The Tint

Reflecting nature? The trend towards more natural approaches to breeding fishes.

As more and more people get into the idea of utilizing botanicals materials, like leaves, seed pods, etc. in their aquariums, we're seeing more and more creative applications. We're also seeing a lot of people go from tentatively adding a few things to their tanks, to starting them out with botanicals as a major "component" of the scape- part of the "theme" of the tank, itself, which is really cool.

I've noticed a definite trend, if you will, in some specialized areas of the hobby, such as the cichlid world, for example, which are really interesting. It seems that there has been a sort of mental shift from keeping cichlids in more-or-less "utilitarian", almost "sterile" setups for breeding, to aquariums that more accurately reflect the habitats from which these fishes hail from in the wild. I really like this, because we're paying greater attention to the "big picture" of their husbandry- not just feeding, water chemistry, and providing spawning locations. Instead, we're providing all of these things within the context of a more natural display...and hobbyists are getting great results...and they're enjoying their tanks even more!

I'm not saying that the bare breeding tank with a sponge filter and a flower pot is no longer the way to approach maintenance and breeding of fishes like cichlids. I am saying that I think there is a distinct advantage to the fish-and their owners- to keeping them in a setup that is more "permanent"- and more reflective of their natural environment from a physical/aesthetic standpoint.

This is not a new concept; however, I think the idea of setting up fishes permanently and caring for them and breeding them in the same tanks is a lot more popular than it used to be. My recent blog on "jungle" tanks seemed to really resonate with hobbyists, based on the tremendous discussion and sharing on social media that it generated! Now, I realize that not all fishes can be dealt with like this, for a variety of reasons. Discus, fancy guppies, etc. require more "controlled" conditions...However, do their setups have to be so starkly utilitarian all the time? 

I recall, many years ago, keeping killifish, such as Pseudoepiplatys and some Fundulopanchax, in permanent setups with lots of plants, Spanish Moss., and leaves (yeah, even back in my teens I was into 'em..). And you know what? I Would get some good spawns, and it seems like I always had some fry coming along at various stages. I am sure that some might have been consumed by the older fishes or parents along the way, but many made it through to adulthood.

I had stable breeding populations of a variety of Epiplatys species in these kinds of tanks for years. Sure, if you are raising fishes for competition, trade, etc., you'd want to remove the juveniles of controlled grow out, or perhaps search for an harvest eggs so that you could get a more even grow out of fry, but for the casual (or more than causal) hobbyist, these setups can work pretty nicely!

I've had discussions with several hobbyists who keep, or are considering keeping annual  kills, such as the South American Gnatholebias, or African Nothobranchius species- fishes which, for decades, were bred in fish bowls filled with peat moss, and then returned back to relatively bare holding aquariums for conditioning or grout. Don't get me wrong, there are advantages to that technique, and it's served hundreds of breeders well for decades.

However, it is really cool to see more and more hobbyists going the more "permanent" route, keeping fishes with the intent of breeding them in setups that perhaps provide the fishes the additional comfort of resembling their natural environments. And perhaps showing them off in such environments may spark additional interest from hobbyists who may not have given fishes such as killies, for example, more than a passing glance.

With all of the unique natural botanical materials available today fro ma variety of sources (include, of course, Tannin Aquatics!), I encourage my fellow hobbyists to consider setting up a few fishes with the intent of spawning them in permanent setups that replicate, to a greater extent than in previous years, the natural environments from where their fishes hail.

In addition for creating a more natural display, and a greater appreciation for how the fishes interacted or adapted to their natural environments over eons, attempting to set up such displays will give us a greater knowledge and appreciation for the precious natural habitats of the fishes we enjoy so much.

And understanding and appreciating these habitats will go along way towards our making greater efforts to share our knowledge of them with others- both in and outside of the hobby- to help perhaps do a better job at preserving and protecting them for future generations to enjoy.

Just a simple idea- a little mental shift- but one which has the potential to bear so much fruit in so many ways. Something to think about, at least. I'm glad many hobbyists have already begun to make this shift. The future is exciting!

Have a great weekend. Stay excited. Stay inquisitive. Stay progressive.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Turning over (yet another) new leaf...

At Tannin, a healthy obsession with this vibe of wood, leaves, and botanicals has powered what we only half-jokingly refer to as the "New Botanical" movement in aquarium keeping. "New", because, even though materials like these have been used by aquarists for decades, it was more for a "utilitarian" purpose- such as lowering pH and imparting tannins to condition fishes, and to a lesser extent, for aesthetics.

Sure, there were plenty of "blackwater" tanks intended to create an aesthetic expression, but to me, it seemed like these tank were relegated to novelty status, or aquascaping competitions. Now days, we hear more an more aquarists saying, "I'm trying to keep Apistogramma ___________, and want to create a natural-looking display around them." Environment, aesthetics, and utility all coming together. A bit different, IMHO- and I like it! It's fun to play a small role in helping this resurgence evolve!

One of the things we love about this sort of thing is discovering, experimenting with, and offering botanical items that may have been previously hard to find, or not even available to hobbyists before. It's been particularly fun to experiment with leaves. As you know, we're huge fans of replicating leaf litter banks in our aquariums, for a wide variety of reasons!

Lately, we've been playing around with some different leaves, such as Mgnolia, in addition to the more common Catappa leaves and Guava leaves. We're finding that leaves, like other aquascaping materials, each "behave" differently when submerged, imparting unique aesthetics, levels of tannins, and other benefits to the aquatic environments in which they are placed. Experimenting with these new varieties has been great fun for us!

Not too long ago, our friend, our friend, aquarist/author Sumer Tiwari, turned us on to the leaves of the Jackfruit tree (Artocarpus heterophyllus). This tree is very common in some parts of the tropical world, and the fruit and leaves have been utilized as a food and used in traditional medicines for centuries. They are particularly abundant in India, and that's where our story begins. Sumer told us how Jackfruit trees are often found overhanging rivers in India, dropping leaves into the water, and of course, imparting a brownish tint as they decompose!

They have been used by fish keepers in India to impart tannins into their aquarium water, much in the way Catappa, Guava, or other leaves are.  Sumer tells us they work great with his killies and Dwarf Cichlids! As lovers of aquatic botanicals, and leaves in particular, we were immediately interested, and were able to secure a terrific source for these unusual leaves! To our knowledge, they've not been available anywhere else for aquarium use, and we were, of course, thrilled to be able to offer them to hobbyists!

Jackfruit contains phytonutrients, such as lignans, isoflavones, and saponins that have health benefits that are wide ranging for humans. There is some conflicting data regarding jackfruit's antifungal activity. However, the leaves may exhibit a broad spectrum of antibacterial activity. In traditional medicine these leaves are used to help heal wounds as well.

Do these properties transfer over to our fishes and shrimp? We are not aware of any scientific studies that have been completed to correlate one way or another, so for now, we're content to utilize these leaves for their aesthetics- and proven ability to impart a tannin "tint" into aquarium water!

These are nicely-shaped, high quality leaves that bring a very nice "tropical" aesthetic to the aquarium, as well as that tint we love so much around here! Jackfruit leaves look amazing as part of a mixed litter bed, and is "strong enough" aesthetically to stand on its own, too! They will last a pretty long time- not quite as long as Magnolia, but longer than Catappa and Guava, in our experience. When we tested them, after one month submerged, we found them to be almost as "solid" as the day they were placed in the tank! They will recruit biofilms on their surfaces, which ornamental shrimp love to feed on- as well as consuming the leaves themselves as they soften. 

Although collected in an area that is free from pesticides or other contaminants, it's just good common sense to prep Jackfruit leaves before using in your aquarium. As with the other leaves we offer, we recommend that you rinse and/or steep them in boiling water before use, and add them gradually to your aquarium, at a rate of just a couple of leaves for each 10 U.S. gallons of aquarium capacity, so that you can gauge for yourself the impact they have on your water. Our experience shows that they have a "tint capability" somewhere in between Guava and Catappa, although your results may vary, of course.

We'll be launching these leaves this weekend, and ultimately, they will be included in our variety packs and the recently released (and amazingly popular!) "Re Leaf" pack! 

As always, Tannin will keep pushing to bring you products that are interesting, useful, and unique. And of course, we'll always be looking for items that can help bring you "the tint!"

Stay engaged. Stay "tinted." Stay curious.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Seemingly random stuff I think about during water exchanges....Seriously.

I love water exchange days.

There is something...I dunno- visceral- about doing something that you know is beneficial for your animals. It's not only a "feel good thing", it helps foster a sense of connection between man and nature. Or at the very least, it makes your tanks sparkle! 

I liken my weekly water exchanges to rain storms in the tropics. They "refresh" the waters, add new trace elements, ions, and in our case, tannins, helping to keep the environmental parameters consistent, while purging them of metabolites, impurities, and pollutants. It sort of does the same thing to my mind.

Huh?

While I'm doing my water exchanges, I am in an almost "meditative", relaxed state, which gives me the opportunity to reflect on various topics that interest me...stuff that, of course, form the basis for my rather "stream-of consciousness" blogs- like this one!

Today, I was reflecting upon the most simple of topics- one which we think about a lot, I'm sure: What our fishes eat, and how they eat in the wild.

Ever think about what your fishes eat in the wild? But beyond that, what implications do their dietary preferences have for those who want to mimic them as closely as possible?

Yeah, it's easy to say "insects and stuff" and move on, but the reality is that, even for some of the most unlikely fishes, the variety of items they consume is astonishingly diverse, and perhaps unexpected!

Of course, I had to get down and dirty and do some online research...And I found some interesting stuff. For example, one study of the gut contents of that rather well-liked characin, the Cardinal Tetra (Paracheirodon axelrodi) in it's natural habitat yielded some familiar food items, and perhaps, a few surprises:

Harpactoid copepods (you know, like the kind we use as food for marine fishes), Daphnia, Moina (another small, Daphnia-like microcrustracean), nymph larvae,  small flies of various species, partially digested ants (!). In addition to being a surprising find, the presence of ants and flies in the fishes' digestive systems confirms that they may feed from the surface in the wild, too! So those flakes we toss in are recognizable to these guys, perhaps not because they resemble food or smell good, but because these fishes will dart to the surface and feed in the wild!

What else did the study find? Rotifers, crustacean larvae, and crustacean and fish eggs (Ahh, my case for Doc's Eco Eggs, which is Capelin roe, as a supplemental food, is looking even better!)! Some filamentous algae and diatoms were also found, further bolstering the idea that although we tend to classify fishes like characins as "micro predators", they are also opportunistic ominivores to some extent, foraging for what they can in the environments in which they reside. And, then, random "detritus", including things like fish scales and such, which you could hypothesize might mean that they either pick at other fishes, or forage on dead ones...yuck.

What does all of this stuff mean for us as hobbyists? Well, I'm not saying to drop ants into your tank (although it is tempting, if not a bit vengeful). What I am saying is that a diverse menu of plant an animal material is always a good idea, and the bulk should be things like crustaceans, insect larvae (hey- bloodworms!), and even some of the live or frozen copepods, and stuff like Daphnia would make a diet that is a pretty good mimic of what they consume in the wild, right?

And maybe that old, yet annoyingly-messy-to-culture standby, the Wingless Fruit Fly, might not be a bad food source?

Another interesting thing I found in my research was that when scientists studied some Amazonian leaf litter beds, it was found that, in one study, there were like 20-plus species found in one bed of like 200 square meters- a remarkable diversity considering the rather specialized environment. And perhaps more interesting was that the bulk of the species found were feeding almost exclusively on the invertebrate life present in these liter beds, seldom straying more than one meter (!) from where they were initially captured. Talk about going where the food is!

As there are finite resources of food, even in an area as productive as a submerged leaf litter bed, and because there is such a diversity of species in such a small area, it was theorized by researchers (Henderson and Walker) that fishes have developed what they termed "refined habitat subdivision." In simple terms, this means that each species has evolved to feed on a separate resource supply to avoid "competitive deprivation" of the food sources. The prey doesn't move, either- like chironomids (an insect-like creature) that comprise a lot of the fishes' diets, remain attached to the same leaf for their entire life cycle! So you see where this is going? Each fish inhabits a spatial niche within the litter, feeding on it's own localized food supply.

Well, at least I found this interesting!

Again, what are the aquarium-level takeaways here? Well, since we can get food to our fishes regardless of what level they inhabit within our aquariums, it is entirely logical to create fish communities where the species selected inhabit different areas of the tank (okay, leaf litter bed, in my obsessive fish-geek case). So for example, a good combination of fishes in a leaf-litter-themed tank would include Apistogramma, which in nature seem to hang out at the edges of the leaf litter beds, various characins in the "middle" of it all, and fishes like Pencilfishes and Pyrulina holding station above the litter bed (I see this in my own tanks). If one could ever secure my obsession fish, the cryptic, darter-like characin, Elachocharax pulcher, they'd reside right smack in the middle of the leaf litter! Ahh..

Okay, so anyways, to wrap up this meander- you can see that feeding is just one consideration you can think about when stocking an aquarium. Not only what to feed, but where...Think about preferred feeding niches for various species in the wild when stocking. Now, granted, in an aquarium, fishes will adapt and typically  feed wherever the food is- but wouldn't it be an interesting experiment to set up a population of fishes that you know feed in different locales, and actually creating those locales for the fishes? Maybe? No? Possibly? Okay, whatever. Geeking out here...

Anyways, that's the kind of stuff I ponder while doing my water exchanges- in addition to the age-old question of wondering why my feet are getting wet if the end of the siphon hose is in the bucket....and that's another subject for another time.

So, stay contemplative. Stay curious.

And Stay Wet (except when you're siphoning water!).

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Zen and the art of blackwater maintenance..

With this obsession we have for blackwater, botanical-influenced aquariums burning in us for years, and with (apparently) an equally obsessive interest in many of you, the topic of long-term maintenance of these types of aquariums comes up more frequently. No longer a "side show" sort of aquarium, blackwater tanks are becoming just another type of aquarium we work with, and techniques for managing them are being refined continuously!

Okay, let's be clear about one thing: There really is no "magic technique" to maintaining a blackwater, botanical-influenced aquarium, other than the usual "stuff"- with a few variations. The "mantra" I practice in ANY aquarium I maintain is "SPS" ("stability promotes success") that a reef keeping friend has proffered for many years. I personally think that environmental stability is one of the most important- if not THE most important- things we can provide for our fishes. To me, it's more about doing something consistently than it is about some unusual practice.

Obviously, water exchanges are an important part of any aquarium husbandry regimen, and I favor a 20% weekly change. That may seem like a lot to some, but it's the regimen I've stuck with for decades, and it's never done me wrong. I think that with a botanical influenced aquarium, you've got a lot of biological material in there in addition to the fishes (you know, like decomposing leaves and softening seed puds- stuff like that), and even in well-managed, biologically-balanced aquarium, you still want to minimize the effects of any organics accumulating in a detrimental manner. 

This piece is not really about water changes, and frankly, you can utilize whatever schedule/precentage works for you. The 20% weekly has worked for me; you may have some other schedule/percentage. My advice: DO what works and adjust as needed. 'Nuff said.

Depending upon my "mood de jour", I may elect to keep leaves and botanicals in my system until they completely decompose. This is generally not a water-quality-affecting issue, in my experience, and is more a matter of aesthetic preferences. There are times when I enjoy seeing the leaves decompose down to nothing, and there are other times when I like a "fresher" look and replace them with new ones relatively soon.

Some individual leaves and botanicals "recruit "an inordinate amount of biofilms, which even I may find distracting (hard to believe, I know...), so I will typically remove those "offenders". Again, no harm in leaving them in; the presence of biofilms indicates the presence of beneficial bacteria just doing their thing. It's just that sometimes, you don't want them doing too much of their thing- or in a place where you have to look right at it every day! You can remove sections of it with a planting tweezer (tedious, but oddly relaxing and satisfying, I might add), or a siphon. Of course, as mentioned above, you can just yank the offending botanical right out of the tank and be done with it, too!

In my opinion, it's important to add new leaves as the old ones decompose, especially if you like a certain "tint" to your water and want to keep it consistent. Not only does adding new leaves keep the water tint (and parameters, once you dial 'em in) consistent, it also gives you a sort of different aesthetic frequently, which is similar to what you'll see in nature: newly fallen leaves replacing older ones that have decomposed. Botanical system can be very dynamic in this way!

Like many of you, I store my water in plastic containers for use during water changes. Over the years, I've sort of worked out a rough "formula", if you will, to create consistent "tint" and conditions for my makeup water. Typically, I'll add 3 medium-sized Catappa leaves to a 5 gallon container of RO/DI water. This has always given me a nice even color and a pH around 6.5-6.6, which is the range I maintain in my display aquariums.

Now, "your mileage may vary" as they say, and perhaps a different number of leaves in a different sized container works for you. Obviously there are many variables, even in as simple a practice as steeping leaves in your makeup water, like the source of the leaves and their "potency" (in regard to tannins contained in their tissues), the age and condition of the leaves, temperature, etc., etc., etc.

From a filter media standpoint, I think we've covered this before, but I am a big fan of Seachem "Renew", which is known as an "organic scavenger resin", which is formulated specifically to remove the undesirable stuff (like ammonia, nitrates, phosphates, etc.) from you water without taking out the tannins and color we work so hard to accumulate! I wrote about this stuff in detail in an edition of "The Tint" last week.

And of course, you could always use activated carbon in a botanical-influenced tank and get many of the aesthetic benefits, simply without the tint. If an organic scavenger resin is the filter media equivalent of a "smart bomb", then activated carbon is a polar opposite- as undiscriminating about what it picks up as a tourist at a cheap hotel buffet, if you know what I mean! It takes out a wide range of pollutants, discoloration, organics, trace elements, etc., etc.

Oh, and then there's that recommendation to test your water. Yeah, that's me. And you don't need to go crazy, but regular tests of pH, alkalinity are really important when you're flirting with soft, acid water systems. And checking phosphate and nitrate are never a bad thing, as they can give you an insight into trends within your system, as well as just good old-fashioned knowledge about how your system tends to operate once it settles in. Although it IS possible to have too much information (to the point where you can obsess over what are really insignificant details), it's never a bad thing to have enough to spot trends, right?

People ask a lot if blackwater tanks are tricky to maintain, given the reputation for challenges in low pH, soft water systems and the more delicate fishes traditionally associated with them (like Discus and Wild Angelfish, etc.). Honestly, I don't think they are any more "difficult" to care for than any other type of aquarium. Definitely easier than say, a Rift Lake cichlid tank- and a magnitude easier than a full-blown reef system (or coral propagation facility, as I can attest to!). Like anything else, you'll develop the techniques, skills, and systems to manage your system in a manner that works for you and your fishes- and that's really all you need to do, in my opinion!

Observation- just looking at your fishes and their aquariums- goes a long way towards success in ANY type of aquarium. With hobbyists busier than ever before, with more personal and other demands vying for attention, this obvious thing may not be as easy as it used to be- so make it a point to spend some time every day just looking at your aquarium. The insights gained from this pleasant practice are almost too great to mention. Yet, you'd be shocked at how many advanced aquarists with a lot of tanks don't do this, simply because they don't have time for it in their daily schedules. I say, make it a part of whatever daily routine you follow! Make the time- it's worth it for you- and for your livestock.

Okay, that's kind of it for now. I think we more-or-less touched on the finer points of the "art" (an it's an "art" as much as it is a science) of the maintenance of blackwater/botanical-influenced aquariums. I'm pretty sure you've developed some of your own methodologies, techniques, and ideas about this game, so feel free to share!

Stay tinted! Stay focused. Stay consistent.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

On being different.

Earlier this week, a member of our community on Facebook asked a great question. In an entirely non-confrontational way, he wanted to know what we felt makes Tannin's botanicals "superior" to those offered by other vendors, or collected by the hobbyist his/herself.

A really great question; one which got me thinking.

"Superior" is a strong word, one which you don't see me use often, if ever, when talking about Tannin's stuff. It's a claim I don't really make. A botanical is a botanical, regardless of where you get it, right? Well, perhaps.  If you asked what do I feel differentiates our products from the others out there, I'd have a more nuanced, to-the-point answer for you. What truly differentiates Tannin's offerings from the "crowd" (if there is one in this sector, lol) is the sourcing, care of selection, and curation. 

Sure, you can find catappa leaves all over E-bay and other places, and that's fine with me. You can collect some stuff we offer yourself if you're lucky enough to have a good source nearby. Look, I'm as excited about the idea of people exploring the idea of creating dynamic and exciting blackwater biotopes and environments as I am about offering the products to create them here. It's as much about concept as it is about product. I'm not trying to belittle or discourage anyone else who chooses to collect or even sell stuff like I do...I believe that we're building something more than just a place to buy stuff. We're a brand, a clearing house for ideas...a place to belong and share. A community. A vibe...a...movement?

There are a lot of things we offer that simply are not available in some parts of the country, or they are seasonal/hard to find, etc. We strive to earn your business and be a "one stop shop" for aquatic botanicals and the information on how to use them.

What also makes us "different" is that we've aggregated what we feel are some of the highest quality botanicals from sources which we have vetted, know to be conscientious, careful, and economical. We hand select every specimen to make sure our customers receive stuff we'd use in our own tanks. In fact, we use everything we sell. We don't find something that looks like it would be cool and just throw it in a bag. We make an effort to understand it. We care, we love, and we take pride in this stuff. It's our passion.

And not just that; we have extensive information about using them, preparing them, as well as ideas, experience, and honest information/thoughts about the good and bad of them (I honestly have not seen other vendors of Catappa and other natural products talk as extensively about biofilms and algae and decay and possible negatives of "overdoing" it with botanicals, for example). This is how you build long-term relationships in the hobby and business: Honest communication.

Our blog/site has what I feel is some of the best, most extensive information out there on this stuff. That's "value added", IMHO. We are fostering a community; a body of work with some of the world's most respected aquarium hobbyists, aquascapers, and industry people. Sharing ideas, enjoyment, and fun is what it's all about! One of my friends joked that we are a "content provider" who also happens to sell aquatic botanicals, and that's not really all that far from the truth.

Sure, someday in the near future, there will be another purveyor of this stuff, offering perhaps different stuff, or lower prices, or whatever. And that's okay with me. Because anyone can sell you stuff. Not everyone can create a mood, and atmosphere, a place to be. Not everyone can bring you the value of daily content, community, camaraderie, service. Every single day. And if they can- well, every one of us in the hobby can benefit.

"Superior?" Nah.

Just "different." And that's pretty much good enough for us.

Stay unique. Stay creative. Stay engaged.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

A "Mystery Molly from the Amazon?" (Well, no...But wait, there's more!)

Everyone likes a good story. Everyone has one of those fishes that, for whatever reason, capture their imagination, right?

Well, I was doing just fine until one day, in conversation, my friend Luis Navarro were talking about biofilms and the occasional algae tufts that you find on wood, pods and leaves in a botanical-influenced aquarium, and he just HAD to mention in passing something to the effect of, "Oh, by the way, Mollies love that stuff...you should find Poceilia formosa. It's called the Amazon Molly...lives in blackwater."

HELLO?  A FREAKIN' MOLLY FROM THE BLACKWATER ENVIRONMENTS OF THE AMAZON? WHAT? DID I MISS SOMETHING HERE?

Apparently, yeah.

It's not from the Amazon, despite its common name. Range is listed as "Gulf Coast from Rio Tuxpan, Mexico, north to southern Texas; possibly native to coastal portion of Nueces River and around Kingsville, Texas; certainly native to lower Rio Grande (where common); introduced in San Marcos and San Antonio rivers, Texas (Lee et al. 1980, Page and Burr 1991)."

I got suckered by the "Amazon" part right away.

Okay, not from the Amazon. I get it. However, it IS found in blackwater environments! A quick search on the venerable fishbase.org site yields this tantalizing information: 

Going slow, following instructions...Doing it right.

We love how more an more hobbyists are giving aquatic botanicals a go! We've seen some awesome tanks and some really great executions of natural-looking aquaecapes, vivariums, and aquatic features.

As hobbyists explore the potential of these cool items, it's human nature that people sometimes...push it a little bit...you know, like not following our instructions about preparation and going slowly...

I spoke to a friend a couple of days back- a pretty experienced, successful aquarist who's kept and bred a lot of fishes in his time. He was remarking about his initial experiences with aquatic botanicals, when we got to the part about preparation, he was like, "Nah...I just toss 'em in the tank..." And of course, I was sort of, well- freaked out. Apparently, that was my friends "M.O." with leaves as well ("I've always just thrown them right in..."). I was surprised that anyone- especially an aquarist of his experience- would be so nonchalant when it came to adding anything to his aquariums. It's just not good practice, IMHO.

Experience notwithstanding, it doesn't make sense to simply toss in things, regardless of who you get them from-right into your aquarium without any form of cleaning or preparation. I have used- or am currently using- every item in our collection in my own aquariums, prepare them conservatively, and I make these recommendations because one of the responsibilities of tropical fish keeping is to see that our animals are given the best possible chances for a healthy, happy existence.

We don't just find something that looks "cool", toss it in a bag, and offer it for sale. Everything we use or recommend is something that we use or do ourselves. It's poor practice at the least, and an open invitation to possible disaster at the worst-to just dump "stuff"-random or otherwise- into your tank without prep. My plea to anyone- experienced or otherwise- who works with aquatic botanicals: Please take the time to prepare them before adding to your aquatic display.

We've touched on this several times in "The Tint", yet it's so important and deserves to be repeated. These are natural items, and although we source them from suppliers we deem to be reliable and quality conscious, offer pollutant and pesticide-free materials, and inspect them visually for quality, as well as test specimens from each batch on our own systems, common sense needs to prevail when you work with them in your aquarium. There are two critical considerations that need to be made when you use these products:

1) Always follow our preparation recommendations (boiling and/or extended soaking) prior to adding botanicals to your aquariums. It's not the most enjoyable thing in the world to boil stuff and then soak it, but it's one of the best ways to a) release some of the organics, dirt, and other impurities that might be bound up in the surfaces of the botanicals, and b) helps to saturate their tissues, softening them and water logging the botanicals so that they sink more readily. 

Aquarists always wonder how much of the tannins they might "lose" through the preparation process, particularly in regards to leaves, and the answer truly is that I don't know for sure. I can tell you that most of these items will continue to release tannins over time as long as they are submerged. I suspect that the amount of tannins lost as a result of proper preparation is far less than the potential risk you expose your aquatic animals to when you don't prepare them for use.

Botanicals will gradually break down and impart tannins, humic acids, and other organics to the water which may affect pH; just how pronounced the effect is in your aquarium will depend upon a number of factors, including the starting pH and alkalinity of the water, and the number of botanicals you add to a given volume of water.

And this of course, ties in with the second consideration:

2) Always GO SLOW and add botanicals to your established aquariums gradually. Because you have a stable system, and are adding materials that can impact the water chemistry, and indeed, add to the bioload or affect water quality to some extent, it's really important to gradually add the botanicals to your system. This will give you the opportunity to gauge for yourself the impact on your water parameters that the materials impart, and to allow your fishes, biological filtration, and aesthetics to adjust to the changes. Remember, fishes don't always react well to (rapid) environmental changes. Err on the side of caution and go really slowly. What's the rush, anyways?

One of the things we've touched on before, which bares repeating is that there is a difference between the the tint that you can often expect botanical materials (leaves, wood, seed pods, etc.) to impart to the water and an impact on pH and alkalinity.  Just because the water is brown doesn't mean that you have "Orinoco-like" conditions in your tank! In most cases, botanicals will have almost no influence whatsoever on the alkalinity. However, depending on the alkalinity and other environmental factors, they can affect the pH...To what extent is hard to predict. You simply have to add the botanicals and monitor your basic water parameters after you add them to compare them to your results prior to adding the botanicals.

Maybe it's the overly-cautious reefer in me...or just the cautious way I was trained in my formative hobby years by my father, and experienced hobbyist himself, but I think that it's just common sense to follow the directions we prescribe for preparation, and to use a healthy dose of good old-fashioned patience- coupled with common sense- when using these items in your aquatic displays. Test your water regularly.

And yes, even though Tannin is not the first vendor to offer leaves and botanicals for aquatic use, we'd like to be among the first vendors to urge that you apply good principles of aquarium management when deciding to embark on a new adventure with these items. We have a ton of material about the good and bad of playing with botanicals on our site, both in this blog and in our Aquatic Botanical Preparation page. Please make use of these resources!

Why take crazy risks? Why take shortcuts? You wouldn't (shouldn't!) just toss a new fish into your established aquarium, why do it with a seed pod or leaf? There is still a bit of a learning curve for all of us with botanicals, as more and more varieties become more widely available, and the exercise of common sense, patience, coupled with the time-honored practice of sharing information- will help us all create a viable and interesting "subculture" within the aquarium hobby.

Stay patient. Stay cautious. Stay level-headed.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Cutting your own path...The igarape as an aquarium subject.

Have you ever heard of an igarape before?

It translates roughly as "canoe road" in the Hengatu dialect of the Tupi language (spoken all over the Western Amazon region), and that's just what it is: A little jungle stream that is used by indigenous people in Brazil to navigate through the rain forests in their small canoes. 

These little bodies of water flow between forest trees, and often diminish to even smaller shallow creeks during the dry season. The lighting is rather dim, as the sunlight is often partially obscured by the low, overhanging trees and vegetation. As one might guess, these little streams often have botanical materials, such as leaves, seed pods, and branches falling into them throughout the year.

And of course, as you also might imagine, we're more than just a bit interested in the biology of these little streams, and the implication for us as fish keepers! They provide a very interesting subject for us to attempt to replicate to some degree in aquariums. 

The igarapes are home to a large number of characins and Loricariidae, yet also include some fishes like Knifefishes, cichlids, and even some killifishes from the genus Rivulus as well.  If you're thinking what I'm thinking- and I'm pretty sure that you ARE- then you're already trying to figure out how to plan your next cool Amazonian-themed aquarium!

Obviously, we can take some "artistic liberties", being in this for fun and not try to be 100% biotope-centric, down to the last rock and twig. However, there are some general physical characteristics of these small streams that we can use to help us plan our little representation of them!

Water movement: Generally, a very modest current, without significant surface movement. This makes sense, because you do find a fairly large number of surface-active Hatchetfishes, like Carnegiella myersi and Carnegiella strigata in these streams, along with the aforementioned Rivulus, which tend to accumulate at or near the surface.

Lighting conditions: Rather dim, as the igarapes tend to be located deep within the forest, with little sunlight filtering down to the forest floor. You could easily get away with room ambient lighting, or maybe just a few daylight-flavored LEDs to simulate beams of sunlight penetrating the canopy. As you might suspect, there is virtually no aquatic vegetation present. Hardscape lovers, rejoice!

Water chemistry: You guessed it- soft and acidic, with pH ranging from 4.8 to 6.2 in some locations studied by scientists. There are both blackwater and "clear water" igarapes, but as you might imagine, the blackwater ones tend to be more common. High heterotrophic activity by microorganisms, bacteria, fungi, and algae tend to assimilate many of the available nutrients rather quickly. 

Leaf litter: An important part of these little streams is the abundant presence of fallen leaves from the overhanging trees. These fallen leaves contribute not only tannins and humic acids to the water, they provide much of the food sources for the aforementioned fungi, bacteria and algae present in the water. There is actually some evidence that some fishes may actually consume some of the leaf litter materials as part of their diet (Walker, 1990), in addition to detritus, insects and other small crustaceans.

Botanical materials: Of course, with all of those trees, it only makes sense that you'd find some seed pods and the aforementioned leaves in the water! I know a source for materials such as those, by the way...

As for modeling your aquarium after an igarape, you can see that these are pretty interesting biotopes to imitate! Since most of these waterways are rather shallow, I think that a shallow, wide aquarium would be cool to play with. Filtration could be via canister filter or outside power filter, with either set for minimal surface disruption. For substrate, I'd use a very fine, light-colored sand. And, as mentioned above, lighting is not a major consideration, other than for aesthetics.

It's perfectly acceptable to throw in a few pieces of cool driftwood to represent the branches and logs that occasionally find their way into these bodies of water. Minimal rock is recommended, as you don't find a ton of rocks in this environment.

Okay, about all I did here was hopefully whet your appetite, or open your eyes up to consider yet another biotope to experiment with. And that's my goal. There is a lot of good research material out there on the internet about these environments.

The opportunity for creativity and education here is pretty significant, hopefully bringing some attention to this unique environment from the Amazon!

Stay adventurous. Stay curious. Stay creative.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Keeping it clean while keeping "the tint."

A question we receive frequently around here is, "How do you keep your water 'clean', in addition to water changes, yet still keep the 'tint' you rave about some much?"

The answer is coming. But first, let's consider a couple of things.

Do you use activated carbon in your aquarium?

Long championed by those who love crystal clear water without any colors or visible impurities, activated carbon does a remarkable job removing organic compounds, acids, and in particular, two substances which accumulate in water- phenols (decidedly nasty substances), and tannins, which....whoah. Wait a minute. 

We like our tannins around here, right?

So, why would we want to use carbon?

Well, it's a bit of a conundrum, isn't it? We want some of the other benefits of carbon without what we in the "tinting" world would consider to be a drawback- the superior ability that carbon demonstrates for removing tannins! Activated carbon can increase pH slightly when new, but this is typically a temporary effect. And of course, there are times in aquarium keeping when the immediate need to improve water quality outweighs the "setback" of removing the tannins which tint our water (for example, in an emergency situation where you've overdosed the tank with something, experienced cloudy water, etc., etc.)

Other media, such as Seachem Purigen, also remove tannins, but tend not to affect the ph of the water...so if you like a lower pH environment but are not a fan of the tint (gasp!), you'd be advised to use this media in place of activated carbon. It does eventually become exhausted, and may be regenerated if desired. Better.

Still, that's not totally comforting to us lovers of "the tint"; I mean, that stuff is good. REALLY good! As you may know, we utilized both of these media during our recent "clear water" trial in our office aquarium, and are both happy and sad to report that they kept the water as "colorless as glass" during our (agonizing) two month test run!

What to do? "What do YOU use, Fellman?"

Worry not. Here's the answer.

Seachem makes another wonderful filter media which can do the trick. It's an "organic scavenger resin" called "Renew."  

"Huh, what's THAT", you ask?

"Organic scavenger resins" are polymers (resins) that react with specific by-products, impurities, or excess reagents produced in a reaction. In other words, they remove some things and not others. Perfect!  Renew will not aggressively remove tannins and humic acid. It will remove organics and particulates and will also help control ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates. Being less aggressive than carbon, it's well suited for tinted tanks and planted aquaria, because it leaves the color bodies and trace elements required by plants present! It is effective for about 30 days, after which time it needs replacement.

Ohh, interesting!

This material won't raise the pH of our water like carbon can. Renew allows for control of organics without total depletion, as with more aggressive media such as carbon, etc.  The "dose" is 250 mL for each 120–160 L (30–40 US gallons) of aquarium capacity.  For a tinted aquarium, it's the only media you need to use on a continuous basis, from my point of view. It almost looks like a an aquarium substrate to me!

So, the answer to the burning question, "What's the most useful chemical filtration media in a tannin-stained aquarium?" in my humble opinion, is Seachem Renew. I love the stuff, and I've been using it for some time. The next question is, "Will you be selling the stuff?" And the answer is, "We sure will!" Look for it on the site now as our "media of choice" for the tinted aquarium!

So, go ahead and add those leaves, throw in that wood, and a few seed pods while you're at it...and know that your tank is protected from excessive accumulation of organics by this efficient organic scavenger resin!

It's often interesting to look beyond the immediately obvious choices, and then find things that really work for us. Use of an organic scavenger resin is the ideal compromise, in my opinion, between necessary utility and aesthetic considerations!

Stay focused. Stay thoughtful. Stay open-minded.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

All the little details

I had a good fishy friend over to my house this weekend, and we were checking out tanks, talking fish...the usual stuff you expect when fish geeks get together.

My friend brought up the subject of how we obsess over our aquariums...well, deeper  than that, how, as serious aquarists, we approach our aquariums by considering every little detail. 

For example, when the subject of lighting came up, my friend, one of the best reef hobbyists I know, in addition to being an all-around "waterman", pointed out that my LED lighting in my tank was set towards a far greater blue-white spectrum than made sense for a system intended to resemble a South American stream, and that the predominant colors of my fishes were reds and browns, which are accented far more by reds and greens in the lighting program. Plus, the blue tended to wash out some of the tint in the water, much to my chagrin. So, with a few simple tweaks to the light program, we have a far more superb rendition of color than ever before. 

Details.

When you feed your fishes, you may love the convenience of frozen brine shrimp, blood worms, pellets, whatever, and tend to use that as your "exclusive" or primary food by a significant margin over other foods. Not always a good idea if you're feeding foods that are richer, fattier, and more difficult for fishes to digest. The idea of a well-rounded diet is really important, as fishes need a higher nutritional profile than we give them credit for to stay in top shape. And of course, different foods are better suited for different situations, such as when you're conditioning fishes for breeding, forcing growth, or helping your females recover after spawning. Each situation requires a different approach to feeding.

Details.

Thinking about stocking your aquarium has never been one of those "oh, I'll get to it later" sort of things for most serious hobbyists. Stocking is viewed as a make-or-break part of aquarium design and is rarely approached in a nonchalant manner. Nor should it be. Taking into account the type of system you're trying to create, and the various strata and microhabitats that your target fishes inhabit within the system is vital to creating a successful, healthy, interesting system in the long term. A lot of "old timers" in the hobby will tell you that many great aquariums are indeed great because they take into account the environment within the aquarium for stocking, "optimizing", if you will, available niches within the system by selecting appropriate animals.

Details.

I mean, there are so many things that you can approach in this manner...and to many, this level of attention is not tedious, obligatory, or stressful. It's simply the way to create maximum enjoyment from your hobby.

I can't tell you how much I've learned about seemingly obscure and unimportant aspects of the hobby by delving into greater detail when setting up my system, only to realize that the benefits I've reaped from this process are far, far greater than I could have imagined.

So the next time you're looking at something seemingly as "pedestrian" as two or three different filter media, take a moment to consider and reflect upon what each can bring to the table for your specific needs. Think beyond the marketing hyperbole; the hobby "hype", and consider how this stuff fits into your system. You might just find yourself making some seemingly surprising decisions when you approach these types of things from the standpoint of "why should I go with this particular one" as opposed to "I need some carbon"- or whatever.

Details. 

They're not just mundane. They're not for getting "lost" in.

Details can help you create something truly special, and can make the difference between a good aquarium and a really phenomenal one.

So, roll up those sleeves, pull up a chair, and ponder a bit.

Stay engaged in the process, engrossed in the fun...

And Stay Wet

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics