The Tint

The essentials...

A lot of hobbyists ask me what kind of "stuff" they need to create a botanical-style, blackwater aquarium (beyond the aquarium, heater and the botanicals, of course!), and it's something I've never really discussed or dwelled on much, so perhaps it's a worthwhile discussion to have!

Quite honestly, my botanical tanks are very simply equipped. The important thing is to have a proper filter- one which has the ability to hold both chemical and mechanical filtration media...which is pretty much every filter out there that's not a sponge, right? And the mechanical media is important, because you may have some "micro-debris" in your system for a while, especially after you just start, because there are lots of little bits and pieces of botanicals "flaking off" into the water column, as they settle in to a submerged existence.

It's important to especially use a good "pre filter" sponge or other material to accomplish this, and clean it or replace it very frequently, so that it doesn't clog your filter. Even the "fines" from botanicals will accumulate, almost like silt from potting soil, and can impede flow if not attended to in your filter. I am a big fan of sponge-type media for this purpose, because they're inexpensive, easy to clean, and absorb a lot of material. Of course, if you like floss or fiber material, have at it. I'm personally not a fan of the "ceramic noodle"-type filter media, because it's too much effort to clean, IMHO, and tends to clog easily...and it often doesn't "hold on" to the fine materials that it absorbs. And back to the "easy to clean" thing: Human nature (and knowing myself well, lol) is that we tend to take care of stuff more frequently if it's easy to work with...so the sponges work great for me!

Now, a lot of you might be surprised to know that I employ chemical filtration media on a full-time basis in my tanks. Specifically, I use activated carbon in small quantities, and/or chemical media like Poly Filter. I really like Poly Filter because it has an affinity for volatile organics, and provides an extra measure of "insurance" for my tanks, particularly when they're new, or if I get a bit too "exuberant" adding more botanicals or fishes! Now, I know the first thought is, "Won't that defeat the purpose and remove all of those beneficial tannins and the tint from the water?" And my answer, is that if used judiciously, you won't see any real significant reduction of the tint...trust me on that!

The other piece of equipment that I've played with several times is a fluidized reactor. I love reactors, because they're sort of an "empty canvass" that you can do all sorts of stuff with...Yeah, probably the reefer in me, but I love 'em! You can fill them with botanical materials, like "Mixed Leaf Media", Alder/Birch/Casuarina cones, "Mariposa Pods", and just about any botanicals you can think of. Reactors are also great in instances where you want the "effects and benefits" (like the brown tint or the addition of humic substances), but don't want/need their physical presence in the tank (examples would be a densely planted tank or a breeding tank that you want free from anything but the spawning mop or cone, etc.).

The final piece of equipment that I consider almost essential, at least for me- is the use of an auto tipoff system. Now I know, most of you are like, "Fellman, aren't you the anti-automation guy?" And my answer is, "I'm the 'anti-automation-to-do-the-regualr-work-that-you-should-be-doing-yourself' guy" (that's a mouthful!). An automated topoff system is great because you can set a defined water level in your tan and the system will keep it there. Stable water level means stable water chemistry in most cases, and less potential to "fall behind." Now, this is perhaps more important for me, because I run open-top aquariums, and I live in a fairly dry climate (Los Angeles). And it is a real lifesaver in reef and brackish water systems where maintaining a constant specific gravity is really important. However, I think they're a great piece of equipment for any hobbyist who wants the type of stability that a well-set-up system can bring. 

My "ATO" of choice is the "Smart ATO Micro", which relies on an LED sensor to monitor the water level in your tank, which activates a tiny pump when the sensor is not submerged and injects just enough fresh water into the tank to keep the level constant. The only real maintenance on this system is to keep the sensor clean (just wipe it down once in a while) and to refill the reservoir that holds your top-off water. I love this device! I had my buddy Marc Levenson of Melev's Reef (http://www.melevsreef.com) build me custom reservoirs for my tanks to fit underneath their stands.  (In addition to being one of the reef hobby's great personalities, he builds great stuff and his site is filled with amazing information!) 

The final "essential" that I think EVERY hobbyist needs is...patience. Ridiculous amounts of patience. The kind of patience that encourages you to refrain from adding a ton of fishes right after you set up your tank. The kind of patience that compels you to add botanical gradually, and to wait it out as the water tints, the biofilms wax and wane, and the tank "breaks in." It's the single most valuable, most useful "essential" there is, IMHO.

Sure, there are probably some other pieces of equipment you can employ, but these are the ones I feel are most important. Of course, there are differences of opinion, and at lest a thousand different ways to do everything in this hobby, and I'd love to hear about and discuss yours!

Stay patient. Stay engaged. Stay smart!

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Baby tint tanks...The early days of the Blackwater/Botanical-Style Aquarium

I'm kind of curious about how everyone manages the "startup" and early days of their botanical-style, blackwater aquariums. It's a topic that we touch on, but I think that, with some many people getting onto the game, it's a great subject to keep an open dialogue about!

Our friend, Mike Tuccinardi, shared a pic of his latest blackwater tank, right out of the "incubator", settling in after its initial "botanical loading"- and the pic got me thinking about this process anew.

When you first start a brand new blackwater aquarium, there is a significant amount of botanical material placed in there. No doubt, you've been beaten over the head (quite literally, actually) to prepare everything by boiling/steeping/soaking before adding it to your aquarium.

Regardless, And that will often yield a very darkly-tinted tank right off the bat, or at least a few days after it was set up.

A lot of people ask me what I do with brand new tanks, in terms of "dealing" with the tinted water if it's "too much." That usually makes me smile, because I kind of know what they mean. You probably do, too: The water is so dark, you can't see from one end of the tank to another- that sort of thing!

Now, we're talking initially about aesthetics. Remember, just because the water is really dark doesn't mean the pH is 3.9 or something low like that. In fact, I've seen a number of tanks where we started out with neutral or mildly alkaline water, added some stuff, and the pH only varied from the water that came out of the tap by a couple of points.  Visual cues are not necessarily helpful in determining the alkalinity and pH of our tank water!

I've gotten a lot more into measuring TDS as opposed to just pH in my botanical tanks, and the insights and trends are yielding some interesting results.

For my source water, I use RO/DI water with a starting TDS reading of 0, and once it's added to the aquarium, you'll actually notice a bit of an increase in many cases. And this makes sense, I think. For example, my "V.2.0" office aquarium started with pure RO/DI water, with TDS of zero and pH of 6.70 out of the unit. When we added substrate, wood, leaves, and botanicals, the TDS rose to a high of 24, then dropped over the course of about 2-3 weeks to its "operating level" of about 20, which has trended down since. Now, we did do some water changes over that span of time, so it would only make sense, because you're "diluting" whatever is in the water affecting TDS. However, like everything else in aquarium keeping, consistency over time seems to drive results in a botanical-style aquarium as well.

And speaking of water changes, I'm personally very religious about a weekly 20% water change in my tanks. I'm not sure, quite honestly, how I arrived at 20% instead of the more popular 10% water change! I think it was one of those things that developed early on in my fish keeping years, and especially in my reef-keeping days when I was like. "If 10% a week is considered good, 20% must be better!!!" Of course, that's a sweeping generalization,  as there might be some situations (for example, with really touchy fishes) where you wouldn't want to change 20%, but it's one of those things that just sort of "works" for me, so it became a habit over the decades! 

The other thing I tend to do with new tinted tanks is...wait. Yeah, I don't rush anything. I give the tank at least two weeks to start settling in before I even think of cycling the tank. It's personal preference, but I find that the "shakedown period" give you the opportunity to really make sure that everything is good to go before you start on all of the exciting stuff that comes next.

One of the things I've noticed about my botanical, blackwater aquariums is that they "cycle" very quickly, and that over time, I've found nitrate accumulation to be almost nonexistent. Now, I don't know if that's something which you've noticed, too? I simply have never seen a nitrate accumulation more than 0.2mg/L!

Despite what I hypothesized over the years, when I really got into blackwater, botanical-style aquariums, I found little to no detectible nitrate, despite utilizing a lot of botanical material within the tank that was breaking down. I would have thought, at least on the surface, that there would be some detectible nitrate. Now, this is interesting, but I'm not the only one who has reported this. Many of you have. My hypothesis is that, yes, the material is breaking down, and contributing to the biological "load" of the system- but with an abundance of microorganisms living in, on, and among the botanical materials in the aquarium, and with regular frequent water changes, there is a very efficient processing of nutrients occurring. This is purely speculation on my part, but I think it's as good a guess as any, based on the repeated similar results I've achieved in every single blackwater/botanical-style aquarium I've kept for the last 7 or 8 years!

I'm sure that a more sophisticated explanation, revolving around the presence of "on- board carbon sources" and other biological processes is the reason. I think that we're sort of looking at a freshwater equivalent of a reef aquarium in many respects, where, instead of "live rock", a lot of the microbial population and biological processes occur within the botanicals themselves. Almost like "biopellets" in a reef tank, perhaps the botanicals are not only a carbon source for beneficial bacteria- they're also a sort of biological filtration "substrate" for them to colonize on. Again, speculative, and needing some more rigorous scientific investigation to verify one way or another, but it's been my working hypothesis for several years.

In my opinion, once they get through the initial startup phase, blackwater/botanical-style systems seem to run incredibly smoothly and in a very stable manner. If you adhere to a regular, yet simple maintenance schedule, obey the long-established common-sense "rules" of aquarium husbandry, and don't go crazy with radical overstocking or trying to speed up things too much by dumping tons of botanicals into your tank in a brief span of time, these systems run almost predictably, IMHO.

Yeah, you'll see stuff like decomposition and often, biofilms, the likes of which might horrify the uninitiated- but when these are understood to be a natural and indeed, beneficial part of the little ecosystem you've created, you'll further appreciate the stability of a well-managed blackwater/botanical-style aquarium!

The early weeks and months in the aquarium's life cycle really set the tone, in my opinion, for how the tank is likely to function over time. I am a big believer in stability, and deploying patience, using time-honored nutrient control/export techniques, and applying a healthy dose of observation and common sense all contribute to the ultimate stability and success of our blackwater/botanical-style aquariums just as they would to any other type of system.

The only real difference is that our water is a bit, well, "more colorful", right?

Let's hear your thoughts on the "startup" and early management of your botanical-influenced aquariums! 

Until next time...

Stay "tinted." Stay observant. Stay consistent.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin nAquaitcs 

What every "Tinter" knows: "Active Management" and the Botanical-Style Blackwater Aquarium

With the blackwater/botanical-style aquarium "movement" full swing right now, were seeing more and more applications of botanicals in a variety of systems. And with the idea of adding botanicals to our aquariums, we've seen a wonderful development of "technique."  

I like to call it "active management", and I think this term describes very accurately how we operate our systems. It's a process that keeps our systems interesting, engaging, and dynamic.

We sort of all know this already, but it never really is something you think about consciously until one day, after your tank has been in operation for quite a while, you might reflect back to when you started it and how much it's evolved...

It starts literally from the beginning, and is a practice we engage in throughout the lifetime of the aquarium.

When we set up a new blackwater aquarium, we typically will add a "starting dose" of leaves, botanical, or other materials which influence the water chemistry and aesthetic appearance of the aquarium. Once the system is stabilized, cycles and begins to be populated, the real fun begins!

As we all surmise, leaves and botanicals simply don't last indefinitely; they begin to soften and decompose shortly after they're added to the aquarium. Depending upon the particular botanical in question, they can last from a few weeks (as in the case of Catappa leaves, for example) to many months (the "harder" pods, like "Savu Pods", Jungle Pods', "Ceu Fruta", etc.). And of course, that means that we need to accept the idea that most botanicals are "consumables" for all intents and purposes, much like activated carbon, filter pads, etc.- and need periodic replacement.

Leaves, for example, should be "topped off" regularly to keep not only the desired "tint" and environmental parameters (pH or TDS, really, but nitrate might be a factor for some tanks) in a tight range, but to keep the aesthetics of the aquarium where you want them. As in a real tropical stream or other body of water, as materials decompose or wash downstream, the physical appearance" and other characteristics, like water movement, etc. will change over time. And the fishes will adapt, too- finding new "territories", spawning sites, and feeding locations. These are very natural behaviors which you just won't see in a more traditional "static" aquascape. 

By regularly replacing the botanical materials in your aquarium, you're constantly "evolving" or "editing" the habitat, creating a truly dynamic display for your fishes. And if you look at your blackwater/botanical-style aquarium over several months or longer, for example, you'll see this clearly. Now, nature does a certain percentage of this for us, because, as mentioned above- stuff decomposes, softens, breaks down, etc. And this results in subtle (or not-so-subtle) changes over time, wether we intervene or not.

Sure, the basic "structure" of the aquascape will likely be the same- but the smaller-scale "niches" within the tank, as well as the colors, textures and "negative space" within the habitat will vary and "evolve." Similar, in some respects to a planted aquarium, a botanical system can be "pruned" to keep a rough "form", yet it will evolve in subtle ways on it's own, despite our interventions. This is true in vivariums as well!

I've noticed some interesting things in my own aquariums, such as a slight downward trend in TDS the longer my tanks are established, even when I'm doing "top-offs" of botanicals. The TDS, which for a very long time was around  22-24, seems to have stabilized in one my tanks at around 19 for the past four or five moths...Has the system hit it's own "stride" and established some kind of "operational equilibrium", or is there some other factor involved? Just one of the many things that is part of the ongoing educational process for me!

Nonetheless, "active management" is one of the more enjoyable aspects of running a botanical-style aquarium. And it's a very personal practice, because you can even do subtle "edits" on the system- like adding more or less of a given leaf or botanical, or going longer or shorter between "topoffs" or replacements of the materials- and achieve different effects both environmentally and aesthetically.

You might make "seasonal" changes, or vary other aspects, such as flow or lighting, to compliment the addition and removal/replacement of botanical materials in your aquarium...you could add more materials just before your fishes spawn, or shortly afterwards to provide more cover and foraging opportunities for fry, etc. The possibilities are endless.

It's a fascinating, engaging process- simple in its application, yet significant in it's impact. "Active management" is one of the fascinating areas in which our "tint community" can contribute meaningful data to the ever-evolving "body of work" on natural aquarium design, construction, and operation. 

What new discoveries lie ahead? What things have you learned thus far? And how will what we've learned affect the "bigger picture" of aquarium practice? 

It's an evolving, always-fascinating, completely engaging art- and we're excited to see some many of you making incredible contributions to the hobby we all love so much!

Stay creative. Stay diligent. Stay observant. Stay innovative.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

We can do better...

I saw a couple of large Jaguar cichlids (Parachromis managuensis) in a 75- gallon tank the other day at the home of a fish geek who was a friend of a friend. The fish looked kind of cramped..They were not able to turn around that easily...it looked really uncomfortable. Like living in a motorhome for an indefinite sentence.

And when I asked what the story was, I was told that the fish were going to go into a 500 gallon South American cichlid tank..."eventually."

Someday.

I asked how long the aquarist had the fishes, and I was told, "Like a year or so..."

And the 500-gallon tank? When was that happening?

"Maybe in a couple of years..."

Urghh...

If you've been keeping tropical fishes and aquariums long enough, you really learn to ferret out statements that come across more as wishful thinking than definitive plans, right?

That's how this seemed.

I probably won't be asked back in the future, lol.

This is probably the ONE thing that I hate the most that we as fish geeks seem to do, because it's so easy NOT to do.

I mean, maybe it's a sort of "human nature" thing, or an attempt at "willing something into reality by stating it out loud", but it seems to me that there are certain things we say to each other as fish geeks that are sort of built-in "pardons" or justifications for our current (often not-so-prudent) actions. 

Huh?

Well, think of how many times you've heard variations of that classic fish geek "thing" touched on above:

(Typically stated by the hobbyist who just purchased a young Arowanna or big cichlid or other fish that will reach a huge size, when asked about their long-term plans for the fish that was just added to a 40 breeder):

"Oh, this is just for a while. I'm getting a larger tank in a few months. He's happy in there."

I mean, on the surface, it really seems sincere enough. The hobbyist found that young specimen of the iconic "monster fish" they've been dreaming of for years..You know, the one that will be the "crown jewel"- the star- of the 750-gallon tank that they're going to build "in the future." 

That's the plan.

Now, I understand, a huge tank for your dream monster fish is a considerable investment; one which costs a LOT of money, takes time to build...one which you need to save for. One which you may not even have room for in your current house (I've actually heard this before) but will get "in a year or two" when you "start looking" for the next house...

And you are providing great care for your future "superstars"- With the exception of the fact that they're just...well, crowded...

That doesn't map with your other behaviors/goals/aspirations/values as a fish keeper. Sorry- it just doesn't.  "Storing" a fish in an undersized tank, despite a great filter or good food, does not constitute "great care" IMHO.

Why sugar coat it?

Stuff like this- making a current fish purchasing decision based on circumstances or expectations of things which have not yet happened- is just not logical in my opinion. I can't stand it, actually. It's just not cool. And it's resulted in a lot of fishes living a lot of years in less-than-optimum conditions...even resulted in some deaths. At the very least, some unnecessary discomfort for the fishes in question.

Physical space is really important for larger fishes...

Yeah, this practice of "buying for the future scenario" is not comparable to prudent decisions made to impact potential future issues, like insurance or like something that you do "just in case", with the expectation that some future circumstances validating it as a good decision will just sort of "happen."

It's more of a "I want what I want and I want it NOW!" thing, IMHO.

Don't do that anymore. Please. We can do better.

The other excuses are "He's only 5 inches now- he'll be fine for a couple of years in this tank. They don't grow that fast...." Or, "This tank is really well-equipped and he gets spoiled with all of the good food in there..." Blah, blah, blah.

Lame excuse. Maybe it's also a good idea for you to confine yourself to the living room of your home for the next couple of years. I mean, you have a great couch, Netflix, and all of the frozen pizza you can eat, right? You'll be fine for "a while", huh? Would that work for you?

I know, I'm being "judgmental" or whatever. But it's true. It's one of the very few things I hate that we do. I've done it before myself, so it hits home.

It's a bad practice. And it's really common.

Who am I to judge, right? Well, probably no one...but as someone who has been keeping fish since he was a toddler, and has spent time in the importing/aquaculture side of the hobby, I've heard the argument from armchair environmentalists that the aquarium hobby "rapes and pillages" fishes and disrespects the environment, etc. And you no doubt have, too. So...when I see behaviors which map or track these often unfair assertions by those who would happily see our hobby shut down and attack us with inaccurate "facts" (yeah, check out "For the Fishes" and "Snorkel Bob" in Hawaii, for example), it strikes a reactionary chord in me. We need to do stuff better.

And it's just kind of cruel.

Sure, there are all kinds of thing we do as hobbyists that could fall into the above category, and lots of things that are harder to change. I know I can do better on a lot of stuff, too.  I think why I jump on the "monster fish/undersized tank" thing so aggressively and passionately is that it's one of the easier ones to control, IMHO:

Just don't purchase the jumbo-sized fish until you have the jumbo-sized tank for them to live out their lives in.

Just...DON"T.

We can all do better.

We have to.

Super easy. End of rant. 

Thanks for indulging me!

Stay bold. Stay honest. Stay strong.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquaitcs 

GUEST BLOG: Lake Shells...by The Lake Shore By Christopher Carpenter

Editor's note: This was in interesting blog written by fellow fish geek Christopher Carpenter, who works a lot with shell-dwelling cichlids from Lake Tanganyika. Christopher and I have had several discussions about the elusive (in the trade) Neothauma shells and the fishes which reside in them, and next thing you know, this interesting piece arose! Enjoy! -S.F.

My fascination with Lake Tanganyika, and its cichlids started early on in my journey into the aquarium hobby. Many of the cichlids have one-of-a-kind behaviors and appearances. The lake itself holds many wonders. One of its distinct features is the unusual water chemistry. For a freshwater lake, it has an extremely high pH, and high mineral content, leading to a unique phenomenon: “The shell beds of Lake Tanganyika”. Snail shells wash into the shallows, where they’ve collected for thousands of years, creating piles of shells, miles long, and anywhere from 10-30 ft. deep. In any other lake, these shells would slowly dissolve, but in Lake Tanganyika they become harder, and encrusted with calcium.

A distinct feature of cichlids is their ability to adapt, and many cichlids in Lake Tanganyika have adapted to call these shells “home” using them for shelter, and spawning sites. These fish are affectionately referred to as “shell dwellers” or “shellies” for short. Most often the shell of choice is that of Neothauma tanganyisence, because it is the largest mollusk in the lake. To use a snail shell as shelter, obviously, the fish must be small, and most “shellies” are very small. In fact, ‘Lamprologus’ multifasciatus, and ‘L.’ similis are tied for the title of smallest cichlid in the world, with females averaging just over 1” (2.54cm).  Don’t however mistake their diminutive size for a lack of strength or courage. In the National Geographic movie titled “Lake Tanganyika, Jewel of the Rift” a ‘L.’ multifasciatus can be seen biting the tail of a crocodile. I’ve had my hand attacked numerous times by various “shell dwellers”.

Many of the “shell dwellers” have found their own way to take advantage of these vast shell beds. ‘Lamprologus’ brevis for instance has found a way to reside in areas that have fewer shells, by male, and female sharing the same shell.  Telmatochromis temporalis has developed two distinct morphs, varying in size by the availability of rocks, or shells. Telmatochromis temporalis males average 4” (10.16cm), females 3” (7.62cm) while T. temporalis “shell” males reach approximately 3” (7.62cm), and females stay about 2” (5.08cm). ‘Lamprologus’ callipterus is quite possibly the most fascinating of all the “shellies”. In this species only the females are small enough to use the shells. Males can reach over 6” (15.24cm) in length while females stay close to 2” (5.08cm). Males need to be large to protect their territory, but they also use their size to steal shells from other males, often with females still inside the shell. ‘L.’ callipterus holds the title for “Male larger sexual dimorphism not only among fish- but across the entire animal kingdom.” Males typically weigh thirteen times more than females!

If you’re a stickler for a natural-looking aquarium, trying to use décor that the fish would see in their natural habitat, then you’ll want to know where to find Neothauma shells...Good luck! I found a dozen  specimens a few years ago, but they’re so small my fish ignore them.

Editor's note: We have a few specimens (the ones shown above)...and they're incredibly delicate...and quite small...and really expensive! -S.F.

The reason they are so hard to acquire, could be a couple reasons. One possible reason is that freshwater snails can carry “Schistosomiasis” also known as “Snail Fever”, a parasitic worm that can infect humans. The other probable reason is that the filter feeding Neothauma snail is at risk due to sedimentation. Deforestation along the shorelines has caused substantial amounts of sand, and silt to accumulate. Thankfully, there are many other shell options to choose from, including, Escargot, and Turbo snail shells.

If you’ve ever thought of keeping any of the many species of “shell dwellers”, I greatly encourage you to take the leap. If your lucky enough to find Neothauma tangayisence shells for them to reside in, just know I’m jealous. If you went to Lake Tanganyika to collect the shells yourself, know that I’m extremely envious, and wondering “Why in the world you didn’t invite me?”

Christopher Carpenter

The "movement"...evolved

You might not realize this, but it's been just over two years since we've began our existence! During that brief time, we've seen quite an evolution in this sector of the hobby, from obscure "novelty" to genuine "movement" within the hobby.

I've been fascinated lately by the many different approaches that our customers are taking to blackwater/botanical-style aquariums. It's happening on multiple "fronts", with hobbyists dabbling with botanicals who are breeding fishes, shrimp, etc. Some are working on "converting" planted tanks to "tinted planted tanks".

Others are trying their hand at replicating very specific biotopes (or facsimiles thereof) for different types of fishes...some are just digging the aesthetic and are playing with new aquascapes incorporating botanicals and blackwater. Our rapidly expanding community is really a microcosm of the aquarium hobby as a whole, and it couldn't be more interesting to see!

What is really fascinating to me as that you guys (yeah, YOU!) are far more into the "software" (fishes, plants. environment) of your systems than the "hardware" (filters, tanks, gadgets, etc.). To many of you, the tank and filter and such- important though they are- are merely a "canvass" upon which you draw...a means to an end. Yes, due consideration is paid to having good equipment, but it seems to me that the types of hobbyists we work with could be just as happy with a plastic sweater box for an aquarium as they would with a 5-gallon glass tank! Okay, that might be a bit of an exaggeration, but you get the idea!

As I've mentioned before, this is a sharp contrast from the world that I came from previously, where hardware, gadgets, additives, and equipment were almost as popular as the fishes and corals. I mean, the intentions of most of the reef "gadgeteers" are good- they want to keep stuff healthy- but the emphasis is that "this__________" is the way to do it, rather than looking at things from a technique point of view... It's incredible to see so many hobbyists with some many cool ideas pushing the envelope of technique!

I'm also excited to see a terrific interest in the natural habitats from which our fishes came, and to have more an more of you ask about which botanical items would be most similar to those found in the natural habitat of ________________. This is great, because it means we're taking an even deeper interest in our fishes and where they come from, and attempting to understand how and why the habitats from which they evolved influence them from a physiological standpoint.

Despite the fact that many of the fishes we work with are now captive bred for generations, much effort is being made to provide them with environmental conditions they evolved from over eons, versus aquarium conditions they were adapted to for a a few dozen generations!

We've spent a lot of time discussing "evolved" botanical concepts, like they idea of the "deep botanical bed" that we looked at yesterday, and what's really cool is that there is a tremendous amount of experimentation going on with this within our global community.

One of the things I've been particularly interested in is the experiments that some of you are doing with recreating "food webs"- or more precisely, "in-situ self-perpetuating food sources" in your aquariums! I know our friends Mike Bognich and Craig Thoreson have done some very interesting experiments in this area, along with several others, and it will be interesting to see how this evolves! Long term botanical-stye aquatic microcosms with "on board" supplemental food sources is a very exciting area of the hobby,  to which we can all contribute! 

Those of you working with frogs and herps have been an amazing source of inspiration to all of us, and the "crossover" potential of the things you're doing is tremendous. And the results of your hard work have been incredibly inspiring!

And we've seen an incredible increase in "birth announcements" from our community- spawning events shortly after their aquariums were "reconfigured" with botanical materials! Now, we're always skeptical of "anecdotal" inferences about stuff like that, but the sheer volume of spawning reports which occurred shortly after a transition to a blackwater/botanical-style environment was made has to make us wonder if it's more than just the fact that "any old change" was made to the environment, and that it's the kind of change that was made which had some influence over the event? What do you think?  "The jury is still out on this one", as they say...

 I'm kind of wondering what the next "evolutions" of our blackwater/botanical movement will be. Will they be further refinements of stuff we're doing already, or entirely new directions? Will you be trying to breed fishes that were previously seldom bred? Rearing fry in specialized botanical-oriented systems? Evolving the concept of a "freshwater refugium" using botanicals to the process? That's an area in which I'd like to see more work being done! Lots of potential there!

The important thing for us at Tannin is to keep the creative energy flowing into and among our community, and that starts with offering new stuff, new ideas, and new ways of thinking to sort of "disrupt"- or at least- question- the way we've done some things for many years. Some may resonate. Some may confuse. Some may even repel- or at least frighten. Yet all will stimulate some thought; some discussion..and hopefully, some cool executions of aquatic displays! 

I think that we'll start seeing some interesting developments in the previously "staid" and rather predictable world of brackish aquariums. With some specialized botanical items and such soon to be made available via our "Estuary" product line, you'll have the materials you need to create some potentially "game changing" brackish aquariums, too!

And we'll keep providing the inspiration, with some new aquariums and videos highlighting our brackish approach as well! We will do what we did in blackwater- learn...together...while inspiring each other to try new stuff; to push new boundaries.

And wherever we as hobbyists go; whatever new stuff we try-one thing is certain:  We will share. We'll share our successes, our failures, our struggles...Our progress. For the benefit of the entire aquatic community.

What new ideas are you working with? What secrets are you trying to unlock? What boundaries are you pushing? And most important- How can we help?

Stay excited. Stay creative. Stay motivated. Stay curious. 

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Musings on the "botanical influence" in our tanks...

If you've been reading my blogs here, you know that I've discussed the idea of creating a really deep litter/botanical bed in an aquarium for the last few months, to more accurately replicate some of the litter beds found in South America and elsewhere. And a number of you have really jumped on the idea, too. Oh, by "deep", I'm talking 6"- 12" (15.24cm-30.48cm). Yes, there are deeper litter beds in these areas (several feet in depth); however, for practical aquarium display purposes, I think the rational "upper limit" is more like the 12" (30.48cm) range. Or is it?

There seems little doubt that the abundance of leaf litter in the tropical environments that we're obsessed with replicating in our aquariums have profound impact on the variety and life cycle of tropical fishes, so it's been an irresistible subject for us to play with.

And, although the mass of leaves would be considered "bioload", I can't help but wonder if it we're seeing these deep botanical beds and dense botanical/hardscape "matrixes" function as a nutrient processing facility, much in the same way a deep sand bed does in a reef aquarium? I mean, with that much "media" surface area, could this be the case?

We've seen bold adventurers, like JT Martin, create beautiful and functional aquariums by "going deep"- and there certainly have been some discoveries- and challenges- along the way! We definitely are getting a larger body of work from which to create a  hypothesis as more and more of you play with "botanical bottoms!"

We've learned to add materials gradually- or, at the very least, to allow the system time to adjust to our "introductions" of new leaves and other botanical materials, as a rapid, large influx of botanicals can affect things like dissolved oxygen levels and such, which certainly affect our fishes!

I've thought a lot about TDS lately. Using RO/DI water and having a huge component of tannin-and-humic-substance-producing leaf materials would certainly have an influence on the TDS. I know personally that you will see interesting TDS readings after adding botanicals. My water starts at 0 TDS (pure RO/DI) right out of the unit. I haven't been "remineralizing" it. In my the aquarium, the TDS level rose initially when I set up the tank  to about 24, until ultimately "stabilizing" itself at about 20. It's been "pinned" there ever since. I have always been a "gradual adder" of botanicals, so I don't see much deviation from these values...but the trend is interesting. Curious about your experiences with TDS.

Water movement is something I don't think we, as botanical/blackwater enthusiasts, can take for granted. As a reef aquarist, I came to understand that water movement is as important a part of the equation as components such as light and feeding, and I feel it's vital to freshwater fishes as well, particularly in heavily-botanical-laden systems. Large quantities of decomposing botanical materials have some oxygen demand on the system, and when you add a large influx of materials in a relatively short span of time, there's bound to be some significant affect on the environment.

To help positively impact the environment in botanical tanks, water movement is really important, as it will prevent areas of stagnation, low oxygen, and perhaps pH "striation", with areas of less movement having extreme pH levels (on the low side). Surface disruption is important, IMHO.  Your fishes will let you know if you've pushed it to far, as those of us who have can attest!

On the other hand, fishes might be able to adapt to it. Indeed, a study I read (Walker, et al) on deep leaf litter beds in the Amazon region found that "Several...species show adaptations for living under low oxygen conditions, which possibly allow them to occupy confined spaces inside the banks."  I'd like to see more bottom-dwelling fishes (like Crenuchus, Elachocharax, and various catfishes) that are known to inhabit the litter beds. In fact, I'd like to see a dedicated leaf-litter-bed fish aquarium!  

And of course, there is the "practicality" component:  Maintenance.  Now, we all understand the value of water changes, and I am a huge proponent of them. Just how much to change, and where to siphon is of interest to me. I can't help but play "devil's advocate" at times, and consider this:  With a lot of leaf material breaking down, and possibly trapping detritus and other organic materials (gross particulate matter, mainly), will siphoning out the decomposing leaf material be the best approach, or are the deeper layers best left undisturbed? I've always sort of done a light siphoning of the surface laters of my "botanical bed", removing any visible offensive detritus or debris that I don't want in the tank, and this practice has served me well.

You had us all the time tell you to consider leaves as "consumables", much like carbon or filter media- requiring regular replacement. I personally think that it's advisable to keep replacing leaves on a more frequent basis to keep things sort of stable. In a really deep botanical bed, I wonder if there is any stability difference when you approach a foot of depth in an aquarium? Something we'll just have to see, I suppose, as more of you play with the concept of deeper beds. It will also be useful to note if different materials are more functional than others for such applications.

We definitely need to track environmental parameters and note the overall function and dynamic of our deep botanical-bed systems over the long haul, as this can yield valuable information and inspire others to try new experiments themselves!

As we play with more and more new ideas, and gain greater confidence and understanding, it's fun to see the cool things everyone is playing with. What exotic, unusual, or otherwise seldom-attempted aquariums are you contemplating? And what challenges or questions do you ponder?

Whatever your course is...stay on it. Stay bold. Stay creative. Stay curious.

And stay wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Beginning..evolving...arriving at where you are now.

Salt in the Rainbow? Or, the danger of assumptions and inferences...

It never ceases to amaze me how some fishes seem to get lumped into a broad category  in terms of what type of habitat they come from.  

Assumptions, inferences, and downright bad information abounds out there. It's really hard to get accurate information sometimes! This has been really obvious in the more serious research I was doing for brackish water fishes for one of our displays. A friend suggested "Raibows"- and, like any superficially-interested, completely inexperienced non-specialist, I jumped on line and started searching. I was looking for some information to see if there are any Melanotaenia Rainbowfishes that  occur naturally in brackish water habitats. (because I fell into that large group of ignorant, hapless "heathens" that assume every Rainbowfish must be from the classic Melanotaeinia genus, right? I mean, is there any other genus for Rainbows? )

(The beloved M. boesmani...Pic by Eileen Kortright, used under CC BY 2.5)

Once you get beyond stuff like "Jimmy's Tropical Favorite Fish Page!" or whatever, the real hard facts are often more difficult to ferret out. It often boils down to having to sift through various scientific papers and resources, which are often confusing as well. You can also haunt hobby specialty forums, and get really good information from a few people that may comfortably be referred to as "experts."  Notice, I said "a few"- because it seems that even in specialty forums, inferences and assumptions are not uncommon, either...Ideally, you want to contact a person who's actually physically collected the fish in question...not always all that easy! 

It's not just confusing for Rainbows..but for a lot of the fishes commonly labeled as being "brackish water" fishes. 

A classic:

One of my favorite fishes is the "Indian Glassfish", Parambassis ranga. It's one of those euryhaline "switch hitters", in that it's found in both fresh and brackish water habitats. Yet, over the decades, it's been dogmatically characterized as a "brackish fish." The reality is that it's actually more common in pure freshwater habitats, but IS adaptable to brackish water. In fact, if you consult a source like fishbase.org and search for where the referenced specimens were collected, it appears as though every specimen referenced in their database was collected in pure freshwater, typically in areas adjacent to streams and rivers, with no salt content whatsoever.

((Image by opencage used under CC BY- SA 2.5)

Now, the fish CAN live in brackish, but seeing that the highest likelihood is that your fish was collected or bred in pure freshwater, adapting it to salt is not necessary. In fact, many come from water that is typically more soft and acidic! Yet, somehow, most of us immediately think "Brackish fish...add some salt to the water to keep it happy!"

AND BY THE WAY- DO NOT PURCHASE THE ARTIFICIALLY PAINTED VERSIONS OF THESE FISH!!!! 

I only include the pic so that you can remember what an atrocity against nature this practice is...

Moving on...

This  confusion/assumption stuff seems to be the case with a lot of Rainbowfishes, actually. For some reason, you'll stumble onto literature that suggests that quite a number of these cool fishes come from brackish habitats. And that is the case with a few species, but you can't make generic assumptions with them! In fact, you'll actually have a fairly difficult time finding truly good detailed information about these amazing fishes outside of some of the speciality groups. 

Even the well-known "Celebes Rainbowfish" is merely tolerant of salt in its water, but it would be hard to call it a true "brackish water fish", occurring predominantly in this type of environment. In fact, it's pretty much the same with most Rainbows. Most species are never found in brackish waters, so keeping any of these fish in an aquarium with a specific gravity at or above SG 1.005 is pushing it, IMHO. But they are hardy and tolerant of slightly brackish water, and will do well in a low-salinity aquarium (like 1.003). 

To most non-specialist fish people, the genus Melanotaenia is like THE genus for Raibowfishes... In popular hobby perception, those are the ones we think of when someone tells you "I keep Rainbowfishes!" Of course, like so many other things in the hobby, it pays to know specialists who really know their stuff...And even then  it's not entirely cut and dry...

Depending upon who you ask  there is a Melanotaenia Rainbowfish that is, according to many hobby sources, supposedly a more-or-less "full-time" brackish-water dweller, the "Black-Banded Rainbowfish", Melanotaenia nigrans.  

It's interesting to note that it's the "type species" of its genus. Although somewhat common in its natural habitat in Australia, it's not hugely popular in the hobby. Yet it seems to be listed consistently as a Rainbowfish that IS found in brackish water. However, when you dig further, particularly into scientific literature, as opposed to hobby literature, it's hard to find a reference to specimens collected in brackish areas, not just "implied" to be in them.  Although it does reference brackish occurrences in the description on fishbase.org, all of the specimens noted were collected from pure freshwater! In fact, the "Fishes of Australia" website of Museums Victoria lists the occurrences for this fish as follows:

"Known only from two isolated populations in NT in coastal streams from Daly River, eastwards across Arnhem Land to Groote Eylandt in the Gulf of Carpentaria, and a Cape York, QLD population known from Prince of Wales Island and a few small tributaries of the Jardine River. 

Occurs in a variety of freshwater habitats including rainforest streams, lily lagoons and small, swampy creeks. Also found in larger streams and rivers in areas of low flow such as backwaters or along the shoreline."

It's not easy to discern from the available literature which, if any, of the Melanotaeinia Rainbowfishes actually are found in brackish water to any extent in nature! Yet, we in the more general areas of the hobby seem to be under the impression that some of them are brackish water fishes. It's kind of like the Mollies, right? Remember our blog on them not too long ago?

I'm totally confused.

Again, that's a classic reason why you join those speciality study groups and get in touch with real experts, many of whom have actually been to the wild habitats of the fishes they love and can give you some pretty good information on them! 

Now, one thing I'm not confused about is that there are some fishes classified as "Rainbowfishes" that definitely come from brackish, even possibly marine habitats: The  Pseudomugil. Yep, Pseudomugil signifer, P.  tenellus, and P. cyanodorsalis will be fine in brackish, and even full-strength saltwater, though somewhat rarely.

(P. signifier. Image by Caliber used under CC BY-SA- 4.0)

Again, from fishbase: "Distribution: New Guinea and adjacent islands, northern and eastern Australia, and parts of eastern Indonesia. Brackish and freshwater, rarely in marine water (2 spp.)"

These are about as cool a bunch of fishes as there is, and they are excellent subjects for our "semi-slaty" world. We'll be devoting some "blog time" to our experiences and thoughts on these species in upcoming editions of  "The Tint" for sure!

And that's where the story ends for now. It's not so much that this is some hard-hitting exposure on the Rainbowfishes and their suitability or occurrence in brackish water habitats...Rather, it's a gentle reminder that we all need to dig a bit deeper before we accept face value on stuff, or make assumptions on information found in our hobby literature and discussions. I've definitely made the mistake of making broad assumptions based on just a bit of information many times, and I don't want to confuse the issues further by perpetuating them. And even then, I know I've personally assumed and shared some shaky stuff before...it's something many of us have, and we owe it to ourselves- to the hobby- to reign it in as much as possible. None of us are perfect. None of us have all of the answers. But that doesn't mean we can't search for them...

Especially when it comes to stuff like Rainbows.

Until next time...

Stay relentless. Stay informed. Stay skeptical, when needed...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

The "overtly functional" aspects of the blackwater/botanical-style aquarium...and that "mental shift" again!

As we get more and more into this botanical-style, blackwater thing, we learn more and more interesting things about how these types of aquariums perform over the long term, and how you manage the systems with all of the "stuff" in there, breaking down and imparting their tannins, humic substances, and bound-up organic materials. 

From a physical standpoint, we don't really have a problem with the leaves, seed pods, and other materials breaking down in the aquarium. Once you've made that "mental leap" to accept this as a very natural look and function, then it's a matter of making it all work. Fortunately, we as a community have moved beyond the initial perception (particularly from the "nun-initiated") that, just because our water is brown, and because our tanks contain decomposing leaves, that they're "dirty" or "out of control", or "poorly maintained." (all things we heard a lot a couple of years ago...and still do on occasion)

Now, although we've addressed this stuff before, with so many people getting into the game, it makes sense to review it from time to time- especially in light of the many different types of setups that our community is utilizing botanicals in (i.e.; planted aquariums, hardscapes, fry rearing tanks, dedicated botanical/leaf litter systems, etc.). And let's face it, with more people, comes more knowledge, more refinement of technique, and more opportunity for us all to learn together!

One of the concerns we hear a lot is that when botanicals (specifically, leaves, but everything else, too!) break down, they end up in little pieces that can end up creating a bit of a mess if they start accumulating in filter intakes and such. It's a valid question, because, let's face it- we've been "trained" throughout our fishy careers to look at debris and such with a certain degree of disdain- not only from an aesthetic standpoint- but from a maintenance one as well!

First off, as we all know, stuff does break down over time. Some leaves, like Catappa, tend to be less durable than others and are far more "transitory" in nature than say, Guava, Magnolia, or Jackfruit, which tend to be more durable and take a much, much longer time to fully break down in the aquarium. That being said, Catappa tends to break down gradually, over a period of a few (maybe 2-3 weeks, depending on various factors, such as temperature, pH, water movement, fish foraging, etc.), and you'll see it breaking up, at which time you can either physically remove it, or leave it in to completely break down. 

Now, with regard to the decomposing leaves getting sucked into filters and such...it can happen, but I have not personally had this be a factor in my tanks. And coming as I do fro ma reefing background, where we are incredibly paranoid about debris that can clog overflow weirs and intakes and such, I am acutely aware of the need to monitor this stuff. However, I have personally found that, unless you're directing a lot of flow right into the botanical bed (which you wouldn't likely do, because you'll have stuff being dispersed everywhere-you're more likely to use indirect flow), most of the debris that occurs from leaf/botnanical breakdown tends to stay "low" in the tank, where it is easily removed manually if desired. Surface skimmers, or intakes placed higher up the water column are one easy solution, but a combination of stuff usually does the trick.

And, believe it or not, I've found that one of your best allies in keeping stuff out of the water column (and therefore, filter intakes and such) is...biofilm! Yes, biofilm, the previously vilified, snotty-looking stuff that accumulates on your botanicals over time, causing much consternation for the uninitiated or neophyte "tinter", until he/she realizes that they are ubiquitous in nature, and highly beneficial as a food source and localized nutrient processing "vehicle." This stuff actually helps function as a sort of "biological glue" which not only weighs down some of the leaves and such, but holds them in place, keeping them from floating all over the place should they catch a favorable current.

And while we're at it, a quick refresher on biofilms: They are essential and absolutely natural. When terrestrial materials fall into the water, opportunistic life forms, ranging from algae to fungi to bacteria, will colonize the available space, taking out a living as they compete for resources.

In addition to helping to break down some of these terrestrial materials, the life forms that inhabit submerged tree branches and such reproduce rapidly, providing forage for insects and aquatic crustaceans, which, in turn are preyed upon by fishes. Yeah, a food chain...started by a piece of tree or plant that fell in the forested was covered by water during periods of inundation. Amazing.

And sure, the aesthetic "shift" that we make when we accept the presence of biofilms, decomposition, and even a bit of algae is hard for many of us. 

I get it. We, as a group, like things orderly. We like to see things looking "pristine" and well-kept...and I understand that well. For decades I was the guy in who's tanks you wouldn't see a speck of algae...Like, none. My reef tanks were so clean-looking that one of my friends jokingly suggested that "you could give birth in there..."

But guess what? "sterile" is not natural. At least, not in most aquatic habitats. I see how planted tank people take great care to optimize the environment for the plants, eliminating any algae they can find, in favor of lush plant growth. And that makes sense in that context. However, when I see systems comprised of perfectly "ratio-obeying" rocks, covered in mosses, with neat "lawns" of low-cut, perfectly manicured grass on the substrate, the word "natural" doesn't immediately come to mind. Rather, I find them stunningly beautiful; artistic- much in the same manner as a finely-kept garden or planter box. Respect for the enormous effort and talent that went in to planning, executing, and maintaining the tank. However, I take exception with the (IMHO) overstated and all-encompassing moniker of "natural-looking" ascribed to many such tanks. Natural, perhaps in the sense that plants are growing there, with fertilizers, etc...but that's about it, IMHO. 

So, understanding that, while biofilms and decomposition are part of the biological "load" of the aquarium, they are not inherently "bad" or "dangerous"- they're part of the natural ecology of underwater systems, and it's good to see hobbyists finally embracing them and their cohorts in our aquariums!

In fact, most aquatic animals simply thrive in their presence...We've just never "embraced them" before...rather, we've removed 'em immediately, much the way one might squash an ant, or pull a weed from the garden...not moving beyond the initial revulsion, and failing to take into account the true "functionality" they bring to an aquarium. We've talked about biofilms in detail before, and I think it's not bad to give ourselves a "refresher" on them now and then!

Now, all of our "zen-like" acceptance of the wabi-sabi nature of leaves and the presence of biofilms and detritus and such, but the fact is, when you add materials like leaves and botanicals into your tanks, they are part of the biological load that your system needs to adjust to. We've talked about it a lot before, but there are dangers of adding too much too fast. The beneficial bacteria which break down biological waste can only grow so fast, so a huge influx of leaves or botanicals in a brief time span in an existing aquarium can certainly have some negative effects, including a rapid decrease in oxygen levels. The key, as we've stressed repeatedly, is to move slowly, incrementally. Sure, one you gain experience, you'll know how far you can "push it", but nature doesn't really care about your "experience"- if the conditions aren't right and the bacteria in your system cannot accommodate a rapid significant increase in bioload, she'll kick your ass like a personal trainer!

Respect nature. Learn from her.

We benefit immensely when we consider our botanical-style aquariums- or any type of aquarium, for that matter- as a small ecosystem, which has inputs, outputs, cycles, and rhythms, all of which are dictated by the fungi and bacteria which are the real "workers" in our aquariums. We can assist by performing the same types of maintenance we'd do on any aquarium: Regular water changes, filter media cleaning/replacement, and common sense stocking and feeding of our fishes. Much like a reef tank, or a planted aquarium, for that matter, I believe that a botanical-style aquarium will find a sort of "functional equilibrium" over time which works. It may take a bit of playing with stocking, botanical additions, and husbandry practices  by you to help your system "find" it's path- but it will happen. And make no doubt- a botanical system will "correct" for any errors via chemical imbalances, CO2 increases, and overall functional challenges if you push. 

Active management is part of the game with botanical-style aquariums. Although they settle down nicely once established, they are simply not "set and forget" aquariums (as if ANY of them really are, if we're honest with ourselves?)...

This is not new.

Conceptually, it's not unknown to us as aquarium hobbyists. However, the context in which this occurs- and accepting things like decomposition, biofilms, leaves on the bottom, etc., as part of the visual "ecosystem" - is a bit different. They're more "overtly functional"- that is, you can actually "see" the tangible evidence of the processes in many cases, which would otherwise be occurring out of sight in other systems (in the filter, under the sand, in "cryptic areas" in the tank, etc.). Not everyone will like this. Not everyone will agree with the philosophy or concept as I'm presenting it here. It's a point of view that accepts way more than we're used to- and also one in which we 'cede" a bit more control to nature, and question more...and have much, much more to learn about, too.

That makes some hobbyists uncomfortable, and that's perfectly understandable. There is still a lot of room for experimentation and input from hobbyists at all levels.

As a botanical/blackwater aquarium enthusiast, you're going to become more attuned to these processes. Much will come out of necessity, and other parts of the equation will perk your fascination, spurring you to research more. You'll want to educate yourself more on the nitrogen cycle, the role that terrestrial materials play in the aquatic environment, and how fishes and other aquatic organisms "fit" into the grand scheme of things. You'll become as much an "aquarium ecologist" as a fish keeper!

It's an always-changing, continuously-evolving cycle of life. And we get to see it all in the comfort of our own home.

I don't think we as aquarists couldn't ask for much more than that.

Stay bold. Stay observant. Stay involved.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics