The Tint

The idea of the "evolving" aquarium...Evolved.

"Evolving" is a word we tend to use quite a bit here at Tannin.

And it's a word that I think is pretty descriptive of the way we look at blackwater/botanical-style (BWBS) aquariums in general. They are never quite "finished"- nor are they ever at a phase that is "static" and unchanging, in both appearance and physical environment status.

Since the very nature of utilizing materials such as leaves and botanicals will result in them breaking down in water, and not only changing in appearance, but influencing the water chemistry to a varying degree, it makes sense to view every aquarium as an evolving entity.

And, as an evolving entity, a blackwater, botanical-style aquarium requires some understanding and patience, and the passage of time...

We've spoken about this so many times it's probably almost "vomit inducing" to some of you, huh? However, today we're looking at it from another perspective. I've had a few hobbyists contact me lately asking about what botanicals they'd use in an aquarium where they want to sort of have a "base" of durable stuff, and then simply replace either leaves or softer botanical materials.

I understand this logic completely, specifically within the context of a blackwater, botanical-style aquarium. The idea is very simple, and it's more or less how I've managed the vast majority of my botanical-style tanks over the years: You start with a "base" of more durable materials, which, in addition to driftwood and or rocks (if you're using some...remember this blog?), form your "hardscape." Then, you complete the scene with a selection of less durable, more "ephemeral" materials, such as softer botanicals and leaves.

As the aquarium runs in, you'll see the usual phases (biofilm, etc.), and the softening and gradual breakdown/decomposition of the "less durable" botanicals. Replace the softer stuff as needed (or not) to keep the look you like, and leave the more "durable" items in indefinitely. And that's how you not only let your tank evolve naturally- but you can keep the look (and possibly even the environmental effects caused by the botanicals) consistent throughout the "working lifetime" of the tank! 

So, when specifically pressed about what materials I'd use for more "permanent" components of my hardscape (and with due regard for the fact that this could easily degenerate into a blatant advertisement for our stuff!), I'd utilize some of the following:

"Jungle Pods"

"Savu Pods"

"Ceu Fruta"

"Rio Fruta"

"Monkey Pots"

"Heart Pods"

"Encontro Pods"

Notice that I said "some"- because I am not of the belief that you should use "one of everything" in your 'scape...I mean, that's just me, but I have found that it just looks a bit better to select 3-4 different botanicals and use multiples of them. And of course, there are lots of other selections besides the ones I list here...These are just the ones on my mind (and in my tanks) at the moment, lol, so there are some notable omissions, of course. You're list of "go-to's" will evolve and change over time, just like mine!

The somewhat "less durable" botanicals  I'd use for the hardscape would include:

"Terra Sorrindo Pods"

"Banana Stem Pieces"

Coco Curls

"Fishtail Palm Stems"

Indian Catappa Bark

"Lampada Pods"

Of course, with the same caveat that I'd select my fave 2-3 varieties and double down on them. Again, that's my personal aesthetic- a lot of hobbyists and biotope enthusiasts believe a maximum variety is better. Totally up to you. And remember, I'm just referencing the materials in our selection that come to mind...you may have some that you collect, or have acquired elsewhere (Really?! WTF? Just kidding!), and have developed your own "leave in-take-out" protocols, which is totally cool!

Then, of course, come the leaves...

We've revisited them so many times over the years that I"ll limit my comments to some quick thoughts on the frequency of replacement again. If you're like most botanical-style blackwater aquarium hobbyists, you're pretty "active" in the management of your tank, so you're typically replacing/supplementing leaves as a regular part of your maintenance.

You will probably get a feel for how quickly your aquarium "processes" leaves- as well as a definite opinion of what looks best for you, aesthetic-wise. I have come to embrace the more "ragged", softening and decomposing look (I guess you hardcore 'scapers would even call it a "wabi-sabi" look, huh?), and tend to leave my leaves in until they completely break down, and simply add a few leaves every couple of days to add new ones into the mix as older ones break down. Of course, I like dark, soupy water and the "biofilm-on-stuff" kind of look.

I know many others who favor the crisp, colorful look of newer, fresher leaves in their scapes. And that's totally up to you. No real rules here.

Likely, you'll find some "in-between" that suits your tastes and stick with that. My only comment is that you'll possibly even notice the visual effect ("tint") that adding and/or leaving leaves in for extended periods of time has on your water. You may also be a more "quant-driven" aquarist who utilizes TDS or pH or some other measure to determine when to add or remove leaves- the beauty is that it's totally your call!

In the end, managing and embracing the "evolution" of a botanical-style blackwater aquarium is a completely individual thing, based on aesthetics, environmental parameters, and the requirements of your animals. Trust me, your thoughts will change, and your ideas will evolve over time as you take your idea from "concept" to "live"- and realize that there simply is no "finish line" here! It's an evolving, ongoing, adaptable microcosm.

In fact, If you're months in and simple don't like the look or performance or whatever- you can easily change it. It's a lot like catching a continuously-running commuter train or subway line! Huge? Well, part of the beauty of the evolving BWBS aquarium is that you can sort of "pick it up where you are" and "ride it" out for a while or change the "routing" as you desire! Started your tank as an Amazonian habitat but you're suddenly enamored with a more "asian" look? Super easy, right?

Evolution is not only fun to watch. It's fun to manage as well. And it's even more fun to have the option to do either!

Enjoy it.

Stay creative. Stay involved. Stay observant. Stay diligent. Stay free.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Tackling the Winter "To Do' List...

As Winter get's going, the real "Aquarium Season" ramps up, and it's perhaps a good time to start an interesting list of new things to try when aquariums once again become the focus of your leisure time, after the holidays and parties and such.

I have a few ideas that I've been telling myself I'd like to get to "soon.." (You know how THAT goes, right?) 

I figure that if I commit them to writing, I'm more likely to work on them more, and perhaps pique interest from a few of you....

"The List..."

Have you played around with terrestrial plants in your aquarium?

I know the idea has been around a long time. It's not a new idea by any stretch. However, in the context of what we do with our botanical-style blackwater aquariums, it has some interesting possibilities. And this is not rocket science. We've seen a bunch of you playing with this concept and it's very intriguing. 

It's like totally simple, actually...Take a cutting of a typical houseplant, like a Golden Pothos (Epipremnum pinnatum) or Split Leaf Philodendron (Monstera deliciosa), let it root, and add it to your aquarium, where it will put down an impressive tangle of roots and marginal growth not unlike that encountered in many of the blackwater habitats that we admire so much. 

Now, many terrestrial ("emergent") plants are known for their ability to remove nutrients form the water, and have become a sort of "secret weapon" for nutrient control and export (as well as assimilation of CO2 from both the water and air) for many aquarists who keep high-metabolic- waste-producing cichlids and such. And of course, us being lovers of the natural vibe in general, we like them as much for their aesthetic as for anything else!

There is a lot to be said for trying to duplicate the root tangles found in many tropical aquatic habitats, as they serve as shelter, foraging area, and territory "breaks" for a variety of fishes. We've talked about how they can function well as "nurseries" for juvenile fishes. I fondly recall seeing young killifish darting among the roots in my 10-gallon fry tank back in the day, and it was a really cool sight!

I'd like to do that again.

And of course, it's pretty easy to use these houseplants in our aquariums...you literally take a cutting, root it in water for a couple of weeks, and then add it to your aquarium. I suppose you could even root the plant in your substrate, but I've always just let them do their thing in water. I'm eager to try this again, because I think that this type of aesthetic will really help replicate the igarape and igapo habitats that I'm so intrigued with. 

The other idea that I think warrants a lot more attention from our community is to experiment more with bark.

Huh?

Yeah, like catappa bark. Not only is this stuff interesting to look at, it harbors all of the benefits of catappa leaves (i.e.; tannins, humic substances), lasts a very long time, and can be a perfect "tint vehicle" for those who "love the color but hate the leaves" in their tanks (yeah, there are a few of you...).

Since they don't break down into little bits and pieces like leaves, the use of "stacks" of bark pieces in the blackwater aquarium is a real win-win, providing an interesting aesthetic as well as "functional" benefits. It's literally a "tint hack" for easy, dark blackwater...

I could even envision a smaller aquarium with extensive coverage of bark strips/pieces over the sand substate, with maybe a few types of complimentary botanicals (like "Lampada Pods", Coco Curls,  "Ceu Fruta", and "Terra Sorrindo"), perhaps a scattering of leaves (like Guava), and whatever wood you're into. A sort of "sub-hardscape" that would be interesting to see implemented. The truly bold among you would just go for the "sub hardscape" sans wood...no vertical elements..crazy cool! Anyone who does this gets serious extra points in my book (and perhaps some other Tannin "goodies" if you share pics...hint, hint...)!

Now, the preparation of catappa bark is like most any of our aquatic botanicals...quite straightforward: Just steep them in boiling water for a few minutes, followed by a day or two in room temperature freshwater. This not only helps them saturate and sink, but releases any surface "dirt" (it IS tree bark we're talking about here...) that might be present.

Easy.

And, since we're always talking about trying some new stuff, I think it's time to do a little experimentation with brackish water stuff. We've been moving a lot of "Estuary" mangrove branches/roots (seems like we're photographing and uploading new pieces as fast as the ones on the site sell!) and leaf litter, so it looks as though there is a lot of interest in this more "botanical" approach we're advocating...and a ton of room for experiments! With some upcoming videos and photoshoots of some brackish-water efforts to provide inspiration, we're thinking it could be a "sort of salty" Winter for many of you...

Time to start working on substrates.

Yes, I think that the combination of sand/mud substrate materials, along with mangrove leaf litter, terrestrial soil, and perhaps even planted aquarium substrates, will yield some interesting results. The idea of growing plants like Cryptocoryne ciliata and other brackish-water-adaptable rich-substrate-loving plants in the brackish-water equivalent of a "dirted" tank is becoming more and more intriguing! 

Outside of the mangrove leaf litter, I don't think you need to incorporate all sorts of aquarium-specific materials either. Many of you have played with the mud/dirt concept in typical planted aquaria, and have a pretty good idea about what works in this situation. I believe it's directly applicable to brackish, albeit with a calcareous sand component for help in buffering.

This is a field that's absolutely wide open for "ground floor"- and potentially ground breaking-experimentation by brave hobbyists willing to go where few, if any have gone before!

Not that you don't have enough of your own ideas on your list to play with...

So those are a few items on my version of "The "List" as we head into Winter  Will I get to them?

Maybe. Will YOU get to them- or to yours? I hope!

So, in the mean time- hit that "to do" list. Tackle some items on yours...unlock some secrets, and share your journey!

Stay excited. Stay ambitious. Stay curious. Stay bold.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

These are the days...

Don't you just kind of "geek out" when you order something fish related online and it's going to be delivered today?

I mean, I do.

It doesn't matter if it's a part for your RO/DI unit, a bunch of pelleted food, 10 pounds of activated carbon, or- on those truly special days- that breeding pair of Apistos or rare Gouramis, or whatever kind of fish you're into at the moment- you still get this childlike excitement, like the night before Christmas or something, right?

If you're like me, you track your order online ("Oh, honey, look- it's in Memphis right now!"), you watch your porch, you listen for every "delivery-truck-sounding" vehicle coming down the street (damn, just a school bus!), and look for an email from USPS, FedEx, DHL, or UPS with that beautiful subject line: "Your package was delivered..."

All this happens near simultaneously...all the while, you're trying to keep your steely-cool demeanor of perceived indifference. As if this were an everyday thing that wasn't really all that exciting.

But it is. And you're doing a lousy job of playing cool. Let's face it.

I mean, you're waiting for "fish stuff!" 

If you're at work when the shipment is due to arrive, of course, it's even more exciting, distracting, and downright nerve-wracking, isn't it? Your mind runs wild with every scenario: "What if it's a new delivery guy and he puts my package on the wrong porch?" Or worse, "What if the delivery person misreads the instructions and needs me to sign for the delivery? Where and when can I pick it up?"

Or even worse yet- the online status indicates that a "Delivery Exception" has occurred  What does that even mean? Is it a weather delay that has held up your package? Did that cold front really create airport issues? Or is the box somehow damaged and undeliverable, or...?

Your imagination runs wild...

Need to call...but can't get out of that meeting.  Feeling sick...

You know, stuff like that.

It's such a weird thing that many a good fish geek will simply take the day off, using a sick day when he or she knows that a package is set to arrive. We can't risk it being handled by ANYONE else, not even our long-suffering spouse!

Nope.

Besides, you're kind of feeling ga bit run-down lately, right?

Even the word, "package", brings up some visceral, child-like feeling in a fish geek like me. A "package" is a magical thing that contains cool stuff that can help you really geek out even more! I love that word.

And when the package does arrive- when it all comes together and you are there to receive it from the delivery person (who has no idea that you were stalking her while she parked the truck at the curb, took out your package from the back of the truck, and slowly- agonizingly slowly- walked up the driveway to your porch), your pulse quickens...

And it takes everything you have NOT to open the door half a second after the doorbell rings...No, you're too cool for that- you wait another second or tow, and casually open the door to grab the goods. And of course, you are hoping- praying- that the delivery persona doesn't engage in any small talk greater than the usual pleasantries or comment about the weather, because you've got to open that package!

And you casually close that door...and run to the drawer where your scissors is...Where is it?

And you finally open that package- a complete sensory experience, the feel, the sound, the smell of cardboard and packaging tape- all seared not your brain circuitry from a lifetime of waiting for and opening packages...

What a moment!

And even if it IS just a 6 pack of new filter socks, it might as well be that rare Pleco you ordered from the guy in New Jersey. You admire your prize, and feel...well, content.

For now.

It's the culmination of a long process. The pinnacle of an experience filled with all sorts of emotions, impulses, and rituals. You feel something. Relief, perhaps? Or the desire to go through that whole thing again next week. Yeah, these are the days that reinforce how into this hobby we really are...

And you go back online and peruse the vendors' offerings..."Hmm, how much do I have to order to get free shipping...?"

You are a fish geek. Through and through.

As for me..?

I need to go now. I have a package arriving today, and I need to check on it...

Stay excited. Stay alert. Stay diligent. Stay geeky.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Sorting through the catappa leaves...searching for the facts beneath the jargon.

So, pretty much everywhere I go, people who are unfamiliar with our geeky little botanical world and it’s tricks and crazy ideas are generally asking me why Catappa leaves seem to have some sort of “lock” on the collective consciousness of people who swear by them. Is it some weird, cult-led devotion? Some crazy anecdotal ideas that ended up getting twisted and warped into some yarn that they contain magical powers?

Perhaps...

Well, if you read some blogs and articles in the some corners of the aquarium world, you’d be inclined to think this! There is a lot of wordy gobbledygook out there that sounds very impressive...but what does it all mean for us as fish geeks?

And of course, if you read my blog, I spend an equal amount of time erasing biofilms and decomposition, so... yeah. I may not be the guy to sort it all out...but what the hell...I'll give it a little shot here.

Back to Catappa...

There’s a lot of claims attributed to these leaves, and it’s often hard to sort through all of the hyperbole and find the potentially true facts that might be of interest and value to us as aquarists. The last thing I want to do is get caught up in touting all sorts of unsubstantiated claims about these leaves and the substances they contain, so I did my best to ferret out just what the ”real deal" is here!

And it isn't all that clear.

I mean, we have featured a lot of information about the benefits of humic substances, which catappa and other botanicals are known to impart into the water, and those are significant. However, when the hobby praises catappa, specifically, I wonder exactly what these leaves are purported to do...and how/why they supposedly do it.

As you know, I'm no chemist, but I do know how to look stuff up (which often leads me down the "rabbit hole" to some sort of trouble, lol)...so, coffee in hand, I jumped in a little bit deeper into the whole lore of Catappa benefits, and give a little summary of some of the most commonly touted "beneficial compounds" (in hobby articles) which are contained in them, and what they might do for fishes, based on the scientific research I could find. Now, again, I'm no scientist as you know, and some of the terminology we’ll use still sounds a bit “fancy”- perhaps even vague, but I tried my best to “translate” some of the really “hardcore” scientific jargon into some stuff that is decipherable to us mortals!  

And I can't help but wonder...

I mean, some of the compounds in catappa are known to have benefits in humans. However, I am curious how some of these things really "translate" over to fishes, you know?

The practice of using catappa leaves in aquariums is quite old. And there is a certain logic to their use, which is hard to question. For many years, Betta breeders and other enthusiasts in Southeast Asia added catappa leaves to the tanks and containers that held their fishes, and noticed a lot of positives…Those who actually fought their fishes seemed to feel that, when kept in water into which catappa had been steeped, their fishes recovered more quickly from their injuries. Those who simply kept fishes (not for “blood sport”) noticed increased overall vigor, appetite, and health among their fishes. 

Okay.

Anecdotal? Perhaps.I mean, probably...

However, one thing I've learned about the early aquarists is that they employed very keen power of observation. They were a practical lot, if nothing more, who didn't have the internet and cool gadgets and stuff to rely on for information. It was more about trying stuff and going with things that seemed to work for them. They were obviously seeing something- or a combination of things, which led them to believe that using catappa leaves  was beneficial to their fishes.

Now, this makes a lot of sense, right? I mean, the natural habitats of many of the fishes of Southeast Asia are blackwater, botanical-influenced waters, rich with tannin from decomposing vegetation and naturally occurring peat. We’ve talked a lot about the benefits of “humic substances” for fish health, and, not surprisingly, there has actually been a fair amount of scholarly research into this area, mainly in the area of food fish production…and much of it points to the fact that many of the humic substances and compounds which benefit fishes are found in…surprise! Catappa!

So, if the men and women in the white coats feel that there is something there, we should take notice, huh?

Well, we should check it out!

The bark and particularly, the leaves of the Indian Almond tree- contain a host of interesting chemicals that may provide direct health benefits for tropical fishes. The leaves themselves contain several flavonoids, like kaempferol and quercetin, a number of tannins, like punicalin and punicalagin, as well as a suite of saponins and phytosterols. Extracts of T. catappa have shown some effectiveness against some bacteria, specifically, Plasmodium, and some parasites as well. 

As we all know by now, when catappa leaves are immersed in water, the tannins and humic substances are released, which can lower the pH of the water if their is minimal general hardness. The tannins are what tint the water to a beautiful brownish color which we devotedly call “blackwater.”

But, you kind of knew that already, huh?

It has even been postulated by some that the tannins in Catappa leaves are able to reduce the toxicity of heavy metals in aquarium water, essentially binding them up or chelating them- if true, a most interesting benefit for the urban fish keeper, I might add! I think that’s a pretty big supposition, but I suppose it’s possible that it can be true, right? I mean, it's not by "magic" if this happens...there is probably some chemical process which occurs to make this happen..

At this point, you’re probably thinking, ”Okay, Scott. All of that stuff sounds very scholarly, but what exactly are those things that are in catappa, and what can they do for my fishes?”

There are really a few that I found which have alleged benefits for humans- and for fishes...So I'm just focusing on them in the context of this piece, okay?

Well, lets start with the flavonoids. Flavonoids have been shown by science to have direct and synergistic antibacterial activity (with antibiotics) and the ability to suppress bacterial virulence factors in a number of research studies. They may also act as chemical "messengers", physiological regulators, and "cell cycle inhibitors", which bodes well for their use as a prophylactic of sorts. Kaempferol, a noted flavonoid,  is thought to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Could this be why Betta fanciers used them for so many years after fighting their fishes?

Perhaps, right? Tradition!

Saponins can be used to enhance penetration of macromolecules, like proteins, into cell membranes. Some are used in vaccines to help stimulate immune responses, so you can imagine some potential benefits here as well, right? Yeah!

Yeah, I can see that.

Phytosterols are interesting for their alleged capacity to reduce cholesterol in humans, but the benefits are probably non-existent, or minimal for fishes, especially as it pertains to Catappa leaves in the aquarium! I mention them in this piece merely because fishy marketers touting the benefits of Catappa leaves love to throw them out there for reasons I cannot grasp- or maybe just because they are in catappa and it sounds cool? Dunno.

IMHO, it's pure marketing B.S....I mean, it sounds cool and all, but... Yeah.

Punicalagins act as antioxidants and are the major component responsible for the antioxidant health benefits of fruits, such as pomegranates (The really messy fruit that I always hated as a kid...). They are water soluble and have high bioavailability, so it is quite possible that they are of some benefit to fishes! I mean, antioxidants , right?

There must be a study out there on the benefits of antioxidants for fish health, right? That's worth a gander on Google, huh?

I did find a cool study conducted by fisheries researchers in Thailand on Tilapia, which concluded that Catappa extract was useful at eradicating the nasty exoparasite, Trichodina, and the growth of a couple of strains of Aeromonas hydrophila was also inhibited by dosing Catappa leaf extract! In addition, this solution was shown to reduce the fungal infection in Tilapia eggs. 

That's pretty significant, and correlates nicely with some of the much-touted anti-fungal properties of catappa leaves. Perhaps this is the most interesting and logical of the many claims made about catappa leaves and their capabilities at enhancing fish health!

For reference, here is the study:

(Chitmanat, C., Tongdonmuan, K., Khanom, P., Pachontis, P. and Nunsong, W. (2005). Antiparasitic, Antibacterial, and Antifungal activities Derived from a Terminalia catappa solution against some Tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) Pathogens. Acta Hortic. 678, 179-182

DOI: 10.17660/ActaHortic.2005.678.25)

Now, that's as far as I could handle going before my head was ready to explode!

And I think I covered some of the major compounds found in catappa as they pertain to fish health benefits, as touted by aquarium hobby marketers and authors. Are there others? Of course there probably are...and probably an equal number of anecdotal claims of stuff they do.

But I"m done for now, lol. I'm reasonably satisfied with what I've uncovered.

Suffice it to say, my very superficial examination of this stuff has, as usual- raised as many questions as it answers (did I answer any, actually?). That being said, I think it might be safe to say that, despite some of the marketing BS that's been circulating around the use of catappa leaves in aquariums, there may very well be some "legit" science and real tangible benefits for fishes from their use.

I mean, we are inundated daily with reports of how nice and healthy customers' fishes are looking when catalpa and other botanicals are used in their aquariums, and how such-and-such a fish that never spawned before laid eggs a week after the botanicals were introduced, etc...

Coincidence?

I don't think so. However, before I personally start advising everyone to toss leaves into their spawning tanks as an antifungal, I'd love to see even more and more practical research on the hobby level. You know, comparing egg viability in killies or tetras or Apsitos, for example, in systems with and without the blackwater conditions.

As I've said so many times before...the blackwater aquarium world has so many more secrets and discoveries to be revealed- so much to learn...and so much to be done as we literally pull the practice of botanical-style blackwater aquariums out from the shadows of the hobby. With the potential for legitimate breakthroughs just hanging out there...it's up to us to get to the bottom of it all!

Who's in?

Stay bold. Stay Experimental. Stay fascinated. Stay skeptical. Stay open-minded...

And always...

Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Transitioning to the dark side...The process. The Mindset. The Challenges. The rewards.

We talk quite a bit about the process of setting up a botanical-style, blackwater aquarium from scratch, and the mindset, research, concepts, and execution involved. However, we have a large number of customers and community members who have an existing aquarium and want to switch it over to a blackwater aquarium. We receive a fair number of questions about the process, so I figured that now is as good a time as any to touch on it!

Now, I've always had this "thing" about most aquarium-related "how-to" type articles, because I think they tend to offer up information as if everything were simply a "recipe", and that if you "do this" or add "a bit of that"- you're certain to achieve "such-and-such" a result...And you know as well as I do that, with hundreds of possible variables in the equation, an aquarium is no "picnic." Nothing is a "given", even when you're considering trying to hit a narrow range of conditions with seemingly "the right" combination of actions.

So, with that "disclaimer" in mind (LOL), we're going to at least look at the overall "how to", and we can all fill in the blank spaces in our specific situations with more customized approaches as needed.

First off, the obvious questions we need to ask ourselves when commencing such a change are, "Do the fishes which I keep come from this type of environment in nature?" and "Am I willing to take the time to do it slowly?" The answer to the first question is pretty obvious- and it's almost sort of insulting that I'd even mention it...but due diligence, ya' know...

The second question is to me- more interesting..in fact, it's, as we say here in America- "The whole ball game.." (they probably say that in every country, too, but hey...).

Patience. Time.

It goes without saying that, if you've been keeping your fishes- even ones which come from blackwater conditions in nature- in harder, more alkaline water, there will need to be a gradual transition to this type of environment. We've talked about it before, but I am of the opinion that even, for example, Tetras or other fishes that may have been bred commercially in "tap water" conditions (not necessarily soft and acidic) for the past few decades still could benefit from being "repatriated" into more natural conditions. However, you're still putting them through an environmental change, and this requires time.

I'd start by doing a sort of "baseline assessment" of the pH and alkalinity of my water. I'd make sure that I have sufficient filtration in place to accommodate some additional bioload (you know, decomposing leaves and such). You should also give some thought about what your target pH/alkalnity are. If you're using tap water with a pH of 8.2 and considerable carbonate hardness, for example, you need to consider how you might bring these measurements down.

And you should, in my opinion, be willing to make the "infrastructure investment" (pricy though it may be) in a reverse osmosis/dioinization unit...or at least, finding a source of good, consistent RO/DI water (many fish stores will sell you RO/DI by the gallon/litre!). The rationale here is that it's far, far easier to reduce the pH in water with little or no carbonate hardness...a better "canvas" upon which to work.

If you aren't using RO/DI water in your current setup, you can even start gradually mixing some in (without adjusting it or adding anything) with your regular water exchanges. This will help to gradually lower the carbonate hardness and pH. Slow steps. If you can get your water to around neutral (7.0), that's a great "stepping off point" for modifications to lower pH levels.

Now, speaking of pH- I wouldn't "shoot for the stars" and try to get to 5.5 or something really low right out of the blocks. For that matter, I wouldn't obsess over ANY specific "target number", really...Rather, I'd try to find a tight range that you could easily maintain. With the understanding that you need to do this over a period of weeks-months, even...I'd shoot for a modest pH level of like 6.7-6.5 as your target range...Get a feel or operating a tank under these conditions and maintaining them consistently. 

Once you've got a sort of handle on the pH and alkalinity, and have gotten them "in range", you can begin the (slow) process of "fine tuning" your habitat. Now, you might be (as I often am) surprised to find that botanicals and leaves, while impactful somewhat on pH, will drop levels much more slowly, and to a lesser extent than you might think. And if you have harder, alkaline water, the impact will be even more minimal. And the impact on carbonate hardness from botanicals is essentially nothing, in my experience. You simply need to utilize other methods to reduce KH (like the aforementioned use of RO/DI water).

The other, probably insultingly obvious thing to be aware of is that, even if the water looks dark brown, it's not necessarily 6.3 and zero KH. I mean, tannins will stain water in the absence of chemical filtration media to remove them. They may not significantly impact the pH, as mentioned above, but you'll get that visual tint. And I know many hobbyists who are perfectly happy with that. I am not aware of any studies done on the health impact to tropical fishes of tannins and humic substances in harder, alkaline environments versus soft, acidic ones, so it's sort of an open topic, really. 

My tendency is to start with relatively small quantities of materials, usually leaves, and then work in the more durable botanicals like seed pods and such. I guess my thought process is that materials such as leaves tend to break down more quickly, imparting their humic acids and tannins into the water at a corresponding pace. And of course, after your initial additions, you should measure pH and carbonate hardness again, to see if there has been any impact. A lot of hobbyists are into checking TDS as well...we've beaten up that subject quite a bit in past blogs here, so it's something you might want to research.

Obviously, the question here is "how much stuff do I start with?" And of course, my answer is...I have no idea. Yeah, what a shocker, right? I realize that's the least satisfying, possibly least helpful answer I could give to this question. Or is it? I mean, taking into account all of the possible variables, ranging from the type of water your starting with, to what kind of substrate material you're using, it would be a shot in the dark, at best. My advice is to start with conservatively small quantities of stuff...like, maybe a half a dozen leaves for every 15 US gallons (56.78L) of water. You might not even notice any difference..or you might see a .2 reduction in pH...you have to test. I recommend a digital pH meter for best accuracy.

I would make it a habit to add the same amount of materials (leaves initially, and pods if you want to mix 'em in on subsequent additions) at a regular interval. Say, every 4 or 5 days. Test again. See where you're at. I would tend to shoot for not reducing your pH by more than .5 per week. That's me of course...your fishes' tolerance and your personal comfort level with doing so is your call. And it's really a matter of repeating this process until you hit your desired range. Notice I said "range" and not "target pH" or whatever?

We receive a lot of questions about utilizing chemical filtration media while using botanicals, and again, there is no "right or wrong" here. I will tell you from my personal experience that I like to use filtration materials like Seachem "Renew", small amounts of activated carbon ("Seriously, Fellman? Activated carbon" Yes, really.), and Poly Filter on a full-item basis in my systems. The reality is that organic scavenger resins , carbons, and materials like "Renew" might be indiscriminate in their removal of stuff like humic substances, tannins, and other organic compounds released by the botanicals, but they also tend to moderate things you don't want, like ammonia and "miscellaneous" organics (how's that for a "cop out" on my part...falling back on "generics!").

Yeah, they might remove some of the visual tint, but they will remove a lot less of it if you don't use the recommended "dose" per gallon. And frankly, I've never done a serious test to see exactly how much of what various chemical filtration media actually remove from the water. Being honest here...I"ll bet not too many of you have, either, right? So, we're kind of relying on the manufacturer's instructions and good old observation.

If you're getting a sort of feeling that this is hardly a scientific, highly-choreographed, one-size-fits-all process....you're totally right. It's really a matter of (as the great hobbyist/author John Tullock once wrote) "test and tweak." In other words, see what the hell is going on before making adjustments. Logical and time-testing aquarium procedure for ANY type of tank! 

Now, the interesting thing that I've always found with my botanical-style, blackwater aquariums is that they tend to find their own "equilibrium" of sorts- a stable "operating range" that, once you find yourself doing the same procedures (i.e.; regular, consistent water exchanges, additions of botanicals, and media replacement, etc.) at regular intervals, tends to remain highly consistent as long as you keep them up. I've talked repeatedly about the (IMHO mostly unwarranted) fears people have about precipitous pH "drops" and "crashes" and such, and I believe that most all of these things are mitigated by consistency, patience, taking small steps, testing regularly, documenting and repeating them.

I've said it before an I will repeat it once again: I believe that pretty much every one of the "anomalous" pH "crashes"/disasters I've heard of in regards to blackwater, botanical-style tanks has been directly attributable to "operator error"- i.e.; failing to be consistent, diligent, and conservative. Tanks simply don't "crash" by themselves, in my experience. They fail as a result of something we did or did not do: Failure to slow down. Failure to measure. Failure to observe or continue to follow procedures that have been giving us consistently good results. In my experience, tanks will typically show "signs", develop trends, and demonstrate the manifestations of "issues" gradually...if you're attuned to them.

Botanical-style blackwater aquariums are not "set and forget" systems, exactly like reef aquariums, planted "high tech" tanks, Mbuna systems, Discus tanks, etc. You need to observe and "pivot" as situations dictate. A sort of "yin and yang", if you will, between pushing the limits and playing it safe... And you have to ask yourself if this type of "active tank management" lifestyle is for you! 

Now, within the "Things are awesome!" range and "Oh shit!" range, there is a ton of room for experimentation and research. "Best practices" in terms of how much stuff to add, when to add it- when (or if) to remove it, etc. are still the subject of much discussion among members of our community, and are evolving daily. There are, as we mentioned before- no specific "recipes" to follow...only those emerging "best practices" developed by those of us who have ventured along this path. We can tell you about the benefits, show you how to prepare botanicals, advise you about husbandry, and warn you of the things that can go wrong. The rest is up to us as individual hobbyists.

And that's not only the challenge- but (in my opinion) the appeal- of this aquarium specialty. We all have an opportunity to contribute to the state of the art. To increase our body of knowledge of how these systems operate. To unlock the manifold benefits- and potential pitfalls- of botanical-style aquarium "practice." It's not for everyone. Not everyone likes the look. Not everyone likes the work and effort required. There are still many "unknowns" and no one way to achieve "success." However, for those who choose to walk on this most interesting path- the potential rewards for us- and most important- for our fishes- are huge.

Stay excited. Stay conservative. Stay experimental. Stay diligent. Stay skeptical. Stay hopeful. Stay creative...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Long term botanical-style aquarium practice- opening up the discussion...

One of the questions that were starting to see more of as we evolve in the blackwater, botanical aquarium specialty is, "What are the long-term implications for maintaining such tanks?" (okay, it's not always worded that succinctly, lol). Hobbyists are interested in how these systems function in the long term, specifically in regards to nutrient control and export processes...

Now, this is an area of great interest to me, as well. Over the many years that I've been expert,ending with and managing blackwater, botanical-style tanks, I've placed a lot of emphasis on water quality and environmental consistency. Now, on first glance, the impression you'd get from our practice is that these are "dirty", organic-heavy systems, with high levels of nitrates, phosphates, and dissolved organic compounds...Systems "teetering on the edge", if you will. 

And I suppose that's partially because of the very appearance of these tanks- filled with decomposing leaves, seed pods, accumulating biofilms, embracing detritus, etc. Oh, and that dark brown, tannin-stained water. On the surface, the uninitiated could easily conclude that you're playing with all of the ingredients for a potential disaster.

And then the reality sets in...

Most of us who have played with these types of aquariums have seen the exact opposite: Minimal, if any- detectible nitrates, phosphate, and remarkably stable pH values. The reality is that, one the tank is "set"- that is, once you're done with the initial adding of lots of botanicals, and wood, and leaves and such...Like any tank, these tanks seem to "find" some sort of equilibrium. I've said it many times and I think that it needs repeating: In my opinion, blackwater, botanical-style aquariums are no more difficult or "dangerous" to maintain than any other type of aquarium we work with. They simply have different "operating parameters", which, one you learn, create stable, long-term viable systems.

We've talked a lot about the pH and the concerns of ph "crashes"- which I personally, in over 23 years of playing with this type of tank- have never seen. I just haven't. I know that's a big issue for a lot of people- and I won't downplay it or dismiss it. However, the reality is that I personally- nor none of my close friends who play with these kinds of systems- have ever experienced this. 

Are we lucky?

Maybe.

Do we practice overall good aquarium husbandry?

Yes.

That means we do water exchanges. Like, 10% or more weekly. Every freaking week. With the same kind of water (RO/DI, usually). We clean filter socks, pads, or any other media that we use. We don't feed recklessly. We don't overstock. We monitor basic water parameters weekly. We properly prepare and replace botanicals gradually and regularly.

Put is in for medals, right?

I mean, just because we do it with relatives ease and success doesn't mean that this is a piece of cake or anything. I get that. My point was not to "humble brag" or anything. Rather, it was to remind you that if a guy like me can be successful with this stuff, hobbyists with serious skill like you can RELALY be successful!

However, it should give you some comfort knowing that, in addition to myself an a few friends, hobbyists worldwide are playing with botanical-laden systems without anomalous crashes and disasters. Can bad stuff happen? Sure. The most common "disasters" we've seen have been by adding too many botanicals too quickly, resulting in excessive bacterial respiration- which, in turn, likely lowered the water's dissolved oxygen and increased CO2 levels rapidly to a dangerous rate. These effects happen at the same time and can lead to fishes gasping for oxygen at the surface- or worse.

But that's the extent of the "bad" that I've seen.  The idea of a pH "crash" is possible, I am sure...but I think it's largely avoidable, much like the CO2 increase. A pH "crash" is when the pH suddenly (and unintentionally) drops because of the release of acid into water with little or no buffering capacity...this can be dramatic and quick...But I think, once again, it would be caused because of our own actions- intentional or otherwise...Not something that is inherently "on standby" in a blackwater, botanical-style aquarium. Sure, we work with materials that can affect the pH..but it's not a ticking time bomb, if you add materials logically and slowly. Observation and patience are keys. 

Now, I am not a chemist, and I'll be the first to admit that what I'm using to justify my position is largely anecdotal, based on my operating many such systems over the years. I have not done rigorous controlled experiments on this stuff.  That being said, I'd welcome those with the interest and knowledge to conduct some cool experiments to see what we can learn! I am really of the opinion that WE as hobbyists are the causative factor of many of these "anomalous" events in our aquariums. They can almost always be traced back to some action which triggered the event...

If your continuously adding materials which drive down the pH in your tank, and it has insufficient buffering capacity- the pH will drop. How rapidly? Well, I couldn't' tell you. But I believe such "crashes" are quick, immediate responses to some causative factors. And I think they can be remedied equally as quickly. There is a lot of this stuff on hobby forums about working with pH, and quite frankly, I find it a bit too complex and tedious to understand and explain, so I recommend doing a "deep dive" on this stuff if it is a concern. It's out there! 

The potion of this extremely brief piece today is NOT to get into every aspect of water chemistry, management of botanical aquariums, and pH issues. Rather, it's to sort of open up a discussion on long-term management of botanical-style aquariums. 

We'll have more detailed discussions in upcoming blogs, and this is a very interesting and important topic that we need to discuss more over time.

Stay interested! Stay focused. Stay curious. Stay dedicated.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Enabling, discouraging, or nurturing the neophyte aquarium keeper: A shared responsibility.

Sort of continuing with our recent theme here, about “experts”, advice, opinions, and experience…

I was chatting with a brand spankin’ new aquarist a couple of days ago...I mean- brand new, “untainted-by-the-message-boards-and-super-trendy-aquascaping-gossip” new. Like, “didn’t-have-any-opinion-on-which-LED-system-is-the-best-new”... Like, "didn't-know-what-blackwater-is" new!

Like, "What-does-'Pleco'- mean?" new.

Yeah. That new.

And I’m being generous when I use “aquarist” to describer her, ‘cause she wasn’t!

She was asking me for some advice on what plants and fish she should be keeping in her new tank. Uh-oh...advice. That made me think a bit...Well, a lot, actually. In my hobby and professional career, I have given lots of advice to new hobbyist as many of you have,…

But not to someone this new and well- detached, I guess you could call it.. 

Yeah, detached. Like I new in seconds that she didn't want to enjoy fish as a hobby. Now, I get that, but she was talking about setting up an aquarium as if it were putting together a piece of Ikea furniture- just open the box and slap it together...and instant awesome tank! (although not sure that always applies to the furniture...)

I mean, what a responsibility I had!

She had absolutely no clue on a lot of stuff, not a single clue. Never kept fish before. She just wanted a great-looking tank before Christmas, and kind of thought it was like throwing together a scrapbook: You just toss a few things together and it’s ready to impress everyone. She literally sent me photoshopped pins of tanks from some page on Pinterest and asked how to get that. 

Yikes.

(I want it...NOW!")

Most discouraging to me was her desire to “impress” her friends and visitors to her home with how cool her new aquarium would look. This of course, raise the “red flag” for me, a hardcore hobbyist...Was she in it for the wrong reasons? Did she even give a darn about the animals that would be under her care?  And, is it my place to judge? 

I thought that she would be an ideal candidate for an aquarium maintenance company, so at least her animals could be looked after by someone who knew what he/she was doing...Yet she would have NONE of that! SHE wanted to be "in charge" of the tank.

Well, I could at least relate to that.

However, when she PM'd me and shared pics of random fishes and plants and such, from widely divergent environments, with huge compatibility issues that in no way belonged together, I formulated my response:

“I think before you start this project, you should arm yourself with a good book, visit the aquarium of an experienced hobbyist, hang out at the local fish store,  and educate yourself on the fundamentals of aquatic husbandry..Your chances for success are much greater with some education and fundamentals”

Oh, that didn’t go over well at ALL:  “Do you think that I am stupid?” (well, yes, now that you mention it...).  She literally said that. Turned on me in a second! She was very insulted that I would suggest anything other than a bunch of random specimens and a nod of approval for the “stocking plan” she proposed for her tank. She gave no indications whatsoever of having even the remotest amount of interest in actually caring for the fish, and quite frankly, I was annoyed at her attitude that she could just ignore the realities of owning an aquarium, skip over the learning process, and get whatever she wanted because she had a few bucks to spend.

In the ended, we parted ways with me reiterating my advice to get some background before proceeding. I know that fell on deaf ears...

(No shortcuts to this destination...)

Happily, this lady belonged to a very small minority of persons (lets just call them what they are, based on their attitude:  idiots) who enter into the aquarium world with nothing more than arrogance and lots of cash, and no regard for the lives of the animals under their care. Look, I’m not saying that you have to be a hardcore, fish-breeding, super-glue-your-coral-frags-loving, multiple cichlid-breeding, central-filtration-system-fishroom-owning, skimmer-cleaning fish geek to keep an aquarium.

What I AM saying is that you should at least have some fundamental knowledge of aquatic biology and the needs of reef animals, and even a dose of compassion. You certainly wouldn’t buy a puppy or kitten without knowing how to feed it and keep it healthy, so why are fishes and corals such an easy target for people like this? 

Dunno. 

I mean, is it our fault as a hobby- desperate to get new blood into our community? Is it the industry, trying to stir up new opportunities? 

I mean, getting new hobbyists into the game is always a good thing. Getting someone who has no feelings or passion for the life forms and the responsibility that accompanies keeping them is- well- totally different. You just usually can't "turn" a person like that, right?

Not in my experience.

Ok, I’m preaching to the choir here, but we’re a community, so this has some therapeutic value for me…LOL

And perhaps you encounter this attitude yourselves- so we in the hobby have a sort of “duty” to spread the right messages, IMHO.

What I do know is that if someone doesn’t want to take our good advice, there is little we can do except to discourage them from keeping an aquarium. That was literally my best advice to her...I suppose even that well-intended advice comes across as arrogant...

My other best advice for anyone is to not take anyone’s advice as the last word on the subject. Take any and all advice on aquariums with a grain of salt, regardless of who it comes from. Be skeptical. Read. Discuss. Listen. Ask questions. Most important, make up your own mind...think things through so that you have a clear understanding. But, you know that already.

However, even if you know you are right, never, ever be arrogant. And if you are not right, admit it freely and move on. Others can learn from your mistakes just as easily as your successes...no big deal.

I think there was little else I could do to reach this person than what was said in our exchanges. She would have none of it. It's different with an engaged, interested, new aquarist who wants to learn...What would your best advice be to a new aquarist? Is there one solid, fundamental piece of advice that you could offer to someone just starting out? Someone with genuine interest in aquarium keeping? 

Let’s hear it!

Stay focused. Stay engaged. Stay patient. Stay diligent.  Stay honest...

And Stay Wet,

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

The "Biotope Aquarium Conundrum": Splitting hairs, raising awareness, and coming to a consensus...

A little while back, I had a member of our community ask if I cared to comment on what I thought about the idea of "biotope" aquariums. Specifically, what I thought the definition of a "biotope aquarium" should be, and how I feel our aquatic botanicals would fit into the currently accepted definition of "biotope aquarium" - and how this plays into the bonging narrative on this surprisingly controversial hobby topic. (lol- the stuff which stresses us, right?)

Of course, being the every-wary fish geek and aquatic entrepreneur...I sensed...a trap! And of course, being opinionated and transparent with my feelings, I felt compelled to at least throw my thoughts out there.

I mean, he asked, right?

Yup. 

This kind of question/discussion/debate is one of those ones where there is no "right" or "wrong" answer, really. It's the kind that gets you to take a stand that is guaranteed to tick off at least 50% of the hobby community no matter how you answer it. I mean, one could argue that there are some strict "definitions" as laid out by....Um, well...buy...umm... well...

Okay, as laid out by those who oversee contests and such, maybe?

I mean, to go against the prevailing thought in this area is not particularly advantageous, nor is it really necessary. I mean, if you look at the strict definition of the word "biotope", according to Wikipedia (as good a source as any, IMHO) it's this:

A biotope is an area of uniform environmental conditions providing a living place for a specific assemblage of plants and animals. Biotope is almost synonymous with the term habitat, which is more commonly used in English-speaking countries. ... The word biotope, literally translated, means an "area where life lives".

Okay, that's pretty good. 

So, by that definition, translated into the aquarium world, a biotope is anywhere you have a set of environmental conditions (physical, chemical, etc.) for a specific fish or group of fishes. This can be regional, ecological, etc.

Seems straightforward enough to me. 

So why does everyone have such a freakin' COW whenever the discussion turns to what constitutes a "biotope aquarium?" I mean, it's pretty straightforward there. Now, you can split hairs and get seriously hardcore about it, like they do in some contests.

The Biotope Aquarium Design Contest does a really great job of defining what they feel a biotope aquarium is, and what criteria they use to evaluate such displays. They even discuss the species, geographic, and ecological categorization of "biotope" aquariums, and provide a pretty good "track to run on" for anyone who wants to enter their contest and be evaluated under those criteria.

That being said, there are always the discussions that ensue when the winners of contests are announced, or when someone presents their "biotope aquarium" to others in a forum, club meeting, etc. People feel angered, slighted, vindicated, or whatever- depending upon what side of the debate they fall on.

We get really worked up; really pissy about this shit. It's kind of fun to watch from afar, actually. It shows the level of passion and commitment to the "art and science" that our hobby community has. At the end of the day, I think that everyone can and should put aside their interpretive differences and come to an agreement that just about any aquarium intended to replicate- on some level- a specific wild habitat, ecological niche, or area where a certain fish or fishes are found- is hugely important. Why? Because it calls attention to the habitats and environments themselves. It creates a starting point for discussion, research, debate...It raises awareness of the challenges that many habitats face with the encroachment of man's activities. It most certainly makes us appreciate the fragility of life- the genius of nature, and the incredible diversity and beauty of our home planet.

That's really not up for argument, IMHO.

Even the most poorly executed (by "contest" standards", anyways) "biotope" aquarium helps the uninitiated public (or even the hobby community, for that matter) to become just a tad more enlightened about nature. It might just stimulate someone, somewhere to ask themselves, "Is that what it's like in The Atabapo?" And maybe, just maybe, they'll open up the iPad and do a little reading on the habitat that was being discussed...Maybe they'll take a crack at creating a representation of this habitat themselves. Maybe they will research and find and donate to an organization out there that is working to protect it. 

It's all good, IMHO.

Now, back to where I stand...

Sure, I have no issue with any of those standards for a biotope aquarium. They are all logical and well thought out. Where I take issue- like so many things in this hobby- is with attitudes. I mean, I've had people "call out" others because one of the leaves or whatever in a "Rio____ biotope aquarium" is not endemic to the region, or whatever. Okay, I get your thinking, but really...

Even with the contest winners, you can take this attitude and nitpick to the "nth degree":

I mean, what about the substrate? Is it absolutely Rio Negro region "podzol" from the Andes? Is every species of wood used in the tank form the surrounding varzea forest? Is every freaking bacteria, fungi, Paramecium, etc. the exact species that comes from the region being represented?

Huh? Is it? 

Can these armchair critics really discern the decomposing leaf of Hevea brasiliensis, Swietenia macrophylla, or Euterpe precatoria from Catappa, Guava, Jackfruit, Apple, Oak, etc? I mean, seriously? And, if someone cannot source these specific Amazonian leaves, does that invalidate the aquarium from consideration as a "biotope aquarium?"

Does it even matter?

Whew, I AM getting worked up here, lol.

Again, it's the self-righteous attitudes surrounding these kinds of things that drive me crazy...

The point of my rant is that I think we all want the same thing. We all want to represent. as accurately and faithfully as possible, the biopic niches we're into. And that is incredibly cool! But when we get caught up in semantics and petty arguments for the sake of...well, for the sake of "being right"- who does this help? Who does it hurt? Doesn't this kind of criticism hurt those who are in a unique position to use their aquarium hobby talents to maybe, MAYBE reach a few non-hobbyists with their beautiful tank...perhaps raising awareness of the plight of that Borneo peat swamp or African flood plain? Does it discourage them from trying again in the future and sharing their work with the world?

Yeah. I think it does. And that sucks.

We need to lose the attitude on this topic.

I think many aquariums can be accurately labeled "biotope-inspired" or "biotope-style" aquarium. I think a lot of the cool work our community does is at that level. There is nothing wrong with that at all.

I mean, sure, one could say I'm a bit biased because I own a company which offers natural materials from around the world to enable hobbyists to replicate -at least on some level- the aesthetics- and more important- some of the function- of various aquatic habitats from around the world, and that I want to justify offering stuff that merely "represents" the materials found in the ______ region.

I'll give you that.

And yeah, my orientation- my personal passion- the passion which led me to found Tannin Aquatics- was to curate, love, and offer my fellow hobbyists the natural materials they can use to create inspiring and compelling natural-style aquariums. To what level of authenticity we all aspire to is the choice of each one of us as individuals.

Now, the problem is, you "can't always get what you want."

Much as I'd love to offer the leaves of the Hevea basiliensis or whatever, some materials aren't always-or ever- available. One could even make the argument that collecting some items would damage the very habitats that they come from. Some governments forbid or severely restrict the export of certain botanical materials- even fallen, dried leaves. Many of the materials we source are only available because they are a bi-product of agriculture or other domestic activities-many of which are (fortunately), sustainable and eco-sensitive. For example, many of our leaves and pods are from family farms, which grow fruit or utilize the leaves or seed pods for other purposes as well.

We are constantly researching new stuff and testing it and adding it to our collection. Look forward to some entirely new leaves and botanicals from Tannin in 2018! (shameless plug- couldn't resist!)

Okay, I clarified my position on the topic, and hopefully, answered this guy's question in one fell swoop! (and probably ticked off some people too.) YES! That's what I call a complete day...

Oh, I'm digressing just a bit here...

Anyways, the point is that we sometimes have to understand, in our haste to judge or criticize the work of others as being "inaccurate", that they are attempting to represent, as much as possible, a specific habitat with the materials available to them. 

And they're doing an amazing job for the most part.

Sure, if you want to judge things on the basis of being absolutely 100% faithful to the flora and fauna of a specific habitat or geographic region, a lot of these tanks will "fall short." On the other hand, if you want to accept them as representations of certain habitats- most are spectacularly accurate and compelling in every way- inspiring, educating, and provoking discussion about the  habitat they attempt to represent.

Total win.

Now, I have no negative feelings at all towards those who want 100% (or somewhere approaching that number) accuracy for the aquariums they work with. We should always try to pursue our own version of "perfection." To that end, we've embarked on an effort to curate very regionally-biotopically-accurate collections of botanicals for hobbyists interested in extremely authentic replications.

I've been fortunate enough to have done some work with Chris Englezou, who has an extraordinary level of commitment to studying, replicating, and preserving precious aquatic habitats worldwide. I've learned a ton from his dedication to accuracy, and his commitment to this most worthy cause. His blogs are AMAZING, and if you're even slightly interested in biotope-style aquariums, they are a MUST read!

Starting in January, we'll be releasing some specially researched and curated botanical packs in our  upcoming"Biotope by Tannin Aquatics" section. A portion of the proceeds from the sales of  these packs will benefit Chris' charity, The Freshwater Life Project. 

Exciting, compelling, and educational. 

Those words can-and should-apply to most any aquarium or aquatic display we create. And they do, for the most part. So, regardless of what we label it "biotope aquarium", "natural-style aquarium", "biotope-inspired", etc.- our collective love for and commitment to the craft of creating inspiring aquariums is almost a constant; a "given."

Yeah, we're all THAT good. 

Sometimes, I like to kick the aquarium communitiy in its ass. Sometimes, I like to give it a big hug, send some props its way. 

Today, I think we did both.

It's honest. It's emotional. It's heartfelt. It's how I feel.

And I wouldn't have it any other way.

Nor should you.

Stay bold. Stay committed. Stay kind to each other. Stay curious. Stay passionate...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Botanical Style Brackish aquarium and the "mental shift"- Perhaps a "manifesto' of sorts. And an invitation to innovate!

One of the great things about being a sort of "hub" or "nexus" for this growing botanical-style aquarium "movement" is that we get to hear about all sorts of new projects people are starting- and field any number of questions on a variety of topics related to this stuff...Can it get any better for a fish geek like me? I think not!

Excitingly, we're starting to see a surge in interest about our vision for a brackish-water botanical-style aquarium. You know, one that eschews the long-standing tradition of "crystal-clear water", rocks, and pure white sand-in favor of a more realistic, "natural-style"  approach, featuring muddy substrates, real mangrove wood, live mangroves, brackish-tolerant plants, mangrove leaf litter, and botanicals. Tinted water, deep substrates, and a heavy bioload of decomposing botanical materials.

Yeah, right up our proverbial "alley!"

And of course, we receive a fair number of questions asking about the nuances of starting and managing such a system in this fashion. The reality-just like it was in the blackwater world a few years back-is that it's not "daunting" or "dangerous" to set up a system in this fashion. It's just...different. And it requires an understanding of what is going on, a willingness to explore some new ideas, and a desire to (literally) help chart a course in a fairly new direction. The more you research, the more you'll find both scholarly information on wild mangrove estuary-type habitats, and lots of practical information from the aquarium world (the reef-keeping world, in particular) on working with stuff like substrates, water quality management, maintaining specific gravity, etc. 

Now, like so many other things we do in the hobby, a brackish tank can be as simple or complex as you'd like to make it...The basic idea- a tank with lower specific gravity (like 1.003-1.008) than seawater- is pretty straightforward...Just add salt...LOL Now, there are some aspects to maintaining a consistent specific gravity (like regular freshwater top-off, etc.) and alkalinity that you need to familiarize yourself with, but it's fairly straightforward. A lot out there on that. The reality is that one of the most important aspects of marine (and by extension, brackish) aquarium husbandry is that environmental consistency is extremely important. Probably the two best "freshwater" examples of this that come to mind immediately are Rift Lake cichlid tanks and...oh, botannical-style blackwater aquariums (BSBW)!

So, the first "lesson" when embracing on a botanical-style brackish aquarium endeavor is to accept that fact that you will HAVE to conduct regular water exchanges (like, I"m thinking weekly). They're the best way to remove chemical impurities that are not easily removed by other means. As a reefer, like many of you- I'm intimately familiar with the concept that accumulating organics (specifically, compounds like phosphate) are known to inhibit calcification in corals, and the idea of exporting them is fundamental. Now, we're not growing coral in a brackish tank, but some of the concepts from reef keeping will serve you well. In my opinion, embarking on a brackish-water, botanical-style aquarium build requires that you at least have a working familiarity with some basic aspects of marine/reef aquarium dynamics and management. It's fascinating, relatable, and will give you a definite "edge."

(And don't think that I'm not contemplating a "tinted" mangrove-themed reef tank in the near future)

Now, you'll notice that, by intention, this piece is kind of "light" on specific procedure/tactics and such, because the very first step in creating one of these tanks is to simply understand what we're thinking about here, to get excited about the idea-and to visualize why it's different, dynamic, and can be very successful. I've been playing with these types of aquairums- these concepts- for decades. I've made a few mistakes along the way, but I can honestly say that I've never had any real "disasters" that were irreversible. It was just a matter of understanding what was going on in my tanks and how to work with it. It's about working with natural processes rather than fearing them. Stuff we've been through before, right? 

Our idea is for a "botanical-style" brackish tank, which mimics the dynamic, rich estuary environments of the tropical regions. There are a lot of processes at work in these habitats, ranging from tidal changes (and accompanying salinity swings) to nutrient processing, which are both fascinating and compelling, and can be mimicked, to some extent in a closed system (i.e.; your tank!). Just how far depends upon our willingness to experiment and tinker and analyze.

(Shameless plug...well, it IS my blog, right?)

Our concept incorporates leaf litter, mangrove roots, and some tinted water..it embraces the diversity of life forms (including algae and small crustaceans) which thrive in these environments. It involves the biofilms and detritus and other things that we've been familiar with in our blackwater, botanical-style work. It's a lot different from the more "sterile" brackish concept that's been around for a long time, but in our opinion, more realistic. Sure, more challenging (with the added aspect of the leaves and such), but dynamic and interesting. Filled with potential to unlock a lot of secrets about both these compelling ecosystems and the organisms which reside there. Could you screw up and make an algae-filled mess? Of course. Could you end up with a wildly unstable tank that grows more biofilms than fishes? Quite possible. 

Could you end up spawning Monos, gobies, and other fishes? Yup.

(The humble "Bumblebee Goby"- pic by Ted Judy!)

Risk/reward at its finest!

And sure,  I can envision a lot of "armchair critics" citing a recipe for "disaster", with concerns about "aerobic conditions", "pH crashes", and all of the usual "caveats" that have been hurled at us from our BWBS aquarium work...typically by people who have never even attempted such stuff. It can be lonely, even discouraging- when you're trying to do something that flies in the face of what is "conventional." So yeah, the very first step in approaching things this way is to free your mind from the noise that's out there. To open up yourself to the process, and to...DO. To make your decisions based upon what you're observing in your tanks; to draw upon your experience in other aquaristic endeavors, and to utilize your judgement and instincts. You need to make that famous "mental shift" like you did when you started with blackwater, and understand that all sorts of "stuff" can work- if you understand the specifics of what you're doing and don't let the criticism and "advice" from those who might try to deter you because it's different than what they know.

Yeah, it could seem a bit daunting at first, but like so many other specialty areas of the hobby, it's about doing that front end research and understanding the dynamics. Saltwater systems (full strength marine or brackish) are dynamic environments with a bunch of variables that you need to contend with in order to keep them stable. Brackish fishes are pretty tough for the most part, in that they have to adapt to changing parameters in their tidal environments. That being said, we are "kicking it up a notch", complexity-wise, by adding the element of decomposing botanicals, wood, and muddy, silted substrates...Definitely a new take on this, and it requires-if not experience- just good fundamental aquarium management, observation, a wealth of patience-and the ability to adjust quickly based on changes...A few more "moving parts", but we think far more interesting than the current "popular" take on brackish!

You'll be working with some materials that are familiar to you, like leaves, botanicals, and wood- as well as some items which, although perhaps different in composition- like marine-sediment/mud and aragonite-based substrates-are analogous to stuff you know from the freshwater planted world and the nutritive substrates that are played with by thousands of hobbyists every day. Your just sort of applying some of those ideas to a new "medium", if you will. There are a number of marine sediment-type products out there which can help form the literal base of your brackish water aquarium. They will provide not only the proper physical "structure" for this type of system- they will also provide an influx of minerals and trace elements, and provide some pH/alkalinity support.

It IS a bit of a strange dynamic, because on one hand you're working with marine salt and buffering substrates, while simultaneously introducing materials like wood and leaves, which can pull down the pH a bit. A real sort of "tug of war", if you will. And I believe you'll find what I have over the years: These tanks will "sort themselves out" and "find" their "operating range" once you get them set up and engage in consistent husbandry procedures (i.e.; water exchanges, etc.). It requires regular water testing, lots of observation...and patience. All skills which every one of us possesses.

Just like it is in the BWBS world, nature will impose some limits to what you can and cannot do in a closed system. There may be a limit to (for example) how much botanical material your tanks will tolerate before the parameters fluctuate excessively, or before algae grows faster than plants- or whatever. But rather than make sweeping generalizations ("add 'X' amount of this stuff 3 times a week"), you'll arrive at "customized" solutions for your system, and help construct "best practices" for managing brackish water/botanical-style tanks.

(Yes, I'm finally getting this damn tank wet...more to follow!)

By not being afraid to go "off-road" a bit, you'll be helping pave the way for others who will follow-just like we're doing with the blackwater, botanical-style aquariums- so that, in the very near future, this type of aquarium will not be perceived by the hobby in general as some sort of "side-show stunt", but just another approach to managing a unique natural aquarium. It's "open-source", and you're invited to contribute. You'll be helping to "write the code" as they say in Silicon Valley. 

Horrified? Turned off?  Or excited, intrigued, and motivated?

Stay brave. Stay fascinated. Stay observant. Stay independent...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

How come there are no rocks in the igapo? (And other nagging questions...)

Yes, some of us have this strange obsession with blackwater, botanical-style aquariums- and have this desire to replicate some of the aesthetics, form, and function of the natural igapo seasonally-inundated forests of Amazonia. (Maybe it's just me...but you're already here...so read on, okay? ) We are often faced with a bunch of questions about how to represent them in aquariums. Today, I address two of the ones I've had for a long time, and judging by the number of inquiries we receive- so have many of you (well, many of you who play with this arcane sort of stuff, anyways!)...And, like so many of the topics we discuss here, the "answers" are sometimes less than satisfying, often leading to more questions! 

How come you don't see rocks in those pics of the igapo inundated forests?

Oh, this is a good one...

The "whitewater" rivers rush quickly down from the mountains of Peru and Bolivia, too rapidly for clay and silt to be stripped from them. The rocks from these mountainous areas offer minerals and nutrients such as nitrogen, attached to the silt and clay, and minerals like illite, montmorillomite (hey, we know that one from shrimp geeks!), and chlorite, to nourish the lower-lying areas. In these areas, numerous microbes and plants consume some of the nitrogen, and while eaten by other organisms, convey what's left to the even lower-lying forest habitats. The Amazonian blackwater rivers are largely depleted in nutrients, having passed through the lowland forest soils as groundwater, from which weathering has already occurred. "Hydro-geomorphic processes" ( i.e.; a fancy way of referring to part of the stuff that makes rocks!) are far less intense than they are in the upland, mountainous regions, with their abundance of minerals, nutrients, slits, and sediments.

In other words, most low-lying Amazonian forest soils are really low in nutrients. The soils are nutrient-poor, acidic "podzols..." It's been suggested that most of the available nutrients are taken up by the root mats of the dense plant growth in these forested areas. And even the rainwater provides little in the way of nutrient for the plants which grow there. However, what little nutrient there is typically returns to the soils by means of leaf drop from the trees which grow there. And of course, when the water returns to the forest floors, what little nutrient remains is released into the waters, too. And it's quickly utilized by the resident microorganisms. Serious nutrient cycling, right?

I'm no expert-or even a novice- on geology or geochemistry, or anything in that subject area, for that matter....However, based on my research into this stuff, it goes without saying that these are hardly conditions under which rocks as we know them could form. You might find the random rock in the igapo that was washed down from the Andes or some other high-country locale in these forests, but it did not evolve there. This also helps to explain why the blackwater habitats are generally low in inorganic nutrients and minerals, right? 

So...if you're really, really hardcore into replicating an igapo, you'd probably want to exclude rocks...

What kinds of plants are coming from blackwater habitats? And shouldn't I be able to keep them?

Well, let's tackle the second part of the question first. I mean, I'm no plant expert, and could easily be schooled by even the most novice-level serious aquatic plant geek, but here is my thinking: First off, you're right...some plants should be able to do well in a blackwater aquarium. I mean, in nature, they're often found in extremely low nutrient, low pH environments. Our blackwater aquariums seem to be largely devoid of carbonate hardness (if we're using RO/DI water), and minimal sources of carbon for "fertilizer..."

In these low-pH habitats, CO2 is the real source of inorganic carbon (which plants seem to love, right?), so you'd think that certain plants would love this. And they do, in my experience! Well, perhaps not all of 'em LOVE it, but many "tolerate" it...A hardcore planted-tank person, with a "primary motivation" to create a blackwater planted tank, may not like my approach or attitude, but for those of us who have made the "planted" aspect somewhat lower on the priority scale than other aspects of the tank, it's pretty good... :)

Many Cryptocoryne, for example, come from very low pH, low nutrient habitats (like 4.0-5.5). Based on my personal experience with plants like Myriophyllum, Cabomba, Cryptocoryne, Tonina, Anubias, Polygonum "sp. Kawagoeanum", and others, I'd say that, with good nutritive substrates (like the ones made for planted tanks, or a "dirted" substrate you can create, or even one that's influenced by "botanical mulch" (Cory Hopkins- calling on YOU! ), there is potential for more plants to grow in these systems.

I'm leaning towards those rich substrates...CO2 can be "preserved" with minimal surface agitation, so you might be able to "cheat" a bit and avoid having to inject it.  Light intensity is another part of the equation, and with the dark, tinted water, you need to get some decent lighting in there (LED's are my personal weapon of choice).  

Some known residents of the igapo waters? Well, there are just a few that I was able to locate: Polygonum, Azolla, Pistia, Salvinia, Ceratopterus, and a few other "floaters." 

In my own "ignorance bubble", I make the "coral farmer's analogy', in which I've found over the years that you can compensate somewhat for lower light by providing other parts of the equation (like nutrients, trace elements, and food) and get good growth. Yes, hardly scientific, shockingly speculative...but it worked. And based on my (admittedly limited) experience with plants in blackwater, botanical-style tanks, I'd say it works in these situations, too. Now, I admit, I've never gotten the lush, full look of those clearwater, gnarly high-tech planted tank you see splashed all over social media...but I have gotten some growth, and am willing to sacrifice some of the "epic" growth for love of the entire blackwater aquarium- of which plants are merely a "minor component"  to me (I Know, I just lost the respect of every aquatic plant lover out there- but hey...honesty, right?)

The reality is that many of the (South American) habitats which we play with simply don't have much in the way of true aquatic plants in them. For example, the igapo flooded forests and small streams just don't have much more than epiphytic algae and submerged terrestrial plants in them.  I think it's more of a matter of trying various plants which tend to come from lower ph, blackwater habitats, and applying these ideas to their care. My list is ridiculously superficial, of course- so you hardcore plant people will have to take the flag and run with this!

(The Uakari is the de facto expert on igapo vegetation!)

Now, my other "challenge' to plant lovers in general: Let's figure out which terrestrial plants can tolerate/grow/thrive under submerged or partially submerged (blackwater) conditions. Perhaps a more "realistic" (not in the hardcore "biotope aquarium contest" context, of course) avenue to explore in this regard?

I've got one tree for you to research...the dominant terrestrial plant in this habitat is Eugenia inundata... Don't think I'm not well underway in my (somewhat futile) efforts to see if we can secure fallen leaves of THIS plant! You'll also find Iriartea setigera, Socratea exorrhiza, Mauritiella aculeata palms in these areas.. Like so many things from the Amazon, it's not easy (read that, damn near impossible) to secure botanical material from this region, so the proverbial "Don't hold your breath waiting for this" comes to mind! Oh, and the submerged grasses we see and drool over in those underwater pics from Mike Tuck and Ivan Mikolji of these habitats? They're typically Paspalum repens and Oryza perennis.

Paspalum is found in North America, too...possibly a species you could obtain?

(Paspalum. Image by Keisyoto. Used under GFDL)

Perhaps you could, right? And it's that kind of stuff that keeps us working away.

And the absence of rocks i nthe igapo? Well, yeah, it's a fact...but I like rocks, so &*^%$ it.

Good attitude, right? :)

On a more serious note- I realize that this discussion probably only opens up more questions, and is a little short on "hard facts" to help you make decisions...but it gets the discussion going, and hopefully, stimulates further investigation by many of you more experienced, highly talented aquarists who make up our amazing community!

Keep asking questions. Keep searching for answers.

Stay engaged. Stay excited. Stay curious. Stay creative. Stay resourceful...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics