand.

I'm reminded of the expression that we use in reef keeping a lot to describe algae issues: "Algae will opportunistically colonize undefended substrates that provide a suitable growing surface."

So, same thing with botanicals. The biofilms will arise relatively quickly on some botanicals, forming unsightly, stringy/gooey "snot" that looks like it's gonna take over the tank.

What do you do?

First off, don't panic.

 

This is a natural occurrence; bacteria and other microorganisms taking advantage of a perfect substrate upon which to grow and reproduce. Freshly added botanicals offer a "mother load"of organic material for these biofilms to propagate, and that's occasionally what happens - just like in nature.

Of course, an aquarium is not a tropical stream or lake, and you don't want to see a tankful of snot! Not to worry.

First off, take comfort in the fact that this is sort of a passing phase, and can take anywhere from a few days to 2-3 weeks before it subsides. During that time, there are some actions you can take besides cursing the whole idea of throwing aquatic botanicals in your system in the first place!

  • You can wait it out. That's right. Do nothing, except appreciate the wonders of nature, no matter how unsightly they may be at times. I mean, didn't nature make the "Death Flower" and the "Slime Mold" Yeah.

 

  • You can remove the offending botanicals, give them a good scrub with a soft bristle brush (like an old toothbrush), a rinse in fresh water, and put 'em back in.

 

  • You can remove the botanicals, give them a good scrub, and re-boil/soak them again. Although a bit redundant, this does have the advantage of removing some of the trapped organics that lead to the initial "outbreak", but you may see it happen again.

 

  • You can leave the botanicals in place, and employ some natural control, in the form of ornamental shrimp. Yeah, that's right- your "Crystal Red Shrimp", "Bee Shrimp", and the rest absolutely adore biofilms, and will attack it voraciously. Alternatively, we've learned that some fishes, like Plecos, some Corydoras cats, and even Leporinus and other "Headstanders" seem to pick at this stuff fairly aggressively.

 

Obviously, the important thing to remember here is not to panic, and make rash decisions, tossing away everything. The only reason I'd toss away a botanical is if it takes on that yucky "hydrogen sulfide" (rotten egg ) smell. This doesn't happen in every situation. You'll occasionally get a seed pod or other botanical that will get that smelly, mushy thing going on...toss it.

Remember, even the most durable pods and leaf-like botanicals will soften up after preparation and prolonged submergence. That's what happens in nature, too. That's why leaf litter contributes to the richness of the aquatic environment, fostering the growth of microorganisms that serve as food for fish fry, and benthic creatures that provide foraging opportunities for adult fishes, like dwarf cichlids, catfishes, and even Tetras, some Bettas, and Killifish.

One interesting phenomenon that I've noticed: When botanicals are added to a system that already has the influence of humic substances and tannins, such as in the case of a system where you've added Catappa leaves or bark- the incidence of this biofilm occurring in significant amounts is rather uncommon.

I think- and notice I say "I think"- that the reason might be the alleged anti-microbial properties that these leaves appear to possess, perhaps to some degree limiting the excessive growth of bacteria. Remember, this is just a theory I'm tossing out, based on purely anecdotal observation from myself and others who play with botanicals, and the science behind this may be in conflict with the theory. Regardless, it's something I've noticed. 

Take away- perhaps it's not a bad idea to throw in your Catappa leaves, bark, etc. first- or at least, concurrently with the other botanicals, to test out this theory.

Of course, there may be so many other factors involved, such as the "maturity" of the aquarium in question, or the pH, alkalinity, etc. of the water- lots of potential variables to consider. 

Regardless of what course of action-if any- you choose to take to address the "biofilm phase", should it occur in your tank- the key takeaway here is not to panic. Like so many things in aquarium keeping, we need to understand what's actually going on before jumping to conclusions. When you understand that what's going on is just part of the natural cycle, you'll perhaps be able to take a bit of comfort knowing that this little "right of passage" you are experiencing is a transient thing- part of the dynamic processes that occur when wood, leaves, water, and life interact.

As this is a relatively new practice, we still have much to learn. Feel free to share your experiences, theories, and observations, so that we may all benefit!

Stay engaged. Stay calm.

And stay wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

February 16, 2016

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Aquatic botanicals as a "spawning aid?" Sure!

Wouldn't it be cool to provide your Tetras, dwarf cichlids, barbs, and other South Ameircan, Southeast Asian, and West African fishes with a more natural, relaxed representation of the physical environments from where they originate?

One which can not only foster effective spawning, but can give the resulting fry protection, as well as  benefits from the microorganisms that arise from the decomposition of botanical materials?

With the introduction to the hobby of natural botanical materials, this is now possible in an easy-to-access, convenient-to-use, and economical format. 

I remember reading many years ago in aquarium books about using peat moss and to create "more natural" water conditions; mainly, softer, acid water and the benefits of humic acids and tannins that were imparted to the water from this material. We're a generation later, and peat is considered a non-sustainable and increasingly scarce resource; not nearly as pervasive as it once was in serious hobby circles.

Fortunately, we have all sorts of other more sustainable products at our disposal, including seed pods, leaves, and bark from plants which can perform many of the same functions that peat once did, with the added benefit of helping create of more aesthetically pleasing environment for both you and your fishes!

First and foremost is leaf litter. By using properly prepared leaves of the Indian Almond Tree, Guava, or other tropical trees, you can not only provide your fishes with a realistic and comforting representation of their natural environment- you can help reduce pH and hardness, and, as the leaves decompose, provide a natural supplemental food for fry in the form of "infusoria" and other small microorganisms. 

In fact, the use of leaf litter and other botanicals in your substrate is a perfectly acceptable way to create an environment for benthic organisms, that will benefit a wide range of foraging fishes, from Tetras to Loricariids.

(Awesome pic by  our friend, Andreas Melander!)

We love the idea of creating an aquarium environment that utilizes these materials to replicate the natural habitats of fishes. Imagine the benefits to your fishes! As we've discussed before, once you get the idea out of your had that "leaves and stuff" breaking down and sort of "evolving" in your aquascape is both natural and beneficial, it's much easier to appreciate them for all of the advantages they bring.

To summarize, the use of aquatic botanicals can benefit your spawning fishes in several ways:

  • Provide a more natural-looking environment, which may serve to stimulate social and spawning behaviors.
  • Impart tannins and humic acids to the aquatic environment, softening the water and lowering the pH, in addition to providing a visual tint to the aquarium that calms the fish.
  • The gradual decomposition of the botanicals fosters the growth and reproduction of beneficial microorganisms that are utilized by fry for supplemental early nutrition.

If you're attempting to breed some soft-water fishes and looking for an alternative to the sterile, highly controlled spawning aquarium, may we suggest that you try a more natural setup incorporate a dynamic selection of aquatic botanicals?

Give it some thought, and apply some of your creativity to the process, and let's see what happens!

Stay focused. Stay engaged.

Stay wet!

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

February 15, 2016

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Five faves we've taken for granted: Aquatic Botanicals that deserve another look.

Have you played around with our aquatic botanicals yet?

We're pleased to say that more and more adventurous and creative hobbyists are creating aquariums with diverse selections of natural materials for unique and memorable displays.

If you haven't experimented with these botanicals, and have been itching to explore some new aquascaping and habitat enrichment ideas, you'll be delighted to explore our collection.  And if you have, you've probably already found some faves...With a diverse selection, and new ones coming into the mix all the time, some of our most beloved botanicals sometimes are overlooked. Here are some of our favorite botanicals, which definitely deserve a place in your aquascape:

 

1) COCO CURLS

WHY WE LOVE 'EM: These botanicals are simple, natural, and have a unique curled shape which lends them to a variety of aquascaping uses. Integrated with leaf litter, or just scattered randomly on the substrate, they help evoke that "jungle streamed" look. They also impart a nice tannin "tint" to the water as they break down, enriching the environment.

THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE AWESOME: They are easy to prepare, requiring a relatively short prep time. And, Plecos  LOVE them! They do, however, have a tendency to "disappear" in a mix of other, more dynamic botanicals, so you would want to use them in unexpected places on the substrate for maximum effect. They last for a very, very long time in most aquatic environments.

 

2) TERRA SORRINDO PODS

WHY WE LOVE 'EM: A study in textural contrasts, these botanicals are super cool to mix in with more "transient leaf litter" for a complete effect. They are useful on their won for creating really great aquascaping effects, and provide terrific foraging areas for shrimp and dwarf cichlids.

THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE AWESOME:  They have a completely unique look, and don't break down quickly at all, so they retain their shape, color, and texture indefinitely. They take a little bit longer to sink than we'd like, but tend to last for very long periods of time with minimal degradation.

 

3) LAMPADA PODS

WHY WE LOVE 'EM: They have such a cool aesthetic, and set off botanicals like leaves and other "flat" specimens with their curvy, pear like shape and interesting color. They come split in halves, so you get a great look whether you use them "right side up" or inverted. Occasionally, we have intact "snappers" for a totally different look!

THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE AWESOME: Lampadas are easy to sink, and help you create little pockets of interest in your substrate, standing out against leaves with their distinctive shape and texture. Shrimp love 'em! They do tend to recruit more of that "funky" biofilm than we'd like early on, looking kind of nasty, but it soon clears (with or without human or piscine/shrimp "intervention", and they last a really long time submerged!

 

4) HEART PODS

WHY WE LOVE 'EM: Heart Pods sink...like a rock...like, immediately. They also last pretty much "forever" underwater (I still have my original test specimens from 2 years ago!). They are small, and look exactly like what they are- little seeds that fell into the water! Some are darker in color on the exterior...making for a cool contrast!

THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE AWESOME: Heart Pods can be used "right side up" or inverted for random natural effects. They impart no real detectable tint to the water. Their small size means they can get easily lost in a 'scape using lots of botanicals, so you have to use them creatively to highlight their charms. Did we mention that they last...indefinitely?

 

5) DRIED BANANA STEM PIECES

WHY WE LOVE 'EM: These are assume of the most distinctive-looking botanicals we offer. They look for all the world like a fossilized bone, but are distinctly botanical in form! They are easy to use, and perfectly compliment almost any other leaf or pod.

THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE AWESOME: These sink after relatively little prep time, and impart a surprisingly nice amount of tannins into the water, given their typical small size. They do tend to accumulate a bit more of that "biofilm" and "funk" during their early stages underwater, but it's easily mitigated. An added bonus is that, once the are submerged a while, they swell up significantly, to sometimes twice their original size and diameter, for a great look!

The best thing about aquatic botanicals is that they provide you with a real "palette" of shapes, forms, and colors to experiment with. By using a simple variety of just a few selected pieces together, you can create memorable, attractive hardscapes, which happen to be extremely functional as well!

 

Hopefully ,we've encouraged you to take another look at the "supporting players" highlighted in this brief piece. Each one has its own distinctive charms, and deserves a place in your natural aquascape.

Until next time...leave no pod unturned..Stay creative...

And stay wet!

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

 

 

February 14, 2016

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One small tank and like 4000 big ideas...whew!

I'm deep into the planning on the second of two new aquariums in my home. It's a great feeling, I'm now in that most exciting phase of the planning process (in my warped opinion, anyways): the "Which idea do I try?" phase! On the surface, this seems like a really great place to be- and it is-but it's actually a very crucial (and sometimes soul-searching) process that can make the difference between a memorable, unique display and "just another tank." And of course, this one is smack dab in my family room, where it's probably the most visible aquarium in my house.

 

No pressure here.

In 30-plus years in the hobby, I've tried a lot of stuff. And, let's face it- I've set the bar pretty high for myself!  Big mouth that I am, I've spent that last ten years jet-setting around the country talking up unique reef system design and aquascaping at clubs, conferences, and in various aquatic media, goaded others into trying crazy stuff while owning Unique Corals, and now, at Tannin Aquatics, I'm singing the praises of "blackwater" aquariums with aquatic botanicals and hardscape materials... So-It's practically expected of me that I do something a bit...different. Man, it's time to put up or shut up! Who needs this pressure! This self-appointed "purveyor of inspiration" and ideas for the hobby should take some of his own advice. Maybe I'll just have FUN! I'll just do what pleases me. Yeah!

 Rather than trying to create a system specifically designed to knock everyone's socks off with some brilliantly radical concepts, I'm thinking I might actually come up with a semi-conventional concept done REALLY well. You know- just great quality animals displayed in an attractive manner. On the other hand, I've kicked around a few slightly different ideas for this challenging little 20 gallon "high" tank (a tank that I accidentally ordered in the wrong dimensions-I avoid tall tanks like the plague):

I have coveted creating an open top mangrove biotope, or a simulated Palau "coral island" for the last decade. Hmm, this tank is too small. I could try to construct a moss-encrusted driftwood structure with just a few cool killies, like Aphyosemion or Epiplatys species. No, wait- maybe another Lake Tanganyika "shellie" tank, with lots of cool rock and shells and some little ____________. Hmm...but kinda tall. Nah. Or, perhaps THIS will be the display where I just build an aquascape consisting entirely of a pile of rubble with a smattering of driftwood? Hmm. No, wait– maybe I'll do a group of   small rock structures, with strong current and some open sand in between for lots of really small gobies (marine). Hmm..but this time, I'll use that dark substrate I flirted with in my last system. That will make their colors pop!

Of course, I can always do a species aquarium, featuring a few of my beloved Ctenopoma or Badis species in a lush plant-only aquascape. Hmm..kinda small, though. And so "green." Is THIS the aquarium that I revisit the idea of simply showing in some brightly-colored Plates, a bunch of Water Sprite, a few choice rocks, and calling it a day?Or an entire "garden" of Cryptocoryne, and some beautiful Galaxy Rasbora? Hmmm. Wait a minute: perhaps I will create a biotope for Botia: Some low-lying rock structures and a LOT of open sand (of course- the DARK sand that I was talking about). Well, those weird dimensions again...

Ya know what? I could try a version of a paludarium, with rock projecting clean out of the water and some riparian plants. Love that idea. On the other hand, I love rare Bettas and Gouramis, and I could simulate a dark Southeast Asian drainage ditch choked with plants and wood.  Wow... Well, I've had that bug up my ass about one day creating a biotope featuring Millstream Loaches in a group, but this tank won't work (damn that tall dimension...I should just trade this tank...) or perhaps a colony of fancy guppies, with a big, low-lying thicket of plants. How cool would it be to dedicate a large tank to the fish of my childhood? Like 20 of 'em!

But wouldn't a system dedicated entirely to the needs of say, Coolie Loaches be sooo radical?  I mean, who's done that. Oops, there I go. Well, there is always the idea I’ve had of a tank devoted exclusively to Kribs; some mixed grain sand and lots of little rocks and crevices for them to hide and hunt in. Arghh, this tank is too tall...You know, I COULD try to simulate just the top of a reef, with a low lying matrix of rock covering the entire bottom, with no substrate and a Ecotech Marine Vortech MP 40 cranked up full blast on a collection of Acropora gemmifera or Acropora millepora. Hmmm. Well, dude, this is only 20 gallons. I saw a movie once about Fiji and its ridiculously lush growth of soft corals..That could work in 20 gallons...Or, maybe a system with only super-choice Pencilfish and a ton of Catappa leaves as the sole substrate? Well, I have always wanted to do a monospecific anemone biotope with just one huge anemone on a large rock structure, but maybe I'm better off doing a shallow-water Condylactis anemone and some Sexy Shrimp. But a Splash Tetra paludarium beckons...

Maybe I'll just throw in  some small goldfish..the "anti-high-concept" tank.

Nah.   

No- maybe it's time for another tank.  Or a few other tanks! 

Maybe I just need to settle on a concept for this one first. Yeah.

Till next time...Keep those ideas flowing. Try a few of 'em...

and Stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

February 13, 2016

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Fish geek math: Petite water exchanges. Easy.

Don't you just love water exchanges? Seems like I'm one of those weirdos who does. I am not even sure what the specific reason is...but I like doing them. It's like a "feel-good, tank bonding" ritual thingy for me, I suppose. I dunno. A habit.

Not everyone shares my geeky enthusiasm about 'em.

I talk to a lot of hobbyists daily, and it's practically a given that they'll complain about doing water exchanges as much as we like to complain about stuff like taxes, our cable bill, or whatever.

Seriously. What makes us dislike something that's so beneficial for our fishes?

Maybe it's the whole dogma of the thing...or the way "the books" made it seem like this major thing- like an oil change on our car or something.

Since our “infant days” in the hobby, we’ve had it drilled into our collective heads to perform "regular water exchanges" on our aquariums. It’s one of those hobby “facts of life” that we just can’t avoid. We know that they're beneficial...

I think it's because of the Draconian demands to perform them that water exchanges tend to be viewed by many hobbyists as a "necessary evil"; a practice that we put off or begrudgingly embrace on a random, periodic basis.

Many hobbyists will do the occasional 10%-25% water exchange once a month, maybe even once every couple of months, or even less often (oh, the horror!)!

Okay, it's 2016, a new year- I say to defer those other, tired resolutions (quitting smoking, working towards world peace, eating more healthy, excercise, blah, blah, blah) and shoot for something more important: Developing an easy aquarium husbandry habit!

5% Twice A Week. Yeah, really!

As you've heard ad nauseum for years, a primary benefit of the water exchange is the dissolution of dissolved organics in the water. The accumulation of this stuff can lead to significant degradation of your tank’s water quality over time. Many anomalous “crashes” have their roots in lax maintenance practices.

The key to preventing this kind of stuff is, of course, dilution. If done consistently, regular small water exchanges can help dilute organic wastes before they ever have an opportunity to accumulate in your system. 

 

My recommendation for an easy-to-accomplish, super-beneficial water change regimen is to perform two 5% water changes per week

Really? TWICE A WEEK?

Yup.

Seriously, this is a lot easier to accomplish than you might think.

Before you pummel me with "Jungle Pods", think about it. It’s not that big of a commitment.  

You probably spend as much time checking your Twitter feed each day (well, at least I do!). We’re talking, like, five percent of your tank volume (that’s only 5 gallons in a 100 gallon tank, or just 2.5 gallons in a 50 gallon tank), performed on, say, Wednesday and Sunday. By following this routine, your aquarium is never more than 3 days from the next water exchange! Super easy.

You've got this.

However scary it sounds, it’s not a daunting task, by any means.

In fact, you can perform an efficient water exchange in less than10 minutes on a good-sized tank (Trust me here- I timed it!). That's like a long TV commercial break!

Using decidedly “low tech” methods, you can accomplish a water exchange easily with dry hands!  When I say “low tech”- I mean it! We’re talking about a length of flexible plastic hose, or a plastic pitcher- nothing more! We're just exchanging some water. 

The other side benefit of frequent small water changes is that you are more “involved” with your tank on a rather “intimate” level, on a more frequent basis. (as if that is possible!) You'll see subtle changes. You'll recognize trends, good and bad- and be able to correct bad ones before they become potential problems.

'Cause you're already in there!

Or, maybe you'll see that clutch of cichlid fry that you'd otherwise overlook if you weren't in there...Stuff like that.

And, since you’re making these little water exchanges, why not use the opportunity to inspect or replace chemical filtration media, clean/replace mechanical filter pads, etc? Little stuff.

Again, you're already there, right?

Easy.

You'll notice differences: Your fishes will display brighter colors, and seem more alert and active than you’ve seen them before!  Spawning activity often occurs after small water exchanges for some species. I've seen it dozens of times before.

 Water parameters will remain more stable, problematic algae, if present, will begin to disappear from your system, and your tank will take on a certain...something- often a visual clarity or "sparkle" that will make you sort of pause and say, "Wow!"

With this many collateral benefits, why would you blow off small frequent water exchanges? Just do 'em.

Till next time…

Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

February 12, 2016

2 comments


Thoughts on the "organic" experience of blackwater hardscape aquariums

Have you played with aquatic botanicals in your aquarium? Have you created an aquarium that features wood, leaves, and other botanicals, with minimum plants? Have you seen "the tint" imparted by these natural materials in your water?

There is something alluring about hardscapes with aquatic botanicals, wood, and rock. It's been a fascinating aesthetic to me, and I am finding more and more ways to enjoy it.

It's not a new concept to use materials like these in aquaecapes. It is, however, a new attitude towards aquascaping that we're starting see. 

Huh? Yeah, we're seeing hobbyists embrace the idea of an aquarium not as an idealized, crystal clear, pristine little world, but as an imperfect, evolving, organic one, with earthy undertones and the influence of the materials on the environment being appreciated, rather than feared. A blackwater themed, hardscape-driven aquarium with aquatic botanicals reflects, in my opinion, the natural world every bit as well as a high-concept, carefully planted "nature aquarium" does. 

Remember the Japanese concept of "wabi-sabi" we discussed a while back? Blackwater aquariums epitomize it.

Yeah.

"Blackwater" is not just an environment, it's a mood. It's also a way of looking at an aquarium and understanding and accepting the influence that natural botanical materials exert in the overall aquatic environment, just as they do in nature. Because these influences not only provide an aesthetic that's fundamentally different than others more commonly embraced in aquarium-keeping, they provide conditions which lead to natural behaviors- including reproduction- in many fishes.

 In a hardscape-driven, blackwater-themed, aquatic botanical-influenced aquarium, the interplay between the water and the environment is not just a "bonus"- it's the whole ballgame! As soon as these materials are added to the environment, they begin to soften, break down, and impart tannins and humid acids, as well as a host of  other organic material into the water column, just as in nature. Imagine, one of the natural world's most alluring aquatic environments in your home aquarium!

As an aquarist, a little bit of "faith" in the natural process and a willingness to let go of your preconceptions of exactly what an aquarium should look like is necessary. Once you free your mind of  these "prejudices", you will really begin to accept and appreciate the natural beauty of what these systems are all about.

A rich, varied, and aesthetically different experience is easily within your reach. And accepting the influence and conditions created by these natural materials will make your life as an aquarist a bit easier, in my opinion. How so, you ask?

Well, think about it. In a blackwater hardscape, you're not spending your time attempting to control or manage every process that occurs in the aquarium. Picture this: You're not constantly pruning, fertilizing, or otherwise "managing" the evolution of the environment in an attempt to preserve it in it's current state. Rather, other than selecting, placing, and occasionally replacing aquatic botanicals as needed to achieve the look and feel you want, you're allowing your aquarium to evolve on its own- freeing you to enjoy the process.

As a keeper of a blackwater aquarium, you're accepting the decomposition and natural aesthetic change that occurs as these materials break down, rather than playing "tug 'o war" with them.

We're proud to be a part of this "movement" within the hobby, following, and perhaps, to a small degree- influencing- its growth.

Leaps of faith and letting go are not themes we often associate with aquarium keeping, so it's a fundamentally different experience, a mental shift, and a completely different "vibe" when you work with a blackwater system.

We kind of think it's worth it, and we think you will, too. Give a blackwater system a try, and see where it takes you.

Stay open minded. Stay creative.

And stay wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

 

February 10, 2016

0 comments


All the leaves may be brown...but they're not all the same!

We love leaves. Specifically, leaves of the Indian Almond Tree, Terminalia catappa.

Of course, we figured that you kind of know that already.

These trees are found throughout the world, specifically in tropical locales, such as Asia, Africa, and Australia. Well, not all Catappa leaves are the same! These have an awesome story behind them!

My good friend, Jake Adams, Sr. Editor of the wildly popular marine aquarium hobby blog Reef Builders  recently spent some time on a coral farm in Raja Ampat, Indonesia, where these trees are abundant on the property.  As one of he aquarium world's most diversified and talented "watermen" (he keeps both marine and freshwater animals at a very high level), things like Catappa leaves don't escape his view. He's an obsessive aquarist, with a great appreciation for natural systems and aquatic diversity. he's also a dear friend, and knew my obsession with them as well!

He knew immediately that the Catappa trees surrounding him were fantastic, and literally bursting with those beautiful leaves that hardcore aquarists treasure so much. Apparently, aquarists aren't the only ones who enjoy these leaves! One day, while walking on the property, Jake noticed a large Black Palm Cockatoo (Probosciger aterrimus) high up in a beachside Catappa tree, busily knocking down large, fresh green leaves as it was hunting for a snack and creating a comfy perch for itself.

 

As the leaves fluttered to the ground, Jake realized that he had that rare opportunity to collect some of the freshest, most intact "Grade A" Catappa leaves possible, from the top of the tree, a location human collectors can't get to- "harvested" naturally by a busy, obliging bird! And of course, he knew that I was as obsessed with leaves as anyone, and immediately thought of me and Tannin Aquatics!

Ever the alert aquarist (and keenly aware of our obsession with these leaves), he couldn't resist collecting a nice batch of these "XL" size leaves (averaging about 8 inches in length and up to 5 inches wide!) for us and bringing them back to the States. Of course, aquarists don't utilize freshly fallen green Catappa leaves right from the tree- they need to be prepared for use. Normally, the leaves are collected after they have naturally fallen from the tree, and are a little further along the way to being ready for use. Typically, they are a darker brown or reddish-brown color when collected. This, of course, was not the case here, and Jake knew that a healthy dose of time and patience would be required to get them ready for aquarium use.

He very quickly realized that preparing Catappa leaves for aquarium use is not a simple task!  It involves careful washing and drying- and a lot of patience. You really have to be on top of things! Jake diligently tended to his batch during a time-consuming air-drying process. Jake was only a couple of weeks away from returning home when he started the process, but still took the time to do it right. Although some Catappa "experts" believe that it doesn't make a lot of difference whether or not they are sun-dried or air dried, the majority will tell you that shade-dried Catappa leaves retain most of their beneficial properties.

Jake opted for air-drying them in the shade, because a) he's an aquarist and doesn't take shortcuts, and b) he is a great lover of the "craft" of aquaristics, and knew instinctively that the time invested on that end would make a difference to the aquarists who use them. In an effort to keep them as intact and wholesome as possible, Jake carefully tended to his batch of leaves with the same reverence and diligence that a craft beer producer might give to his brew, carefully laying them out flat and turning them periodically to keep them drying slowly and evenly.

 His efforts really paid off, as these leaves were in fantastic shape upon his arrival in Los Angeles (home to Tannin Aquatics)- absolutely the most beautiful Catappa leaves I'd ever seen. There is no substitute for an aquarist collecting and preparing these leaves for other aquarists' use- and upon seeing these leaves for yourself, you'll know exactly what we mean.You can literally see the quality and imagine the amount of beneficial tannins these leaves can produce thanks to Jake's careful efforts.

A few more weeks of careful drying on our end here in L.A. rendered these leaves near-perfect and ready to use in the aquarium! Of course, we tested them on our own tanks, and were really impressed by their tannin-producing capability. It didn't take much to get a healthy tint to the water in our 50 gallon tank, requiring just ONE well-placed 8"leaf! Your results will vary, of course, depending upon a variety of factors, so you'll have to experiment. 

When we decided to offer these leaves to you, we realized that these were truly a precious and beautiful selection, and with a "limited run" of them, we would offer them in packages of 6. When they're gone, they're gone, so if you want try these magnificent specimens, grab 'em while you can! If ever there were Catappa leaves that could be called "craft made" for aquarium use- these are the ones. In fact, we're not aware of anyone ever offering aquarist-prepared Catappa leaves specifically for aquarium use before!

 

We think you'll not only appreciate the story, but you'll love the quality, value, and love that went into preparing each and every one of these Raja Ampat Premium "XL" Catappa leaves! 

 Like with any Catappa leaves, before using the leaves in your aquarium, we recommend that you  soaking them in fresh water for a few days to let them become waterlogged and to leach off some of the tannins. Then, you can place them on the bottom of your aquarium as a functional and aesthetic substrate enhancer, or place them into a filter sock and use them simply as a filter media to help foster "blackwater" conditions in your aquarium.

Regardless of how you choose to employ them, we know for a fact that you'll love these leaves, because of the quality, care, and attention to detail that was put into every aspect of their preparation. Yeas, all the leaves may be brown- but we think that you'll agree that they are definitely not all the same!

Stay dedicated, stay engaged.

And stay wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics