The Tint

Managing the Murk: How I learned to stop worrying and love the mud!

As most of you know by now, I'm a huge fan of decomposing botanicals, tinted water, wood covered in biofilms, occasional turbidity, and general accumulations of botanical detritus in my tanks. I've learned not to freak out about it; rather, to embrace this stuff as part of the "functional aesthetics" of the botanical-style aquarium.

Often, the decisions we make at the earliest phases of setting up our tanks will create impact many weeks or months down the line...Sort of like little "Easter Eggs"- things occur long after we start up our aquariums- which fundamentally surprise/delight/frighten us as they show up and influence the aesthetics and function of our tanks!

It's part of the game.

Reefers see this when coralline algae grows on exposed surfaces, or when macro algae or "hitchhiking" corals unexpectedly sprout from live rock months after the aquarium is established. Planted aquarium people experience similar surprises when that long-forgotten stem of (insert plant you though died off here) suddenly sprouts forward, seemingly from nothing, to grace your aquascape. 

Occasionally, seemingly negative things happen- such as unexpected micro algae/diatom blooms ("Hmm, I guess that piece of rock DID have a crap-load of phosphate in it after all!"), plant growth patterns, water-flow issues (setting that big piece of dogwood in the corner by the filter return seemed like a really good idea at the time...). Sometimes it's because of something we never thought about. Other times, it's a direct result of the decisions we made when we set up the tank.

And of course, when you're dealing with the impact of these things, you're faced with two basic choices:

"Correct" them...or live with them.

Now, "corrections" sometimes are extremely difficult, involving a dismantling of infrastructure or aquascaping to effect the change you want.  And they may not always garner the desired result right from the start. Other times, it's as simple as moving that piece of rock out of the way. Usually, it's somewhere in between. And of course, all of those little changes may impact the look and function of your tank- usually for the better...but not always- right?

And if you decide to simply "leave it alone" and "deal with" the consequences, there are two possible outcomes: 1) Your tank will never function as you envisioned it, and the problems caused by the issue will simply increase  OR,  2) The aquarium will "correct itself" and evolve to a better place with minimal intervention on your part (often just continuing maintenance practices or whatever that you're already doing...).

Long preamble to reach a recent personal example, but here's one for you:

As you no doubt have seen by now, I finally set up my brackish water/botanical-style mangrove habitat aquarium. It's been a really fun project, and it is great to see it evolving along.

When I first started, one of my "must haves" was the inclusion of "biosediment"/mud i the substrate mix. Now, I knew that, since I wasn't initially planting the substrate with rooted, brackish-tolerant aquatics, like Cryptocoryne ciliata, that the substrate would serve little purpose initially (until the prop roots of my mangrove propagules "touched down" into it months after the tank was established), other than to "enrich" the overall ecosystem of the tank. 

Okay, "enrich" is one of those deliberately vague "buzz words" I love to play with...I mean, WTF does it really mean? Well, I like to think that it means that it will impart minerals and organics to the water which would foster the growth of bacteria, beneficial microorganisms, and potentially, some small crustaceans which would help establish a little "food web" in my tank.

Now, curiously, it seems to have done some of that! I've seen an interesting explosion of small life forms. And the addition of mangrove leaf litter has no doubt assisted in fostering this. The small life forms in the substrate region seem to have been busy breaking down the leaves and other matters into a rich "compost" of sorts. Although there isn't very much of this visible in the tank, it's there- and the Olive Nerites snails which I've populated the tank with have certainly seemed to appreciate this "diversity", and spend much time grazing on the substrate! 

The other wild card, if you will, was the inclusion of mangrove root and branches into the hardscape. Both of these materials will impart organic materials into the water. Quite frankly, even though I love the stuff, I personally believe that mangrove root wood is really "dirty"- and you'll see a release of "stuff" locked up in the wood tissues over time that is different than that I've experienced with other types of woods we use in aquariums.

Of course, with all of the "functional benefits" of these kinds of materials, you'll also experience some stuff which challenges your long-held aesthetic beliefs about what a "successful" aquarium looks like. In the same manner in which leaves and botanicals get covered in biofilms and break down, "dirty" wood and rich substrates can do their own "editing" to your tank's look

I focused on the substrate in this situation as the source of this cloudiness.

I used a mix of several materials, such as marine biosediment, CaribSea "Refugium Mineral Mud", "Miracle Mud", and even a touch of pond soil, capped by some dark fracted clay substrate...perhaps not enough of it- a mix you'd definitely be interested in if you're growing aquatic plants- but a substrate which, if disturbed, is almost certainly a recipe for some cloudy water! 

And that's exactly what I experienced. I realized that my inclusion of an external Vortech MP10 pump to create "intelligent" water movement at every level of the tank would no doubt disturb the substrate a bit. Combined with the activities of some bottom-dwelling fishes like Bumblebee Gobies and the slow "excavating" on the surface of the substrate done by the snails, it was a certain recipe for...some turbidity- cloudiness, if you will.

It's something I kind of knew would be an issue going into this setup. I mean, not completely positive, but pretty certain. And quite frankly, I wasn't 100% convinced how long it would last, or if it would ever go away. I mean, it's a fairly deep substrate in some parts...so that's a big "supply" of sediments that could potentially cloud the water. As a long-time reefer, I always thought about crystal clarity of water as being a sort of "measure" of overall water quality...which, of course, isn't really a complete story. You can have turbidity and high water quality, right?

Depends what's causing it.

And besides, I needed to see what it was that was causing the cloudiness, and what impact on water quality it was having.

So, what to do? How to cope with this?

Well, it was pretty straightforward to me: First, ascertain exactly what was going on. I did the "sniff test" to see if one of those obvious and classic "bad news" scenarios of bacterial blooms or other pollution is immediately apparent.

Nope. No smell!

Now, I've been in the game long enough to know that smell isn't the whole game, so a full "suite" of basic water testing (pH, nitrite/ammonia/nitrate/phosphates) was undertaken...The results were no nitrite and ammonia, and virtually undetectable nitrate and phosphate. The latter two are generally agreed to be a good "biological yardstick" of aquarium water quality, so it kind of made sense.

And I kind of figured that was the case.

I felt that it was a direct result of the decision to include very fine sediments/mud in my substrate mix.  Now, you could look at the potential "negatives" of this turbidity (umm, mainly that it looks kind of...well, shitty to many!) and think that this is a huge problem. Or, you could embrace it- much like we do in our blackwater/botanical-style aquariums with their "look"- as part of the "functional aesthetics" of a rich, active substrate in a dynamically-evolving aquarium. These episodes seem to wax and wane over time, too.

If you look at some of the surface level and underwater photos of mangrove habitats in nature, you'll see this similar "haziness" as well. Now, not all of these environments feature this haze, and an aquarium is a closed system without the benefit of trillions of liters of water for dissolution- but the analog is, ahem- clear to me!

And curiously, I've noticed these kinds of phenomenon before in my aquariums which utilized mud-based substrates. And often, the cloudiness dissipates over time. It could be sediments...it could also be a bloom of microorganisms which are flourishing in in the water as a result of the organic materials from this sediment. Obviously, a micro-assay or other more focused study would be far more conclusive.

However, I think that the critical part of this equation is how we think about this stuff and accept it into the "big picture" of the management and "lifetime" of our aquarium systems- and how we react!

In my situation, the options I had were pretty straightforward: I could flat-out dismantle the aquarium and re-set it without mud. Totally unacceptable to me. Or, I could keep the system running and continue to do regular water exchanges, utilize micron filter socks, and chemical filtration media. Essentially, dong "nothing different" to address the issue. Consistency. Patience. Acceptance.

And that's what I did. I kept doing what I was doing. And interestingly, the cloudiness subsided substantially after about a week. Kind of like I thought it might.

Go figure.

So, the short point of this long-winded and meandering discourse is that you will often experience "stuff" in our botanical-style aquariums which requires us to make a bunch of mental shifts, acceptances or other changes in our thinking. An ability to release ourselves from the expectations and preconceptions that we've cultivated in the hobby for generations is required when you're playing in unconventional areas. 

Or, you can break stuff down and start over.

It's a choice.

And a personal one, at that.

This was a quick look at how I learned to stop worrying and love the mud. 

Stay bold. Stay engaged. Stay consistent. Stay curious...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Breaking down the stuff that breaks down in our tanks...

A lot of hobbyists ask me about maintenance of blackwater/botanical-style aquariums...We are at a phase in the BWBS "evolution" that is creating some real "technique"- and that's pretty exciting!

Siphoning detritus is a sort of "thing" that we are asked about near constantly. Now, the idea of "detritus" or "stuff" takes on different meanings in our botanical-style aquariums...Our "aquarium definition of "detritus" is typically agreed to be dead particulate matter, including fecal material, dead organisms, mucous, etc. And bacteria and other microorganisms will colonize this stuff and decompose/remineralize it, essentially "competing" the cycle.

In the reef aquarium world, where I have operated for decades, you'll see a lot of hobbyists freak out about "detritus" and such accumulating in the aquarium, and they blame filter socks and media for all sorts of problems in their aquariums. I understand this concern for water quality, but I think it sort of places emphasis on the wrong part of the equation; that is, what exactly is accumulating, and why? Uneaten food? Bad! Need to be more careful here. Fish waste? Unavoidable to some extent (unless you lower population density/food inputs).

You get the idea...

I think it's all relative, though. 

In a botanical-style blackwater aquarium, we tend to see a fair amount of fine "bits and pieces" of decomposing leaves and botanicals accumulate in our mechanical filter media. Funny thing to me is that this stuff, although somewhat unsightly if allowed to accumulate in the aquarium, seldom is seen doing such. And, it's just sort of "there", if you know what I mean. And, other than potentially being visually distracting, this material is not really detrimental- I mean, you want it in your system (at least in its "original" form).  It's what imparts the tannins, humic substances, and other desirable compounds into our water.

And is it really that "unsightly?"

I'm not completely convinced that it is. The look of the broken-down botanical material isn't beloved by everyone, but it IS a natural thing, right?

Well,  If it's uneaten food, on the other hand, you need to figure out a more accurate feeding approach. "Detritus" in general, in my opinion, gets a kind of a bad rap, as the bulk of it is really broken down already by the time it accumulates. Sure, in systems with large, predatory cichlids and messy eaters, you're likely to see a lot more than you would in a lightly-stocked tank with say, Endler's Livebearers, small Rasbora, or Gouramis, but still...do most of us really overfeed THAT much?

I don't think so.

Of course, if you see uneaten food and such accumulating in your tank, it looks crappy. However, do you have phosphate or nitrate issues as a result of accumulating organics from this stuff, or is some of it- enough of it- being utilized by bacteria and other "unseen residents" of your tank that it's not really a "problem" from an environmental standpoint?

Regular water exchanges are a great way to keep this balance, as you've no doubt have had beaten into your head since your aquarium-keeping "infancy." And sure, you need to test your water to get a "snapshot" of what's happening in your tank.

The basics.

So...we're back to the beginning, yet again.

Is "detritus"- menace or benefit? Or perhaps, something in between? Like biofilms, fungal growth, aufwuchs, and decomposition- is it something that is inevitable, natural- perhaps even beneficial in our aquariums? Or, is it something that we should learn to embrace and appreciate? All part of a natural process and yes- aesthetic- that we have to understand to appreciate?

My personal thoughts? Keep it clean, but don't get overly concerned about the material breaking down in your tank. Take it out...leave it in...it's your call.

Embrace the natural process which occur in your system. 

Simple thought for today.

Stay curious. Stay bold. Stay excited. Stay methodical.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Did you forget something? Or are you just letting Nature do her thing?

Continuing in our theme of late, celebrating working with Nature...

As a lifelong hobbyist, I've personally been through periods of time when I couldn't devote as much time  to my beloved fish tanks...Yet I always had one- fresh, salt, or otherwise. It's just not "home" unless you hear the reassuring popping of bubbles, whirring of pumps, and see the beautiful reflections caused by the interplay of light and moving water.

Of course, there were a number of times that, for one reason or another, I simply let the tanks "run themselves", save an occasional water change or filter media cleaning, and of course, regular feeding (that consisted of tossing in a few flakes or pellets, or whatever was on hand at the time).

You know, Mother Nature in control!

A particularly fond memory of this type of  "practice" comes from my Senior year in high school, when I was seriously into breeding killies (in addition to keeping saltwater, cichlids, tetras, and of course, the usual high school pursuits of girls, sports, and socializing). As a junior AKA member, I obtained a group of the "Clown Killie", Epiplatys annulatus Monroviae, and was determined to breed the little buggers.

Of course, they always had a reputation for being just a bit of a challenge, requiring careful care, feeding, and a fair measure of patience. As a busy kid, I had little patience (although more than the average high school guy- after all, I was a fish geek!), so I was delighted to learn that these fishes were thought to fare better in "permanent" and "natural" setups (fish geek code for "set and forget", IMHO).

So of course, I thought that this species was a perfect fish for my busy lifestyle at the time!

I set up 2 pairs and a few extra females in a 2.5 gallon tank, planted with Water Sprite, Hygrophila, and Rotala. Given moderate light from a small fixture, and a sponge filter providing filtration/circulation, this tank looked good and ran just fine with little intervention on my part. In fact, I'm embarrassed to admit that I would sometimes go a week or more without some much as looking at the tank long enough to toss some food in there.

Yeah.

One day (I think it was during  Spring Break), I took the time to really stare into the tank, to see what was going on...Sure enough, upon close examination, I saw several tiny fry flitting in and among the Rotala! I was elated! Rather than panic and start hatching brine shrimp, I made the very mature and level-headed decision to simply...leave them alone, as I had been doing for months. I resisted the temptation to net them out, power feed them, and otherwise intervene. I reasoned that I could hardly do better than what they were apparently being provided by nature, as they have done successfully for eons.

I ultimately ended up with a pretty stable population of around 12-15 individuals, in a tank I "maintained" for around 3-4 years. Ironically, the difficulties started when I had the time to really get into "taking care" of the fishes, and took more initiative and control of the breeding.

I ultimately slowly lost the entire colony. Sad.

But a valuable lesson. Sometimes, what we would classify as "benign neglect" is actually the best thing we could do..the closest imitation to nature that we can offer fishes in captive environments! 

Other times, it's a fusion of both "hands on" and "hands off" approaches.

Now, I'm not suggesting that you abandon all care of your fishes, but I am suggesting that you reconsider the way that you might care for some of the more demanding varieties (from a breeding aspect, anyways). Sometimes it's best to simply "monitor" and not intervene so much. Hard to do for us 'hands on" fish geeks- particularly for a hardcore hobbyist like myself- but it often times works far better than our efforts to take control of the situation, IMHO.

I was reminded this again a few years back, when I went into the office of my business partner at Unique Corals, to feed his fishes while he was out of town for the month. He and I both had freshwater tanks at UC, because they represented a nice change from the 16,000 gallons of saltwater we had in our facility...And, they were a bit more forgiving with our healthy travel schedules. I had a plant-less "hardscape", and my partner opted for a planted tank, CO2 and all. 

Of course, with the craziness of schedules and running businesses, sometimes we as hobbyists can't maintain our tanks as "steadfastly" as we'd like. This was certainly the case with my partner's tank.

I remembered fondly one day, when I popped my head in his office, after we were BOTH out of town and no one really took care of the tank, that the tank was just packed with plants...And the fishes were healthy, active, and solid. His Angelfish had paired off, and at least one young pair had a small clutch of eggs!

It was just another in a long series of reminders over my lifetime in the hobby that there is more than one way to keep an aquarium. And it shouldn't been that surprising.

Nature knows how to do this stuff!

Now, I'm not suggesting to abandon husbandry and care protocols in favor of neglect, just to see what happens. What I AM suggesting is that sometimes, closed systems can regulate themselves a bit with minimal intervention on our part.

Plants and animals whose needs are bing met will thrive and come to dominate the closed ecosystem, for better or worse, just like in nature. In fact, one could probably make the argument that- at least on a superficial level- the "benignly neglected" aquarium may be the closest imitation of nature that we can present!

Let Nature do her thing?

Something to think about...

Stay open-minded. Stay focused. Stay curious. Stay busy!

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Nature calls the shots.

It's been 6 months since we set up our latest blackwater aquarium, and it's kind of fun to look back on the way this system has evolved. Like any tank, because of the changes we've made and the ones nature created, this one has changed significantly in its first 6 months of existence. 

Part of the reason why we celebrate the “evolution” of blackwater, botanical-style aquariums here at Tannin Aquatics is because the very act of working with one of these tanks IS an evolution.

A process.

A celebration of sensory delights.

As we've discussed before, an aquarium has a “cadence” of its own, which we can set up- but we must let nature dictate the timing and sequencing. It starts with an empty tank. Then, the lush fragrance exuded by crisp botanicals during preparation. The excitement of the initial “placement" of the botanicals within the tank. The gradual “tinting” of the aquarium water. The softening of the botanicals. The gradual development of biofilms and algae “patinas.” Perhaps, even a bit of cloudiness from time to time because of microbial growth.

Ultimately, there's the decomposition.

All part of a process which can’t be “hacked” or rushed. We can change some of the physical aspects of our tanks (equipment, hardscape, etc.), but Mother Nature is in control.

She "calls the shots" here.

And I think that's perhaps the most important lesson that we can learn from our aquariums. As aquarists, we can do a lot- we can change the equipment, correct initial mistakes or shortcomings the system might have had from the beginning.

We set the stage, so to speak.

However, in the end..it's Nature which does most of the real "heavy lifting" here. Nature rewards us for our good decisions, scolds us for our bad ones, and provides "cues" on what future decisions we need to make. And nature does it all indifferently...without judgement. It reacts positively or negatively to our attempts to control it. 

Which is why the reality of a blackwater/botanical-style (BWBS) aquarium is that it's perhaps one of the best ways to bring nature into our home. To blur the lines between nature and aquarium. Sure, planted aquariums give us a similar challenge...but the BWBS aquarium challenges us in different ways. It tasks us to accept Nature in all of its beauty. And yeah, it makes us accept that there IS beauty in things like decomposition, biofilm, and algal growth. Things which we as aquarists might have been "indoctrinated" to loathe over the years..

Yet, when viewed as a "whole", the macro view of BWBS aquarium is that it challenges us to look at the big picture- to not get too caught up in any one aspect of managing our aquarium...and to appreciate all of the process by which nature does its work. And to make a "mental shift" to understand that everything we see in the aquarium is exactly what Nature intends. A definite homage to Amano's idea of wabi-wabi, which treasures some of the transience and "process" which occurs in nature, without our intervention.

One need only study the wild aquatic systems of the world to realize that it's not all "crystal clear and sterile" out there- and that our aquariums in all of their tinted, murky glory will reflect this. Nature "calls the shots" here.

And that it's totally okay.

We dream in water. 

Stay inspired. Stay open-minded. Stay bold...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Tearing down to build up? Or...just another way to evolve?

Maybe it's a sign of Spring...that time when we review plans, practices, ideas, and things that we have been doing for a while, to sort of re-evaluate to see if we are on the right path. Sometimes, in order to get to where we want to be, we have to take rather dramatic steps- even ones which seem like a short-term setback. I personally do these evaluation all the time- with my tanks, my aquarium ideas, and with my business.

It makes a lot of sense!

Case in point:

I was talking with a customer the other day who was just…well- not enjoying the hobby anymore. Nothing was fun; problems with her once-stable aquarium were mounting, fishes were dying for no readily apparent reason…It was becoming more of a pain than a pleasure. 

She was wondering what to do from here. And it’s funny, because I have been in a similar mind space during the course of my several decades in the hobby, and it got me thinking about what I did when stuff like that got to be just too much.

What’s the strategy? 

When is it time to "go nuclear"- to tear down your tank and start over?

If you’ve been in the hobby long enough, chances are, you’ll eventually reach that day where you look at your aquarium and think, “I just don’t think it’s working for me anymore…” Your system has some problems, "issues", or even major design flaws that are simply overriding any enjoyment that you are deriving from the tank. Maybe you realize that it's not playing to your strengths or core interests as a hobbyist. You contemplate a major overhaul, or tearing the tank down altogether…You’ve tried to work with it, but you can’t anymore…You’re ready to consider the “nuclear option.”

What are the "signs" that it’s time to do a major overhaul, or break the tank down and start over?

Algae is growing faster than your plants. Yup, we’ve all been there. Despite our best efforts, we simply cannot overcome an algae issue. Even though almost every algae issue is solvable, based often on some nutrient-export-related deficiency, there is a often a point when the recovery procedures become just too much, and you’re better off breaking down the system, giving it a thorough cleaning, and rebuilding aspects of the system with greater attention to nutrient export mechanisms (like a larger mechanical/biological filter, more efficient flow, media, etc.).

Continued "anomalous" livestock deaths. Okay, this is a tough one, but maybe you’re noticing a complete decline in your ability to keep animals alive. You introduce new plants or fish, and they flat out die shortly afterwards. Now, I realize that, in many instances, frequent deaths of newly introduced livestock can be a result of everything from incompetence to aggression, to a resident disease or other killer, and may not be the result of the system itself. However, if after a top-to-bottom review of everything from source water to acclimation procedures to photoperiod, you’re still at a loss to find out why, it simply may be time to re-assess your setup itself…radical, but possibly the best alternative. A “re-boot” can work well in this instance.

Dissatisfaction with your overall design. Who doesn’t buy a car and have remorse, perform a home remodel and wish that they added more closet space, or order the pasta when they should have ordered the fish? It’s human nature. If your just miserable with your aquarium system, and it’s not living up to your expectations, of course you should rework it. Take into account the little things that annoy you about your present system: It’s too big, too small, has difficult access or maintenance issues, is hard to take care of when you travel, etc. However, if “retrofitting” is not going to get you the desired result, a complete rehab is a viable option. (Of course, provision should always be made for the  resident animals during the process- that’s a given.)

Your aquascaping is not doing it for you. I take this one very personally, as I am an aquascaping fanatic and lover of a good design. If you’re still mired in the 1970’s and have a big old chunk of petrified wood/plastic plant combo that is both functionally and aesthetically obsolete, it’s time to “tear down the walls” and rebuild a more open, creative and functionally appropriate aquascape. Often, you can simply use the rock that you already have. this can be a very pleasant weekend task! You may find that you simply need to remove some rock or plants to create more “negative space”, better circulation, or a totally different look. Maybe you’re trying to create a biotope, replicating a specific section of a stream, lake, etc. Maybe you are interested in creating a more minimalist approach..The possibilities are endless, and since you already have the “infrastructure” (ie; pumps, lights, etc.) in place, why not just rework what you already have?

You're nursing outdated, damaged, or otherwise inappropriate equipment. If that canister filter from the 1990’s is turning into a liability for you (of course it is!), and that small crack in the bottom of the tank is starting to weep mineral stalactites, or the drywall behind the tank is starting to get soft and mildewy, it may be time to start fresh. In fact, this is a good time to re-assess your hobby goals, and start accumulating more appropriate, more modern equipment. Sure, this is the most expensive option- total replacement, but it’s also potentially the most beneficial. Why? Well, first of all, you can create a system with wonderful technology that meets all of your new hobby news and tastes. Second, it gives you an added measure of safety, replacing potentially dangerous equipment that has fallen into disrepair, and finally, it enables you to take a deep breath, with a completely new, re-engaging approach to your hobby. Its never a bad thing to start over if the reasoning is right!

Your system is becoming an economic drain or other social liability. Look, I love aquariums more than almost anything, but sometimes we bite off more than we can chew. Your financial situation can change, you may have a growing family or career commitment that requires more time and money, you have a health issue, or you might simply need a smaller, more manageable tank in order to stay in the hobby long-term. These are never bad reasons to make changes. Downsizing to a system that better fits your life enables you to enjoy a hobby- not be a tank slave to a system that is taxing you financially, physically, and socially. Your hobby should be a pleasant diversion, not a source of tension between you and your family. Needs and interests change over time. If you're a REAL hobbyist- and I suspect that you are- you will return, better and more engaged than ever. Sometimes, taking a “sabbatical” from the hobby is not a bad thing, either. When you return, it will be for all of the right reasons, and free from the tensions caused by not having the time, money, or physical resources to fully enjoy your hobby.

 In the end, a hobby is meant to be enjoyable, and the aquarium hobby is also a lifestyle- a way of looking at the world, and an educational resource for your family. When it becomes not-so-fun anymore, that’s when you need to step back, re-assess, and regroup. Just like in life, it’s never a bad thing to make the occasional change. As long as you are not doing it for the wrong reasons (you HAVE to have the very latest gear all the time to impress everyone, your ego tells you that you need a huge tank to be cooler than anyone else’s in your aquarium club, or you feel that you're not a “real” aquarist unless you constantly re-work your system), it’s never bad to evolve, experiment, change.

In fact, tweaking your system is not only a pleasant part of the hobby, it’s what the hobby is all about- experimenting, playing, and constantly finding new ways to enjoy this engaging, obsessive game we call aquarium keeping.

Until next time…

Stay true to yourself. Stay engaged. Stay enthusiastic. Stay curious. Stay patient...

And Stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

A couple of questions...a bunch of areas to explore!

As you are probably acutely aware by now, we receive a lot of questions, via email, PM, etc. about our vision of blackwater/botanical-style aquariums! It's actually one of the best parts of running a business like this- really getting "down and dirty" into the real questions that fellow hobbyists have about this stuff! 

Periodically, we receive some email which have questions from which a large number of our community members could benefit from seeing answered. Today, we'll feature one such email query (name omitted for privacy, of course), edited a bit for ease of reading!

It was really a great cross-section of questions and concerns that we've all had from time to time, so here we go!

From my reading I see that leaf litter decomposes and breaks down in a matter of weeks, and needs to be replaced. No problem, but what does the decomposition do to your tank & water parameters?   Does it just get filtered out by the things you mentioned (Seachem Renew, etc) ?

That is correct! Leaves and other botanicals will break down over weeks or months (depending upon a variety of factors, such as water chemistry, the degree to which they were prepared prior to being placed in the aquarium, and if you have fishes which graze on or nibble directly on them! 

From a chemical standpoint, as aquarists, we are wise to consider what exactly all of the decomposition does to water quality. Here's where it gets kind of interesting, IMHO. Now, initially, especially in a new tank with immature/incomplete nutrient export capabilities, or in a long-established, stable aquarium, adding a large influx of botanicals can cause some short-term changes to the environment. Immediate possibilities in extreme cases could be a reduction or depletion of dissolved oxygen caused by bacteria growth. This is a rather "extreme" example, though- and usually happens when you dump a lot of material in all at once.

Typically, you'll add materials gradually, to allow the bacterial and fungal populations of the aquarium to grow and adjust to the influx. And curiously- over time, it seems that most of us see no significant increase in nitrate, phosphate, etc. as a result of this material being present in the water. It seems that the botanical materials might serve a dual purpose of fueling bacterial growth and providing -maybe?- some form of biological filtration...you know, creating a substrate for them to grow on...kind of like live rock in a reef aquarium...a sort of "on board" bio filtration media and carbon source- all in one? Just a theory I have had bouncing around in my head, but the results we are seeing in our tanks worldwide are making me think about it more seriously all the time! 

I have read that when you deal with very soft water the ph can swing or drop because of no buffer in water. Do the tannins or wood help this or is it smart to have a couple rocks or something that adds a little KH to keep the ph and softness stable??  Or am I overthinking this. I need to take current readings of my tap water and see what starting point is.  

The idea of pH impact/swings as a result of botanical materials present in the water with minimal carbonate hardness is a distinct possibility. However, one of the things I've personally found is that the impact on pH created by botanicals, in may cases, is surprisingly limited. Sure, the pH can and often does drop significantly, depending upon both the starting pH/hardness of the tank water, and the amount and type of materials incorporated into the display. For example, many leaves or materials like catappa bark will have far greater impact on the pH than more "durable" materials, like "Jungle Pods", etc.

The wood will impart tannins into the water (which will visually "tint" the water, as we've seen many times), the amount of which is largely dependent upon the wood itself. We have no real definitive stuff to draw upon, but anecdotally (damn, we have to use that a lot, huh?), one could see visually the amount of "tint" imparted varies from wood type to wood type a little bit. 

As far as "swings" in pH- I've not personally experienced this phenomenon, which is not to say that it isn't something that happens. I have seen trends up or down over time, and of course, the usual day/night pH fluctuations which have nothing to do with botanicals, but I haven't seen wild environmental fluctuations in botanical style, blackwater aquariums. Usually, once you have completed the additions of botanical materials to your aquarium, you'll see a slight trend downward in conditions which  are amicable to this (i.e.; low to negligible carbonate hardness).

However, one of the things we've noted is that many aquarists are actually surprised by how little the pH is impacted by botanicals! Even with pure RO/DI water, like I use, and lots of wood and botanicals, I've found that the pH in my tanks tends to find a range (within like .1 or .2, BTW) and stays there. In my instance, it's about 6.5-6.6. In fact, It's tough for me to get it much lower. I think, as you've alluded to, that the use of substrate materials, such as sand and rocks, may provide significant enough "buffering capacity" to keep the ph confined to a narrow range. Now, many of us have started experimenting with purely botanical substrates, creating a different and potentially more "aggressive" pH influence capacity...something we can come back to in the future!

Your last sentence hit the nail on the head: We need to test our source water, and our aquarium water on a regular, continuous basis, particularly for pH, hardness, nitrate, and phosphate. It's a foundational skill, and really, a responsibility of all who want to play in this arena. Studying these parameters regularly will give us a good snapshot of where our tanks are now, and where they were...and possibly, when enough data is accumulated- an idea of where they're headed! Trends are important, and there is simply no substitute for understanding the water chemistry in our aquariums.

And the other important thing is that there is no "recipe" by which we can dial in exactly the pH/hardness and/or other parameters we want. It requires observation, testing, and on occasion, intervention to get what we want.

Yes, principles of chemistry apply to everything, but every tank has a myriad of random factors which can impact the pH and other parameters. We can speak in generalizations when discussing how to manipulate or impact water parameters, but we really can't do the same about how much we need to do to achieve specific results. The old adage of "test, then tweak" is really the way forward here!

There is so much to learn, so much to practice, and much to share. Many of the principles of aquarium environmental manipulation and long-term management have not changed over the century or so of the modern aquarium hobby's existence. What has changed is our ability to study them and utilize different techniques and materials to accomplish things. 

In the end, it's about learning, experimenting, interpreting, and sharing.

We've all got a lot of work to do, huh?

Stay excited. Stay observant. Stay informed. Stay curious...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

The continuing coolness of..cones!

We've been working on all sorts of ideas in our cool little botanical/blackwater aquarium niche, and it's neat to see so many techniques and practices yielding new and exciting results! Many hobbyists are discovering the manifold joys of "tinted" tanks, and some of the expression and work we've seen is amazing! What's really cool is that there many ways to get it. too! 

One of the easiest and most efficient ways to get the tint into our tanks is to use various cones steeped into our water.

It's by no means a new practice, and hobbyists have been using cones for years for just this purpose, incorporating cones from various deciduous hardwood trees, such as Alder (Alinus), Birch (Betula sp.) and more recently, Indian Casaurina trees to condition water for various species of fishes. These little cones, each which appears morphologically just a bit different, also seem to have slightly different effect upon the aquarium water in which they are steeped.

Now, some hobbyists and vendors have attributed seemingly "magical" powers to cones, such as the ability to cure fungal infections, reduce incidence of egg fungus in fishes, etc. You hear this a lot in shrimp forums and other specialty discussion groups, but it's seldom backed up with any hard scientific evidence. In fact, I've personally never seen any hard data to support this attribute, nor have I seen anyone recommend a "dosage" (either number of cones per gallon or mg/l of "cone solution") that can reliably and consistently achieve the affects enthusiastically attributed to these cones, so for now, I'll recommend them for what I feel are their proven "applications"- imparting visible tannins to aquarium water and providing some aesthetics, as well as supplemental feeding for some animals.

Let's take a brief look at the most commonly encountered cone types used in the aquatic hobby.

The most "traditional" standby, the "Queen of The Cones", if you will- Alder, is pretty potent from a tannin-producing standpoint, imparting a nice tint to the water at relatively modest "doses" (like 6 cones for every 10 gallons of aquarium capacity, in our experience). Of course, the amount of color they produce and tannins they impart is variable, subject to a wide range of factors, such as the characteristics of the tank water, etc., and has nothing at all to do with how much they can influence the pH and water chemistry of our tanks, so you'll have to experiment and use our recommendation as a good "starting point" for working with them. Alder seem to be the least "durable" of the cones we work with, breaking down physically after just a few short weeks. In addition to their "tinting" capabilities, they are often grazed on for biofilm, and fed upon directly be many Neocaridina and other ornamental shrimp.

Birch cones are an excellent, more durable substitute or supplement for Alder cones, as they seem to last a bit longer when submerged, and impart a similar amount of tint to the water when used at a "dose" of around 6-8 cones per 10 gallons of aquarium capacity as your "starting off" point. Being slightly more "durable" than Alder cones, they are really cool to use as "media" in a fluidized reactor to more thoroughly mix with the water and impart their tannins to it; they tend not to break apart as easily as Alder when used in this capacity. Like their counterparts, Birch cones are also "fodder" for many species of ornamental shrimp, which feed on the biofilms they might attract, as well as directly upon the cones themselves as they break down.

Casaurina cones are relatively new to the scene, and have a decidedly different "look" to them. Not that looks are important with cones, but they are easily distinguished from the Alder and Birch cones, looking almost like miniature pineapples! They pack a very respectable tannin-production capacity as well, and seem to last longest of all, both in terms of structural "integrity" and ability to continuously release tannins into the water. Their highly "faceted" morphology gives them a lot of surface area, which is good for both releasing tannins and for providing a feeding "substrate" for shrimp and perhaps some xylophorous fishes (We've seen Loricariids of various species feeding directly on Casuarina and other cones on many occasions), recruiting biofilms in lower flow environments, and working well in reactors and such.

Carambola Lixo is our fancy Portuguese name  (referring to their "Starfruit-like appearance!) for what is actually a small fruit, in botany terms, from the Terminalia paniculata tree. We consider it a cone for our purposes and uses, and it can be used much the same way as the "traditional" varieties. Oh, and for those of you botany geeks, this tree is a relative of Terminalia catappa- the much-loved Indian Almond tree!  And these fruits (man, I want to call them "cones") are known to contain significant amounts of tannins, often used for dye in their native Southwest India range. They're light, long-lasting, and shrimp love 'em, too. Oh, and they sink almost immediately after submersion, which is something you wouldn't expect from them given their seemingly delicate appearance!

No doubt, there may be other cones that we encounter in the future which can suit our needs, and we will be sure to update you on their specific prep techniques and applications as we gain more experience with them! In general, the preparation of most aquarium-friendly cones is similar, however.

Preparation of cones for aquarium use is an important step, as they can accumulate a lot of foreign material (mainly small particles of dirt and dust) which should be removed before submersion. This is easily accomplished by a quick rinse in warm water. Being ever cautious, we also recommend that you "steep" them a bit (like 20 minutes or so) before use in some hot water. This will soften them up a bit, making the release of the bound-up tannins contained within their structures a bit more rapid. Some may say the steep is unnecessary, but being the conservative types, we "do the steep." Oh, and they smell amazing when they're wetted for the first time- you wouldn't want to miss that!

Utilizing cones in your aquarium is pretty straightforward. There are essentially three ways that you'd want to employ them. First, you can simply toss them into your tank after preparation.This is easiest and most common approach, although many aquascapers may not like the aesthetics. I personally think they look "out of place", myself...but that's coming from a guy who tosses leaves, palm fronds, and seed pods in his tanks, so "consider the source", as they say... Obviously, if you're a breeder or shrimp keeper/breeder, the aesthetics may be a secondary concern, so it's your call here. And of course, if they're being used as a Pleco or shrimp "chew toy", this is the most logical approach!

Over time, as they break down, the cones will recruit some biofilms on their surfaces. Of course, if you keep lots of shrimp or grazing fishes, the cones probably won't last long enough for this to happen! Shrimp, especially, seem "magnetically" attracted to them, and will travel all the way across "barren" substrate to get to them! It's funny to watch. 

The other way to employ cones is to use them "passively" as "media" either in your canister filter or other part of your aquarium where the water will flow through them easily in a mesh media bag. This gets pretty good water "flow through" over the cones, taking great advantage of their tannin-releasing capacity. The important thing to remember when using cones in a "passive" manner is to make sure that there is enough "void space" in the media bag to allow water to pass through and hit as much surface area as possible, to take advantage of the tannins locked up in their tissues.

Finally, you can place them in a reactor, as outlined above, which gives superior utilization of their surface area and ability to release tannins into the water column. There are a number of different inexpensive in-line reactors on the market that you might want to investigate for this application. Again, the caveat here is to allow enough "void space" within the reaction chamber to give the water a chance to pass through as much of the surface of the cones as possible. And of course, having that extra space in the chamber allows the "media" (cones) to tumble, creating an optimal water-to-media "exposure ratio."

As 'tint vehicles", cones are pretty cool little "packages", providing a fair amount of "bang for the buck", ease of use, and effectiveness. The amount of tint they impart to the water may not be quite as significant as say, Catappa leaves; however, they contain a nice "dose" of tannins, making them a viable alternative once you figure out the amount you need to do the job in your particular application. Sure, they might not create dramatic ph-reducing effects for you, so experimentation is always recommended.

In our experience, and the experience of many other hobbyists over the years, depending upon the volume of your tank and the starting ph/GH of your water, it is definitely possible to impact these parameters by using cones as a "media", making them practical, affordable, natural alternatives to chemicals and such for those willing to do their "homework."

So, there you have a  very quick "refresher" on using cones in your aquarium. With their small size, versatility, and relative "longevity" when submerged, cones are a great alternative to leaves when you want the  "tint" but you don't want these materials within the aquarium itself. As usual, these "practices" are constantly evolving, and the stuff related here is certainly not the last word on the subject! If you have other thoughts or techniques on employing the various cones for aquatic use, we'd love to hear from you!

Stay curious. Stay creative. Stay engaged. Stay "tinted!"

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

"...They just started...spawning!"

It happened yet again...a breathless phone call from a customer who recently switched over to a botanical-style, blackwater aquarium, only to have her little Boraras, which she'd had for over a year, suddenly start spawning!

Cool!

Now sure, it could just have been that they finally were of spawning age, or that the temperature in her tank changed one night, or...and number of a dozen possible factors. However, I hear these stories from hobbyists fairy often.

Actually, all the time.

We're seeing more and more in botanical-stye, blackwater aquariums are reports of "spontaneous" spawnings of all sorts of different fishes associated with these types of conditions.

Often, it's fishes that the aquarist had for a while, perhaps with little effort put into spawning them, and then it just sort of "happened." For others, it is perhaps expected- maybe the ultimate goal as it relates to said species...but was just taking a long time!

The "common denominator" in all of the reports we receive are that the fishes are displaying better color, vigor, and overall health after being recently exposed to the more "physiologically appropriate" conditions of a blackwater aquarium. Now, this is by no means us stating that blackwater tanks are somehow magical, and possess the ability to make every fish magically thrive and spawn.

Rather, it's more of an affirmation that fishes from specialized environments- even those which might be several generations captive-bred, can always benefit from being "re-patriated" to the conditions under which they have evolved for eons.

I know that there are those who will adamantly state that this is not necessary or true, but I just have this really hard time accepting the argument that fishes from say, soft, acidic blackwater are somehow "better off" in hard, alkaline "tap water" conniptions...after only a few generations in captivity. Have we somehow "changed" the physiology or physiological needs of the fish, which evolved over millions of years, in a few decades?

I'm not buying that argument! 

"Acclimated" to the water parameters that work for US? Sure...However, "changed" their physiological requirements for certain conditions?

Nah. Not buying that. 

Now, I could be totally wrong, but I'm not listening anyways...lol (I'm not irrationally stubborn or anything...LOL)

Look, this L.A. boy, who's lived all of his life in warm temps CAN adapt to living in frigid Antartica, if I'm given the proper clothes, housing, etc. I could even start a family there. Yet, does this mean that we've somehow evolved to thrive in these conditions?

Seriously, I think there is a lot to be said for the potential benefits of humic substances for fishes- and indeed, much research has been done in this area already by science. Still, much is yet to be fully understood, but suffice it to say, there are a variety of health benefits ascribed to humic substances found in blackwater habitats, and the "superficial", yet numerous observations we've made thus far seem to confirm this!

What advantages do they give us when we're trying to breed fishes from these habitats?

We're still learning this stuff, aren't we?

Now, I am equally fascinated by the possible benefits of these conditions for fry. In other words, not only the chemical conditions (i.e; pH, levels of tannins/humic substances, etc.), but the possibility that the biofilms which botanicals and leaves "recruit" will serve as an excellent natural source of food- supplemental or otherwise- for many fish fry. Biofilms and the organisms which are found with them are consumed by a number of species as adults, so it goes without saying that, if they're available to fry, they might also be a possible source of nutrition.

Which leads me to wonder...

Could a botanically-"stocked" aquarium, complete with perhaps a deep leaf litter bed and/or lots of botanicals, "doing their thing", serve as a sort of "nursery" for fry of fishes which are accustomed to blackwater conditions?

I think so!

So, perhaps a version of the fry-rearing tank that's a bit more than the typical bare-bottomed, hyper-maintained nursery tanks we tend to use so often- might be a good thing to experiment with? I mean, sure, for commercial breeding, it probably would be a challenge...but for the hobbyist working with just a few species...could this be a great way to provide some supplemental/primary feeding? A sort of "botanical refugium" for fry? 

I think there is precedent.

I mean, what hobbyist hasn't had one of those planted "jungle" tanks over the years, where you'd just sort of "stumble" on fry from time to time in the "canopy" of plants? I mean, same idea, right? Natural foods...and protection?

I think that we might see some of this as more and more hobbyists experiment with botanical-style brackish tanks, too! A lot of potential discoveries- even breakthroughs- are possible! 

None of this stuff is completely mind-blowingly revolutionary. But it is evolutionary...a sort of possible progression in thinking. It's not really "rocket science" ("Filll tank with water. Add leaves and let them decompose. Add fish fry.") Much research needs to be done. 

Who's up for it?

Because I think that there is a lot to it when we hear those reports that, "...They just started...spawning!"

Stay excited. Stay engaged. Stay creative. Stay thoughtful. Stay progressive...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellaman

Tannin Aquatics 

Finding your negative space...

It had to happen eventually...a customer asked me about my thoughts on aquascaping and layout in botanical-style aquariums. Specifically, on the idea of "negative space" in our 'scapes.

And of course, I have an opinion on the subject...possibly not based on talent or anything- but an opinion, nonetheless!

It makes sense that e get questions about this, of course.

I suppose it seems like every other aquarium-related post/blog/pic you see is about some aspect of aquascaping. And that makes sense, because so many of us want to set the scene with our little aquatic microcosms. It's sort of a fundamental part of fish keeping...and it's been elevated to a real art form now! And our quest to replicate the functional and aesthetic attributes of some of the ecological niches we love so much means we look at this stuff from a different perspective.

Apart from me wanting to vomit every time I see an article or post describing "rules" of how to place your wood, rock, or plants in a specific position or whatever, most of this information is fantastic and very useful (although I think that the idea of "rules" in aquascaping, other than those about proportion and space, are not really "healthy..."). It seems to me that so much attention seems to be placed on WHAT to place WHERE in your tank, that little mention seems to be made of NOT putting stuff in every nook and cranny, or how to look beyond the immediate concept of design.

Seems like most aquascapers do know intuitively about the benefits of leaving some open area- either intentionally or unintentionally, as the case may be- in their aquariums.

Yeah, we get that.

The idea of "negative space" is really important, and can make the difference between a tank that looks like a pile of stuff, or a representation of an underwater world on a small scale.

Negative space.

What exactly is “negative space”? Simply put, it’s the part of your aquascape that doesn’t have rock in it! In other words, open sand areas, devoid of plants, rock or wood. 

Negative space  helps “break up” long spans of rock work or wood, adding visual interest. Creating a focal point in an aquascape is much easier when there is an open area to break up the visual “monotony”. Now, that being said, I feel that many aquascapes don't have a need for large amounts of planned "negative space..." 

Rather, by virtue of the morphology of the materials used, they "have it" already. And as most of us know, many of our "scapes" with botanicals feature large aggregations of materials by virtue of the habitats they represent. Yet, you still have plenty of opportunity to embrace negative space.

On a practical level, negative space helps break up territories for fishes, as in the example of a tank aquascaped with multiple rock  formations. Each formation can be a territory for fishes like Apistos, for example. If you are inclined to mix aggressive territorial species, it gives them a fighting chance if they are isolated on their own individual area to "set up shop", so to speak.

I have been, and always will be- a fan of multiple small aggregations of aquascaping materials, scattered throughout the tank when keeping territorial fishes. It looks interesting and is a very maintenance-friendly configuration. The breaking up of “territory” is not just useful for keeping aggressive specimens apart and providing swimming area, it can function as a sort of “aesthetic boundary”, allowing you to try different techniques, colors, or morphologies on different wood structures or botanical materials.

 

With proper utilization of negative space, you also get the opportunity to move a lot of water! The “gyre flow” that you often hear expounded upon these days works exceedingly well in this type of aquascaping configuration. A deep (ie; deep front-to-back) tank really comes alive with negative space, and even a small aquarium can look bigger when every square centimeter is not crammed with rock, wood, and botanicals.

Creating channels and open areas makes maintenance very easy. Since you won’t have huge walls of rock or wood to contend with, access to many areas of your tank should be quite simple. You can still make an aquarium look "complete" while still leaving valuable negative space.

Being able to get a siphon hose into the aquarium without knocking into wood and such is a beautiful thing... 

Now, granted, a lot of the habitats we tend to replicate in our aquariums are, at least on the surface, a hopeless jumble of wood, botanical materials, leaves, etc., as do our aquariums. That being said, the reality is that within these little niches, there is a surprisingly large amount of "negative" space.

You just need to look closely sometimes.

In the end, it’s all about what moves you, but if you want to try something just a bit different, leave some open space in your rockwork/woodwork, and see what it can do for your aquascape. I think that you-and your fishes- will enjoy the open space.

By carefully utilizing negative space in your aquascape, you will also create forced perspective, which makes the aquarium seem much larger and/or deeper than it really is.  In this era of smaller “nano” aquariums, it’s a valuable mindset that can make the difference between mundane and spectacular, so don’t be afraid to think negative in your aquascaping process.

Find your own "negative space."

Stay observant. Stay inspired. Stay creative. Stay disciplined. Stay unbridled by rules...

And Stay Wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Blue Eyes and Bumblebees...a brackish stocking evolution.

Yes, I admit a tiny bit of obsession over my latest botanical-style brackish water aquarium...You know, the one I've been promising to deliver for the better part of the past year...Yeah, that one!

I mean, this thing sat dry for so long that the wood probably cured by mummification! 

I must admit that the "self-inflicted" delays on the launch of this tank have made its ultimate transition from dry diorama to aquatic microcosm among the more satisfying tank adventures I can recall in recent years! Just getting it wet was sort of emotional!

And of course, with the startup of the aquarium came a lot of questions from other hobbyists- the usual litany of stuff like what materials i used, how I filter it, etc...and of course, the most important of all to a fish geek, "What are you gonna put in it?"

And funny, that turns out to be one of the best questions of all. And among the most difficult for me to answer! Oh, I had a vision for a killer brackish tank...I knew some of the fishes that I wanted- Halfbeaks, a few Scats, Archerfish...a lot of "cliche" stuff, but in what I knew would be a very realistic and functional habitat for them...And of course- reality set in when I forced myself to accept the fact that at 40 gallons, the aquarium would place significant limitations on what I could keep there!

Well, there were two fishes on my target list that I knew would fit into just about any size...The "Neon Blue Eye", Pseudomugil cyanodorsalis, and the adorable "Bumblebee Goby", Brachygobius doriae! Right out of the gate, I knew that combining these two faves would not only create a perfect display in this tank- it would immediately and forever disqualify me from entering into one of those biotope aquarium contests, as these fishes are found thousands of miles from each other and would simply never encounter each other in nature.

Too bad, but that's life.

And knowing that I have a cube-shaped 40 gallon tank really cemented home these guys as keepers. They are small, interesting, occupy different water strata, and are both amazing fish to keep in groups. It was one of those "compromises" which really wasn't a compromise! In fact, I think I could hardly have come up with a better combination, given the configuration and limitations of this aquarium.

One of the things a lot of people ask me is, "Are you only keeping those two species in there?" And the answer is...most likely, with the exception of one or two other possible fishes; perhaps another brackish water goby species and maybe, MAYBE the Glassfish, Chanda sp. Part of the decision will be based upon availability of the right specimens, the status of my aquarium at the time- and if I feel that they are going to be "necessary."

You know, the usual stuff.

And it just so happens that these fishes really are working well together in this aquarium!

The Blue Eyes tend to stay in the upper/top part of the water column, with and endless activity level that is completely engaging. And the neat thing is that they will swim at all levels of the tank at any given moment, but they seem to be preferentially a surface dweller. And their subtle, metallic coloration and diminutive size makes them look just fantastic in this sized aquarium.

P. cyanodorsalis is a fascinating fish for a brackish water aquarium, not only because it's a Rainbowfish (which automatically makes it cool), but because it is a "poster child" for the "euryhaline" adaptability. It can live in freshwater, brackish, and full-strength marine habitats/water conditions, and can move between the two quite quickly and dramatically. Many wild populations are subject to rapid tidal influxes and changes, often going from near-pure freshwater to even higher than typical marine (1.025) specific gravities (I recall reading about some specimens being collected from specific gravities as high as 1.030!). That's salty!

Another cool thing about this fish is that it is often found in large aggregations associated with...wait for it...mangroves!

Yup, this little fish is perfect for the habitat which I am trying to replicate, a thicket of mangrove prop roots with lots of small fishes living among them. And since these are small fishes, topping of at around 1.5"/40mm, and live in aggregations, keeping a colony of these guys in a replication of their environment, you'll get to enjoy their interesting habits and reproductive behaviors. And the small size gives your tank a good sense of "scale", IMHO!

To me, there is something extremely interesting about small fishes in a medium to large-sized aquarium, and the other resident in our brackish aquarium, the Bumblebee Goby, is perfect for this type of display!

The 'Bees come from Malaysia and Indonesia, and although long regarded as a "prototype" brackish water fish, are found in all sorts of habitats- including soft, acidic  blackwater niches. Now, in my experience, it's pretty difficult for the typical consumer to know for certain if his/her specimens came from a brackish or soft, acidic environment, so obviously you should ask your supplier. 

Now, in my experience, if you're not sure about the exact water conditions under which your specimens were collected, and your intent is to acclimate them to your brackish water aquarium, you simply need to do it very slowly, over the course of weeks or even months, gradually increasing the specific gravity until you hit your desired target.

It's also long been known that these guys are surprisingly social fishes, excellent for maintenance in small (or medium-sized) groups in aquariums. Males will establish little "territories" and defend them from intruders...It's funny to see a 3/4" long fish chasing away a rival which strays into his self-proclaimed territory. And fear not, little harm ever seems to come from these encounters. 

I was really excited to include a good-sized group (20) of these small gobies in my brackish water display. Again, they are often associated with mangrove roots and the substrates associated with them. The beauty of a rather complex "matrix" of mangrove roots is that they create "territories" for these little guys, which will help diffuse any real "violence" as a result of defensive activities.

And of course, mangrove leaf litter, shells, and open substrate provide these fish with ample areas for foraging, resting, and social interactions. Population density is a big factor in determining the social order of your Bumblebee goby community, and personally, I wouldn't stock an aquarium with anything less than 6-8 specimens (assuming you have the space) to foster these cool social interactions and behaviors.

I've found that not only do these fish tend to stay in the interesting little areas you create in the tank- they will happily-and surprisingly- swim high into the water column to go after food, and simply "explore. Yeah, they're lousy swimmers, but they get the job done! 

So, my rationale of "small and cute" in a decently-sized tank is working out nicely, creating a display that has activity at a variety of levels, with some very interesting social interactions. You'd think that having just one or two species in an aquarium would be less than thrilling- but I think my little exercise is proving my thesis that if you select the RIGHT fishes for the aquarium you've created, it can be engaging and completely engrossing! 

As this aquarium evolves, I have learned to appreciate all of the little details of the environment, and how the resident fishes take advantage of them. It's very interesting and gratifying to design your system not only to replicate a natural environmental niche, but to create an aquascape that is both aesthetic and functional.

And its REALLY gratifying to see the fishes utilizing the aquascape in a natural and relaxed fashion...Something that we've played with in blackwater tanks for a while now, too- and something that is an important consideration when designing and setting up our systems.

So, there is a quick look at the stocking decisions and mindset of this brackish water aquarium. Hope it gives you some ideas!

Stay creative. Stay bold. Stay educated. Stay observant. Stay enthralled...

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics